I am getting a engine vibration on a new 2011 corolla LE. The vibration is right between 2000-3000 RPM. Also the muffler kinda sounds louder at that RPM. I have only 300 miles on this car ...
View 14 RepliesI have been noticing this Rotten egg/sulfur exhaust smell I have been getting for the past 2 months. So far it only happens when the engine hits 3000rpm or higher.
View 9 Replies2011 Corolla LE. Recently I upgraded the air intake, look at the picture
Shortly after that both me and my wife noticed that the brake pedal vibrates while car is In stop on lights. The vibration is only on the pedal and if you press it hard you suppress it. But when you feet is pressing light in the air it's very noticeable.
She also thinks that during above scenario RPMs go from about 1000k to 900 so are dropping. To be honest I did not notice that and not sure if this is normal or not. Other than that the car runs great and sounds much nicer bit loud but I like it.
I bought a used 2011 corolla from a dealer 15 days ago and found a leak at the bottom of the engine. It is not dripping but i can see "wet" area at the bottom of the engine...near the oil pressure switch. Is it possible that the switch is faulty or there could be other reason? Facing the front the leaks can be seen at the bottom of the either side of the engine. I have some images, but not sure how to share on this platform.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 Toyota Corolla S 5 speed manual and after 15000 miles I noticed a ticking noise in my engine bay and goes away once I push down on the clutch, but once I get off the clutch the noise comes back. Is this a normal thing or should I be concern? I have 75000 miles on my car now, is it covered through the extended manufacturer warranty coverage of 120000 miles?
View 4 RepliesRecently purchased my first Toyota, a 2012 Corolla S with 76,000 miles on the ODO. I have a concern about a front end rumbling.
First, the problem...
This "rumble" (the best way I can describe it) starts becoming noticeable around 20-25 mph, depending on the condition of the road I'm on (it could be lower, but I'm in Michigan, all the roads are bad here). This rumble isn't a noise, but more of a low frequency sensation that can be felt in the car and through the steering wheel, and vibrates the rear view mirror. The rumble comes and goes, it isn't constant. Sort of like driving over a rumble strips put on roads before stop signs/intersections, it seems to have an oscillation to it. The rumble intensifies very little with speed. It doesn't seem to oscillate any faster or rumble much harder, it's just there.
Things I've ruled out...
Brakes. When I bought the car, the first thing I noticed was that the front brake rotors were slightly warped, so I installed new rotors and good pads. That didn't get rid of the problem, though I didn't really expect it to.
Tires. The previous owner had seriously over-inflated these tires. Once taken down to their proper pressure, they were noticeably cupped down the middle. These tires were also horribly noisy would not balance, so brand new tires went on (Michelins). The new tires greatly improved the ride, reduced noise, and got rid of a lot of other shakes and vibrations, but the "rumble" remains.
Wheel Bearings. I'm not 100% on this one, but as far as I can tell, it's not the wheel bearings. I've taken the car out on twisty roads and there is no change in the rumble through hard turns, nor any additional vibrations of any kind. Usually bad wheel bearings will exhibit some noise or vibration when being loaded in a turn, but not in this case, so I've ruled them out.
Things I'm not sure about...
CV Joints. I've never had a CV joint go bad or fail on me, so I am unfamiliar with the common signs and symptoms. I have inspected the boots, and they appear to be in good condition and crack free, though that doesn't mean a joint isn't failing. There's no clicking during slow sharp turns, but I think that would only present itself if an outer joint was failing. I'm going to get the car in the air this weekend to do a drain and fill on the tranny (the fluid is getting pretty dark, so I want to get some new in there).
I drove a Ford Focus for the past 10 years and a Ford Contour for 10 years before that, putting over 200,000 miles on both, and never experienced any sort of problem like this.
My wife's 2009 Corolla S has 107,000 miles. Early on it developed a low idle and vibration while stopped at a light. It was idling about 600 rpm after it warmed up. It never stalled but occasionally vibrated. After doing some research I found some were having success cleaning the throttle body and throttle plate. I did that along with changing the spark plugs. At that time I disconnected the battery to reset the computer. She has put about 2,000 miles on it since then and it never idles below 800 rpm. The vibration hasn't been back either.
I believe it was the throttle body/ plate cleaning and disconnecting the battery that resets the computer that fixed it. The plugs still looked good at 105 K miles, but I had new ones so I put them in. I bought a can of Berryman b12 choke & carb cleaner and sprayed a little on the throttle body and plate and then sprayed some on a rag and wiped down the body and plate. It was quite dirty.
Basically when the car is in D and when i am stopped with the brakes pressed on at a stop sign or a red light, the car starts vibrating and i can see the the rpm going down and then receiving back up and going down again something when the car is in R. its a 2009 toyota corolla le 90k miles. when the headlights are on, the rpm stays high so the car does not vibrate or anything. other than this the car runs perfectly fine.
View 1 RepliesRecently, my 09 corolla S starts shaking during slow moving . As I accelerate more, it start vibrating at high frequency. And I can hear the sound "kin kin kni.." I checked the tires, they all look fine. It has 60k miles on.
View 2 RepliesWhere is the Air Filter? How do you access it? 2011 LE
View 4 RepliesI just got a 2011 corolla le with 45k miles and the gas millage is terrible. I have a 2005 acura rsx and I drive about 20 miles a day and I can go a whole month without refilling. I Put in half a tank in our corolla and only got 115 miles out of it. I drive the same way I do in my acura which Is pretty fuel efficient. My car tells me I am getting 27 mpg. But if I calculated correctly (115miles /7 gallons= about 1 8 mpg, my acura will get nearly twice that millage. What do you think I need to do. I've only put 500-1000 miles on it and not sure when the last tune up was. Should I take it to Toyota?
View 7 Repliesyear: 2009
miles: 80160
This usually happens when im on the highway i guess because im usually going over 50mph I hear like a loud humming and vibration and if I turn the steering wheel left or right it becomes unbearable, like deafening. What may cause this, im thinking maybe i need an alignment or wheel balancing or just new suspension.
2010 Corolla 1.8 automatic. Accelerating at highway speed (2800-3200) rpm a low frequency shudder/vibration is felt in the floorboards. Goes away of you let up off of gas pedal. No vibration at idle, runs fine all other times. Most noticeable when accelerating under load (ie going uphill) and at highway speed. Trans mount visually intact. Ditto engine mounts. Cv axles less than 1 year old no rattle upon shaking.
View 5 RepliesI think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
So when i hit ~80km/h (50 miles) some weird extremely small vibration is coming on. You cannot feel it from anywhere but when u touch something, like handbrake then its there. Tho the sound is kinda loud. So the pattern is like, 0.3 seconds it is vibrating and 0.3 is quiet, it does not matter on which road i drive.
This problem cannot be caused by wheels (got other alloys and same problem), also already got alignment and have balanced my wheels. So, what to do?
This vibration with sound on my brake pedal started after i change my stock intake to takeda. Well, Not all the time this thing happen, only when im in this kind of situation:
Pressing and hold my brake pedal at full stop and the gear is set to Drive, then, when the RPM goes down to below 900, the vibration with sound started, and it only disappear when i release my brake or when the RPM goes up automatically.
But, this only happened with this kind of situation when my car already heated up (like driving it more than 10 mins) and the temperature is at stable level.
While my car is just started driving, or its not already heated up, no vibration is happening.
So the grind in 3rd gear is getting pretty bad. I have to put it into third slowly and 4th sometimes grinds a bit. Could it be the slave or master cylinder?
View 8 RepliesWhen I drive my 2010 Toyota Corolla on a rough tar road, i feel dashboard vibration on the drivers side. The vibration is sensed in the instrument panel and also around the window. This happens if the tar road is rough or uneven. Is there anyway to remove the top of the dashboard and insulate it?
I live in sunny South Florida, so the heat makes the plastics in these corollas rattle or vibrate more, going over rough tar roads.
I have a 2010 Corolla LE. Sometimes I feel like the driver side mirror has a slight vibration when I drive.. Also, if I drive over a rough tar road with ripples on the road, there seems to be the driver side window vibration also..
View 1 RepliesSo my passenger front door is vibrating inside somewhere ... tho' it could be the door panel itself possibly !?
I've removed the door panel hoping to find something loose inside that is causing this buzzing. All the door panel's locating pins are intact and secure the panel as they should. In other words... The door panel secures as it should and nothing looks broken at it's attachment points.
The noise does not occur on a smooth road surface...and only occurs on rougher road. So I realize the vibration is being transmitted by road vibrations.
I can hear/feel a lite jolt from the tire's contact with the road's surface irregularities and if the road surface remains consistently rough ... that jolt turns into a buzzing drone type noise. Well ... at least until I hit a smooth road surface again. Then the buzzing subsides. No, it is not an electrical buzz/noise.
Sounds more like plastic vibrating against the door's inner surface... But I don't see a scuff mark or anything giving me a clue as to what it could be !?
I've thought of removing the door panel...then take a test drive without it installed. Just to be sure it is not the the window glass support/channels... door lock/lever mech. rod or loose wiring. But haven't done that as of yet. With the door panel removed... I don't see anything that looks loose or could be causing this rattle/buzzing noise ?
It's difficult to say exactly where this noise is transmitted from... but if I were to guess... I have to think it's possibly near center... around the arm rest area. I see behind that is only some wires coming from the window control unit. But I don't see how those could be culprit of this buzzing noise ?
My '10 is still under the 36K warranty...
Clear water comes into car my Corolla 2011 on drivers side and both the passenger and drivers rear floor panels. I checked and not coming from the body. Think it's from A/C but it's a lot of water. Front passenger side is bone dry. Looks like it may be coming from the center console and spreading out. Could the A/C evaporator drain be plugged. If so where do I find the hose?
View 11 Replies