Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: 2ZR-FE 1.8L Engine Valve Cover Bolt Torque?
Jan 21, 2014
I looked around and couldn't find the specs for the valve cover bolts.. I'm assuming it'll be a pretty low torque like 20 ft-lbs.
This'll be the 2ZR-FE 1.8L engine.
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I am having trouble figuring out what a nut on my 2011 Corolla LE is called, so I am having alot of trouble looking up a solution on my own. There is a bolt above the oil filter and near a sensor that is leaking. I marked it in red in the below picture. I am having trouble looking up what to do without knowing enough about it to search.
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The transmission drain plug torque on a 2011 Corolla s, u341e transmission.
I have heard 36ft lbs, I just feel like that is a lot and want to confirm. Any horror stories on snapping these plugs? I'm planning to get new crush washers.
Any experience with just using a fluid extractor to do multiple drain and fills from the dipstick? I've heard the tubing can sometimes melt/break off, but was considering this route to not have to deal with snapping a drain plug.
Tried searching, tried checking my hanyes manual and my factory service manual I have in pdf, neither lists a torque, or at least that I can find.
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What is the ATF drain plug size and its torque spec?
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SO I was working on changing my spark plugs on my 66k 10; corolla. I was trying to remove the bolt(holds the cooldown), at first it was hard to wedge it, but slowly I was able to loose it up little by little. ALL the sudden the bolt made a snap noise, half of the bolt(head) came out with the ignition coil, the other half is still stuck in the whole.
I didn't attempt to change the spark plug or work on the other cylinder heads thinking all the bolts may snap off that holds the coil down. I drove my car around and the coil didn't move at all.
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I was changing my mom's oil at work today. I noticed her timing chain cover is leaking. Is this just an isolated occurrence? It seems to be right where the FIPG mates the timing cover to the cylinder head. It also seems right below the tensioner. However the tensioner is bone dry.
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I replaced the PCV valve (with OEM). The old one looked dirty, but still rattled when I shake it. However, now with the engine at idle, I can hear a metallic clicking coming from the area of the new PCV valve. It's difficult to verify, because it's behind the intake manifold, but since I just replaced the PCV valve, what else could it be? The clicking also seems to sync up with the engine cycling..
My corolla has been burning 2 quarts of oil every 5000 miles since 80k miles. It's at 100k now. I guess worst case is there's a broken valve seal and I'm getting high pressure in the crank case. I also heard it could be a vacuum leak. I'm going to try and check the vacuum pressure, but is there anything else that I should be looking for?
I rigged a gauge from a brake bleeder pump into a tee in the vacuum booster line and it ran pretty steady at 20Hg. Accelerated a little and it hit 25Hg and came back down. It flutters a little at around 1 Hg, but I'm wondering if my vacuum rig is a bit leaky itself.
Here's a recording of the clicking: [URL] ....
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I have an '09 with 138k miles on it, I was wondering where the PCV Valve is on the 10th gen, and how to remove it to either replace or clean it?
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I was loosening the bolt that holds down the number one spark plug wire when it just spun off leaving less than half the bolt in the valve cover. I tried using the grabbit extractor but that did not work.
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I have to replace the valve cover gasket this weekend.
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The bolt that holds the dipstick on the valve cover. i have tried for ever to get this thing off. soaked it , got a skinny wrench on the nut underneath but think it might be stripped (1/2 inch grinded out a little). going to try and get a set of skinny wrenches tomorrow , mine bent. tried vise grips on top of the bolt and put a box wrench on the nut , and gave it my all. The damn thing won't budge.
Also, any tips on the rest of the valve cover bolts. I had to remove some from inside the fender well but barely got to them. My question is not getting these out but getting them back in. And how the heck to you torque these things??? The bolt i mentioned above is creating problem, and I only have so much time
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Just got off the boat (offshore boat captain) and my wife has been using my truck while I was gone so it doesn't sit for forever. I made a quick trip to the hardware store for some materials and back to the house. Total drive time was about 20min. Noticed that I had a terrible shake like a weight got thrown off a wheel. When I got home and started looking at my tires I was on the passenger side front tire and noticed oil on the driveway. That's when I saw the drop.
Now I climbed under the truck and looked around and found oil all over the passenger header and starter and basically all down the passenger side of the motor. I popped the hood and and the valley was clean. Then I felt around the passenger valve cover and found a lower valve cover bolt missing. Second from rear on the bottom. My question after that long description is, can one missing bolt cause a leak bad enough to completely clean the oiled areas and start the truck and in about 1 min have clean oil dripping down? If so, when I get a bolt should I go ahead and replace the gasket?
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My 2000 f350 is leaking oil from a bolt on the passengers side valve cover. it is one of the bolts on top of the valve cover. Can I just remove the bolt and put a rubber washer under it or do I need a new valve cover?
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I just had my oil changed and was told that my rack and pinion was leaking also my valve cover leaked I had the gasket change about a year ago an the leak is so slight it wont even show up in my dip stick, is it possible the valve cover leak is getting on the rack boot. Also can I change just the boot car has 15000mi in great shape an well maintained.....
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I have a 2011 corolla. the engine just dont have any pep. is there a way to swap 1.8 for a 2.4 . is it worth the effort. or how can i get more pep without sinking lots into it.
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My uncle has a 1997 Corolla that has been sitting on his garage for about 2 years. We jump started the car and after a while recharging the battery, we saw fumes coming out from the engine. I then noticed that there was oil all over the front of the engine.. From what I have found in google it seems that this is a valve cover leak. How serious can these be? Are they easy to fix? because my uncle is thinking on calling the junkyard.
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I own a 2009 superwhite corolla xrs. I've owned the car now for several months . Ever since I got It, I've heard a noise coming from the engine bay . Sounds like a Metallic rattling .seems to do it in the cold and warm weather . I have a feeling that its the water pump . Every time I take it to the dealer it doesn't make the noise. It's makes the noise on a regular basis . Check out the video... ignore the dirty dash low fuel light... I was parked by a gas station i swear.
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My daughters 2009 will start right up but after about a second it shuts right off we tried it several times and it shuts right down.If you wait for 10 to 20 mins it starts and runs fine.
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My 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem. I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons. Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue. It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning". Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?
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My engine just went out in my 2009 Corolla XRS. What vehicles have the same engine as a 2009 Corolla XRS 2.4L manual transmission?
Also, what would it take to put in the 1.8L engine? Would it bolt straight up? Would I need a new ecu/wiring harness/mounts/exhaust/trans etc?
I am considering putting in a rebuilt or used transmission at the same time because my syncros were failing.
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A couple weeks ago, my check engine light popped on and I noticed my engine misfire. I happened to be driving by an autozone, so I pulled in and had them check the code. Came back as a misfire on cylinder 4, possibly bad ignition coil or clogged injector. I ran some techron for the next couple of gas tanks, didn't seem to do much, as I would still occasionally get the check engine light.
It has been getting more and more common for it to happen while driving since. Today on the way home from work, it misfired several times in a row and got so bad that I couldn't get above 40mph. This lasted for a minute or two, then cleared up and I made it home without a hitch. Took it back to autozone, same code..Cylinder 4 misfire, probably ignition coil or primary/secondary ignition b fault. I went ahead and bought an ignition coil, came back home and installed. Just took it for a test drive and now I've got the same issue.
I only replaced the one coil that has been throwing a code as misfiring. I did not also replace the spark plug on that cylinder.
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