There is an unbearable clicking sound coming from underneath the glovebox. Already tried removing blower motor to see if there were mouse droppings, paper bits anything -- it was clean. What this could be?
View 1 RepliesMy 2010 toyota corolla LE headliner makes a clicking sound in the back. This usually happens when I go over a rough road.
View 4 RepliesI recently bought a 09 corolla le and when the car is at 55-70 mph and probably other times too, a clicking sound starts. It sounds like a relay picking up and dropping out. So at this speed if I lift my foot it stops or decreases in frequency. When I press accelerator it increases in frequency.
It sounds like it is coming from passenger kick panel or behind glove box. I looked behind kick panel and did not see any relays. I could've over looked it.
There's a lot going on behind the glove box but didn't really see many if any relays. One thing that got my attention was a white cube with what may be a red led at the top of the dash behind the glove box. I also have not taken the time to drive and investigate.
Temp control is stuck, but when it reaches over 55 degrees or so, it goes back to normal. Have a very slight clicking sound/feel when it is normal. Toyota wants 10 hours labor up front.
View 1 RepliesSo today I'm out running errands. Its hot and the ac is on. I notice water is coming out from underneath the dashboard on the passenger side. I pull the floor mat and water is everywhere. Soaked!! Ok so the ac water that's supposed to drip outside and underneath the car is now dripping inside the car. I pull off all the plastic crap, glove box to see if I can tell where its coming from. Not seeing it. Also some crap must have gotten wet because my check engine light is on along with a flashing vsr off light.
View 6 RepliesI recently took my 2010 Corolla CE to my dealership and had some minor work done on the brakes (rust cap cleaned, calipers machined as well)
The new problem now is that I hear a ticking sound while driving as if something is touching.. The Technician at Toyota said there was still 70% on the pads and 80% left on the rear shoes.. Encountered a ticking sound while driving along?
My son's 2010 Toyota Corolla S made a "rattling ticking sound at idle" twice this week.
I can't duplicate it, the oil level is fine and everything is working.
I own a 2010 Toyota Corolla S that I purchased with about 30k miles, I have put about 65k on it since purchasing it. When applying the brakes in dry conditions I am receiving what feels like the abs engaging and a loud pulsing sound/creaking sound. The brakes will pulsate as if I am stopping on snow or ice but no traction control or abs lights will not illuminate. This has been happening for a good while(ever since I purchased the car). I have replaced the front rotors and pads and the problem purists.
The road conditions in this video are completely dry with an outside temperature in the high 70's.... YouTube .....
I bought a brand new 2013 Corolla S just 10 days ago. Everything seemed to be working great and I was really enjoying my car, until yesterday when we had a slight drizzle. I put my wipers into intermittent mode, and immediately noticed an audible "click" sound similar to that of the turn signals.
I was quite freaked out at first, so after parking my car I investigated a bit and found the noise was coming from the dash rather than from the wipers. After a few hours of digging around on the Internet, I'm 95% certain it's coming from the wiper relay, and that this is supposed to be "normal".
This is bugging the hell out of me, so my question is, if you can replace just the wiper relay, or would you have to replace the entire stalk/motor assembly? At this point I actually don't mind shelving out $200 if it means I can get some peace of mind, literally.
Which reminds me, if say you could get an OEM (or an ever better aftermarket) wiper relay, and you went to a mechanic to have it installed, would that void the warranty?
I understand there's variations and tolerances exist in manufacturing, but you'd think Toyota would've gotten something as simple as a wiper relay figured out! The 2013 Corolla S I rented for 3 months never had this issue, nor did my mom's 2005 Corolla, or my dad's 2011 RAV4. So why my car?
I have seen a lot of threads about air coming from the glove box, I have the same problem. So I open up the glove box and see directly above the cabin filter there are three openings that should be covered with a mesh material. This material has broken and fallen off completely. What is the reason why I couldn't just tape them up, does the material have to be porous?
View 7 RepliesIf your experiencing a clicking noise coming from the lower right side of your driver seat, more noticeable over rough roads with pressure applied to the backrest, read on. After much trial and error troubleshooting, here's what worked for me.
I removed the tension on a small clock like spring located on the driver seat back right side pivot point. Since having done so, no more annoying clicking sound and I haven't noticed any difference or adverse side-effect in seat operation /adjustment. I've got photos....
I just purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla with Airbag Light ON (not blinking). Yes car was in an accident, but Air Bags did not deployed as per the seller. It needs to re-calibrate by Dealer.
As a novice, and avid Toyota person, since it's a good deal I decided to take the car with the airbag lights on. I have seen on youtube, the cause is likely the spiral cable.
I have had an intermittent problem with my 2010 Toyota Corolla S Manual for awhile now. The vehicle has about 27k on it and I am the only owner.
This problem began a few years back where I would get in the car and crank it and the car would take longer than normal to start. It would usually chug a bit and then start so I wasn't too concerned at this point. Yesterday I had to crank on it 4 times stopping for 1 minute between cranks and the engine finally started and then chugged hard for a good 5 seconds or so.... I was reading that the previous models had a problem with the ECU documented here.
[URL] .....
This does not seem to apply to my vehicle although the problem seems dead on. I don't suspect battery. The car cranks hard.... Obviously it can't be the starter. I really doubt it's the fuel pump doing this. I'm going to guess ECU, injector, some funky electrical issue.
I bought this car brand new from the dealer with 2 miles on it and I can't think of anything werid that has happened to the vehicle. Before anybody says cold weather is a factor.... It was almost 40 when I cranked on my car yesterday so I doubt that is it. Also I started the car in much colder conditions. The car did sit for a week before this happened... I can't remember if the car sat for a long period of time before the other starting issues happened. I'm planning on taking the car to the dealership soon, I'm in the process of moving so I can't be without a car right now.
While driving, idling, accelerating, or braking the engine of 2010 Toyota Corolla XRS (2.4L) will be running fine but then have a shudder, evening stalling at times.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE. When the A/C is first turned on, a strange, musty smell comes from the air vents. As the system cools, the smell changes slightly but never goes away. It has done this since shortly after I bought the vehicle. Dealer has checked cabin air filter and says it is OK.
View 5 RepliesThe problem is an audible surging sound coming from the engine. It's only after driving for a while.
My girl friend told me she heard a revving or surging and I thought it might be an idle surge, IACV or FITV but the RPMs aren't moving or bouncing at all. It has no effect on drive ability or anything else, that we know of. It's just an odd sound. Thought it might be an alternator or belt but I'm no professional..
I drive a 2010 Toyota Corolla, 1.8L vehicle. We recently went on vacation to Colorado and somewhere around Fairplay, CO, which is about 9500 feet above sea level, our relatively new car with only about 47K just died in the middle of the road where there was not shoulder or cell phone service. I pulled over the best I could and popped the hood after several attempts to restart to no avail. I removed the decorative plastic engine cover and looked at it long enough to realize I did not know anything to do or try, reinstalled the cover and closed the hood. I was then able to restart the car and go a little further.
It did happen to us one more time and again after a few minutes on the side of the road with the hood open I was able to start it. I was very surprised that there was no check engine light when I was able to restart the car. I would expect if the engine just dies in the middle of driving that it would at least produce a code where I could have some idea of what was going on. I have read about vapor lock, but it sounds like it is more likely to happen on older cars with a carburetor and with the fuel pump under the hood instead of in the fuel tank. Should I try higher octane fuel?
My 2010 Toyota Corolla caught fire IN THE RAIN yesterday ( Jan 9, 2014) while I was driving ..... I was lucky to get out of the car before the fire came in the passenger compartment.... Trying to find out a way to see if this has happened to other Toyotas....
View 14 RepliesI have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
The issue is I drove a few km's with the handbrake engaged in my moms 2nd gen matrix. I reasoned that it was showing me the exclamation mark and beeping to tell me the fuel was REALLY low, so I assumed it was going so hesitant to go to save gas...............
I drove a few km's slowly, and when I got to my street I stepped on the gas as a "hell yeah I made it", only to come out the car to see the rear brakes smoking all over the place.
Only about 20 minutes after I came home I realized what happened, (don't even ask what my reasoning for breaks smoking was this time) went and disengaged the handbrake, but now about 5 hours later I just saw my mom leaving in the car and there was a slight creaking sound coming from what seemed to be the rear.
Could the handbrake being engaged for another 20-30 minutes after the breaks getting so hot from all the friction potentially WELD the drums to the other part of the brakes? I hope I didn't mess up the wheels or the parts they are sitting on.
I don't expect many people to still be running OEM radios, but having issues with the stock radio? My girlfriend left town yesterday, and on the 3 hour drive, she said her radio just shuts off. Sometimes, when its on, the volume controls wont work, etc. W the model number for the stock 2010 Toyota Corolla S touch screen OEM stereo?
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