I bought my 2010 Corolla 5 years ago with 17,000 miles on it. Since then I've put on about another 46,000. With 63,000 miles it needs it's 4th set of rotors due to brake pulse and shudder. We live in the prairie and I'm not hard on brakes. The brakes have never felt like my 05 Corolla.
Can this be caused by too aggressive of brake pads?
i have a 2010 Corolla XRS and was wondering the following:
-How good are ceramic brake pads?
-Do they last longer than normal OEM pads?....under normal driving.
I was considering buying a complete set of drilled rotors and ceramic pads for my car.
when I'm slowly accelerating from a stop there's a repetitive metallic ticking sound from 1st-2nd gear and it goes away after it changes to 3rd. I drive an automatic with 15k miles btw. It comes and goes but when I have a heavy foot off the line, the ticking goes away.
View 14 RepliesI changed out the brake pads, now it is making a hissing noise. I bled all the brakes starting from the back. Here is the video : [URL] .....
View 2 RepliesI performed brake maintenance today with my brother on my 2010 corolla CE, my front rotors were warped and my pads were used ( and also uneven) and I replaced both front rotors and pads.
The install went smoothly, my brother changed a couple of brakes sets and knew what he was doing and showed me up.
Took it for a spin, the brakes work very nicely ( i bought the ceramic wagner bundle ) but theres a slight grinding noise when driving, like the pads are touching and rubbing a bit too much on the rotor, but the driving is unnafected. Also, there's a sqealing noise coming from either side when you turn only.
Braking itself produces no noise whatsoever, only when you turn that it squeals.
At about 25,000 miles I had one of my rear brake pads sticking so had to change the rear brakes. The non-stuck pads on the other side looked decent still, so I'm assuming I'd have gotten quite a few more miles out of them if the one hadn't been sticking. Changed the front pads at about the same time, although they were in pretty good shape still (but it was taken apart already, so did them while it was apart and the chance was there). At about 50,000 miles later the rear pads are again unevenly (and I feel perhaps prematurely?) worn, and the fronts look fine. Is it something with the screw-type e-brake mechanism on the rear disc brake that lends itself to sticking? Or am I just especially unfortunate?
View 10 RepliesI got my 2011 S Corolla brand new and it's been great thus far. To make things a little more exciting, I got a manual. The last manual I had was my 2006 325i so it's been a little while.
Over the past few weeks, both my wife and I are experiencing quite a bit of clutch shudder or chatter and are finding it more and more difficult to engage the clutch without completely shaking the car. We've noticed this the longer the car is driven. On cold starts it doesn't happen. I've read some horror stories of the tranny going out, a weak transmission mount, or a warped flywheel in these Corollas. We bought this car because it's supposed to be reliable and get good mileage. Also, I'm still under the powertrain warranty but I'm not sure if they'll cover the clutch.
I have not checked the transmission fluid yet either. I can really use some suggestions. I had a 318is for over 100,000 miles and never put a new clutch in it!!! I'm getting frustrated.
Today I decided to change my rotors and pads out.. Got everything back together and i believe car is in limp mode.. It wont shift out of 3rd.. Abs light on ,check engine light, traction control and stability control light on.. Also my speedometer doesn't work but my rpm"s do...hooked up scan tool and comes back as wheel speed sensors.. I never touched them or removed them....
View 3 RepliesMy 2009 corolla recently started producing a brief metallic sound (less than a second) when i start in a cold morning. I noticed that when I warm up my battery (by starting the heat ventilator or other electrical equipment) for 10-20 seconds the car starts normally. The other thing I noticed that I have some white powder deposits on the top of my battery. There is no any other changes in the way my car runs.
View 2 RepliesWell this week, everytime I was backing up, hit a pothole or sometimes when I turn either left or right or hit the brakes a clunky or sometimes metallic sound appears coming from the back the undercarriage.
First I thought may be one of the bars (TRD or the Ultraracing sway bars) were loose, we lift, checked the car with the guy who installed the bars and all of them were tight ,nothing loose, we discovered on the front is time to change the bushings of the front stabilizer bar and also the rods who run parallel to the shocks absorbers but we couldn't mimic the sound the shocks are fine.
Tonight my daughter was driving the vehicle so I have a chance to hear the clunky noise, which I think is coming directly from the inside of the drums the sounds intensified at the time of hitting the brakes but is not all the time you hit the brake when it happened.
Also I can't explained why I heard the sound when I turn left or right and still coming from the back, doesn't make sense I can't find no relation whatsoever
I just add this 2 videos..
[URL] ...
[URL] ....
I have a 2009 with the 2.4L, 130Kmiles. I have engine shudder at idle and upon deceleration only. No check engine light so no codes-ran a hand held scanner no codes. Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, pulled the spark plugs/coils and swapped them around- still getting shudder and no check engine light. Only thing I noticed is the spark plugs were dry to very wet with oil going right to left. Car was parked on level ground. I am completely stumped.
Other thing is I just got the car back from the dealers to fix the clock spring airbag recall, and the vsc light popped up on the drive home. I did call them but afraid the car will not make it there and my wallet might go on a severe diet after. Out of warranty and dealer said if it is their doing because they knock something loose while fixing the airbag clock spring there will be no charge otherwise it's 129 just to look.
2010 Corolla 1.8 automatic. Accelerating at highway speed (2800-3200) rpm a low frequency shudder/vibration is felt in the floorboards. Goes away of you let up off of gas pedal. No vibration at idle, runs fine all other times. Most noticeable when accelerating under load (ie going uphill) and at highway speed. Trans mount visually intact. Ditto engine mounts. Cv axles less than 1 year old no rattle upon shaking.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2009 Toyota Corolla and it's making a loud grinding metallic noise on the front left side. It does it while I drive the faster I go the louder it gets. When I turn to the left it makes it louder, when I turn right the noise decreases. PG&E have been breaking the roads by where I live and there's a lot of little rocks I drive thru. I'm wondering if that's the problem?? What do I do?
View 4 RepliesWhen I am driving holding the gas pedal and the rpm at about 1500-2000 rpm but when I release the gas pedal the rpm goes down maybe 500-750 rpm then back up.
View 4 RepliesIs there anyway we can adjust our throttle or gas pedal? Cause when I press down on gas, it doesn't open until about an inch down the pedal. Pretty much, I just want the throttle to be more responsive.
View 7 RepliesOn my 2010 s ,my pedal brake begin to work on low position, I have 35000km it is normal? my wife hate this car because this.
View 4 RepliesIt was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
This vibration with sound on my brake pedal started after i change my stock intake to takeda. Well, Not all the time this thing happen, only when im in this kind of situation:
Pressing and hold my brake pedal at full stop and the gear is set to Drive, then, when the RPM goes down to below 900, the vibration with sound started, and it only disappear when i release my brake or when the RPM goes up automatically.
But, this only happened with this kind of situation when my car already heated up (like driving it more than 10 mins) and the temperature is at stable level.
While my car is just started driving, or its not already heated up, no vibration is happening.
I did a search and found nothing. When I press on the brake pedal, it seems to go half way to the floor before grabbing. The other 2010 I tested did the same thing. Is this common or is this something that I need to take to the dealer?
View 5 Replies2011 Corolla LE. Recently I upgraded the air intake, look at the picture
Shortly after that both me and my wife noticed that the brake pedal vibrates while car is In stop on lights. The vibration is only on the pedal and if you press it hard you suppress it. But when you feet is pressing light in the air it's very noticeable.
She also thinks that during above scenario RPMs go from about 1000k to 900 so are dropping. To be honest I did not notice that and not sure if this is normal or not. Other than that the car runs great and sounds much nicer bit loud but I like it.
Title should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.