Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Axle Clicking Within Intact Boot
Feb 1, 2015
Our 2009 Corolla S 5-spd is making a ticking sound like a CV joint is out, but the boots are fine, and the sound is only consistent when there's three fat people in it. With just me driving, I can hear it, but it's just an occasional pop when turning, nothing like the very consistent and recognizable click-click-click noise of a dying CV axle, which is exactly what it does when there's weight.
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My son just bought a 09 Corolla LE and he gets this clicking noise every time the brakes are applied. The clicking noise comes from the Shifter.
I know that about the Shift Lock Solenoid, but this clicking sound is loud. I have been told that this is normal. So, I thought if this is what 10th Gen owners here is experiencing the same.
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My 2010 toyota corolla LE headliner makes a clicking sound in the back. This usually happens when I go over a rough road.
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Lately it's been -20 degrees (Celsius) here in Quebec, and when i start driving the car, as soon as i take a turn, i hear a clicking noise coming from the center part of my front, it doesn't sound like it's coming from my wheels at all. It doesn't matter if i turn left or right. The noise goes away after driving for 1 minute.
I took it to the dealer, but of course, they couldn't hear it because the car was warmed up, so I'm thinking of leaving it over night? I read that Civics and Corollas have thick Diff oil that cause this?
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I just bought a new corolla a few weeks ago, (Build Date April 2012), so far the car is great except for one issue.
I've noticed when pulling out parking spaces the steering column makes a clicking noise. It sounds more like a plastic noise. My last car had to have intermediate steering shaft lubed every 40k (Pontiac) but it was more of a "clunk" sound. This is more plastic on plastic noise however this appears to be only when the wheel is about 1/2 turn from the "end" or all the way left, or all the way right.
I am trying to figure out if this is a "normal" sound or if something was not put together right. Here is a video .....
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I bought a brand new 2013 Corolla S just 10 days ago. Everything seemed to be working great and I was really enjoying my car, until yesterday when we had a slight drizzle. I put my wipers into intermittent mode, and immediately noticed an audible "click" sound similar to that of the turn signals.
I was quite freaked out at first, so after parking my car I investigated a bit and found the noise was coming from the dash rather than from the wipers. After a few hours of digging around on the Internet, I'm 95% certain it's coming from the wiper relay, and that this is supposed to be "normal".
This is bugging the hell out of me, so my question is, if you can replace just the wiper relay, or would you have to replace the entire stalk/motor assembly? At this point I actually don't mind shelving out $200 if it means I can get some peace of mind, literally.
Which reminds me, if say you could get an OEM (or an ever better aftermarket) wiper relay, and you went to a mechanic to have it installed, would that void the warranty?
I understand there's variations and tolerances exist in manufacturing, but you'd think Toyota would've gotten something as simple as a wiper relay figured out! The 2013 Corolla S I rented for 3 months never had this issue, nor did my mom's 2005 Corolla, or my dad's 2011 RAV4. So why my car?
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Have a question about a noise I hear. This is a click (three click only) that only seems to occur if the car has sat for around an hour or longer. When started and put into gear and it starts to move, there is a metallic click that occurs right after the car starts to move. It come from the front. I try the dealership but no luck.
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If your experiencing a clicking noise coming from the lower right side of your driver seat, more noticeable over rough roads with pressure applied to the backrest, read on. After much trial and error troubleshooting, here's what worked for me.
I removed the tension on a small clock like spring located on the driver seat back right side pivot point. Since having done so, no more annoying clicking sound and I haven't noticed any difference or adverse side-effect in seat operation /adjustment. I've got photos....
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I have a 2010 Toyota Matrix with the 1.8L engine that has a battery drain that is causing it to click and have a hard time starting after it sits. The clicking is constant, and basically sounds like a dead battery, which it is.
Battery was taken out and tested on a bench at Pep Boys, came back 100%.
Checked my voltage at night after driving it and it was at 12.5 V, checked again in the morning and it was down to 9.6 V. I know I have a drain somewhere, and have read I may need to keep a jumper across the negative terminal to ground until the moment I hook up the multimeter to it to check for a power draw? Is this year/model known to have certain issues with parasitic drain?
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I get a creaking/clicking noise coming from my front wheels when braking at slow speed. can be rhythmic at times which makes be think it may be a ball joint or bearing.
Also it may be related or unrelated... Between 70-80km/h my front driver side wheel gives off a "Hum". I thought it may have been unbalanced wheels since it started when I put the summer rubber on, but the tire shop said they are balanced and thats not it. The Hum goes away when driving at any other speed.
Just last month I had my brakes done (a couple weeks prior to changing my rubber).
Front: New Rotors, Pads, Shims
Rear: Machined rotors, New Pads & Shims
Brake Flush Performed.
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Temp control is stuck, but when it reaches over 55 degrees or so, it goes back to normal. Have a very slight clicking sound/feel when it is normal. Toyota wants 10 hours labor up front.
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I just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
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There is an unbearable clicking sound coming from underneath the glovebox. Already tried removing blower motor to see if there were mouse droppings, paper bits anything -- it was clean. What this could be?
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I have the dreaded click-click-click noise when turning that is indicative of my CV joint going tits up. Checking it out the boot is split and there is some grease. So, I plan on going ahead and changing both sides drive axles out, since the Camry has 178k on it (yeah, 178k on a 2009.)
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I guess this would be covered by either power train warranty or certified warranty? I also have axle inner boot leakage. I am going in tomorrow for DSG and fuel filter, going to have them look at these issues...should be fun ... oh yeah and head gasket might show signs of leakage......
Detailed pics in link..... [URL] .....
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I had an accident with my 2007 Hyundai Azera 3.8 Limited at the driver's side a couple of weeks ago. The frame bent a little bit from the left side. Took it to body shop/mechanic and was straightened back. The mechanic advice me to change the CV axle on the left side due to the CV boot coming off the axle. We bought a used CV axle from the junkyard and everything was fine until 2 days later when I made a wide left trun and I heard a cracking noise.
Immediately, I pulled over and AGAIN the CV Boot from the CV axle has popped out of the axle again and up until now when i drive I hear a cracking noise when turning to the left. Even without checking the car again, the mechanic is still suggesting its the axle I bought that I should buy another one... We also changed the hub in the process....before this problem occurred...
Here is the picture of how it looks now...
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I have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
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So I want to disable the ABS on my Corolla. I was wondering if I could pull the fuse in my bonnet to disable the ABS and if I were to do so which fuse would I pull.
I think if I were to pull the fuse from the interior, the other car features that are tied into the fuse wouldn't work.
If I can't pull the fuse in the bonnet, what are the other ways I could disable ABS? I read that removing the relay is an option.
Also is there anything I should know if I were to reactivate ABS? For instance, would the ABS light be off when I presumably reactivate it or do I need to perform some extra steps to remove the ABS light?
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My 09 corolla has a whine at around 35-50 mph it does sound like its rpm related. When i let off the throttle it isn't as loud.
[URL] ....
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I was wondering would the 2.4 2az-fe fit in to my 1.8 corolla I want to get a bare block or blown engine and build it up and turbo it and then put it into my corolla. Would the 2.4 bolt up in place of the 1.8 and if so where I can get a bare block or a complete engine?
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I have a 2003 Ford F150, 4x4, and I recently installed torsion bar leveling keys, i did not notice before i put the keys on, but while parked level, wheels straight, my wheels stand awkward, the bottom sticks out while the top is kinda sucked in, when i took a closer look, my inner axle shaft boot on my passenger side is busted and slinging all the grease out, what is the solution?
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