Is this normal? You can hear the air coming out.
The reason I ask if it's normal is because it seems like I have to press my brake pedal halfway down before it engages. At least an inch or two. However I can still lock up the beaks. But it seems like they are not as sensitive. Takes a bit of travel to engage.
I've already bled the brakes too.
This vibration with sound on my brake pedal started after i change my stock intake to takeda. Well, Not all the time this thing happen, only when im in this kind of situation:
Pressing and hold my brake pedal at full stop and the gear is set to Drive, then, when the RPM goes down to below 900, the vibration with sound started, and it only disappear when i release my brake or when the RPM goes up automatically.
But, this only happened with this kind of situation when my car already heated up (like driving it more than 10 mins) and the temperature is at stable level.
While my car is just started driving, or its not already heated up, no vibration is happening.
2009 XRS ABS brakes .... I changed all four brake pads and flushed out most of the old brake fluid. Bled all four sides. But now while I am in idle (like waiting for a light to turn) my brake pedal is spongy and is making a hissing sound. All was good before I did this job.
View 3 RepliesOn my 2010 s ,my pedal brake begin to work on low position, I have 35000km it is normal? my wife hate this car because this.
View 4 RepliesI did a search and found nothing. When I press on the brake pedal, it seems to go half way to the floor before grabbing. The other 2010 I tested did the same thing. Is this common or is this something that I need to take to the dealer?
View 5 Replies2011 Corolla LE. Recently I upgraded the air intake, look at the picture
Shortly after that both me and my wife noticed that the brake pedal vibrates while car is In stop on lights. The vibration is only on the pedal and if you press it hard you suppress it. But when you feet is pressing light in the air it's very noticeable.
She also thinks that during above scenario RPMs go from about 1000k to 900 so are dropping. To be honest I did not notice that and not sure if this is normal or not. Other than that the car runs great and sounds much nicer bit loud but I like it.
I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
2011 corolla ... My AC have not been working well lately and it's been incredibly hot out here in so cal.
The problem: AC takes a while to blow out cold air. It blows as if it was a fan, instead of AC... even at max. Ive let it run for about 30 mins, and no luck. Just a hot air blowing fan with the AC light on. It would get slightly cold at times, but it isn't enough for me.
I took my car to the dealership a couple of weeks ago with this concern... and they said they could not find any problems, and that it was working properly, blowing cold air at 44 degrees.
I've looked at the car myself to see if i could find any possible culprits... a refrigerant leak came to mind, or it may need to be recharged... but i could not see it.
Alright 2009 Corolla S 1.8L. 80k miles, 5 years old.
I just decided to start doing the service myself on my gf's Corolla. Switched to Mobil 1 0w20. Did oil and filter. Also, the battery had a lot of corrosion on the positive terminal so my dad unexpectedly poured a little coke on it and wiped it down.
That was two weeks ago. The car has started to take longer and longer to start. Like the battery is going dead. Did the switch to synthetic or coke on battery terminal make any changes to starting or is it just a really big coincidence. Oil level still good.
Have a click when the clutch engages? Manual transmission.
Everytime is release the clutch, I hear the clutch click when it grabs. It's not the pedal that clicks. It's inside the transmission.
It runs fine, and it's been doing it right off the lot. It's not that loud to actually bother me, I'm just wondering if its normal.
I think this is just poor dealer service, but I need a sanity check.
I have 93k miles on my Corolla. My clutch creaks like an old school bus when I engage and disengage. It's done this pretty much all along and I think I had another dealer successfully lube the linkage to quiet it down -- it was miles and years ago so I may be misremembering that.
My current dealer says all they can do for it now is REPLACE THE WHOLE FREAKING CLUTCH assembly to the tune of $1,300. Clearly, I'm not doing this. As long as it works, I ain't replacin' the clutch, but, REALLY?
I have 2009 corolla with about 125, 000 on it. A few times over the past couple of weeks on chilly mornings (in the 50's) the transmission did not engage in reverse right away. Usually with the fast idle you can feel it kick in but on these days it takes a few seconds before that happens. I have had the car for two years and have done nothing about transmission service. A dealer told me it was lifetime fluid and there is no dip stick to check it. Is this a common problem? Is this a sign the trans is on the way out? Should I sell the car now before it gets worse?
View 3 RepliesSo I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
View 3 RepliesWhen I am driving holding the gas pedal and the rpm at about 1500-2000 rpm but when I release the gas pedal the rpm goes down maybe 500-750 rpm then back up.
View 4 RepliesIs there anyway we can adjust our throttle or gas pedal? Cause when I press down on gas, it doesn't open until about an inch down the pedal. Pretty much, I just want the throttle to be more responsive.
View 7 RepliesIt was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
Title should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.
I have Corolla 1.6 dual VVTi (year - 2009.), manual transmission, 1ZR engine, for about a year, ~50000miles on clock. About a month ago from a engine part it began to produce sound that can be heard on the accompanying recordings.
For these sounds is characteristic that:
- can be heard only while driving and depressing a gas pedal, its not heard when Im changing rmps while the car is stationary..
-only when engine is warm
-from about 1900rpm to 3000rpm.
-Toyota service is not useful, they fail to locate the source of the sound.
I submit sound recordings that I made by placing a microphone in the motor department.
[URL] ......
I bought my 2010 Corolla 5 years ago with 17,000 miles on it. Since then I've put on about another 46,000. With 63,000 miles it needs it's 4th set of rotors due to brake pulse and shudder. We live in the prairie and I'm not hard on brakes. The brakes have never felt like my 05 Corolla.
Can this be caused by too aggressive of brake pads?
My husband and I put a new master cylinder in this vehicle recently. We bled the system but there is still excessive pedal travel. We tried bleeding the system again and had the same results. There are no apparent leaks in the brake system.
View 10 RepliesI have cd radio and aux all working on my 2010 corolla, the sound do not come from speakers. I tried another radio it works. I tried another stereo with tape in it it doesn't work. I tried my stereo on another car it works. What I don't understand is why only stereo with radio only works but if i have cd or tape player with it don't.
View 9 Replies