Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: 2010 XRS Starts Then Immediately Dies
May 20, 2015
I have a 2010 Corolla XRS that been flawless until today. This morning I moved my car in my yard, it was about a 20 second adventure and all was good. About 2 hours later, I went to use the car and it wouldn't start. Now it just starts then immediately dies. If I try and crank it over without turning off the ignition, it just cranks. If I turn off the ignition and try again, it starts, then dies again. This is 100% repeatable.
Battery posts and voltage are good. No OBDII codes. Fuses all look good.
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I just got my '09 Corolla last night and it's doing something I'm not sure it is supposed to do. When I go out to my car I press the unlock button and open the door. A beeping noise starts immediately before the key is even in the ignition. When I do put the key in the beeping continues and does not stop until I close the door. The car I had before this was an '89 Corolla so I don't have any experience with these keyless entry things.
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I have a V6 with 162,000 miles. A year ago in the early spring we replaced the alternator, starter, fuel pump, lines, filter, dropped and cleaned the tank, fuel coils, repaired / replaced almost all injectors, spark plugs.Since April of last year, every few months my Car would have a hiccup of that it starts fine but would immediately die out. It would take anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes of trying to get it to start again. Other than that it would run beautifully. This week, while on the road it would jolt and die out. It happened 3 times. Yesterday morning it would once again crank fine and immediately die out. It will no longer keep running. We have not been able to keep my car started since then.
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I have a Corolla XLi 2010 (1.6) which from the moment I bought the car it had this problem with the AC (I bought it used and was informed about the issue so I got it with a good price).
The AC sometimes starts and sometimes it doesn't I thought it was just lacking of freon gas but wasn't that, and except this problem the second one is that sometimes it smells like mold coming from the AC. May be are related or maybe not, but I really want to resolve these issues asap.
I'm adding some more info, when the AC isn't working I don't hear the AC sound, and of course when it's working I hear the classic AC sound, and another "thingy" is that when I push the car around 120km/h the AC keeps working more , and also some times if isn't working and I hit the turbo increasing the RPM and making the car scream like a sport car , suddenly the AC starts (but I don't do thsi all the time) and it's just my impression of daily-use.
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It's a 2012 Corolla. I disconnected the battery and the 2 grounds where the fender mounts in the front. I did this to do some body repairs. When I reconnected everything, the car started, but immediately shut off. What is wrong? Is it a computer issue where it needs to relearn?
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I have a 2010 S with 70,000 miles. At 60,000 miles, just after the warranty ran out on me, I started to get a gear grinding noise for approximately one second immediately following a cold startup. It doesn't happen all the time, but I'd say once out of every eight starts on cold mornings after it's been sitting. I researched the issue pretty extensively and it seems to narrow down to the cam timing gear being the issue or a bad starter relay. The 2009's had a TSB for the issue being a cam timing gear, but the dealer assures me that my vehicle is not one of the ones covered by the TSB.
I'm inclined to try the relay fix, since a new relay is only $60. The thing is, I would hate to install the part and find out that the issue remains and then be out $60. Any identical relay elsewhere in the car that I can swap it with to see if that work. Of course, if the relay is bad, I'd be breaking something else possibly. Or, even better, is there a way to test the relay to see if is the cause of the problem?
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My car refused to start after being in the driveway for about 2 days, the battery seems to be fine, the electronics are working, and the gas tank is full. The car seems like its trying to start and when you twist the key but after a seconds just sputters out. I checked under the hood, on the battery terminals there is some sort of red sticky buildup...
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It is very cold here today about 10F. I started my 2009 Corolla about half hour ago just to make sure it would start. Started fine let it run at fast idle for awhile and shut it off. Went back out to start it again to head out and it will only run very briefly, maybe 1 second or so and then cuts off. It will continue to do that but will start and run normally. I tried for about 10 minutes but didn't want to run down the battery. I hope it is just the cold weather.
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I posted a few weeks ago about the 2009 Corolla XE that I purchased from a Toyota dealer with 95,500 miles. Within days a buying the car it began to make a brief loud rattle on cold starts. People on this forum directed me to the VVT and they were right on. The car came with a 60 day warranty so they replaced the timing gear at no cost to me problem solved.
Now several weeks later, last night when I got out of the car with the engine running I heard a pretty loud noise that sounded like one valve very out of adjustment. This morning when I started the car the noise was no longer there but when I checked the oil it was a quart low. I have put about 1800 miles on the car since I bought it and the oil was changed at the dealer right before I bought it. I thought it being low on oil might be causing the noise. I took the car to the dealer and explained everything, the put a quart of oil in it and said to bring it back in about 1000 miles to check it out.
When I got back home the noise was there again so I guess being low on oil wasn't the cause. In terms of oil consumption the service rep said Toyota considers up to 1.1 quarts per 1200 miles to be normal oil consumption. This sounds like a lot to me.
And in terms of the noise that sounds like a loose valve I'm beginning to think it had something to do with the work they did to replace the timing gear. What would make this noise come and go? Doesn't seem to be any relationship to operating temp or how long the engine has been running.
So I guess I have two problems, potentially an oil consumption problem and a intermittent loud noise that I don't like the sound of. My power train warranty expires Nov 19.
And do the valves on 2009 are adjustable, the service rep said they were auto adjust?
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This issue has been happening for a few weeks now since it has been around -10C here. When I start the car it starts just fine but then the starter grinds against the flywheel (same as if you tried to start while car already on). I did a quick search and found that the relay may be faulty, Car is at 87000 kms.
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I'm going to preface this by saying I've already had the immobilizer problem and I know about the light on the dash of the car + key flashing when you try to start the car without the immobilizer chip in the key fob.
My car has been running completely fine, I go out to start it, it fires up then immediately dies. If I hit the throttle while it starts up it will rev up but still dies even if I hold the throttle all the way open. After doing some research I was pointed to crank position sensor. Bought a new one, didn't change anything.
The strange thing about it is ever once in a while I can get it to start up and then it will run for as long as I let it, so its obviously getting air, fuel, and spark. I have also disconnected the battery and left it for a few hours, didn't work either.
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1999 4-runner 6-cylinder. starts and then immediately dies.
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I have a 1961 International Scout 80. I picked it up about a month ago and have been working on it ever since. It has been running a little rough but ok. Carb definitely could use at least a cleaning. Recent history is as follows...Brought home a month ago. replaced clutch hydraulics and rebuilt rear brakes 3 weeks ago. Began rewiring 2 weeks ago including removing dash, choke and throttle cables.
Completed rewiring of engine and lights and most of dash. Some wires are still left open. Since replacing the clutch hydraulics I have been starting it up every few days to drive from a parking space, about 100 ft, to the garage. 2 days ago after finishing working for the night I drove and parked it. The next morning it will not run. It starts and then immediately dies. I know there is a number of things it could be I just don't know the best way to go about diagnosing the issue.
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I have a 1991 Chevy Cavalier. It usually runs fine, but recently the weather has been colder and it is having issues when I start it in the morning. Granted, I live in Florida so "cold" is only in the 40s. The car will start, but then it immediately dies. I had taken to a mechanic (a family friend) and he said that it was fine the whole time he had it and didn't recommend any repairs. It was running fine for about 2 weeks and now it is doing it again. It does appear to only be doing this when it is cold out, because the issue began when we got our first cold snap.
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When I try to crank the truck , it starts and immediately dies. This happened several times. The last attempt I began patting the accelerator when I turned the key. The truck cranked and I was able to keep it running by feathering the throttle. it ran rough. At higher RPM it ran ok. When I let it idle it idled rough. After engine warmed it idles and runs fine. Engine started without trouble when warm.
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Have a 2004 6.0 that stalled out while driving. Wouldn't restart. Took readings this morning. ICP was very low (below 100) and IPR was at 85. After a few times of taking readings I could get the truck to start up with an ICP reading over 500 but IPR was still at 85. When it did start up it would almost immediately die. Does this sound like an IPR problem or a oil pressure problem?
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Im new to this modification game but im very eager to get started. I have a 2010 LE and am kind of put off that a majority of parts seem to be made for the S model, the only differences I know between the LE and S is looks am I wrong? And are there any aftermarket Head Units with a screen that are reliable and not cheap looking or feeling? Also I haven't really seen a definite answer on whether coil overs or springs are better for a drop?
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The 2011+ corollas have an option to have a usb/line in jack for the radio which is by the time clock. I have a 2010 corolla with just the line in jack aux input. Can I get the usb/line in jack part from the 2011 corolla and hook it up the wire that was originally connected to the line in jack connector? Or do I need part PT233-47100?
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Been all over the internet and have tried over a half a dozen or so different methods for programing a key but none have worked for me. I have already gotten the key cut at a locksmith, I just need to program it successfully.
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I have bought a new key for my 2010 Corolla. But i can't seem to find a reliable source that has the process in order to sync my new key to my car. Does what the process is to sync my new key?
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I recently took my 2010 Toyota Corolla LE to the dealer for an oil change and also to resolve a trunk leak.
I guess when they tried to resolve the trunk leak their mechanic smeared some oil on the headliner. Whats the best way to remove the oil stains on the headliner?
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