I did a search and found nothing. When I press on the brake pedal, it seems to go half way to the floor before grabbing. The other 2010 I tested did the same thing. Is this common or is this something that I need to take to the dealer?
View 5 RepliesOn my 2010 s ,my pedal brake begin to work on low position, I have 35000km it is normal? my wife hate this car because this.
View 4 RepliesThis vibration with sound on my brake pedal started after i change my stock intake to takeda. Well, Not all the time this thing happen, only when im in this kind of situation:
Pressing and hold my brake pedal at full stop and the gear is set to Drive, then, when the RPM goes down to below 900, the vibration with sound started, and it only disappear when i release my brake or when the RPM goes up automatically.
But, this only happened with this kind of situation when my car already heated up (like driving it more than 10 mins) and the temperature is at stable level.
While my car is just started driving, or its not already heated up, no vibration is happening.
2011 Corolla LE. Recently I upgraded the air intake, look at the picture
Shortly after that both me and my wife noticed that the brake pedal vibrates while car is In stop on lights. The vibration is only on the pedal and if you press it hard you suppress it. But when you feet is pressing light in the air it's very noticeable.
She also thinks that during above scenario RPMs go from about 1000k to 900 so are dropping. To be honest I did not notice that and not sure if this is normal or not. Other than that the car runs great and sounds much nicer bit loud but I like it.
Is this normal? You can hear the air coming out.
The reason I ask if it's normal is because it seems like I have to press my brake pedal halfway down before it engages. At least an inch or two. However I can still lock up the beaks. But it seems like they are not as sensitive. Takes a bit of travel to engage.
I've already bled the brakes too.
2009 XRS ABS brakes .... I changed all four brake pads and flushed out most of the old brake fluid. Bled all four sides. But now while I am in idle (like waiting for a light to turn) my brake pedal is spongy and is making a hissing sound. All was good before I did this job.
View 3 Replies2002 F-150 4x4 w/ 5.4 v-8. Brake pedal goes half way to floor before it starts to stop the vehicle. I have replaced and bled the master cylinder, bled out all of the calipers, and the calipers are installed correctly because the bleeder screws are at the top on all of them so no air can be trapped up there. The truck seems to stop fine, but just takes more pedal to get it to start stopping than I'm comfortable with. Could the ABS unit need bled out too? Or could it be an adjustment issue with the booster rod?
Also, something else I noticed, and it may be related..the ABS unit usually makes a slight clanking sound (like someone kicking a metal garbage can) a couple seconds after the key is turned on. I know its the ABS unit because a couple weeks ago I had a friends scanner hooked up to the truck, and I went into the ABS computer to clear the codes (have ABS light on from what I found to be a bad sensor wire on the front drivers side according to the scanner) and as soon as i cleared the codes on the ABS, it made that sound. I don't know if maybe there is something wrong with the ABS actuator, or if it's related to the brake pedal issue.
Sometimes when I start my car it makes a weird cranking/grinding noise for half a second. The closest thing I have to engine mods are my TWM short shifter, and my borla axle back exhaust.
The noise only happens after my car has been sitting there, parked for a few hours. So to bring it to Toyota/mechanic would be nearly impossible to replicate, unless I left it there for a while. And even then, the noise only happens sometimes.
Yes I'm pressing my clutch pedal all the way down. No I am not holding the key too long when starting the car. What it might be?
My heater is currently stuck on the floor and I cannot get the vents to point to the defrost. I replaced the knob, and still nothing. It appears that the wiring to the knob connects to a wide cylindrical piece that looks loose.
View 1 RepliesSO I was working on changing my spark plugs on my 66k 10; corolla. I was trying to remove the bolt(holds the cooldown), at first it was hard to wedge it, but slowly I was able to loose it up little by little. ALL the sudden the bolt made a snap noise, half of the bolt(head) came out with the ignition coil, the other half is still stuck in the whole.
I didn't attempt to change the spark plug or work on the other cylinder heads thinking all the bolts may snap off that holds the coil down. I drove my car around and the coil didn't move at all.
When I am driving holding the gas pedal and the rpm at about 1500-2000 rpm but when I release the gas pedal the rpm goes down maybe 500-750 rpm then back up.
View 4 RepliesIs there anyway we can adjust our throttle or gas pedal? Cause when I press down on gas, it doesn't open until about an inch down the pedal. Pretty much, I just want the throttle to be more responsive.
View 7 RepliesIt was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
Title should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.
I have Corolla 1.6 dual VVTi (year - 2009.), manual transmission, 1ZR engine, for about a year, ~50000miles on clock. About a month ago from a engine part it began to produce sound that can be heard on the accompanying recordings.
For these sounds is characteristic that:
- can be heard only while driving and depressing a gas pedal, its not heard when Im changing rmps while the car is stationary..
-only when engine is warm
-from about 1900rpm to 3000rpm.
-Toyota service is not useful, they fail to locate the source of the sound.
I submit sound recordings that I made by placing a microphone in the motor department.
[URL] ......
I bought my 2010 Corolla 5 years ago with 17,000 miles on it. Since then I've put on about another 46,000. With 63,000 miles it needs it's 4th set of rotors due to brake pulse and shudder. We live in the prairie and I'm not hard on brakes. The brakes have never felt like my 05 Corolla.
Can this be caused by too aggressive of brake pads?
I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
So I was on my way home i was 2 miles away from my house and my abs light and e-brake light randomly go on. I got home and turned car off and back on and it was still there.
View 14 RepliesOur brake reservoir cap is rubber, and just pops on. There's a little top hat on top of that that plugs the tiny little breather in the actual cap. I lost mind down in the depths of the engine bay.
View 2 RepliesI have an 09 corolla S with 119000 miles.
My car shakes when i brake on the freeway and I just got new tires so Im sure it must be the rotors.
Is it better to just get new rotors or have a shop machine the old ones down.
Which way is more cost effective?? and how hard would it be to install them myself?
I have a 2009 matrix 1.8 automatic with 103,000km on it. The brakes were making a noise so I pulled off the front wheels and inspected and cleaned the front brakes which were in great shape. I pulled the rear wheels and found that the outer disc pads were wearing on about a 30 degree angle. The inners were just fine! I've been doing brakes for over 40 years and have never seen this! Also, the rears don't work hard and should outlast the fronts by at least 2! I called Toyota Canada and they blew me off until I asked to talk to someone higher up! They are doing a technical review, but I believe they will tell me it's just my car! I think it's a design flaw!
View 13 Replies