Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Disturbing Vibration With Sound On Brake Pedal
Aug 16, 2012
This vibration with sound on my brake pedal started after i change my stock intake to takeda. Well, Not all the time this thing happen, only when im in this kind of situation:
Pressing and hold my brake pedal at full stop and the gear is set to Drive, then, when the RPM goes down to below 900, the vibration with sound started, and it only disappear when i release my brake or when the RPM goes up automatically.
But, this only happened with this kind of situation when my car already heated up (like driving it more than 10 mins) and the temperature is at stable level.
While my car is just started driving, or its not already heated up, no vibration is happening.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
2011 Corolla LE. Recently I upgraded the air intake, look at the picture
Shortly after that both me and my wife noticed that the brake pedal vibrates while car is In stop on lights. The vibration is only on the pedal and if you press it hard you suppress it. But when you feet is pressing light in the air it's very noticeable.
She also thinks that during above scenario RPMs go from about 1000k to 900 so are dropping. To be honest I did not notice that and not sure if this is normal or not. Other than that the car runs great and sounds much nicer bit loud but I like it.
View 4 Replies
Is this normal? You can hear the air coming out.
The reason I ask if it's normal is because it seems like I have to press my brake pedal halfway down before it engages. At least an inch or two. However I can still lock up the beaks. But it seems like they are not as sensitive. Takes a bit of travel to engage.
I've already bled the brakes too.
View 1 Replies
2009 XRS ABS brakes .... I changed all four brake pads and flushed out most of the old brake fluid. Bled all four sides. But now while I am in idle (like waiting for a light to turn) my brake pedal is spongy and is making a hissing sound. All was good before I did this job.
View 3 Replies
On my 2010 s ,my pedal brake begin to work on low position, I have 35000km it is normal? my wife hate this car because this.
View 4 Replies
I did a search and found nothing. When I press on the brake pedal, it seems to go half way to the floor before grabbing. The other 2010 I tested did the same thing. Is this common or is this something that I need to take to the dealer?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
View 6 Replies
I have a Toyota Corolla 2010 LE. When I'm driving, no matter how fast I drive, I feel a vibration sound. When I press brake pedal, it's worse than driving. I recently replaced front rotors and brake pads. I also replaced whole tires a month ago.
View 9 Replies
When I am driving holding the gas pedal and the rpm at about 1500-2000 rpm but when I release the gas pedal the rpm goes down maybe 500-750 rpm then back up.
View 4 Replies
Is there anyway we can adjust our throttle or gas pedal? Cause when I press down on gas, it doesn't open until about an inch down the pedal. Pretty much, I just want the throttle to be more responsive.
View 7 Replies
Recently purchased my first Toyota, a 2012 Corolla S with 76,000 miles on the ODO. I have a concern about a front end rumbling.
First, the problem...
This "rumble" (the best way I can describe it) starts becoming noticeable around 20-25 mph, depending on the condition of the road I'm on (it could be lower, but I'm in Michigan, all the roads are bad here). This rumble isn't a noise, but more of a low frequency sensation that can be felt in the car and through the steering wheel, and vibrates the rear view mirror. The rumble comes and goes, it isn't constant. Sort of like driving over a rumble strips put on roads before stop signs/intersections, it seems to have an oscillation to it. The rumble intensifies very little with speed. It doesn't seem to oscillate any faster or rumble much harder, it's just there.
Things I've ruled out...
Brakes. When I bought the car, the first thing I noticed was that the front brake rotors were slightly warped, so I installed new rotors and good pads. That didn't get rid of the problem, though I didn't really expect it to.
Tires. The previous owner had seriously over-inflated these tires. Once taken down to their proper pressure, they were noticeably cupped down the middle. These tires were also horribly noisy would not balance, so brand new tires went on (Michelins). The new tires greatly improved the ride, reduced noise, and got rid of a lot of other shakes and vibrations, but the "rumble" remains.
Wheel Bearings. I'm not 100% on this one, but as far as I can tell, it's not the wheel bearings. I've taken the car out on twisty roads and there is no change in the rumble through hard turns, nor any additional vibrations of any kind. Usually bad wheel bearings will exhibit some noise or vibration when being loaded in a turn, but not in this case, so I've ruled them out.
Things I'm not sure about...
CV Joints. I've never had a CV joint go bad or fail on me, so I am unfamiliar with the common signs and symptoms. I have inspected the boots, and they appear to be in good condition and crack free, though that doesn't mean a joint isn't failing. There's no clicking during slow sharp turns, but I think that would only present itself if an outer joint was failing. I'm going to get the car in the air this weekend to do a drain and fill on the tranny (the fluid is getting pretty dark, so I want to get some new in there).
I drove a Ford Focus for the past 10 years and a Ford Contour for 10 years before that, putting over 200,000 miles on both, and never experienced any sort of problem like this.
View 8 Replies
It was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
View 1 Replies
My wife's 2009 Corolla S has 107,000 miles. Early on it developed a low idle and vibration while stopped at a light. It was idling about 600 rpm after it warmed up. It never stalled but occasionally vibrated. After doing some research I found some were having success cleaning the throttle body and throttle plate. I did that along with changing the spark plugs. At that time I disconnected the battery to reset the computer. She has put about 2,000 miles on it since then and it never idles below 800 rpm. The vibration hasn't been back either.
I believe it was the throttle body/ plate cleaning and disconnecting the battery that resets the computer that fixed it. The plugs still looked good at 105 K miles, but I had new ones so I put them in. I bought a can of Berryman b12 choke & carb cleaner and sprayed a little on the throttle body and plate and then sprayed some on a rag and wiped down the body and plate. It was quite dirty.
View 14 Replies
Basically when the car is in D and when i am stopped with the brakes pressed on at a stop sign or a red light, the car starts vibrating and i can see the the rpm going down and then receiving back up and going down again something when the car is in R. its a 2009 toyota corolla le 90k miles. when the headlights are on, the rpm stays high so the car does not vibrate or anything. other than this the car runs perfectly fine.
View 1 Replies
Recently, my 09 corolla S starts shaking during slow moving . As I accelerate more, it start vibrating at high frequency. And I can hear the sound "kin kin kni.." I checked the tires, they all look fine. It has 60k miles on.
View 2 Replies
Title should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.
View 14 Replies
I have Corolla 1.6 dual VVTi (year - 2009.), manual transmission, 1ZR engine, for about a year, ~50000miles on clock. About a month ago from a engine part it began to produce sound that can be heard on the accompanying recordings.
For these sounds is characteristic that:
- can be heard only while driving and depressing a gas pedal, its not heard when Im changing rmps while the car is stationary..
-only when engine is warm
-from about 1900rpm to 3000rpm.
-Toyota service is not useful, they fail to locate the source of the sound.
I submit sound recordings that I made by placing a microphone in the motor department.
[URL] ......
View 1 Replies
I bought my 2010 Corolla 5 years ago with 17,000 miles on it. Since then I've put on about another 46,000. With 63,000 miles it needs it's 4th set of rotors due to brake pulse and shudder. We live in the prairie and I'm not hard on brakes. The brakes have never felt like my 05 Corolla.
Can this be caused by too aggressive of brake pads?
View 3 Replies
year: 2009
miles: 80160
This usually happens when im on the highway i guess because im usually going over 50mph I hear like a loud humming and vibration and if I turn the steering wheel left or right it becomes unbearable, like deafening. What may cause this, im thinking maybe i need an alignment or wheel balancing or just new suspension.
View 2 Replies
2010 Corolla 1.8 automatic. Accelerating at highway speed (2800-3200) rpm a low frequency shudder/vibration is felt in the floorboards. Goes away of you let up off of gas pedal. No vibration at idle, runs fine all other times. Most noticeable when accelerating under load (ie going uphill) and at highway speed. Trans mount visually intact. Ditto engine mounts. Cv axles less than 1 year old no rattle upon shaking.
View 5 Replies
I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
View 2 Replies
