Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: 2012 Manual Trans Stalls From Takeoff Way Too Easily
Jun 16, 2012
I have a 2012 Corolla CE (base model in Canada) that is completely stock. Took delivery in Dec 2011. Manual transmission. I am finding the car stalls from takeoff way too easily. Have had many manual trans cars before, and have experienced nothing like this.
Can be driving around town all day, no problem, then pulling away from a stop sign or light, and bam, I stall it. The clutch is a at a good peddle position - not too low, not too high.
Taking off on hills is a bit of a nightmare. Will stall easy there too. So I have to over-rev it to make sure I pull away from any stopped position. Passengers have noticed and said, "What are you doing! And I have to explain that if I don't over-rev from a takeoff, it may stall.
Case in point: at a car wash, aiming into the wheel slots to get into the track, at a very slow crawl in 1st and the car encountered resistance when the front tire rubbed the guide, and bam, it stalled.
After 7 months of driving this Corolla, I still can't get the hang of the clutch !! Does it sound like something is not set up correctly? What to check. Basically, it looks like I can't drive a standard.
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I have a 2010 LE with auto trans. This happens when I start the car first time in the day. I shift it to drive And it takes maybe 1.5 seconds to catch before I can drive it. Is this normal. Would a fluid change fix it?
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Just purchased a 2009 Matrix XRS Manual transmission with 67,000 miles on it. I can't get the VSC Off and Traction lights on the panel to go out.
During our test drive, I had turned the system on and off to make sure it was working, and didn't seem to have any trouble with it.
I went to have it inspected yesterday. During the test, they hook up to the ODBII port to check emissions. The tech had trouble getting it connected the first time, saying the connection was going in and out. Eventually, they were able to get it connected properly and passed the inspection.
After they pulled the car out of the bay, the VSC Off and Traction lights were solid on, and they have been every time I've started the car since. Checking the manual, all I should have to do to turn the system back on is press the traction button, but that doesn't seem to be working at all. I also tried holding it down for 30 seconds or so with no luck.
The lights aren't flashing, so I don't think this is an error, I'm wondering if the computer got confused somehow with the ODBII port issues.
Stuff I've tried:
1. Followed these instructions for the Highlander Hybrid thinking maybe Toyotas will generally do this. That just caused most of the lights to flash on the panel and didn't bring up any VSC diagnostic messages.
2. I pulled the panel from the dash out to check to make sure the button was working, and I do get connectivity between the two outside pins while the button is pushed in.
how to get this to reset, or what the problem might be?
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I have Corolla 1.6 dual VVTi (year - 2009.), manual transmission, 1ZR engine, for about a year, ~50000miles on clock. About a month ago from a engine part it began to produce sound that can be heard on the accompanying recordings.
for these sounds is characteristic that:
- can be heard only while driving and depressing a gas pedal, its not heard when I am changing rmps while the car is stationary..
-only when engine is warm
-from about 1900rpm to 3000rpm.
-Toyota service is not useful, they fail to locate the source of the sound.
I submit sound recordings that I made by placing a microphone in the motor department.
[URL] .....
What is causing this and is it dangerous to drive this car?
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How to disable the auto door locks but I have the opposite problem. Mine were not enabled and I would like them to be. Looking for instructions for enabling the auto door locks? 2010 s, no smart key, manual transmission.
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I have a 2010 Corolla. I am not sure what the problem is but the car shimmys and shakes when i slow down and almost stalls. Its not a brake issue but the brakes need to be replaced. The engine light comes on , stays on for 3 days then goes off then comes on again and there is sometimes a loss of power. I checked the coil packs but they are good . I'm wondering if it's a MAF sensor issue.
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I have a 2010 S with an auto trans and 68,000 miles. I've never replaced the fluid or filter. Over the last 10,000 miles or so, I've noticed the following in regards to shifting.
I will being on a merge ramp to the highway rolling along and waiting to pull out into the flow of traffic. I'll be traveling along at a constant speed, say 30 mph, with constant pressure on the throttle waiting for my opening in traffic. I will see my opening and floor it. That's when (sometimes) the car seems to get very confused. It doesn't shift back right away, it lingers in 3rd (or OD) and picks up a tiny bit of speed. Then, it hesitates with no acceleration, and then roughly shifts to 2nd or 1st. It feels more like it forces itself into gear and, once in gear, it accelerates like it should.
The biggest issue for me is that this whole process takes about 3 or 4 seconds. That's not very long, but when you're trying to merge onto the highway or cut into traffic, 3 seconds is the difference between being safe and a close call.
Transmission fluid appears to be full, is a nice red color, and doesn't smell burnt.
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2009 corolla le won't shift into park. Disconnected linkage and works good. Lever at trans moves smooth in every gear except park.
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While driving, idling, accelerating, or braking the engine of 2010 Toyota Corolla XRS (2.4L) will be running fine but then have a shudder, evening stalling at times.
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I have a 2012 Corolla S and I'm trying to install footwell LED lights that are wired to the dome light, which wires do I need to tap in order to make this happen and how do I tap them correctly/safely?
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My Mother just purchased a 2012 Corolla LE and this thing doesn't have the auto on/off for the headlights on the switch..
How to install the auto switch from a 2010 or if it will even fit and function?
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I was looking to lower my 2012 Corolla after seeing torres 16 running 18x10 all around on his car. I fell in love with his Corolla and have been craving to do something similar. Now here's the flip side. I am absolutely clueless about the in-and-outs of stance work or being "slammed". I was thinking running 18x10 all around is a bit too much and was looking to run 18x9.5 Grids - if I could find them new. I'd like to sit "flush." What offset would be recommended? From what I saw on wheeldude, they only come in +20 or +38. Would this be possible on BC coilovers? I'd like to achieve a look similar to Jzen 16 or torres 16. Would I be better off running an air suspension setup? The downfall is they get ridiculously costly.
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I am trying to change the oil on my dad's 2012 corolla LE, and this is the first oil change since it's been out of the 25k mile service plan. I ordered the exact 64mm 14 flute wrench and the filter housing WILL NOT unscrew. I have looked at several videos online and I am sure I'm going the right way. I have tried kicking it, hitting it with a rubber mallet... and nothing! My friend has a breaker bar we are gonna try to use in a little while... Is there any history of dealerships sabotaging this kind of thing so you have to bring it back?
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I now have 500 Miles on my LE. Driven soft Never over 2,500 rpm except, one time I accelerated to 4,500 RPM in first. Short 5 Mile trips.
Engine knock on start-up (Lasts one second)
sounds like a lifter pumping up.
Only happens occasionally.
Happened last night after driving 40 Miles and parking it for two hours.
Is this normal? I have noticed this since the first 10 Miles on the odometer. Figured it was the 0W-20 Oil.
My friend has a 2003 Echo with 100,000 miles and it does not do this.
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New owner of a used 2012 corolla. I only have one remote key. After digging through google and ebay. I brought a set of new remote keys with the known warning that I have to take it to the dealer for programming.
What tools to get to have this program by myself. It just cost too much over $150 from dealer just to program a key not counting over $250 dollar for the key itself.
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I have a 2012 corolla le and I'm looking into getting TRD lowering springs as I don't want to go too low and they work with the stock strut, however; I read that they work best with the XRS' shock and strut (might be just the strut but I'm not sure), my question is what are the XRS' struts called and where would I find them, also from what year would the XRS' struts fit on my le?
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I just got a 2012 LE. iPhone 4 5.01. Not having any luck adding any contacts to the radio via bluetooth.
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What Model Number Automatic Transmission does the 2012 LE have?
When was the first year they used this transmission?
Has this transmission been used in any other cars?
Does it have the reliability record Toyota is known for, or is it too early to tell?
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I have a 2012 Corolla. The key fob locks/unlocks all doors except the drivers door. I've read multiple forums saying its most likely the actuator in the drivers door, but the lock/unlock button on the door itself works just fine. This just seems weird to me. I'm really hoping it's not a complex electrical issue.
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I just used ArmorAll cleaning wipes on the dash of my 2012 corolla and as soon as it dried out I noticed black scratches (thin black lines) as if the gray paint came off. I don't know how is possible. Even if the wipes had a problem, I don't think dash paint should get scratched so easily.
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I recently bought a 2012 used Corolla LE from a dealer and i've noticed that when I drive at night the lights don't turn on automatically. They daylight running ones are one, but the actual headlights used for night-time use don't come on automatically. I'm able to turn the on automatically by just turning the switch, but I'm just curious why they aren't turning on automatically. I mean they're supposed to right, since its a standard feature nowadays?
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