Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: 2012 Toyota LE Whining Sound When Accelerator Pedal Slightly Engaged
Jul 30, 2015
I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
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The issue is I drove a few km's with the handbrake engaged in my moms 2nd gen matrix. I reasoned that it was showing me the exclamation mark and beeping to tell me the fuel was REALLY low, so I assumed it was going so hesitant to go to save gas...............
I drove a few km's slowly, and when I got to my street I stepped on the gas as a "hell yeah I made it", only to come out the car to see the rear brakes smoking all over the place.
Only about 20 minutes after I came home I realized what happened, (don't even ask what my reasoning for breaks smoking was this time) went and disengaged the handbrake, but now about 5 hours later I just saw my mom leaving in the car and there was a slight creaking sound coming from what seemed to be the rear.
Could the handbrake being engaged for another 20-30 minutes after the breaks getting so hot from all the friction potentially WELD the drums to the other part of the brakes? I hope I didn't mess up the wheels or the parts they are sitting on.
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This vibration with sound on my brake pedal started after i change my stock intake to takeda. Well, Not all the time this thing happen, only when im in this kind of situation:
Pressing and hold my brake pedal at full stop and the gear is set to Drive, then, when the RPM goes down to below 900, the vibration with sound started, and it only disappear when i release my brake or when the RPM goes up automatically.
But, this only happened with this kind of situation when my car already heated up (like driving it more than 10 mins) and the temperature is at stable level.
While my car is just started driving, or its not already heated up, no vibration is happening.
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Is this normal? You can hear the air coming out.
The reason I ask if it's normal is because it seems like I have to press my brake pedal halfway down before it engages. At least an inch or two. However I can still lock up the beaks. But it seems like they are not as sensitive. Takes a bit of travel to engage.
I've already bled the brakes too.
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2009 XRS ABS brakes .... I changed all four brake pads and flushed out most of the old brake fluid. Bled all four sides. But now while I am in idle (like waiting for a light to turn) my brake pedal is spongy and is making a hissing sound. All was good before I did this job.
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We got a lot of snow here in the last 72 hours and so driving on the roads has been a bit more slick than usual.
But last night I found a patch of snow that I thought I'd test my traction on (lots of room, nobody around, etc.) and while the ABS worked very effectively and I stopped with full control... I noticed my exterior lights dimmed a fair bit.
Is this a normal thing? Never seen that before.
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I recently took my 2010 Corolla CE to my dealership and had some minor work done on the brakes (rust cap cleaned, calipers machined as well)
The new problem now is that I hear a ticking sound while driving as if something is touching.. The Technician at Toyota said there was still 70% on the pads and 80% left on the rear shoes.. Encountered a ticking sound while driving along?
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I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE. When the A/C is first turned on, a strange, musty smell comes from the air vents. As the system cools, the smell changes slightly but never goes away. It has done this since shortly after I bought the vehicle. Dealer has checked cabin air filter and says it is OK.
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My son's 2010 Toyota Corolla S made a "rattling ticking sound at idle" twice this week.
I can't duplicate it, the oil level is fine and everything is working.
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I bought a new 2012 corolla a month ago and when the wiper is on the intermittent mode, the wipers make a click sound before it moves and then another click sound after it moves. I still can hear it half of the time with music on (only when the music Is quieter.
I listened to my friend's 2010 corolla and his car had a very faint click. I drove many other cars before and never had this sound. Is this a known sound for corolla?
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I just purchased a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE. The factory radio has a 'Phone' button on the right hand side of the radio. When I push the button, the display shows 'Unavailable.' What this button is for? With the Blu Logic kit, it has a separate phone button that mounts in the dash knockouts. Can the phone button on the radio be used instead?
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I own a 2010 Toyota Corolla S that I purchased with about 30k miles, I have put about 65k on it since purchasing it. When applying the brakes in dry conditions I am receiving what feels like the abs engaging and a loud pulsing sound/creaking sound. The brakes will pulsate as if I am stopping on snow or ice but no traction control or abs lights will not illuminate. This has been happening for a good while(ever since I purchased the car). I have replaced the front rotors and pads and the problem purists.
The road conditions in this video are completely dry with an outside temperature in the high 70's.... YouTube .....
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My 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem. I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons. Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue. It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning". Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?
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There is an unbearable clicking sound coming from underneath the glovebox. Already tried removing blower motor to see if there were mouse droppings, paper bits anything -- it was clean. What this could be?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Yaris with 35,000 miles, and fully up-to-date with all the 5,000-mile usual maintenance checks [no prior problems]. Driving on a hot day, I hit Bakersfield and the car started to make a high-pitched whining noise, which got louder with the accelerator and softer when I took my foot off the gas. I thought perhaps the car was overheating and let it rest for a while, and checked the coolant [which was at a normal level]. I finished the drive to LA and stopped by the Toyota dealer who said it must have just been the fan given the hot weather.
The noise went away overnight, but the next day I was driving around town when it was overcast and cool, and even driving locally, the car made the whining noise intermittently, especially loud at low speeds like coasting in a parking lot, and the noise has been getting louder and sounding more pathological--not like a normal engine or fan noise, but like a truly problematic high-pitched straining sound. Sometimes it comes on when I start the car, sometimes restarting the car makes the noise go away for an hour or two.
It sounds almost like an electric razor being whipped around like a numchuck - a hitch pitched whine that is rotating in the engine and speeds up with the accelerator and calms down but doesn't go away at a stoplight. Perhaps I finally ran over my neighbor's annoying kitty. But today's latest Toyota mechanic also couldn't figure it out because the noise didn't start when he turned on the car and didn't restart on his test drive, but only a few hours later after I'd driven the car around town.
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I have a Toyota Corolla Altis Cruisetronic Automatic transmission. Car has done only 4000 km and is 8 months old.
Problem I am having is that when I release the accelerator pedal say while driving at 60 kph, the car does not freely coast but decelerates with a drag and tries to slow down to a stop. The drag is more serious with the a/c on. It does not like to remain in high gear. Previous auto transmission Corrolla's I have driven never gave me this kind of problem.
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Car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
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A few weeks ago I started noticing what I would best describe as a whining noise when I accelerate. It's not very high-pitched but definitely noticeable. It seems the more I accelerate, the higher pitched the whine becomes, and I can only hear it when I am accelerating. It is not very loud: if I have the radio or stereo on I can't hear it. I have a 2009 Corolla LE with around 122k miles on it (I drive a lot for work.) A few weeks ago I had the car in for an oil change, and was told that my battery was getting low and will need to be replaced soon, so I'm not sure if that would have anything to do with it. As far as describing the specific location of where it is coming from, the best I can say is that it's coming from somewhere under the hood...I know that's a very vague description, but I can't really pinpoint it to anywhere beyond that.
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I've run into a very strange whining noise in the mornings on my 2010 Corolla S.
I've done some diagnosis and the issue only occurs when it gets chilly out (below about 50 degrees). When you go out to the car in the AM with things dead cold and turn the key into the run position before you start it the noise starts up right under the dash on what sounds like the passenger side. I've tried the fan on and off and it doesn't seem to affect it. It does seem to be lasting longer and it really sounds like a bad bearing in a small motor. As the car warms up the noise disappears and doesn't reappear unless it cools down all the way, which usually means it has to sit overnight.
It doesn't seem to affect how the car runs so I'm guessing it's not a primary system, likely something with climate control or AC?
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I have a 2008 Toyota Matrix with 56k miles on it. Recently it starting to make a whining sound when accelerating. It's very subtle, but kinda sounds like a plane taking off. It seems to go away once the car is moving/maintaining speed. I just got an oil change and the air filter replaced. Also, it seems to idle rougher than it used too, or I could just be paranoid.
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When I am driving holding the gas pedal and the rpm at about 1500-2000 rpm but when I release the gas pedal the rpm goes down maybe 500-750 rpm then back up.
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