So I bought and installed bc coilovers and my abs light and 2 other lights came on. I did accidently mess up one of the wires on the front left strut but it is not torn in half or anything just sliced into a little. I electrical taped it back together.
View 4 RepliesI just installed some 20mm wheel spacers. When I accelerate the car pulls to right!! Experienced this after installing spacers?? Could i have done something wrong??
View 4 RepliesToyota corolla 2013 automatic gear reverse lights don't work after I installed new stereo it's my fault i shorted 12v positive backup (reverse) light trigger camera stereo v12+ cable to ground while backup (gear R) in place. As a result reserve lights don't work beside gear indicator doesn't show on main screen. I can drive without problem but problem still intact.
I checked all fuses and they are all okay I need to identify problem or possible repair too I only find 2 fuses behind glove box i think they call "instrument panel" there are bunch of cable and underneath of cables there is only 2 rectangle shape fuses I could not see anything else, the other fuse box is in engine compartment i thoroughly tested each small fuses they are all okay is there anything else i forgot to check ?
I attached also instrument panel screen shot ....
What the problem is? still drive-able?
View 14 Replies2010 Corolla LE ... This started today, on the ride home from work. Mid 50 degrees, light rain, driving down straight road it started. Engine light also on. No mods in car. is this something the dealer has to se, or can I bring it to my own mechanic?
View 1 RepliesOne of my light bulbs for the rear license plate light is out.
what kind of light bulb I need to get?
So I was on my way home i was 2 miles away from my house and my abs light and e-brake light randomly go on. I got home and turned car off and back on and it was still there.
View 14 RepliesThis morning I started my car, which was parked on an incline, with the car in gear (manual tranny) without remembering that I had left the car in gear. So, when I started the car, it lurched forward when I took my foot off of the clutch pedal. No big deal. I started the car again, but now the check engine light and abs lights are on steady, and the VCS is blinking. The car drove normal all the way to work. When I got to work, I shut the car off and started it up again, but the 3 warning lights are still on.
Is there a re-set procedure for the lights that happens automatically, or do I have to have someone with a scan tool reset it?
Could there actually be something wrong with the car?
I noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.
I am trying to change the color of the light on my dash board and center console from the standard orange to a light blue color. I've tried searching the internet looking for any advice but I haven't come across anything for a 2009 Toyota corolla. I understand that some cars need to have the light bulbs soldered and some can you can change out a colored film. Which of these options applies to my car? If it's the light bulb change then what size and how many. Also, how to take out the instrumental cluster.
View 6 RepliesMy wife's 2009 Corolla S has 107,000 miles. Early on it developed a low idle and vibration while stopped at a light. It was idling about 600 rpm after it warmed up. It never stalled but occasionally vibrated. After doing some research I found some were having success cleaning the throttle body and throttle plate. I did that along with changing the spark plugs. At that time I disconnected the battery to reset the computer. She has put about 2,000 miles on it since then and it never idles below 800 rpm. The vibration hasn't been back either.
I believe it was the throttle body/ plate cleaning and disconnecting the battery that resets the computer that fixed it. The plugs still looked good at 105 K miles, but I had new ones so I put them in. I bought a can of Berryman b12 choke & carb cleaner and sprayed a little on the throttle body and plate and then sprayed some on a rag and wiped down the body and plate. It was quite dirty.
So I'm having a problem, which I'm pretty sure is the switch. The traction control light won't turn off no matter how many times I've pressed the button. The orange light is really annoying now and I need to get it fixed. What should I do?
View 1 RepliesIs there a way to adjust the dome light timer? I want it to stay on longer than it does.
View 1 RepliesSo basically I woke up one morning, was gonna go to work when I tried to start my corolla nothing happened...tried that couple of times and still nothing ....then couple tries later, you could hear the car try to start but then nothing happens. The check Engine light is on when I try to turn on car
The battery and such seems fine. And I don't recall having any problems before, now even the remote control for the key wont work for the car...
Lately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
View 1 RepliesWe just purchased a used 2010 LE model a couple weeks ago and for the first time actually drove it during the night. So I decided to check out how the fog lights look. Problem is, when I turned them on it didn't light up any of the road between the low beams and the front bumper of the car. In fact acted kind of acted as high beams. They are currently aimed higher than my low beams!!!
This doesn't seem right to me.
- Were the lights installed upside down?
- They should be lighting up the area on the road between my low beams and front bumper correct?
- Is it possible that they are able to be aimed that high if installed correctly?
Corolla has this code : B1801
When i erase it comes right back!
Open in (D) Squib Circuit. What to start looking for?
I just got an oil change, and my maintenance light is flashing when I start up. It has about 36 thousand miles on it. I don't know when the previous oil change was before the one I got two weeks ago.I have read about resetting the maintenance light, but this is my first car and I have only had it for about 8 months, so I don't want to ignore a potential issue here.
View 4 RepliesI just bought a used Toyota Corolla 2009 LE. I found that the indicators for Low engine oil pressure warning, Charging system warning, and Malfunction/Check Engine are on when the engine switch at "On" and goes off after engine is started. Is this normal or something is wrong with the car?
View 2 RepliesWoke up this morning and found a red light blinking by my shift knob. It was the passenger air bag. There was a lock on it. How come its doing that? My car is turned off. Could there be a problem with my air bag or was it just a code?
View 3 RepliesJust bought a XLE (currently have had the car for 2 weeks and a total of 275miles) and am experiencing a very strange rattle coming from the engine compartment when accelerating very lightly and engine being fully warm (being ran for atleast 15min). The rattle is coming during 2000-2300rpm. Below and above that range, the problem does not occur. The rattling noise sounds as if some metal is grinding on one another. I understand that the Dual VVT-i is notoriously known for it's noise (ticking/tapping of valves, naturally being a 4cyl, and a small amount of "roar" when applying large amount of throttle) but I think this problem I am exhibiting is by far, not normal.
Symptoms/Conditions:
1. Car must be hot/warm (must be driven for atleast 15 minutes)
2. Must be in a drive or reverse direction. Problem does not occur in park or neutral.
3. You have to be acclerating lightly, the engine rattle occurs from 2000rpm - 2300rpm. It's not a tapping or ticking sound but rather a "buzzing" metal to metal grinding.
4. Sounds like the sound is coming from the intake or exhaust systems and the rpm's is causing a natural vibration frequency that is causing a metal part to vibrate (or resonate). Could explain
5. The car doesn't seem to be power limited or anything abnormal. Drives just fine - just a rattling sound that I hate to believe is normal!
I'm under assumption that this is an engineering design flaw! I would encourage you as Toyota Corolla 2009 owners (1.8L, 4spd autos, manuals) to see if you can replicate this issue. Warm your car up, turn off heat/ac & radio (so you can clearly hear the engine), put it in drive, slowly excelerate, and listen as your rpm's increase (noise will only occur at 2000-2300rpm).