This issue has been happening for a few weeks now since it has been around -10C here. When I start the car it starts just fine but then the starter grinds against the flywheel (same as if you tried to start while car already on). I did a quick search and found that the relay may be faulty, Car is at 87000 kms.
View 5 RepliesIt is very cold here today about 10F. I started my 2009 Corolla about half hour ago just to make sure it would start. Started fine let it run at fast idle for awhile and shut it off. Went back out to start it again to head out and it will only run very briefly, maybe 1 second or so and then cuts off. It will continue to do that but will start and run normally. I tried for about 10 minutes but didn't want to run down the battery. I hope it is just the cold weather.
View 4 RepliesI have an '09 Corolla S with the non-JBL sound system, 6 disk in-dash changer and 6 speakers. I am getting no sound from the speakers except a small burst of static when I turn the ignition on and once in a while sporadic static. The Radio is still playing CD's, FM, Etc, but no sound. All fuses are good and the clock works. I disconnected the factory iPod interface and still nothing. I also tried a different aftermarket HU, but still no sound... I'm on the road all the time so I'm over 50,000k and there is no warranty left on the radio. I've also torn the dash out checking wires and connections and can't seem to find anything abnormal.
View 12 RepliesI got in my car this morning. When I went to crank it, the starter just started spinning. It kept spinning while the key was on. It never kicked in and engaged. What the fix will be? How do you remove the starter?
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla. I have been having some issues with the A/C. The A/C seems to work fine when the car is moving but when it is idle it gets warmer. I have recently gotten the freon checked and they put in some more but that didn't work, same problem still happening. Somebody told me that i need a extra fan which didn't make sense to me. Last resort will be to take it to the dealership to have them check. Once again the A/C blows cold air when the car is going over 50 MPH.
View 2 RepliesChecked the fuses under dash and under hood. Fuses look fine. The only things that don't power are Radio, Clock and side mirrors.
Everything else is fine. Recently changed battery BUT after new battery everything worked solid for days.
Recently got a transponder key made because old key broke.
If fuses are fine i'm not sure what else it could be.
Toyota Corolla S 2009 Automatic 4 Door
Saturday I changed the starter because the old one was going out and I didnt want it to die so it was preventaive. Went to put in the sparkplugs but the dealer gave me the wrong ones, drove to the dealer and they pulled out one I had to check it and put it back in. (I had 9/16 long plugs, which is rare for my engine apparently.) I went to leave, and when I turned it over, nothing happened. I pulled the Key out, waited 5 seconds, started up. Went home, put in the sparkplugs and drove about 300 miles since Saturday and no problem.
Today I went to leave and the car turned over multiple times, after the 4th, it acted like it was starting but shut off and kept turning over.
First, I checked all the wires on the plugs and around them, even pulled all the plugs and put in the old ones. Same problem.
I unplugged the battery and hoped if it was a computer glitch that it would have fixed it. Same problem.
When I turn it over, the started keeps going and it will pretend to turn on for half a second and then keep turning over. I also smell raw gas when I get out of the car for a few seconds before it goes away.
The last time it did throw codes, but I have no reader. I have to wait for the neighbor to pull them. Is there anything I can test or check out? Everything as far as the wires and fuses look good. I am at a loss for where to go.
A lot of videos have audio of a knocking sound, however my sound is more akin to an extra crank of the starter. It's intermittent at best, and I thought it was actually use error until I noticed the sound occurred a few times even when I briefly cranked the engine.
View 2 RepliesMy car refused to start after being in the driveway for about 2 days, the battery seems to be fine, the electronics are working, and the gas tank is full. The car seems like its trying to start and when you twist the key but after a seconds just sputters out. I checked under the hood, on the battery terminals there is some sort of red sticky buildup...
View 14 RepliesI have a 2010 Corolla XRS that been flawless until today. This morning I moved my car in my yard, it was about a 20 second adventure and all was good. About 2 hours later, I went to use the car and it wouldn't start. Now it just starts then immediately dies. If I try and crank it over without turning off the ignition, it just cranks. If I turn off the ignition and try again, it starts, then dies again. This is 100% repeatable.
Battery posts and voltage are good. No OBDII codes. Fuses all look good.
I posted a few weeks ago about the 2009 Corolla XE that I purchased from a Toyota dealer with 95,500 miles. Within days a buying the car it began to make a brief loud rattle on cold starts. People on this forum directed me to the VVT and they were right on. The car came with a 60 day warranty so they replaced the timing gear at no cost to me problem solved.
Now several weeks later, last night when I got out of the car with the engine running I heard a pretty loud noise that sounded like one valve very out of adjustment. This morning when I started the car the noise was no longer there but when I checked the oil it was a quart low. I have put about 1800 miles on the car since I bought it and the oil was changed at the dealer right before I bought it. I thought it being low on oil might be causing the noise. I took the car to the dealer and explained everything, the put a quart of oil in it and said to bring it back in about 1000 miles to check it out.
When I got back home the noise was there again so I guess being low on oil wasn't the cause. In terms of oil consumption the service rep said Toyota considers up to 1.1 quarts per 1200 miles to be normal oil consumption. This sounds like a lot to me.
And in terms of the noise that sounds like a loose valve I'm beginning to think it had something to do with the work they did to replace the timing gear. What would make this noise come and go? Doesn't seem to be any relationship to operating temp or how long the engine has been running.
So I guess I have two problems, potentially an oil consumption problem and a intermittent loud noise that I don't like the sound of. My power train warranty expires Nov 19.
And do the valves on 2009 are adjustable, the service rep said they were auto adjust?
2009 Sonata, 4 Cylinder, Auto. 80K mileage, runs well.
I have noticed intermittently that when shifting either out of park to drive, or drive to park that the starter begins grinding as if it is being engaged. The last few times I have jiggled the key and this stopped it.
Googled and found some folks saying it might be the ignition switch selector but am really unsure right now.
I have a Corolla XLi 2010 (1.6) which from the moment I bought the car it had this problem with the AC (I bought it used and was informed about the issue so I got it with a good price).
The AC sometimes starts and sometimes it doesn't I thought it was just lacking of freon gas but wasn't that, and except this problem the second one is that sometimes it smells like mold coming from the AC. May be are related or maybe not, but I really want to resolve these issues asap.
I'm adding some more info, when the AC isn't working I don't hear the AC sound, and of course when it's working I hear the classic AC sound, and another "thingy" is that when I push the car around 120km/h the AC keeps working more , and also some times if isn't working and I hit the turbo increasing the RPM and making the car scream like a sport car , suddenly the AC starts (but I don't do thsi all the time) and it's just my impression of daily-use.
I just got my '09 Corolla last night and it's doing something I'm not sure it is supposed to do. When I go out to my car I press the unlock button and open the door. A beeping noise starts immediately before the key is even in the ignition. When I do put the key in the beeping continues and does not stop until I close the door. The car I had before this was an '89 Corolla so I don't have any experience with these keyless entry things.
View 14 RepliesI noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.
I have been suffering from LH battery drain for some time now. sometimes its random I will park it for 10 min. come back and the battery is drained (I have to use the key to gain entry). sometimes it only happens over night, where other times the battery doesn't go dead overnight. so last weekend I decided to change the brakes...That was easy but then I forgot to hook up my battery maintainer...so you know what happened! now the problem is I charged the battery and hooked it back up. No start! everything works fine the battery is fully charged and only 1 year old.
But this is the weird part if I disconnect the starter battery the car starts up fine. I hook both batteries back up and try the parallel start way (turn to start then full counter clockwise then full clockwise several times no luck). the LH battery is drained now after a few start and stops (no driving) and the starter battery is fully charged. but with both batteries hooked up it wont even attempt to start and now I also have no power to the power trunk!!! this car is starting to suck balls.
I have a V6 with 162,000 miles. A year ago in the early spring we replaced the alternator, starter, fuel pump, lines, filter, dropped and cleaned the tank, fuel coils, repaired / replaced almost all injectors, spark plugs.Since April of last year, every few months my Car would have a hiccup of that it starts fine but would immediately die out. It would take anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes of trying to get it to start again. Other than that it would run beautifully. This week, while on the road it would jolt and die out. It happened 3 times. Yesterday morning it would once again crank fine and immediately die out. It will no longer keep running. We have not been able to keep my car started since then.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford F150 lariat with the 5.4 liter engine. At least once or twice a day, its like the starter hits a bad spot and will spin but not engage the flywheel. It has a new starter, battery, and solenoid. What this might be?
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2000 f150 4x4 ex cab with the 5.4. Once in a while when starting, there is a grinding and the starter won't engage the flywheel. The truck has only had 17000 miles put on it in the past 4 years, and has sat quite a bit. Could the starter gear be gummed up and not engaging all the way, or should the starter be replaced? Or could poor contact on the cables cause this? Or is this a flywheel issue?
View 14 RepliesI have a Chevy Tahoe 1999, Went to the store came out my Tahoe wouldn't start i had it towed home. My husband said the starter was clicking but wasn't getting enough power to turn the flywheel. We got a new starter put it on and it clicked just like it did when i tried to start it before. We took the new starter back and had the old one tested and it was ok so we put it back on and it still clicked like before. He said the flywheel was easy to turn, then he replaced the hot wire from the battery to the starter, now the starter don't even click.
View 17 RepliesThe starter in my '93 Dakota was dying (usual signs of worn brushes) so I replaced it with a new one from AutoZone. The starters looked the same, and after calling back to double check the part #, the store swears it's the right part. However, when I engage the starter, it spins but the pinion gear doesn't engage the flywheel. I can't see how I could have installed it wrong - the two bolts seem to have only one place they can go.
View 19 Replies