Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Car Crank But Wouldn't Start, Throws A Code
Nov 25, 2014
About 2 months ago I started having a problem starting my car. It would crank and crank but wouldn't start. Eventually it would start but threw a code for the camshaft position sensor. I figured I'd go ahead and replaced it. Still had the same issue after about a week without problems, except this time the crankshaft position sensor code.
I maintain my car very well, and it just recently passed 45k miles. It's a 2010 Corolla S.
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I have had an intermittent problem with my 2010 Toyota Corolla S Manual for awhile now. The vehicle has about 27k on it and I am the only owner.
This problem began a few years back where I would get in the car and crank it and the car would take longer than normal to start. It would usually chug a bit and then start so I wasn't too concerned at this point. Yesterday I had to crank on it 4 times stopping for 1 minute between cranks and the engine finally started and then chugged hard for a good 5 seconds or so.... I was reading that the previous models had a problem with the ECU documented here.
[URL] .....
This does not seem to apply to my vehicle although the problem seems dead on. I don't suspect battery. The car cranks hard.... Obviously it can't be the starter. I really doubt it's the fuel pump doing this. I'm going to guess ECU, injector, some funky electrical issue.
I bought this car brand new from the dealer with 2 miles on it and I can't think of anything werid that has happened to the vehicle. Before anybody says cold weather is a factor.... It was almost 40 when I cranked on my car yesterday so I doubt that is it. Also I started the car in much colder conditions. The car did sit for a week before this happened... I can't remember if the car sat for a long period of time before the other starting issues happened. I'm planning on taking the car to the dealership soon, I'm in the process of moving so I can't be without a car right now.
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I had this issue a few times during summertime and now its winter. I have tried used STP Fuel Moisture Removal, but it seems to work a bit.
However this morning the same symptom happened again, crank the engine over in -4 Degrees *C Temperature. Engine fires but probably on two out of four pistons... rpm gauge is going up and down not stable.
I corrected this by shutting the engine off by turning the Key to position off. Then I cranked it a second time, and the same thing was happening.... sputtering.... I added a bit of throttle to get the Engine to work out the bad gas and or water in the fuel lines.
Question: Should I have let the engine idle or add the throttle to the engine?
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Car wont even crank, no power to any accessories.
Car is making a clicking noise from the engine fuse book too as well.
Low engine oil pressure light also comes on too.
Checked the oil which is fine.
Checked fuses 2 weeks ago and they were fine.
Need a working car.
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A lot of videos have audio of a knocking sound, however my sound is more akin to an extra crank of the starter. It's intermittent at best, and I thought it was actually use error until I noticed the sound occurred a few times even when I briefly cranked the engine.
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My daughter has a 2011 corolla and when she first cranks the car the maintenance required light flashes a couple of times and goes out. I think last time I changed her oil, it was steady on. What is causing it to flash?
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I'm working on a 03 Toyota matrix base 1.8. it died on the road and now will crank and sputter a little but that's all. its getting good spark, not sure about injector pulse but I do smell fuel after cranking. I have also checked the timing chain it is tight but didn't try lining things up to check if it skipped. Seems to have good compression but didn't have a gauge on me. Also tried adding fuel and it wouldn't kick off of that. I'm thinking crank or cam sensor but don't have a scope to test and don't know how else to check them.
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My Corolla has the P0441 code, but not the typical 0445 code that comes with a loose gas cap. I cleared it and it came back (yes, I checked the gas cap). Googling the issue, I found service bulletin SB 0392-08, which implies the ECM could need to be replaced if the issue is not in the Evap system.
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I have a 2009 corolla LE with 81,000 miles on it. Today after I got gas, the check engine light came on. I checked the OBD code and it said P0607. I cleared the code and continued to drive it and it ran fine and the light has not came back on yet. I'm a little worried about driving it on long trips now.
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I have a 2009 Corolla with a 1.8 L. I have the misfire code P0301. I have changed the plugs, ignition coil, and fuel injector on cylinder one. It still has the misfire.
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I have the code P0500 on my 2009 Matrix. The odometer doesn't function, all error lights are on, the power steering is not completely out but it's reduced. Also, the rear windshield wiper is constantly on. I replaced the vehicle transmission sensor today because I thought that would fix it all. It had absolutely no effect.
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2009 1.8 Corolla . I'm chasing an intermittent P0352 code and misfire. Code points to coil pack #2 . Question is, which one is #2 ? I want to swap coils and see if the error follows the coil but I can figure out which cylinder is #2 and since all of the coil wires disappear into a loom, I'm not sure how else to tell.
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Corolla has this code : B1801
When i erase it comes right back!
Open in (D) Squib Circuit. What to start looking for?
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I have a 2009 Corolla S w/ 79K miles on it and recently my check engine light came on with the trouble code P0352. The engine would misfire while accelerating and then was extremely rough when at a stop light. This issue and check engine light have been happening intermittently over the last few days. I don't really know anything about engines/cars but doing some research came back with the following...
Possible causes
- Faulty Ignition Coil 2
- Ignition Coil 2 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Basically my question is how do I troubleshoot and figure out what the real problem is? I would rather not buy and replace the Ignition Coil if it is something else. From everything I have seen it seems the simplest method to test the coil is to switch out the ignition coil and spark plug on coil 2 with one of the other 3 ignition coils and see if the the trouble code follows it or stays on 2.
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2009 corolla 1.8l 155,000 miles. Replaced iridium spark plugs at 100,000
I got a CEL few weeks ago, P0301 Toyota - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Car has been running bad for about 2 weeks now, excise noise on the highway, especially up hills.
Yesterday, I took a look, replaced the spark plug in cylinder 1, same results. Checked the coils using one of those flashing tools, all 4 flashed quickly, with no breaks in flashing. put it all back together, cleared the code, went home.
Took it out for a drive today, and it started running way worse. Checked the CEL, and now I have both P0301 and P0303 Misfire on cylinder 1 and 3. Barely made it home, ran VERY VERY bad.
Got home, and made a video of it. It just kept dying. Check it out here. [URL] .....
Also, when it does run, it almost sounds like I can hear excess air, its hard to hear in video, but doesn't sound right. Maybe air leak? How do I check?
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The check engine light on my 09 Corolla came on so, after it continuing to stay on, I bought a OBD ll Code Reader. The scan showed 10 faults but, only 3 code numbers were given for the 10 faults. Each of the 3 code numbers appeared twice for a total of 6 out of the 10 faults indicated. The remaining 4 faults had no corresponding code numbers. Don't know why but, they just didn't. Even after multiple scans.
Here are the code numbers that did show.
P2401(twice)
P2402(twice)
P2419(twice)
According to the CD that came with the reader, this is what the codes mean.
P2401.. evap emission system leak detection pump control circuit low.
P2402.. same thing as above except control circuit high.
P2419.. evap emission system switching valve control circuit low.
Looking for more specific explanation to me what this all means then it has something to do with emissions. Is it something that should be of concerned? I have erased the codes a couple of times but after a day or two, the engine light comes on again. This has been going on for over a month now but, the car is working great. Last road trip, I got approx 52 mpg.
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I have a 2009 Corolla S 1.8 with a manual transmission and 30,000 miles. About a month ago the check engine light came on throwing a PO302 code (cylinder 2 misfire detected). I reset the check engine light and drove it about a week before the check engine light reappeared again with the PO302 code. I swapped the spark plugs on cylinders 2 and 3 and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared. I swapped the coils on cylinders 2 and 4, and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared. I swapped the fuel injectors on cylinders 2 and 3, and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared.
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My friend was told by Toyota that the Air Fuel Sensor code was the reason why her 2010 Corolla VSC and engine lights were on. This was after she visited her mechanic who changed the O2 sensor.
Is there a way to change the Air fuel sensor herself without having to pay Toyota...
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla (It has a 1ZZFE engine). The car for a long time was a little problem when starting (long cranks and several tries before starting, but no check engine light at all), then, after adjusting the PVC hose for 3 days the car worked perfectly, but one week ago, in the morning when trying starting, it was impossible. I scanned and got a U0100 code, tested crankshaft position sensor and it is ok, tried with the other key but same result, only cranks, no start at all. After scanning, it started briefly and suddenly went off, tried again, and only cranks.
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After taking my 2009 Corolla S to the dealer on 4/07 for an oil change, about 4 or 5 days later the check engine light, the traction control light, and the VSC light come on (VSC off blinks). The first day it came on, I took it to autozone to look the code up and they said it was P0353 (issue with ignition coil c I think). I immediately afterwards drove to the dealer to see what they would say. But after parking in their garage speaking with the greeters, they said the light wasnt on, and asked if I wanted to wait the 2 hours to see a tech. So I took it home.
The code came back about 3 days later, and this time there was a slight stall/jolt for about 4 or 5 seconds. This occured on startup and not during driving. After the 4 or 5 seconds of the mild jolting it felt like it was running smooth. I took it home and after leaving it off for about 20 minutes, the light went out again. A couple days later it came back and stayed on over night and was still present when I started it the next day. It went off again later that day.
My question is what could be causing this that might be a simple fix. Do toyota techs check anything with the spark plugs during normal Oil Changes? I know they checked my brakes but Im not a car guy and am not really sure all that they do. Could it be a loose spark plug? Code P0353 coming up sporadically after dealer Oil change. Is there any steps they normally do during the oil change that could be causing this, like leaving a spark plug loose after checking them or something? Would the coil / wiring harness fall under an engine warranty?
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My car is now 24/7 with this error which is Vehicle Speed Sensor malfunction an there seems to be no way of solving it, symptoms are:
*Speedometer not working, needle always in 0
*Power steering not working
*Car wont past 3rd gear
*Check engine light and power steering light on
I checked all 4 speed sensors and the wiring looks good and they look good. Also if i hit a bump, issue goes away for a couple of minutes, until i hit another, etc, so looks like a wire or short circuit, cant tell. Is there a speed sensor on the transmission as well? where is located?
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