Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: 2010 - Should Have Auto Transmission Service At 54,000 Miles?
Oct 19, 2013
I have a 2010 corolla le with approx 54k miles. Should I have the trans serviced/flushed? Can I just do a drain and refill? Is it true that replacing the fluid will cause the trans to fail later on?
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I have a 2010 LE with auto trans. This happens when I start the car first time in the day. I shift it to drive And it takes maybe 1.5 seconds to catch before I can drive it. Is this normal. Would a fluid change fix it?
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I have 2009 Corolla XRS 5 speed automatic. I have 10,500 miles on it and I have had this transmission issue since I got the car. At times, while accelerating onto highways the car does not downshift. The car stays in 3rd gear up until 4,000 RPM. I can shift it by putting it in sport mode and shifting manually. It only does it sometimes but it does not seem normal.
Took it for my 1st service visit dealer said no codes came up on the computer and maybe it needed to be broken in. Went for 2nd service dealer told me no codes and no problems. I then wrote a letter to Toyota under the lemon law since it had 2 failed attempts at fixing it. They contacted me and said this may be normal. I do not see how it is normal.
Is it because it is a four cylinder that it has these problems? Usually it shifts correctly but I feel there is a defect but they said the computer would have codes stating problems and it does not.
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How to disable the auto door locks but I have the opposite problem. Mine were not enabled and I would like them to be. Looking for instructions for enabling the auto door locks? 2010 s, no smart key, manual transmission.
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We have a 2009 Matrix, 68000 miles. automatic transmission has a loud clunk when down shifting on a hill. Has only happened a few times and cant seem to make it happen. Am really concerned what this might be.
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2010 LE is having a brake squealing issue. The car only has 35,000 miles and the pads are at about 50% life left. I cleaned everything and lubed everything and they are still squealing. I would hate to have to replace the front brakes this early especially when the pads are only half worn. They are the factory pads and rotors btw.
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Why does the automatic transmission stay in 3rd gear and not shift into overdrive until it gets warmed up? It is so annoying. This is the only car that has ever done this. Even the camry I don't think does this. Especially the fact that the rpms stay above 1k rpm until the engine is warmed up.
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I have a 2010 S with an auto trans and 68,000 miles. I've never replaced the fluid or filter. Over the last 10,000 miles or so, I've noticed the following in regards to shifting.
I will being on a merge ramp to the highway rolling along and waiting to pull out into the flow of traffic. I'll be traveling along at a constant speed, say 30 mph, with constant pressure on the throttle waiting for my opening in traffic. I will see my opening and floor it. That's when (sometimes) the car seems to get very confused. It doesn't shift back right away, it lingers in 3rd (or OD) and picks up a tiny bit of speed. Then, it hesitates with no acceleration, and then roughly shifts to 2nd or 1st. It feels more like it forces itself into gear and, once in gear, it accelerates like it should.
The biggest issue for me is that this whole process takes about 3 or 4 seconds. That's not very long, but when you're trying to merge onto the highway or cut into traffic, 3 seconds is the difference between being safe and a close call.
Transmission fluid appears to be full, is a nice red color, and doesn't smell burnt.
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I recently purchased a new 2010 Toyota Corolla LE auto and I really like it. I have about 2000 miles on it now and just recently noticed a faint gear whine coming from the transmission at around 60 mph. You can only hear it when the radio is off and you really listen for it during the acceleration. It only does it when transmission fluid is fully warmed up after driving for about 15 miles. 2010 corolla uses U341E transmission that specifies Toyota WS transmission fluid. I noticed that 2001 - 2005 Supra uses the same transmission but it requires T-IV fluid which has more viscosity than WS. Noticed this faint gear whine on this car or do I need to take it to the dealer? My other car 2003 Toyota Echo uses U340E transmission and it has gear whine as well, except it is more pronounced than in Corolla, so I an trying to figure out if this is normal for this transmission or not.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S with automatic transmission. Today it started giving a push or a jerk when the 1st gear drops, so from 1st going to 2nd it pushes or jerks the car ahead. Not sure what is wrong with it, it has 56000 miles on it.
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Is this behavior normal: I test drove a 2010 corolla LE with 4-spd auto, 41K miles. Noticed that on level highway 60 mph that whenever I eased up on the gas that the RPMs would shoot down. Vehicle speed was barely decelerating since I was on level. As soon as gas reapplied (gently), then the RPMs would shoot up. I'm guessing the delta was like 300 RPM. I get the impression that at highway speeds the car is mostly in 3rd gear or shifting up and down a lot. I've read a lot about a TSB for 2011 corollas but nothing for 2010. And I think that problem is different. So my question is whether this is "normal" for driving at highway speeds?
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Alright 2009 Corolla S 1.8L. 80k miles, 5 years old.
I just decided to start doing the service myself on my gf's Corolla. Switched to Mobil 1 0w20. Did oil and filter. Also, the battery had a lot of corrosion on the positive terminal so my dad unexpectedly poured a little coke on it and wiped it down.
That was two weeks ago. The car has started to take longer and longer to start. Like the battery is going dead. Did the switch to synthetic or coke on battery terminal make any changes to starting or is it just a really big coincidence. Oil level still good.
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My Mother just purchased a 2012 Corolla LE and this thing doesn't have the auto on/off for the headlights on the switch..
How to install the auto switch from a 2010 or if it will even fit and function?
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My 09 matrix is using about 3 quarts of oil every 5000 miles. I bought the car new and it has 114,000 miles on it. I don't notice any smoke or leaks anywhere.
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Don't the stock brake pads go for more than 12k miles? The brakes are squeaking when I first pull out of my driveway and after a while it goes away, but at lower speeds (stop and go traffic) they still squeal a little bit, but when I am braking at higher speeds I don't hear anything. about a year ago my friend drove my car with the E-Brake up for about a mile. Could it be that because my rear drums are worn that my front brakes are getting worked more? But when I pull my E-brake up it still works fine without going up too much.
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My '09 Corolla (1.8L) still burns about a quart of oil per 2000 miles. This is after the reflash as well.. I am using 5w-20 synthetic at the moment.
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I got my 2011 S Corolla brand new and it's been great thus far. To make things a little more exciting, I got a manual. The last manual I had was my 2006 325i so it's been a little while.
Over the past few weeks, both my wife and I are experiencing quite a bit of clutch shudder or chatter and are finding it more and more difficult to engage the clutch without completely shaking the car. We've noticed this the longer the car is driven. On cold starts it doesn't happen. I've read some horror stories of the tranny going out, a weak transmission mount, or a warped flywheel in these Corollas. We bought this car because it's supposed to be reliable and get good mileage. Also, I'm still under the powertrain warranty but I'm not sure if they'll cover the clutch.
I have not checked the transmission fluid yet either. I can really use some suggestions. I had a 318is for over 100,000 miles and never put a new clutch in it!!! I'm getting frustrated.
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just got my new 2012 Corolla S AUTOMATIC and want to see if this knob will fit my shifter. Any tips on removing the OEM auto shift knob? URL...
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I have a toyota corolla 2011 and I dont remember when window auto down stopped working or if it worked at all. I never disconnected the battery, not sure about if the dealer has done it after I took it for service before. Or maybe the auto down is fake?
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Is it possible to reset or shut off the auto door locks?
When I use my use my factory remote to unlock the doors it usually locks itself within one second. If it don't time it right I'm pressing that button repeatedly trying to open the door. This is such a pain and it's annoying. Sometimes when I go to open the door so that I can exit the vehicle it locks itself midway me opening the door so that I'm stuck.
I called the dealer and shocker they want me to come in so that I can get screwed. There must be a way to just reset or reprogram this.
I have searched I have seen threads concerning the locking when you shift out of park. I am asking about just locking and unlocking the car.
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Is there a way to disable to auto lock on these cars? When I put my car in park it unlocks it for me. Locking it is kinda cool, but not unlocking it. I had a situation a few days ago where I was sitting in a parking lot waiting for my girlfriend to get out of the store when a guy opened my door and tried to get in. He realized that he opened the wrong car door. I really do not want this type of situation to happen again due to the fact that I carry every single day. So, is there a way to disable the auto-lock "safety feature".
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