Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Drivers Door Mysteriously Locks By Itself
Apr 4, 2013
I have a 2013 Corolla with about 6000 miles on it. The drivers side door mysteriously locks after my wife gets home in the evenings. We do not lock it at the house, but when we get into it after she gets home to go somewhere, the driver side door is locked, but none of the rest of the doors. Is there a recall for this problem? Or is it something new that Toyota has not discovered yet? It's the only problem I've had so far with this car, so far it has done this four times in the last month. I just turned in an 07 Tundra with 250,000 miles and had only one problem with where it went into " Limp" mode because of water in some emissions control box at around 160,000 miles, so I hope to get as good service out of the Corolla. It is not the auto relock feature, as I'm familiar with that function on the Tundra.
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i have an 09 corolla s auto.i wanted to change it so it would not unlock when you put it into park. i read the manual Page 42. it says to
step 1: turn key to on position (engine off)
step 2: shift the lever to p or n(for stick). and press the the lock button for approximately 5 seconds and then let go to activate or deactivate the auto locking. or if you push and hold the unlock it activates or deactivates the auto unlocking.
well they don't say to wait for the seat belt chime, when you hear the chime push and hold the lock or unlock button depending on what you want and release just prior to the end of the chime. -- they don't say this in the book, but this is the only way to get it to work.
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My driver side door locks by itself when I was washing the car. Is this normal. Happened to me twice now. Once when I was working in the garage. I just heard the car beep.
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Is it possible to reset or shut off the auto door locks?
When I use my use my factory remote to unlock the doors it usually locks itself within one second. If it don't time it right I'm pressing that button repeatedly trying to open the door. This is such a pain and it's annoying. Sometimes when I go to open the door so that I can exit the vehicle it locks itself midway me opening the door so that I'm stuck.
I called the dealer and shocker they want me to come in so that I can get screwed. There must be a way to just reset or reprogram this.
I have searched I have seen threads concerning the locking when you shift out of park. I am asking about just locking and unlocking the car.
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My wife's 2010 Corolla has an issue where the key fob will open the truck and all the doors except the front driver door. Is this a common issue with the Corolla? What are the potential fixes?
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How to disable the auto door locks but I have the opposite problem. Mine were not enabled and I would like them to be. Looking for instructions for enabling the auto door locks? 2010 s, no smart key, manual transmission.
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I have a 2009 Corolla with no power locks.
All key programming sequences that I have found reference using the key fob and power locks cycling.
How can I program a new key with this base model car?
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Just picked up a used 09 corolla LE. It has power locks, but the keys are not integrated with buttons, nor are there seperate transmitters for keyless...
I figured it wasn't installed and I was just going to buy a viper kelyess kit until I looked at the trunk latch mechanism... there are wires plugging into what could be a solenoid right on the latch mechanism.
The latch is opened by a mechanical cable operated lever on the floor next to the drivers seat and by key from the outside on the trunk lid. Why would there be wires running to an electrical component on the trunk latch unless it is equipped with a remote release system?
So... my question is, how can I tell if my car has a keyless system installed, but not in use (no FOBs)... and if it is installed, is there a way to utilize it?
If it is not installed, I will just install a kit. I just didn't want to order a kit and find out is is already there.. What the heck does FOB stand for anyway?
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I have a 2011 Corolla S with 58k miles and 3 of 4 doors locks are intermittently starting to fail. I have seen videos on YouTube of the OEM actuators being rebuilt with the motor being replaced. I am hoping to avoid having to pay $200+ for each of the locksets.
I can find multiple motors that "fit", but they all have different size motors and shaft sizes. What are the specs on the replacement motor? I have done a search on the Toyota nation app and cannot find any posts on this.
The part I found is Machi brand, model # FC-280PC-22125.
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Speaker brackets and bracket preparation.
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I have a buzzy, vibrating speaker in my right front door. Is the speaker itself shot or is it just loose? Or does the plastic door panel vibrate against the steel door. Placing my hand on the door doesn't seem to reduce noise ( 2010 Corolla )
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The rubber around the rear passenger door of my 09 SE seems to have shrunk and pulled away from the spline. If I push it back in one spot, it pulls away in another.
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try to view the Scion Xd website. there it gives a few video instructions on altering the settings of the door locks. i tried it myself and it worked on the corolla too.
the default with the corolla is when you start the engine and move the shifter from P to D/3, all the doors lock. in the Scion Xd site it gives a video instruction where you can have the door to lock up when the car reaches a certain speed.
what i dont like about the corolla door lock up default setting is when you stop and put the the shifter to P again, all the doors unlock. im kinda paranoid about having the doors unlocked while i am inside the car. so for me the 2nd video instruction is most suitable.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla, and the door open indicator will intermittently turn on and off. I isolated the problem to the trunk, and unplugged the trunk latch assembly so that the trunk dome light doesn't drain my battery. Before I unplugged it, my key fob could open the trunk remotely. I can still manually open my trunk using a key or the lever next to the drivers seat. Is there something on the latch assembly that I can check if it's triggering?
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Today (1/11/2015), after I had just finished filling up the tank, I opened the car door and since the key was in the ignition the buzzer was sounding. However after 2 or 3 "beeps" it stopped and the door was still open. When I got home and pulled in the garage, I shut the car off, left the keys in the ignition and opened the door and there was no "beep," also the door ajar lamp on the instrument panel was out. I opened the trunk and the light came, then I opened passenger side door and the light came on. Does that mean that the switch on the driver's side door is bad? If so, is that a fire hazard?
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I have a 2012 Corolla. The key fob locks/unlocks all doors except the drivers door. I've read multiple forums saying its most likely the actuator in the drivers door, but the lock/unlock button on the door itself works just fine. This just seems weird to me. I'm really hoping it's not a complex electrical issue.
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My drivers door won't unlock and lock sometimes. It goes off and on. And it's starting to do it more often. Sometimes the beep won't make a sound too when I lock it. Only locks with manually putting the key in. I've tried to use my other key but it didn't work.
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I wanted to know where the door trigger is located and how exactly do i wire it to the viper system. After some research, i think that the door trigger wire is located about the kick panel at the bottom left connector, which would be a white/red wire. I have always tried this and never had luck.
Second question is when I actually do find the correct door trigger, which wire on the viper harness do i connect it to, The door trigger negative or the door trigger positive.
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It took me ten years to talk my wife into buying a Toyota. (Her brother sold Chevrolet)... We got a new 2009 Corolla LE made 4/2008 in Japan. (bought new in late 2008)...
The paint is fading on the rocker panels and the gas cap door. The rest of the paint I am trying to keep up. (clay, polish and wax). The paint chipped really bad on the hood. It was so bad I sanded it down and found rust pits all over the metal.
The engine makes a very loud rattle sound when starting. It is especially bad when cold. We took it to the dealer while under warranty and they couldn't hear anything unusual so they said.
She had the dealer install an alarm system. They botched the job and destroyed the computer requiring several trips back and a loaner car. Alarm no longer works today. The rubber weather stripping around the windows is pealing off.
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So my passenger front door is vibrating inside somewhere ... tho' it could be the door panel itself possibly !?
I've removed the door panel hoping to find something loose inside that is causing this buzzing. All the door panel's locating pins are intact and secure the panel as they should. In other words... The door panel secures as it should and nothing looks broken at it's attachment points.
The noise does not occur on a smooth road surface...and only occurs on rougher road. So I realize the vibration is being transmitted by road vibrations.
I can hear/feel a lite jolt from the tire's contact with the road's surface irregularities and if the road surface remains consistently rough ... that jolt turns into a buzzing drone type noise. Well ... at least until I hit a smooth road surface again. Then the buzzing subsides. No, it is not an electrical buzz/noise.
Sounds more like plastic vibrating against the door's inner surface... But I don't see a scuff mark or anything giving me a clue as to what it could be !?
I've thought of removing the door panel...then take a test drive without it installed. Just to be sure it is not the the window glass support/channels... door lock/lever mech. rod or loose wiring. But haven't done that as of yet. With the door panel removed... I don't see anything that looks loose or could be causing this rattle/buzzing noise ?
It's difficult to say exactly where this noise is transmitted from... but if I were to guess... I have to think it's possibly near center... around the arm rest area. I see behind that is only some wires coming from the window control unit. But I don't see how those could be culprit of this buzzing noise ?
My '10 is still under the 36K warranty...
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i just bought my 2nd hand 2009 corolla recently and i notice that my door remote is not working if the engine is in running condition.
let say i park my car in front of the mini store to buy something, i don't want to shut off the engine so that the inside of the car is still cold when i comeback after a few minutes. (by the way, i am here in saudi arabia...gasoline here are much cheaper that everywhere else).
the problem is, when i use my remote to lock the door...it wont work...unlike my previous cars, door remotes are working even the engine is on or off...
is there any settings from the computer or do i just have to do something from the inside of the car..
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