My mechanic just informed me that because of my extreme drop, the drive shafts are at an angle that is stressing the final drive bearing on the transmission. I am leaking very small amount of fluid, he said it might not be a big deal.
View 3 RepliesI would seem that my Neon has started a very small leak seems to be coming from the drive shafts. You may call the differentials. You may also call it a transaxle. I prefer to call them driveshafts and transmissions. I took it to a service place to take a free look at it. I do not have the equipment that they have. They put it on the hoist and when you walk under there it does look like it is coming from one of the driveshafts. They were not Tranny experts and said they could not fix it, but said it would need to be rebuilt or changed. My question is, since they are not tranny experts. Does something like this really need to be rebuilt? Is there not just a seal leaking that can be changed without a rebuild? Why would they make something like that? Just to make you pay more money to get it fixed? I did try some Lucas and then Trans X hoping that would seal it up. Lucas seemed to do nothing. Just put in the Trans X today.
View 9 RepliesI just recently had an oil change yesterday to be exact. I have never looked at my RPM when I drive, but at every oil changes the dealer always does the "Multi-point inspections", of which I do not like since the tech may ruin something that's not broken or does not put something back together correctly and may cause problems down the road. Anyways, I usually drive at least 80 on the highway. Yesterday I drove home, and I noticed that around 70-75, the RPM was at 3, and a bit over at 80. I've driven other cars and the RPM is never over 3.
View 3 RepliesI had a bud of mine make shims and gave me some negative camber in the back, and in the front, I maximized the camber bolt on my bc coils, this is per alignment stage. when I drive, the car feels a lil wobbly, is this normal? and will alignment fix the problem, or is this just part of the lowered/cambered life?
View 1 RepliesMy 09 corolla is running rough when idling in drive. It doesn't happen in park or neutral.
View 5 RepliesLately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 corolla S. sometimes when i shift from park to drive, it shifts smoothly and easily. most of the time when I am shifting from park to drive, it isn't smooth and doesn't shift easy. You can hear when you move it from park.
View 3 RepliesIt was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
I have a 2009 Corolla (smaller 4 cyl) with auto trans. at 101K miles. I have a whine at hwy speed when the drive line is unloaded. What I mean unloaded is there is no acceleration or deceleration. The whine does not change pitch or level with speed.
View 1 RepliesI recently bought a 2012 used Corolla LE from a dealer and i've noticed that when I drive at night the lights don't turn on automatically. They daylight running ones are one, but the actual headlights used for night-time use don't come on automatically. I'm able to turn the on automatically by just turning the switch, but I'm just curious why they aren't turning on automatically. I mean they're supposed to right, since its a standard feature nowadays?
View 14 RepliesMy 2013 Corolla drove 10 minutes with heavy steering after starting. The slip indicator turned on and stays on after. Would OBD II show the problem? Can one read OBD II without scanner? How to turn off the slip indicator?
View 1 RepliesWhen I drive my 2010 Toyota Corolla on a rough tar road, i feel dashboard vibration on the drivers side. The vibration is sensed in the instrument panel and also around the window. This happens if the tar road is rough or uneven. Is there anyway to remove the top of the dashboard and insulate it?
I live in sunny South Florida, so the heat makes the plastics in these corollas rattle or vibrate more, going over rough tar roads.
I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix S. There is a rattling noise coming from my engine compartment whenever i drive 60+ mph. It sounds like it's metal on metal. Nothing is loose inside. I took it to the dealer and they told me the water pump bearings were bad and replaced my whole water pump. That didn't resolve my problem. The rattling is still there.
View 2 RepliesI just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
View 3 RepliesOn a 2ZR-FE 1.8L what keeps the cam bearing shells from spinning? This would be the shells closest to the cam chain, sprockets etc.
Are there the little tabs that are bent out at the end of the shell like a rod bearing, or are they locked into position as the cam cap is tightened?
My buddy's 94 Grand Cherokee with 5.1 L has developed a loud grinding noise. I thought it sounded like a wheel bearing but the shop said, "front differential, transfer case, and possibly drive shaft."
Does it sound feasible to remove the drive shafts to and from the transfer case, to see if the noise disappears (indicating transfer case and/or shafts)?
If it is the front differential, how big of a job is it to change the whole unit out? Could it be a bearing in the differential; inner axle bearing, or carrier bearing or something?
It is a work vehicle, and he doesn't want to sink big repair into it.
My throw out bearing makes a faint chirping noise since I bought the car, but now that the weather has been in teens, it seems to be louder.
I was wondering if it is possible to grease the throw out bearing or something without dropping the transmission.
Title should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.
So my girlfriend got this car (2013 corolla s) a few months ago and we started hearing a funny noise, I thought it was a wheel bearing going but nope its the ouput bearing on the tranny, passenger side. is this common on corrollas? how hard is it to change? I have a tranny from an 06 corolla, are they the same? and could i just swap trannies if changing the bearing is too difficult?
View 2 RepliesFirst... Items I have replaced:
- New EGR valve
- New sensor
- New Fuel filters
- New Oil filter
Problem:
While driving I have a stumble along with a small amount of black smoke at this time ( was white/bluish smoke ) previous. I have dis-connected the batteries to force the computer to relearn the EGR valve. The turbo spools up .. getting about 20 psi @ hard throttle and then about 5 psi after it goes into the final drive gear. Speaking of which ... the stumble is always worst on the final drive gear...