Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Engine Surge - Started Rough And Got Bad Mpg For A Few Minutes
Jul 4, 2012
So I've had my car for just a little over 3 years and it has 28,000 miles on it. I always use Shell gas and fill it up before it goes under the quarter tank mark every time. I take very good care of it, and I've loved it. I constantly get upper 30 mpg in city driving and mid to upper 40s on highway.
Recently, I have had an issue where for the past week. One morning, it started rough and got bad mpg for a few mins until the engine "burped" (best way I can describe it). Then it was fine.
I felt this same surge or "burp" 2 times after that. It doesn't speed up or anything, the RPMs drop for a second and come back up as if something is pulling power away. I still get amazing gas milage (39.2mpg and I filled up 2 days ago). It just surges. I don't understand. I take very good care of it! I looked online and apparently its an issue that some others are having. What could it be?
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I just recently purchased a 2009 Corolla S Automatic. It still runs fine, but my concern is that when I start it that there is a squeaking or screeching like a belt is not tight enough or is too tight in the engine somewhere. That and there is a rattling that sounds like a bunch of marbles bouncing off of metal or as if there is something loose that is metal and just making vibrations from the way the engine is running. It drives fine, I have no other problems. I still have amazing gas mileage and everything else. What could be the issue and could I fix it from home?
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I've noticed that in the past week or so, whenever I'm stuck in traffic for a few minutes, the engine temp will slowly rise. it gets really bad if traffic is crawling; the temp has reached that 2nd highest line before the red area.
Whenever I get going again and hit the gas, the temp drops. What it is?
Car is currently at 86k miles. I don't believe the water pump has been replaced yet.
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My 2012 corolla has got about 7500 on it, and recently whenever I turn off the A/C, and keep it running on fan, it smells like old socks or really bad B.O. through the vents. Stays like this for about 5 minutes and goes away.
I heard of spraying Lysol through the air intakes, is it the one right below the windshield wipers? I know I should probably take out the cabin air filter and give that a thorough cleaning as well. Is there anything else I should do to eliminate the smell?It's getting to be pretty bad..
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I have a 2009 Corolla XRS 5 speed manual and it has started to idle low (sometimes), under 600 rpm and i know that's not normal... I bought it brand new and it has 75k miles
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It's a 2012 Corolla. I disconnected the battery and the 2 grounds where the fender mounts in the front. I did this to do some body repairs. When I reconnected everything, the car started, but immediately shut off. What is wrong? Is it a computer issue where it needs to relearn?
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So driving home today cel came on and vsc started flashing.
The codes I got were pretty out there
P0420 - cat converter (this one I did expect)
B0cc0 ???
C3a32 ???
U0a8e ???
B3e1f ???
I'm wondering if this was poor communications between the unichip and ecu? As for the vsc flashing, people complained about this during rain. It is currently raining. But not certain this is the issue.
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2009 Corolla XLE. 88K miles. My Corolla hadn't been driven for almost a week. This morning the car wouldn't start. Upon turning the ignition key, there was no clicking though. I tried to jump start it multiple times with no success. I thought maybe I am doing something wrong with the jump start.
Called Roadside assistance. The guy had me try to start it once and kind of figured out what was wrong. He started the car and pumped the gas at the same. The car started. He said the vehicle is fuel injected since it has been sitting at the same spot for almost a week. He suggested I should let it run for sometime. Its pretty cold here today (~35F real feel). Since this happened, I started the car multiple times throughout the day without pumping the gas and it did start without any issue.
I am pretty sure its not normal for this car as I never had to do this before. Is there something wrong with the car? Do I need to take the car to the mechanic and have it checked? What should I expect in terms of any mechanical repairs? I dont want to get stranded somewhere and would like to get it fixed.
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My mother's 09 Corolla XLE just started making this high pitched noise.. It makes this noise every other day, then it makes a loud pop sound and goes back to normal..
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I have a 2010 corolla s 1.8 liter. A couple months I started having a rough idle. It will drop below 600 for a second right at the point of stopping and then raise back up. While sitting at a light it will drop down and shake and then go back up. Had a couple people look at it including Toyota and they say it's normal. It did not do it a couple months ago so I know it's not normal.
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I just bought a 2013 Barcelona Red Corolla S in Manual transmission. Already, I've noticed how rough the transmission is when I shift. But it's only roughy when I first step on the clutch. But if I keep the clutch pedal down, all the gears shift smoothly, until I release the clutch and press it down again, then the first shift is really rough. Especially REVERSE, when I shift into reverse, it's so rough that it shakes the car. There's no grind, just very rough. It sounds like someone cocked a shotgun. Everything is smooth when driving tho, only happens at full stop.
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Driving home yesterday and my dashboard battery light started flashing intermittently. This morning it came on and won't go off.
So far I have...
1. Tested alternator and battery with a multimeter and the results appear to be within normal ranges.
2. Pulled out the alternator and had it tested. It went through 7 test cycles on the bench and passed all of them.
3. Swapped out the battery with a new one.
4. Checked the charging system fuse.
5. Thoroughly cleaned the battery cables.
6. Cleaned the battery to chassis and engine to chassis ground cables.
The battery light stays on no matter what I do. What am I missing?
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Basically when the car is in D and when i am stopped with the brakes pressed on at a stop sign or a red light, the car starts vibrating and i can see the the rpm going down and then receiving back up and going down again something when the car is in R. its a 2009 toyota corolla le 90k miles. when the headlights are on, the rpm stays high so the car does not vibrate or anything. other than this the car runs perfectly fine.
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My 09 corolla is running rough when idling in drive. It doesn't happen in park or neutral.
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Lately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
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I changed the battery this morning in my 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT with the 2.4 and ended up with a rough idle. I was not having any of these issues before the change. How to adapt the throttle body?
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i own a 2010 corolla s with only 3000 miles on it. it is a 5 speed and the other day, when revving out 3rd gear to 5500 rpm, my motor started missing, and my check engine, vsc, and trac control lights came on. i turned off the motor and then started it back up and it ran fine but the dummy lights stayed on. i took it to the dealer and they check the codes and it showed that cylinder 2 missed. after explaining to them how it happened and taking a service technician for a ride, they took off the valve cover on my motor, and seen that 3 rocker arms had FALLEN OFF and they tried making me pay $700 to fix it because i was "over revving the motor". I was told that the rocker arms cant withstand that high of rpms and they will fall off due to the floating design "not bolted". but after 2 hours of arguing, they said they would cover it, but only this 1 time. I don't understand why they have the rev limiter set at 6,300 on these cars, when the rocker arms are capable of coming off at 5,500.
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I have a 2010 corolla s and I started to notice that when I was at red lights with the car in drive my rpm's would drop to around 600 but it would only do it randomly, or so i thought until one day I was at a light and turned the ac on and my rpm's went back up to 800 so I turned it off and the rpm's dropped again, turned on the headlights and they went back up.
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I have a 2010 corolla S with around 15K miles. I'm not sure if this is really an issue but it has been bugging me for sometime. I have noticed that sometimes the engine / ride feels really smooth and feels as if the car just sails along. But most of the days the ride feels a little bit rough/grainy... I drive mostly in the city (around 80%) and live close to work (3miles one way). I do oil changes every 5 months... Would some kind of tuning be required? Or is this just normal?
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Having problems with a ECM and throttle body for 2010 Corolla S? My corolla will idle rough and the throttle body will shut the car down to where it is inoperable. It throws codes and shuts the VVT down. The car currently has 56k miles on it and has been to Toyota 3 times in 3 months.
The first time they say they replaced the ECM, I really don't think so. 24 hours after we picked the car up it shut down again. The second time we brought it back in they said the brake light bulb caused the throttle body to shut down.
It had to go back again this week after it shut down again in traffic when it was idling. Toyota said the throttle body had to re-learn the idle again from when the ECM was supposedly replaced.
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I just purchased a 2010 Corolla LE with 21,000 miles and I am wondering if I just made an immense mistake. I raised the question during the test drive and the salesman said all Corollas sound and ride the same, his wife had one, etc., telling me it's fine.
I badly needed to replace my old car and bought, despite my misgivings. Now that I own it, the road noise is staggering. Truly stunning and unpleasant. Or, from a bit of reading here, perhaps it's the tires. Really?
And every bump reverberates through my whole body and sounds like bad shocks. Whomp, whomp, whomp, down the road! But this is a certified car and supposedly they would have checked shocks/struts or whatever is there.
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