Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: 2010 LE Evaporator Drain Clogged - Leakage In Engine Compartment
Jul 19, 2013
I seem to be having a leak occuring from somewhere within the engine compartment, as I see beads of water dripping into the driver side and passenger side carpets. It only occurs when I turn the fan/A/C on.
This is leading me to believe that the evaporator drain is clogged, the only issue is: Where is it exactly located? I'm looking near the passenger side firewall within the engine compartment for a small black rubber hose, but I can't seem to find it. Is it further down underneath the firewall?
To add insult to injury, the VSA, traction control and check engine light both turned on today. I'm not sure if this is the result of persistent water leaking and causing something to short (I don't really know how water has been leaking for) but what could've caused that?
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I have just purchased my first Toyota. Formally a Subaru man. It is a 2009 corolla XLE with 95,000 miles. It is a one owner car in excellent condition and I have all the service records from the Toyota dealer where the work was done.
When I start the car most of the time there is a rattling sound that comes from the engine compartment and lasts just a couple of seconds. In my manual there is something in the ABS section about noises from the ABS system. Could the ABS system be the cause of this noise?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix S. There is a rattling noise coming from my engine compartment whenever i drive 60+ mph. It sounds like it's metal on metal. Nothing is loose inside. I took it to the dealer and they told me the water pump bearings were bad and replaced my whole water pump. That didn't resolve my problem. The rattling is still there.
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I have a 2009 Corolla 1.8 with 18,000 miles on it. My wife mainly drives it, today after getting it washed, I was driving and noticed a very faint noise from the engine compartment. Seems to be coming from the passenger front. The sound is something like grr grr grr.... I made sure it's not the wheels by putting the car in neutral and giving it gas which made the sound audible (I can also hear it while idling).
I had my wife sit in the car with me, and she couldn't hear anything, but I can, so I'm afraid when I go to the dealer he will say the same "I can't replicate the noise". What it can be?
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It's a lite creaking clunk/shifting sound and only occurs in forward and when braking to a stop.It only makes the noise... when the brakes are initially applied.If the brakes maintain their engagement the noise no longer occurs.So... if the peddle is intermittently pressed when braking to a slow stop the slight shift/clunk noise will occur on each depression of the pedal.
The sound is located inside the engine compartment..guessing related to the brakes /or suspension components.If I were to take a stab at it's location in the bay.I would think it's loudest nearer the driver's side.I don't really hear it when I brake hard/stop abruptly.It's fairly audible within the cabin.I can't say it's a clunk... at least not fully yet but something has to be shifting slightly !? well maybe the front brake calipers/bolts are loose and the caliper is moving slightly... ? Or maybe a loose bolt on the suspension might be culprit.Could even be described similarly that of a dry coil-over seal compressing.but surely these struts/shocks can't have failed at only 30k ?I haven't pulled the front wheels off, yet, to inspect.
Very difficult for me to ascertain what might be moving/shifting while I'm operating the vehicle to make it occur.But I have to believe that fault lay with either the brakes or suspension.I'd also like to avoid the cost of a dealership diagnosis
some facts:
2010 LX
30K (well maintained/2nd Owner)
factory/everything original
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Clear water comes into car my Corolla 2011 on drivers side and both the passenger and drivers rear floor panels. I checked and not coming from the body. Think it's from A/C but it's a lot of water. Front passenger side is bone dry. Looks like it may be coming from the center console and spreading out. Could the A/C evaporator drain be plugged. If so where do I find the hose?
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I have a loss of coolant, and I can smell it as I drive. I looked under the car today every hose is dry to the cooling system, so I thought look where the heater core is, everything is dry there too. No sign of Head gasket leak either. I just can still smell it, and still losing some but it is very little. What should I look for next?
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I have a 2010 F150. Everything checks out on the system pressure-wise, except that airflow is reduced. Likely diagnoses is dirty evaporator coil. Is there any way to try to clean this thing without removing the dash? That's a huge project, or a very expensive one if I can't do. Even if it is something that is just worth a try, I will try it.
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Is the sunroof drain supposed to drain into the trunk? Check out this pic:
Is the Tube supposed to be going where that plug is? If so, is there a specific Toyota plug part number I should use?
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My '09 2.4L Vibe has started to leak coolant around the coolant temperature sensor. It seems rather odd to me.
Who makes the OEM model? It shows as GM Part 88975489.
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Yesterday, I upgraded my door speakers to Fosgate PPS4-8's. They Fit beautifully, and I just have them in the original hole, standing on 3/4" spacers.
Removing my fosgate power 6.75's, I found that there were droplets of water all over the back of them. When you are driving in the rain, water comes in the drain right under the speaker.
The new 8's have baffles that I made out of cheap paint buckets from lowes until the real ones get here. I'm kinda unhappy with Toyota right now. I had assumed that because the stock speaker didn't have any protection, that it would be good.
The PPS4-8's are a midbass speaker, not a woofer. They are good for 80Hz to 5KHz. I went with them because I had a huge hole in my midrange that I couldn't correct because I had no midrange drivers. All 2-way's.
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The transmission drain plug torque on a 2011 Corolla s, u341e transmission.
I have heard 36ft lbs, I just feel like that is a lot and want to confirm. Any horror stories on snapping these plugs? I'm planning to get new crush washers.
Any experience with just using a fluid extractor to do multiple drain and fills from the dipstick? I've heard the tubing can sometimes melt/break off, but was considering this route to not have to deal with snapping a drain plug.
Tried searching, tried checking my hanyes manual and my factory service manual I have in pdf, neither lists a torque, or at least that I can find.
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What is the ATF drain plug size and its torque spec?
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I'm about to do a transmission fluid change on my 2009 Toyota Corolla and couldn't find the transmission fluid drain plug. Google search revealed various answers - located on transmission pan - located on transmission itself. Looking for a picture of where it's located for a 10th gen Corolla?
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I have a 2010 Toyota Matrix with the 1.8L engine that has a battery drain that is causing it to click and have a hard time starting after it sits. The clicking is constant, and basically sounds like a dead battery, which it is.
Battery was taken out and tested on a bench at Pep Boys, came back 100%.
Checked my voltage at night after driving it and it was at 12.5 V, checked again in the morning and it was down to 9.6 V. I know I have a drain somewhere, and have read I may need to keep a jumper across the negative terminal to ground until the moment I hook up the multimeter to it to check for a power draw? Is this year/model known to have certain issues with parasitic drain?
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So have this 2010 Corolla LE. Been really cold here last while, did not drive for 2 days. Local temperatures around -20C ... Anyways today went to start car after having plug to block heater for 3 hours. Car did not start.
Thinking ignition switch... When I turn key. All lights come on. as normal. but when to try to turn over, no response from engine at all. no engine noise or anything, just see oil light come on and clicking sound.
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I have had an intermittent problem with my 2010 Toyota Corolla S Manual for awhile now. The vehicle has about 27k on it and I am the only owner.
This problem began a few years back where I would get in the car and crank it and the car would take longer than normal to start. It would usually chug a bit and then start so I wasn't too concerned at this point. Yesterday I had to crank on it 4 times stopping for 1 minute between cranks and the engine finally started and then chugged hard for a good 5 seconds or so.... I was reading that the previous models had a problem with the ECU documented here.
[URL] .....
This does not seem to apply to my vehicle although the problem seems dead on. I don't suspect battery. The car cranks hard.... Obviously it can't be the starter. I really doubt it's the fuel pump doing this. I'm going to guess ECU, injector, some funky electrical issue.
I bought this car brand new from the dealer with 2 miles on it and I can't think of anything werid that has happened to the vehicle. Before anybody says cold weather is a factor.... It was almost 40 when I cranked on my car yesterday so I doubt that is it. Also I started the car in much colder conditions. The car did sit for a week before this happened... I can't remember if the car sat for a long period of time before the other starting issues happened. I'm planning on taking the car to the dealership soon, I'm in the process of moving so I can't be without a car right now.
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While driving, idling, accelerating, or braking the engine of 2010 Toyota Corolla XRS (2.4L) will be running fine but then have a shudder, evening stalling at times.
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I drive a 2010 Toyota Corolla, 1.8L vehicle. We recently went on vacation to Colorado and somewhere around Fairplay, CO, which is about 9500 feet above sea level, our relatively new car with only about 47K just died in the middle of the road where there was not shoulder or cell phone service. I pulled over the best I could and popped the hood after several attempts to restart to no avail. I removed the decorative plastic engine cover and looked at it long enough to realize I did not know anything to do or try, reinstalled the cover and closed the hood. I was then able to restart the car and go a little further.
It did happen to us one more time and again after a few minutes on the side of the road with the hood open I was able to start it. I was very surprised that there was no check engine light when I was able to restart the car. I would expect if the engine just dies in the middle of driving that it would at least produce a code where I could have some idea of what was going on. I have read about vapor lock, but it sounds like it is more likely to happen on older cars with a carburetor and with the fuel pump under the hood instead of in the fuel tank. Should I try higher octane fuel?
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I have a 2010 Corolla LE w/ about 90k miles. I took it to work. parked. Went back to car. Engine cranks. Won't start. Lights are bright. Radio on. Jumped it and it started up no problem. Took it and got a brand new battery. turned car on and it worked with no problems. took it home. next day went to work. started w/ no problem. After work, started with no problem.
NEXT DAY... Engine cranks again....won't start. Tried to jump it again but NOTHING.
(also, just want to mention there is no history or indication that this was gonna happen. no jumpy starts...no shaking...nothing.)
Someone came out and checked: alternator, battery, starter, everything checks out good and working.
Spark plugs: GOOD but no spark...thought it might be crank sensor. Tried to change that out, still won't start.
In the midst of all this my key was acting up. finally it broke out of the lock part....the actual key separated (not broke) from the alarm part. i went to go make a duplicate w/ the key part and tried the duplicate key and it still won't start. do these things have a chip in them that activates the crank sensor? I've been w/o my car for about a week and i feel as though it's right in front of me.
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Recently picked up a 2011 GX 460, premium, black exterior, sepia interior. New to the forum and love the truck!
Question: Where exactly the evaporator drain plug is located for my truck?
When I start the AC there is a noticeable musty smell from the vents that goes away after a few minutes. A fellow lexus owner friend told me I needed to purchase the Toyota AC Refresher kit which will clean out the musty smell. I bought the kit from Lexus Sewell and found a YouTube video highlighting how to use the kit.
Step 1 is to use a can of foam to clean the AC evaporator coils. To do this one must connect the can to the evaporator drain plug. The video states to find the evaporater drain plug to run your AC for a while and look for the condensation dripping out of the plug and that is where you plug in. However for me the weather has not been warm enough yet this year to allow for the condensation to occur.
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