Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Engine Cranks Or Turns Over About 3 Times Before Starting
Sep 4, 2014
09 corolla. Wife said it was hard to start this morning and when she got off work. it started fine right after she got home. i waited a few hours, after dinner and went out to start it and it takes the engine about 3 seconds to start.
Normally when I turn the key the engine cranks up and starts. today it cranks or turns over about 3 times before starting. and there's no error/engine lights. tested the battery, full charge. not sure what else to check.
We are in Houston TX, with about 95'F day temps, you could call it a cold start since the engine has been resting and cooling off. but not cold like freezing temp.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla (It has a 1ZZFE engine). The car for a long time was a little problem when starting (long cranks and several tries before starting, but no check engine light at all), then, after adjusting the PVC hose for 3 days the car worked perfectly, but one week ago, in the morning when trying starting, it was impossible. I scanned and got a U0100 code, tested crankshaft position sensor and it is ok, tried with the other key but same result, only cranks, no start at all. After scanning, it started briefly and suddenly went off, tried again, and only cranks.
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I have a 2009 Corolla 1.8L. It turns over but won't start. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on or when I try to start it. There are 3 EFI fuses, and all of them are good. There doesn't seem to be an EFI relay (correct me if I'm wrong). I've replaced the fuel pump and it still won't start.
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I own a 2012 Toyota Corolla S w/ 8700 miles on it I am the first owner. Check engine light blinks on and off 8 times. I cleaned the gas cap threads and neck, then I reset the computer by removing the positive terminal for 1 minute. I also checked the oil it's fine. Light still blinks? I have many years of mechanical back ground, without running codes I don't know this one
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I have a 2010 Corolla LE w/ about 90k miles. I took it to work. parked. Went back to car. Engine cranks. Won't start. Lights are bright. Radio on. Jumped it and it started up no problem. Took it and got a brand new battery. turned car on and it worked with no problems. took it home. next day went to work. started w/ no problem. After work, started with no problem.
NEXT DAY... Engine cranks again....won't start. Tried to jump it again but NOTHING.
(also, just want to mention there is no history or indication that this was gonna happen. no jumpy starts...no shaking...nothing.)
Someone came out and checked: alternator, battery, starter, everything checks out good and working.
Spark plugs: GOOD but no spark...thought it might be crank sensor. Tried to change that out, still won't start.
In the midst of all this my key was acting up. finally it broke out of the lock part....the actual key separated (not broke) from the alarm part. i went to go make a duplicate w/ the key part and tried the duplicate key and it still won't start. do these things have a chip in them that activates the crank sensor? I've been w/o my car for about a week and i feel as though it's right in front of me.
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So have this 2010 Corolla LE. Been really cold here last while, did not drive for 2 days. Local temperatures around -20C ... Anyways today went to start car after having plug to block heater for 3 hours. Car did not start.
Thinking ignition switch... When I turn key. All lights come on. as normal. but when to try to turn over, no response from engine at all. no engine noise or anything, just see oil light come on and clicking sound.
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I have a problem with my wife's 2010 Corolla where the AC only comes on at random times. The blower blows constantly, but only blows cold air every once in awhile. When it blows the cold air, it feels perfect. We had it checked at three different places and they still haven't found out what's wrong.
The first place refilled the coolant and got it working, but it only lasted a day. When we took it back they said it worked fine for them, but took it home and again it crapped out the next day. Took it back to them and they couldn't figure it out.
Second place said it needed a new or refurbished compressor, but that didn't make sense to me since when it's working, it works great. Also pressure was normal on hi and lo.
Third place took a look at it today and said they got it to work briefly by turning on the heat??? Doesn't make sense. They're closed on weekends so we'll take it back to them on Monday and they'll continue to troubleshoot.
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I am very happy with my 2010 corolla, except for the annoying beeping. I live in a very quiet townhouse row and the cars are parked right in front of the houses. So, when I get up in the morning to get in the car, it beeps when I unlock it and on good weather days when the windows are open, there are at least 20 units that can hear it. It is very embarrassing. What is worse, randomly in the middle of the night, at 230 or 3am, it will beep five times quickly. My neighbors want to kill me! The engine light has been on for a few weeks because I am due for an oil change. Could it be related to that? And how do I turn this thing off?
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So I recently replaced my battery with A yellow top battery and got a new 320 volt alternator....my car turns on but will shut off because there is no power coming from the alternator and is running just on battery power alone which is draining the battery. Even when I pull the positive off the battery when it's running it turns off...no power is coming from the alternator but we realized the 4 wires that connect to the alternator only 1 was running power, if I'm not mistaken isn't it suppose to be 2? But we cannot seem to figure out the issue as well the alternator fuse is good we checked that as well , my mechanic also mentioned when the car is off there is still power running from that 1 wire,
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I've got a 2009 Corolla CE, 5 speed. I've only had the car since september and had no issues until now. Now that there's snow on the roads, my car's ABS has starting coming on a lot more. Whenever it comes on, there's a noise that sounds very similar to grinding gears in a transmission coming from the front of the car. It's the first car I've ever had with ABS, and I've never heard this noise in any of my friend's cars with ABS, so I don't know if this is normal or not.
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Toyota Corolla S 2009 Automatic 4 Door
Saturday I changed the starter because the old one was going out and I didnt want it to die so it was preventaive. Went to put in the sparkplugs but the dealer gave me the wrong ones, drove to the dealer and they pulled out one I had to check it and put it back in. (I had 9/16 long plugs, which is rare for my engine apparently.) I went to leave, and when I turned it over, nothing happened. I pulled the Key out, waited 5 seconds, started up. Went home, put in the sparkplugs and drove about 300 miles since Saturday and no problem.
Today I went to leave and the car turned over multiple times, after the 4th, it acted like it was starting but shut off and kept turning over.
First, I checked all the wires on the plugs and around them, even pulled all the plugs and put in the old ones. Same problem.
I unplugged the battery and hoped if it was a computer glitch that it would have fixed it. Same problem.
When I turn it over, the started keeps going and it will pretend to turn on for half a second and then keep turning over. I also smell raw gas when I get out of the car for a few seconds before it goes away.
The last time it did throw codes, but I have no reader. I have to wait for the neighbor to pull them. Is there anything I can test or check out? Everything as far as the wires and fuses look good. I am at a loss for where to go.
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So yesterday i just noticed a ticking sound (drivers side, almost sounds like its coming from from under my drivers seat underneath the car) when i make sharper turns, but it wont tick when i make regular turns or go around corners.
I lowered my car about 5 or 6 months ago on Tein S Tech 9th gen springs, could that have caused whatever this ticking sound is to start ?
2010 Corolla
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I've owned this vehicle for the past year. This 2009 Corolla XRS manual has a very annoying steering rattle which took me the whole year to finally breakdown and diagnose. There are many forums stating this rattle is associated with the intermediate shaft assembly #2. I did end up replacing this part 45260-02110, hoping this would fix the rattling or knocking issue. It did not, but smoothness the steering has improved. I removed the upper portion of the intermediate shaft to pinpoint the sound. Originally I believed the noise may have been coming through the bulkhead from the intermediate shaft #1 or steering rack. I checked under the boot and everything was snug. Then I rattled the steering wheel around and this what I found.
It seems the noise is coming from the pinion where the power steering motor meets the steering column. You can hear the knocking noise with settle steering wheel movements. As I move faster, the knock turns into a rattle at higher speeds most likely vibration from the road. At this time, I do not want to disassemble the whole column just to see if I can adjust the motor height (if possible).
YouTube : [URL] ......
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I have a 2011 Corolla S with 58k miles and 3 of 4 doors locks are intermittently starting to fail. I have seen videos on YouTube of the OEM actuators being rebuilt with the motor being replaced. I am hoping to avoid having to pay $200+ for each of the locksets.
I can find multiple motors that "fit", but they all have different size motors and shaft sizes. What are the specs on the replacement motor? I have done a search on the Toyota nation app and cannot find any posts on this.
The part I found is Machi brand, model # FC-280PC-22125.
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I have the 1.8L engine with automatic transmission and when I start my car, it has a loud grinding sound that lasts about 3-5 seconds. The Initial rpm after you start the car also idles around 1800-2200 rpm for almost 10 seconds before it goes back to 1000rpm.
The high idling also stops if you shift it into Drive (D) or Reverse (R) but in Neutral (N) it will jump back up to the high idle.
This started occuring november of last year. At first I took it to dealership but they could not diagnose it because they never heard the sound. It ONLY happened when it was cold below 30 F, but recently it has been becoming MORE and MORE frequent and now almost happens everytime I start the car. But it won't happen if the outdoor temperature is above 60 degrees or if I start the car shortly after I shut the engine off (like a 2-3 hour break in between).
I thought it might be a loose flywheel, bad torque convertor, or a faulty electronic throttle control system. I do NOT think it is the starter because it starts everytime even on the coldest of days just that the grinding sound is annoying.
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I've been having this occasional starting issue with my truck. I turn the key and the engine acts like it's going to fire up, so I let go of the key and it doesn't start. Then I try to restart it and either it cranks and fires a few times before it starts, or it fires right up and the starter grinds because I couldn't let go of the key fast enough.
I've had this problem a few times before, but lately it seems to be happening more often. It works normally 98% of the time. Maybe I'm just not letting the engine crank long enough to get it to run before letting go of the key.
Also, the spark plugs were just changed 10k miles ago and when the truck is running it runs great.
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I have a 2011 corolla. the engine just dont have any pep. is there a way to swap 1.8 for a 2.4 . is it worth the effort. or how can i get more pep without sinking lots into it.
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I own a 2009 superwhite corolla xrs. I've owned the car now for several months . Ever since I got It, I've heard a noise coming from the engine bay . Sounds like a Metallic rattling .seems to do it in the cold and warm weather . I have a feeling that its the water pump . Every time I take it to the dealer it doesn't make the noise. It's makes the noise on a regular basis . Check out the video... ignore the dirty dash low fuel light... I was parked by a gas station i swear.
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My daughters 2009 will start right up but after about a second it shuts right off we tried it several times and it shuts right down.If you wait for 10 to 20 mins it starts and runs fine.
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My 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem. I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons. Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue. It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning". Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?
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My engine just went out in my 2009 Corolla XRS. What vehicles have the same engine as a 2009 Corolla XRS 2.4L manual transmission?
Also, what would it take to put in the 1.8L engine? Would it bolt straight up? Would I need a new ecu/wiring harness/mounts/exhaust/trans etc?
I am considering putting in a rebuilt or used transmission at the same time because my syncros were failing.
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