Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: 2010 Differences Between The LE And S
Mar 26, 2013
Im new to this modification game but im very eager to get started. I have a 2010 LE and am kind of put off that a majority of parts seem to be made for the S model, the only differences I know between the LE and S is looks am I wrong? And are there any aftermarket Head Units with a screen that are reliable and not cheap looking or feeling? Also I haven't really seen a definite answer on whether coil overs or springs are better for a drop?
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The 2011+ corollas have an option to have a usb/line in jack for the radio which is by the time clock. I have a 2010 corolla with just the line in jack aux input. Can I get the usb/line in jack part from the 2011 corolla and hook it up the wire that was originally connected to the line in jack connector? Or do I need part PT233-47100?
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Been all over the internet and have tried over a half a dozen or so different methods for programing a key but none have worked for me. I have already gotten the key cut at a locksmith, I just need to program it successfully.
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I have bought a new key for my 2010 Corolla. But i can't seem to find a reliable source that has the process in order to sync my new key to my car. Does what the process is to sync my new key?
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I recently took my 2010 Toyota Corolla LE to the dealer for an oil change and also to resolve a trunk leak.
I guess when they tried to resolve the trunk leak their mechanic smeared some oil on the headliner. Whats the best way to remove the oil stains on the headliner?
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I have a 2010 corolla s 1.8 liter. A couple months I started having a rough idle. It will drop below 600 for a second right at the point of stopping and then raise back up. While sitting at a light it will drop down and shake and then go back up. Had a couple people look at it including Toyota and they say it's normal. It did not do it a couple months ago so I know it's not normal.
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My 2010 LE has been having this issue for a little while now. Whenever I start up the car when the engine is still warm, (an hour or two after initially driving it), the engine will sputter for around 3-4 seconds, but will always start up. On cold starts, like every morning, the car will start normally. There are no noticeable rpm problems while driving either.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S that I bought new. It has a manual transmission, 19k miles and I have not had any problems until recently. Let me start by saying I've been driving a manual for over 20 years so I know how to drive them.
That night, in 1st gear it rolled out of my driveway. My driveway has a mild incline that the car has been parked on for a year this way with no problems. When I went to pull it back on it gave me trouble starting as if the starter got stuck but did not engage with the motor. Once started I pulled it back on and noticed that every few seconds it rolls back a couple inches then stops and holds for 15-20 seconds then rolls again.
It does this until it finds a flat spot to land on. Everytime its parked on my driveway now it wont stay there. Now before you tell me to use the p-brake, which by the way is the dealerships solution, let me remind you that the car has been parked in this spot everyday for a year with NO issues until last week.
Since this started I've been using the p-beake but I want to know why its doing this all of a sudden.
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We have a 2010 corolla that lost its audio but comes back if you slam the door. Does not seem to be a problem with the HU. This is a factory unit. I am thinking it has an amp somewhere but I can not find where it is. I can beat on the radio itself with no results so I know the bad connection is not there.
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I have a corolla 2010 S and I think the blower is not working properly. It work in all speeds but in the max speed (4) you could hear and feel that the air flow varies. There is a little noise coming from the glove compartment. I already change the cabin air filter and still do it. I have to change the blower ?
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I have a 2010 Corolla S (5spd manual) with 51,xxx miles on it. I have noticed that when I start the engine the belt gives off a squeak and some times lasts a little longer than the last time... I have noticed that in colder weather the squeaking nose is noticeably louder and lasts longer. My father was speaking with a kid who has the same car as me and had the same problem. He informed my father that it was his water pump that was causing this to happen and he had it replaced under warranty by Toyota.
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There is one thing that i find weird, i hear a noise that sounds timed grr grr grr grr when the car is at idle. moreover, i hear this grr grr grr noise after the car has been driven for a while, when the engine is cold, I do not hear anything. also this timed grr grr grr noise is only heard from inside the car, but it is definitely coming from the engine area. the sound comes and goes, performance has not changed but the sound is really bothering me every time I stop at a light. i do not hear it while the car is in motion or while accelerating only at idle. Is this the water pump...
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2010 LE is having a brake squealing issue. The car only has 35,000 miles and the pads are at about 50% life left. I cleaned everything and lubed everything and they are still squealing. I would hate to have to replace the front brakes this early especially when the pads are only half worn. They are the factory pads and rotors btw.
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I had this issue a few times during summertime and now its winter. I have tried used STP Fuel Moisture Removal, but it seems to work a bit.
However this morning the same symptom happened again, crank the engine over in -4 Degrees *C Temperature. Engine fires but probably on two out of four pistons... rpm gauge is going up and down not stable.
I corrected this by shutting the engine off by turning the Key to position off. Then I cranked it a second time, and the same thing was happening.... sputtering.... I added a bit of throttle to get the Engine to work out the bad gas and or water in the fuel lines.
Question: Should I have let the engine idle or add the throttle to the engine?
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Basically, I think my Corolla isn't calculating the MPG correctly. I had to take my car for some major body repairs. When I got it back, most of my settings on the radio and speedometer were reset (time, radio's tremble and bass).
Anyway, before all this body work, it was at 27.7 MPG. My daily route changed. I used to go on a 13-15 mile commute 4-5 days a week. It wasn't a highway, but still a straight road with 4-5 stop lights. I would get 28 MPG, which I think is the max city average for my model.
Then after the change, it started going down. My routes were more quick (probably no more than 6 miles), but I still had the 4-5 stops basically. So I understand this slight drop in average MPG (28 to 27.7).
However, after the body work, the MPG average must have reset. B/c when I checked it, it was at 20 MPG. Which is very odd. I would have noticed if I was burning that much fuel. I don't think that is correct.
And I think the problem is that my average MPG will actually go down when I leave my car in park. So.... I tested it. I reset the MPG average. When I went to the store, I drove normally. I got 30 MPG (pretty straight road, 1-2 stops, 3 miles away). When I stopped and put it in park for a few minutes, I noticed it going down by 0.2 about every 15-20 seconds.
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We just purchased a used 2010 LE model a couple weeks ago and for the first time actually drove it during the night. So I decided to check out how the fog lights look. Problem is, when I turned them on it didn't light up any of the road between the low beams and the front bumper of the car. In fact acted kind of acted as high beams. They are currently aimed higher than my low beams!!!
This doesn't seem right to me.
- Were the lights installed upside down?
- They should be lighting up the area on the road between my low beams and front bumper correct?
- Is it possible that they are able to be aimed that high if installed correctly?
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I have a 2010 Corolla XRS that been flawless until today. This morning I moved my car in my yard, it was about a 20 second adventure and all was good. About 2 hours later, I went to use the car and it wouldn't start. Now it just starts then immediately dies. If I try and crank it over without turning off the ignition, it just cranks. If I turn off the ignition and try again, it starts, then dies again. This is 100% repeatable.
Battery posts and voltage are good. No OBDII codes. Fuses all look good.
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I do have an issue with a 2010 Toyota Corolla A/C. It is not blowing any cold air, just ambient air.
Try troubleshooting it by checking the freon on the low port. Reading was very high so it seems like the compressor clutch is not engaged. However, in reading up about 2010 version, I found there is actual no physical compressor clutch. There is also no "relay" to bypass such that you can engage the clutch. Reading further seems to indicate that it's a solenoid system, which I'm not familiar with.
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I have a 2010 Corolla LE with approx 63k miles. The problem I am having is when approaching about 45 mph, a slight rattle begins to make noise and it gets faster/louder as my speed increases. It is a noise that sounds like something is vibrating on the inside of the dash/in the engine bay. I have opened up the glove box and replaced the cabin air filter, and even drove around with the glove box dropped down to see if the noise is coming from the interior. It sounded the same with the glove box dropped down. I have done research with the service bulletins and even secured the washer hose suspecting that was the problem but it made no difference.
It is very frustrating to me because it does not seem to be affected by anything but speed. After hitting 45 mph it begins and will go away after going below 45. Changing any of the AC/blower knobs makes no difference. It does not seem to change the way the vehicle performs in any way either. Just an annoyance more than anything!
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So have this 2010 Corolla LE. Been really cold here last while, did not drive for 2 days. Local temperatures around -20C ... Anyways today went to start car after having plug to block heater for 3 hours. Car did not start.
Thinking ignition switch... When I turn key. All lights come on. as normal. but when to try to turn over, no response from engine at all. no engine noise or anything, just see oil light come on and clicking sound.
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It needs to be replaced. I have to have it done soon. I have never had this happen to any other vehicle, and am wondering if this is an issue with these vehicles?
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