Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: 2010 LE Not Starting / No Response From Engine At All
Feb 19, 2015
So have this 2010 Corolla LE. Been really cold here last while, did not drive for 2 days. Local temperatures around -20C ... Anyways today went to start car after having plug to block heater for 3 hours. Car did not start.
Thinking ignition switch... When I turn key. All lights come on. as normal. but when to try to turn over, no response from engine at all. no engine noise or anything, just see oil light come on and clicking sound.
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09 corolla. Wife said it was hard to start this morning and when she got off work. it started fine right after she got home. i waited a few hours, after dinner and went out to start it and it takes the engine about 3 seconds to start.
Normally when I turn the key the engine cranks up and starts. today it cranks or turns over about 3 times before starting. and there's no error/engine lights. tested the battery, full charge. not sure what else to check.
We are in Houston TX, with about 95'F day temps, you could call it a cold start since the engine has been resting and cooling off. but not cold like freezing temp.
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2010 corolla drove fine for a few hours after being rear ended, then has no throttle response. Will only go 20 MPH on flat ground. But, turn the car off for a few seconds and restart....and it has full throttle response which may continue for a few seconds after putting car in gear. Then it is back to no throttle response. Car is setting p0600 code. Traction control is off. VSC light is on. Looking for something knocked loose.
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I have had an intermittent problem with my 2010 Toyota Corolla S Manual for awhile now. The vehicle has about 27k on it and I am the only owner.
This problem began a few years back where I would get in the car and crank it and the car would take longer than normal to start. It would usually chug a bit and then start so I wasn't too concerned at this point. Yesterday I had to crank on it 4 times stopping for 1 minute between cranks and the engine finally started and then chugged hard for a good 5 seconds or so.... I was reading that the previous models had a problem with the ECU documented here.
[URL] .....
This does not seem to apply to my vehicle although the problem seems dead on. I don't suspect battery. The car cranks hard.... Obviously it can't be the starter. I really doubt it's the fuel pump doing this. I'm going to guess ECU, injector, some funky electrical issue.
I bought this car brand new from the dealer with 2 miles on it and I can't think of anything werid that has happened to the vehicle. Before anybody says cold weather is a factor.... It was almost 40 when I cranked on my car yesterday so I doubt that is it. Also I started the car in much colder conditions. The car did sit for a week before this happened... I can't remember if the car sat for a long period of time before the other starting issues happened. I'm planning on taking the car to the dealership soon, I'm in the process of moving so I can't be without a car right now.
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While driving, idling, accelerating, or braking the engine of 2010 Toyota Corolla XRS (2.4L) will be running fine but then have a shudder, evening stalling at times.
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I drive a 2010 Toyota Corolla, 1.8L vehicle. We recently went on vacation to Colorado and somewhere around Fairplay, CO, which is about 9500 feet above sea level, our relatively new car with only about 47K just died in the middle of the road where there was not shoulder or cell phone service. I pulled over the best I could and popped the hood after several attempts to restart to no avail. I removed the decorative plastic engine cover and looked at it long enough to realize I did not know anything to do or try, reinstalled the cover and closed the hood. I was then able to restart the car and go a little further.
It did happen to us one more time and again after a few minutes on the side of the road with the hood open I was able to start it. I was very surprised that there was no check engine light when I was able to restart the car. I would expect if the engine just dies in the middle of driving that it would at least produce a code where I could have some idea of what was going on. I have read about vapor lock, but it sounds like it is more likely to happen on older cars with a carburetor and with the fuel pump under the hood instead of in the fuel tank. Should I try higher octane fuel?
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I have a 2010 Corolla LE w/ about 90k miles. I took it to work. parked. Went back to car. Engine cranks. Won't start. Lights are bright. Radio on. Jumped it and it started up no problem. Took it and got a brand new battery. turned car on and it worked with no problems. took it home. next day went to work. started w/ no problem. After work, started with no problem.
NEXT DAY... Engine cranks again....won't start. Tried to jump it again but NOTHING.
(also, just want to mention there is no history or indication that this was gonna happen. no jumpy starts...no shaking...nothing.)
Someone came out and checked: alternator, battery, starter, everything checks out good and working.
Spark plugs: GOOD but no spark...thought it might be crank sensor. Tried to change that out, still won't start.
In the midst of all this my key was acting up. finally it broke out of the lock part....the actual key separated (not broke) from the alarm part. i went to go make a duplicate w/ the key part and tried the duplicate key and it still won't start. do these things have a chip in them that activates the crank sensor? I've been w/o my car for about a week and i feel as though it's right in front of me.
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I've got a 2009 Corolla CE, 5 speed. I've only had the car since september and had no issues until now. Now that there's snow on the roads, my car's ABS has starting coming on a lot more. Whenever it comes on, there's a noise that sounds very similar to grinding gears in a transmission coming from the front of the car. It's the first car I've ever had with ABS, and I've never heard this noise in any of my friend's cars with ABS, so I don't know if this is normal or not.
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I seem to be having a leak occuring from somewhere within the engine compartment, as I see beads of water dripping into the driver side and passenger side carpets. It only occurs when I turn the fan/A/C on.
This is leading me to believe that the evaporator drain is clogged, the only issue is: Where is it exactly located? I'm looking near the passenger side firewall within the engine compartment for a small black rubber hose, but I can't seem to find it. Is it further down underneath the firewall?
To add insult to injury, the VSA, traction control and check engine light both turned on today. I'm not sure if this is the result of persistent water leaking and causing something to short (I don't really know how water has been leaking for) but what could've caused that?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla (It has a 1ZZFE engine). The car for a long time was a little problem when starting (long cranks and several tries before starting, but no check engine light at all), then, after adjusting the PVC hose for 3 days the car worked perfectly, but one week ago, in the morning when trying starting, it was impossible. I scanned and got a U0100 code, tested crankshaft position sensor and it is ok, tried with the other key but same result, only cranks, no start at all. After scanning, it started briefly and suddenly went off, tried again, and only cranks.
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I have a 2011 Corolla S with 58k miles and 3 of 4 doors locks are intermittently starting to fail. I have seen videos on YouTube of the OEM actuators being rebuilt with the motor being replaced. I am hoping to avoid having to pay $200+ for each of the locksets.
I can find multiple motors that "fit", but they all have different size motors and shaft sizes. What are the specs on the replacement motor? I have done a search on the Toyota nation app and cannot find any posts on this.
The part I found is Machi brand, model # FC-280PC-22125.
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I have the 1.8L engine with automatic transmission and when I start my car, it has a loud grinding sound that lasts about 3-5 seconds. The Initial rpm after you start the car also idles around 1800-2200 rpm for almost 10 seconds before it goes back to 1000rpm.
The high idling also stops if you shift it into Drive (D) or Reverse (R) but in Neutral (N) it will jump back up to the high idle.
This started occuring november of last year. At first I took it to dealership but they could not diagnose it because they never heard the sound. It ONLY happened when it was cold below 30 F, but recently it has been becoming MORE and MORE frequent and now almost happens everytime I start the car. But it won't happen if the outdoor temperature is above 60 degrees or if I start the car shortly after I shut the engine off (like a 2-3 hour break in between).
I thought it might be a loose flywheel, bad torque convertor, or a faulty electronic throttle control system. I do NOT think it is the starter because it starts everytime even on the coldest of days just that the grinding sound is annoying.
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Im new to this modification game but im very eager to get started. I have a 2010 LE and am kind of put off that a majority of parts seem to be made for the S model, the only differences I know between the LE and S is looks am I wrong? And are there any aftermarket Head Units with a screen that are reliable and not cheap looking or feeling? Also I haven't really seen a definite answer on whether coil overs or springs are better for a drop?
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The 2011+ corollas have an option to have a usb/line in jack for the radio which is by the time clock. I have a 2010 corolla with just the line in jack aux input. Can I get the usb/line in jack part from the 2011 corolla and hook it up the wire that was originally connected to the line in jack connector? Or do I need part PT233-47100?
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Been all over the internet and have tried over a half a dozen or so different methods for programing a key but none have worked for me. I have already gotten the key cut at a locksmith, I just need to program it successfully.
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I have bought a new key for my 2010 Corolla. But i can't seem to find a reliable source that has the process in order to sync my new key to my car. Does what the process is to sync my new key?
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I recently took my 2010 Toyota Corolla LE to the dealer for an oil change and also to resolve a trunk leak.
I guess when they tried to resolve the trunk leak their mechanic smeared some oil on the headliner. Whats the best way to remove the oil stains on the headliner?
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I have a 2010 corolla s 1.8 liter. A couple months I started having a rough idle. It will drop below 600 for a second right at the point of stopping and then raise back up. While sitting at a light it will drop down and shake and then go back up. Had a couple people look at it including Toyota and they say it's normal. It did not do it a couple months ago so I know it's not normal.
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My 2010 LE has been having this issue for a little while now. Whenever I start up the car when the engine is still warm, (an hour or two after initially driving it), the engine will sputter for around 3-4 seconds, but will always start up. On cold starts, like every morning, the car will start normally. There are no noticeable rpm problems while driving either.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S that I bought new. It has a manual transmission, 19k miles and I have not had any problems until recently. Let me start by saying I've been driving a manual for over 20 years so I know how to drive them.
That night, in 1st gear it rolled out of my driveway. My driveway has a mild incline that the car has been parked on for a year this way with no problems. When I went to pull it back on it gave me trouble starting as if the starter got stuck but did not engage with the motor. Once started I pulled it back on and noticed that every few seconds it rolls back a couple inches then stops and holds for 15-20 seconds then rolls again.
It does this until it finds a flat spot to land on. Everytime its parked on my driveway now it wont stay there. Now before you tell me to use the p-brake, which by the way is the dealerships solution, let me remind you that the car has been parked in this spot everyday for a year with NO issues until last week.
Since this started I've been using the p-beake but I want to know why its doing this all of a sudden.
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We have a 2010 corolla that lost its audio but comes back if you slam the door. Does not seem to be a problem with the HU. This is a factory unit. I am thinking it has an amp somewhere but I can not find where it is. I can beat on the radio itself with no results so I know the bad connection is not there.
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