Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: 2012 LE - Lights Not Turning On Automatically When Drive At Night?
Oct 17, 2012
I recently bought a 2012 used Corolla LE from a dealer and i've noticed that when I drive at night the lights don't turn on automatically. They daylight running ones are one, but the actual headlights used for night-time use don't come on automatically. I'm able to turn the on automatically by just turning the switch, but I'm just curious why they aren't turning on automatically. I mean they're supposed to right, since its a standard feature nowadays?
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I am very happy with my 2010 corolla, except for the annoying beeping. I live in a very quiet townhouse row and the cars are parked right in front of the houses. So, when I get up in the morning to get in the car, it beeps when I unlock it and on good weather days when the windows are open, there are at least 20 units that can hear it. It is very embarrassing. What is worse, randomly in the middle of the night, at 230 or 3am, it will beep five times quickly. My neighbors want to kill me! The engine light has been on for a few weeks because I am due for an oil change. Could it be related to that? And how do I turn this thing off?
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im looking for spacers on my xrs, and i want to know with STOCK suspension if i can put in wheel spacers and wont rub with stock rims and tires(17") and what are the maximum thickness i can use
second sound system! when i use my 6 speaker oem radio, the sound is automatically adjusted when going to max, meaning the bass goes down ect(with asl off) is there any way to prevent this? and i was thinking of going subs and 4channel amp, but i still want to use my steering wheel controls! is there any 2din(full facia) radio with ipod control/touch and steering wheel controls out there?and for speakers is there any problem switching out the tweeters?(for the rest i am quite good :P)
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My mechanic just informed me that because of my extreme drop, the drive shafts are at an angle that is stressing the final drive bearing on the transmission. I am leaking very small amount of fluid, he said it might not be a big deal.
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I just recently had an oil change yesterday to be exact. I have never looked at my RPM when I drive, but at every oil changes the dealer always does the "Multi-point inspections", of which I do not like since the tech may ruin something that's not broken or does not put something back together correctly and may cause problems down the road. Anyways, I usually drive at least 80 on the highway. Yesterday I drove home, and I noticed that around 70-75, the RPM was at 3, and a bit over at 80. I've driven other cars and the RPM is never over 3.
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I had a bud of mine make shims and gave me some negative camber in the back, and in the front, I maximized the camber bolt on my bc coils, this is per alignment stage. when I drive, the car feels a lil wobbly, is this normal? and will alignment fix the problem, or is this just part of the lowered/cambered life?
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My 09 corolla is running rough when idling in drive. It doesn't happen in park or neutral.
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Lately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
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I just recently picked myself up a 13' Corolla CE! Love it but have found some quirks that Im just wondering if this is normal with other 13' owners. Car has roughly 3000km on it so far.
-When I start the car, it almost sounds like my speakers 'pop' once I let off turning my ignition. Its not a extremely loud pop, but loud enough to make one think, "what the heck was that?" Have others had that issue
-Recently, its been a bit colder here (-3 Celsius). I have noticed it takes roughly 5 minutes of continued driving for the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature. Is that normal? Should it warm quicker than that? Its almost like the thermo is stuck slightly open.
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I have a 2011 corolla S. sometimes when i shift from park to drive, it shifts smoothly and easily. most of the time when I am shifting from park to drive, it isn't smooth and doesn't shift easy. You can hear when you move it from park.
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It was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
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I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
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I have a 2009 Corolla (smaller 4 cyl) with auto trans. at 101K miles. I have a whine at hwy speed when the drive line is unloaded. What I mean unloaded is there is no acceleration or deceleration. The whine does not change pitch or level with speed.
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My 2013 Corolla drove 10 minutes with heavy steering after starting. The slip indicator turned on and stays on after. Would OBD II show the problem? Can one read OBD II without scanner? How to turn off the slip indicator?
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When I drive my 2010 Toyota Corolla on a rough tar road, i feel dashboard vibration on the drivers side. The vibration is sensed in the instrument panel and also around the window. This happens if the tar road is rough or uneven. Is there anyway to remove the top of the dashboard and insulate it?
I live in sunny South Florida, so the heat makes the plastics in these corollas rattle or vibrate more, going over rough tar roads.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix S. There is a rattling noise coming from my engine compartment whenever i drive 60+ mph. It sounds like it's metal on metal. Nothing is loose inside. I took it to the dealer and they told me the water pump bearings were bad and replaced my whole water pump. That didn't resolve my problem. The rattling is still there.
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Have a 2010 Corolla, 42k miles, from a dead stop, turn left under power with wheel about 90% of one full turn, get a clunking popping clicking noise from the front end -- I cannot tell if from the left or right side -- I've been in the back seat too, and cannot determine if the noise is coming from the left or right side up front. I've had the car since 34k miles, has been making this sound ever since, not sure if its gotten worse, if it has, maybe just a little.
No noise if turning while NOT under power (coasting). No noise if turning to the right. No noise while driving in a straight line or veering left at a higher speed. Also, I tried to recreate this noise from a dead stop, turning going in reverse, both left and right, and no noise ever.
If in a parking lot, from a dead start, turn wheel left almost one full turn, accelerating slowly I can get the car to make this sound continuously (until I start going too fast beyond my comfort zone).
Have looked under car jacked up several times, nothing obvious. CV axles have minimal play and the boots are in great shape. Suspension parts appear ok.
My gut tells me could be a CV axle, but not certain, and I don't know which side..... something else that could cause this ?
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I performed brake maintenance today with my brother on my 2010 corolla CE, my front rotors were warped and my pads were used ( and also uneven) and I replaced both front rotors and pads.
The install went smoothly, my brother changed a couple of brakes sets and knew what he was doing and showed me up.
Took it for a spin, the brakes work very nicely ( i bought the ceramic wagner bundle ) but theres a slight grinding noise when driving, like the pads are touching and rubbing a bit too much on the rotor, but the driving is unnafected. Also, there's a sqealing noise coming from either side when you turn only.
Braking itself produces no noise whatsoever, only when you turn that it squeals.
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I have a 2012 Corolla S and I'm trying to install footwell LED lights that are wired to the dome light, which wires do I need to tap in order to make this happen and how do I tap them correctly/safely?
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My Mother just purchased a 2012 Corolla LE and this thing doesn't have the auto on/off for the headlights on the switch..
How to install the auto switch from a 2010 or if it will even fit and function?
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I was looking to lower my 2012 Corolla after seeing torres 16 running 18x10 all around on his car. I fell in love with his Corolla and have been craving to do something similar. Now here's the flip side. I am absolutely clueless about the in-and-outs of stance work or being "slammed". I was thinking running 18x10 all around is a bit too much and was looking to run 18x9.5 Grids - if I could find them new. I'd like to sit "flush." What offset would be recommended? From what I saw on wheeldude, they only come in +20 or +38. Would this be possible on BC coilovers? I'd like to achieve a look similar to Jzen 16 or torres 16. Would I be better off running an air suspension setup? The downfall is they get ridiculously costly.
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