Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Car Will Shift Straight From Overdrive To Second Gear
Feb 26, 2015
I have an issue, and I think the answer is to drain and fill the transmission fluid a few times. I have an automatic 2010 S with 87,000 miles. I did a drain and fill on the transmission fluid about 15,000 miles ago - just a single drain and fill.
Here's the issue. Normal driving down the road, everything feels and shifts great. However, if I'm rolling along and then floor it wide open, usually the car will shift straight from overdrive to second gear. If the car downshifts only one gear, like from OD to 3, or 3 to 2, it's nice and smooth. However, in the situations described above, if I really nail the throttle, I get a hesitation and a very rough shift almost every time from OD to 2. That said, if I'm going down the highway and know I'm going to need second gear to pass someone and I shift it into second manually while accelerating, it's smooth with no issues.
I looked at the fluid the other day. It's a little over filled on the dipstick and it's a dark red. Not brown, but it's definitely overdue for some TLC. I'm just wondering if the symptoms are classic for two or three back-to-back fluid changes or if this is a sign of a larger issue.
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Why does the automatic transmission stay in 3rd gear and not shift into overdrive until it gets warmed up? It is so annoying. This is the only car that has ever done this. Even the camry I don't think does this. Especially the fact that the rpms stay above 1k rpm until the engine is warmed up.
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My Toyota corolla 2011 started to shift a bit hard from first gear to second gear and sometimes it feels a bit like choking since November of last year after I started to commute about 38 miles to work. It happens when I am taking off and going straight and it doesn't happen when I am turning left or right. I have taken it to the dealer once, they reset the transmission computer, but it still felt the same and the way the other gears shift felt a bit differently.
I have seen a similar complaint about the same issue of gear shift from first to second in the NHTSA website and another forum with the same issue with a 2009 corolla with a seemingly loose motor mount.
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Today I decided to change my rotors and pads out.. Got everything back together and i believe car is in limp mode.. It wont shift out of 3rd.. Abs light on ,check engine light, traction control and stability control light on.. Also my speedometer doesn't work but my rpm"s do...hooked up scan tool and comes back as wheel speed sensors.. I never touched them or removed them....
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Is it ok to put it on Neutral while I'm on stop, stop light, etc. while the engine is running? I have an Automatic....
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just got my new 2012 Corolla S AUTOMATIC and want to see if this knob will fit my shifter. Any tips on removing the OEM auto shift knob? URL...
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Woke up this morning and found a red light blinking by my shift knob. It was the passenger air bag. There was a lock on it. How come its doing that? My car is turned off. Could there be a problem with my air bag or was it just a code?
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Having an issue with 2nd gear in their automatic trans. I find that 1st pulls great, but then it shifts and just feels bogged down until it gets out of 2nd, and then it feels free again in 3rd and 4th. Wondering if this could be a problem with the transmission itself or if it just needs the shift points re-tuned?
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So the grind in 3rd gear is getting pretty bad. I have to put it into third slowly and 4th sometimes grinds a bit. Could it be the slave or master cylinder?
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2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed a/t
I have noticed that when my car shifts from second into third gear at around 50 km/hr that the rpm drops twice. It shifts (almost seemingly to a 2.5 gear) and the rpm drops and then a second later it's like it shifts again and the rpm drops again, is this torque converter lock up I am experiencing?
This also usually happens when I give it light throttle and not when I am heavily accelerating.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S that I bought new. It has a manual transmission, 19k miles and I have not had any problems until recently. Let me start by saying I've been driving a manual for over 20 years so I know how to drive them.
That night, in 1st gear it rolled out of my driveway. My driveway has a mild incline that the car has been parked on for a year this way with no problems. When I went to pull it back on it gave me trouble starting as if the starter got stuck but did not engage with the motor. Once started I pulled it back on and noticed that every few seconds it rolls back a couple inches then stops and holds for 15-20 seconds then rolls again.
It does this until it finds a flat spot to land on. Everytime its parked on my driveway now it wont stay there. Now before you tell me to use the p-brake, which by the way is the dealerships solution, let me remind you that the car has been parked in this spot everyday for a year with NO issues until last week.
Since this started I've been using the p-beake but I want to know why its doing this all of a sudden.
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I have a 2011 Corolla S Automatic with approx. 22,000 miles. This winter it is not wanting to shift from 3rd to 4th gear when it's cold (35 degrees F or lower). After I've driven about 1/2 to 3/4 mile it will finally upshift. It did not do this last winter.
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Tomorrow I'm taking my car in to have them look at my transmission. I started noticing that whenever I put the car in first, it almost feels like the front tires are skipping off the ground. It does the same thing when I put it in second. At first, I thought it might have been caused by my 18" rims, so I switched over to the stock wheels. Same crap.
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I bought a new corolla 2009, automatic transmission (Not Robotic!) From the first day, when shifting from first to second gear the car makes an unnatural noise, like a whistle or a whine. (during shifting and sometimes a little bit before).
It only happens in the transition from first to second. It does not depend on the RPM at the moment. When the engine is cold, in the morning, the sound is still there, but weaker, when the engine warms up, the sound keeps appearing for the rest of the day. (I live in a country with a hot climate)
I have been told, 2009 model has the same transmission just as previous models, is it true? or there have been some changes in it?
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I recently purchased a new 2010 Toyota Corolla LE auto and I really like it. I have about 2000 miles on it now and just recently noticed a faint gear whine coming from the transmission at around 60 mph. You can only hear it when the radio is off and you really listen for it during the acceleration. It only does it when transmission fluid is fully warmed up after driving for about 15 miles. 2010 corolla uses U341E transmission that specifies Toyota WS transmission fluid. I noticed that 2001 - 2005 Supra uses the same transmission but it requires T-IV fluid which has more viscosity than WS. Noticed this faint gear whine on this car or do I need to take it to the dealer? My other car 2003 Toyota Echo uses U340E transmission and it has gear whine as well, except it is more pronounced than in Corolla, so I an trying to figure out if this is normal for this transmission or not.
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I had put on about 300 miles on the car in my sig before this started happening. Every once in a while as the car goes to upshift it will free rev a couple hundred rpm before falling into the next gear. I have not been driving it hard at all and have been driving easy when this happens.
Could be something as simple as needing a fluid change but the thing only has 34,000 miles on it, I hope it's not serious.
Upon a cold start up it sounds like the serp belt squeaks for about half a second on a pulley that isn't spinning freely. That's what it sounds like. I am just wondering, are these "known issues" with these cars?
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I have a 2010 S with 70,000 miles. At 60,000 miles, just after the warranty ran out on me, I started to get a gear grinding noise for approximately one second immediately following a cold startup. It doesn't happen all the time, but I'd say once out of every eight starts on cold mornings after it's been sitting. I researched the issue pretty extensively and it seems to narrow down to the cam timing gear being the issue or a bad starter relay. The 2009's had a TSB for the issue being a cam timing gear, but the dealer assures me that my vehicle is not one of the ones covered by the TSB.
I'm inclined to try the relay fix, since a new relay is only $60. The thing is, I would hate to install the part and find out that the issue remains and then be out $60. Any identical relay elsewhere in the car that I can swap it with to see if that work. Of course, if the relay is bad, I'd be breaking something else possibly. Or, even better, is there a way to test the relay to see if is the cause of the problem?
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I have a 2010 Corolla S with automatic transmission. Today it started giving a push or a jerk when the 1st gear drops, so from 1st going to 2nd it pushes or jerks the car ahead. Not sure what is wrong with it, it has 56000 miles on it.
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2009 corolla le won't shift into park. Disconnected linkage and works good. Lever at trans moves smooth in every gear except park.
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2009 Corolla LE... IDLE will fluctuate from 600 to 900 while at a stop light. It will keep rev up and then rev down to the point where it feels like the car is about to turn off and then it will rev back up again. I use Shell 89 Octane fuel. I have tried everything with the car.
I have cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, changed the engine air filter, using only 0W-20 Synthetic oil (change every 3.5 to 4k miles). Have added Fuel Injector cleanered to the fuel: Have tried BG44k, Red Line SL-1, Techron Concentrate. Added Liqui-Moly Ceratec to the engine oil to reduce friction.
Now Changed the Bank 1 Sensor 2 for Oxygen sensor.
Drained the Transmission fluid, dropped the pan, changed the transmission filter and refilled it with the Toyota ATF.
Changed Spark Plugs and used the Toyota OEM Iridiums.
Reset the ECU.
Tires at 35 PSI.
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i own a 2010 corolla s with only 3000 miles on it. it is a 5 speed and the other day, when revving out 3rd gear to 5500 rpm, my motor started missing, and my check engine, vsc, and trac control lights came on. i turned off the motor and then started it back up and it ran fine but the dummy lights stayed on. i took it to the dealer and they check the codes and it showed that cylinder 2 missed. after explaining to them how it happened and taking a service technician for a ride, they took off the valve cover on my motor, and seen that 3 rocker arms had FALLEN OFF and they tried making me pay $700 to fix it because i was "over revving the motor". I was told that the rocker arms cant withstand that high of rpms and they will fall off due to the floating design "not bolted". but after 2 hours of arguing, they said they would cover it, but only this 1 time. I don't understand why they have the rev limiter set at 6,300 on these cars, when the rocker arms are capable of coming off at 5,500.
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