Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: 2010 LE Engine Cranks But Won't Start / Lights Are Bright
Sep 17, 2014
I have a 2010 Corolla LE w/ about 90k miles. I took it to work. parked. Went back to car. Engine cranks. Won't start. Lights are bright. Radio on. Jumped it and it started up no problem. Took it and got a brand new battery. turned car on and it worked with no problems. took it home. next day went to work. started w/ no problem. After work, started with no problem.
NEXT DAY... Engine cranks again....won't start. Tried to jump it again but NOTHING.
(also, just want to mention there is no history or indication that this was gonna happen. no jumpy starts...no shaking...nothing.)
Someone came out and checked: alternator, battery, starter, everything checks out good and working.
Spark plugs: GOOD but no spark...thought it might be crank sensor. Tried to change that out, still won't start.
In the midst of all this my key was acting up. finally it broke out of the lock part....the actual key separated (not broke) from the alarm part. i went to go make a duplicate w/ the key part and tried the duplicate key and it still won't start. do these things have a chip in them that activates the crank sensor? I've been w/o my car for about a week and i feel as though it's right in front of me.
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I have a 2009 Corolla 1.8L. It turns over but won't start. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on or when I try to start it. There are 3 EFI fuses, and all of them are good. There doesn't seem to be an EFI relay (correct me if I'm wrong). I've replaced the fuel pump and it still won't start.
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I have had an intermittent problem with my 2010 Toyota Corolla S Manual for awhile now. The vehicle has about 27k on it and I am the only owner.
This problem began a few years back where I would get in the car and crank it and the car would take longer than normal to start. It would usually chug a bit and then start so I wasn't too concerned at this point. Yesterday I had to crank on it 4 times stopping for 1 minute between cranks and the engine finally started and then chugged hard for a good 5 seconds or so.... I was reading that the previous models had a problem with the ECU documented here.
[URL] .....
This does not seem to apply to my vehicle although the problem seems dead on. I don't suspect battery. The car cranks hard.... Obviously it can't be the starter. I really doubt it's the fuel pump doing this. I'm going to guess ECU, injector, some funky electrical issue.
I bought this car brand new from the dealer with 2 miles on it and I can't think of anything werid that has happened to the vehicle. Before anybody says cold weather is a factor.... It was almost 40 when I cranked on my car yesterday so I doubt that is it. Also I started the car in much colder conditions. The car did sit for a week before this happened... I can't remember if the car sat for a long period of time before the other starting issues happened. I'm planning on taking the car to the dealership soon, I'm in the process of moving so I can't be without a car right now.
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09 corolla. Wife said it was hard to start this morning and when she got off work. it started fine right after she got home. i waited a few hours, after dinner and went out to start it and it takes the engine about 3 seconds to start.
Normally when I turn the key the engine cranks up and starts. today it cranks or turns over about 3 times before starting. and there's no error/engine lights. tested the battery, full charge. not sure what else to check.
We are in Houston TX, with about 95'F day temps, you could call it a cold start since the engine has been resting and cooling off. but not cold like freezing temp.
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We just purchased a used 2010 LE model a couple weeks ago and for the first time actually drove it during the night. So I decided to check out how the fog lights look. Problem is, when I turned them on it didn't light up any of the road between the low beams and the front bumper of the car. In fact acted kind of acted as high beams. They are currently aimed higher than my low beams!!!
This doesn't seem right to me.
- Were the lights installed upside down?
- They should be lighting up the area on the road between my low beams and front bumper correct?
- Is it possible that they are able to be aimed that high if installed correctly?
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I'm having a few issues I have 2010 corolla le.
For some reason when my daytime running lights are on my rpms drop to 600 rpms and I get a rough idle. My needle jumps up and down. Happens when car is warmed up. Once I turn my low beam on rpms go up to normal 800 rpms. No rough idle and car runs normal.
Yesterday I was parked with radio on ignition off for about 10 15 min and turned the car on and idle went really low. I Rev it up and the needle dropped to the bottom before going up. Hesitating. Did the same a 2nd time needle dropped all the way down and car shut off. I shut the car off and turned it back on and car was hesitating. Then after a few revs car was normal.
Car is running fine now no light on my dash.
Is it a throttle body problem? I cleaned throttle plate recently it's not dirty.
I'm wondering if I should replace throttle body?
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I have a 2010 Corolla S (5spd manual) with 51,xxx miles on it. I have noticed that when I start the engine the belt gives off a squeak and some times lasts a little longer than the last time... I have noticed that in colder weather the squeaking nose is noticeably louder and lasts longer. My father was speaking with a kid who has the same car as me and had the same problem. He informed my father that it was his water pump that was causing this to happen and he had it replaced under warranty by Toyota.
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I have a 2009 with the 2.4L, 130Kmiles. I have engine shudder at idle and upon deceleration only. No check engine light so no codes-ran a hand held scanner no codes. Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, pulled the spark plugs/coils and swapped them around- still getting shudder and no check engine light. Only thing I noticed is the spark plugs were dry to very wet with oil going right to left. Car was parked on level ground. I am completely stumped.
Other thing is I just got the car back from the dealers to fix the clock spring airbag recall, and the vsc light popped up on the drive home. I did call them but afraid the car will not make it there and my wallet might go on a severe diet after. Out of warranty and dealer said if it is their doing because they knock something loose while fixing the airbag clock spring there will be no charge otherwise it's 129 just to look.
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2010 Corolla set for a week I went to use it and it would not start it would turn over but not start. I don't think it was the battery because it would chug for a few seconds miss/hiccup then die after trying 8 times it finally started you could smell fuel and the rpms where at 2000 but went back down after it warmed up.
After it started I had the check engine light, vsc off and slip indicator light on when I parked the car I had no issues.
How can this happen by setting for a week in a garage? There's no animals to chew on anything. In the past the car has been hard to start if it set for a week similar to what happened today but never as bad and no check engine lights.
I turned the car off and on and now it starts fine and seems to run ok but all 3 lights are still on. The oxygen sensor on bank 1 was replaced almost a year ago.
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2012 Corolla S with 84000 miles, for the last month the check engine and trac off light keeps coming on randomly. I disconnect the negative battery charge and wait 10min and reconnect and it goes away. I havnt counted how many miles I go until the light come back on. But since the last time I disconnected the battery my car has been on for 8hours on the engine time. I had them scan it at autozone and the car is throwing two codes one was the MAF and I can't recall the other.
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So have this 2010 Corolla LE. Been really cold here last while, did not drive for 2 days. Local temperatures around -20C ... Anyways today went to start car after having plug to block heater for 3 hours. Car did not start.
Thinking ignition switch... When I turn key. All lights come on. as normal. but when to try to turn over, no response from engine at all. no engine noise or anything, just see oil light come on and clicking sound.
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My daughters 2009 will start right up but after about a second it shuts right off we tried it several times and it shuts right down.If you wait for 10 to 20 mins it starts and runs fine.
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While driving, idling, accelerating, or braking the engine of 2010 Toyota Corolla XRS (2.4L) will be running fine but then have a shudder, evening stalling at times.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla (It has a 1ZZFE engine). The car for a long time was a little problem when starting (long cranks and several tries before starting, but no check engine light at all), then, after adjusting the PVC hose for 3 days the car worked perfectly, but one week ago, in the morning when trying starting, it was impossible. I scanned and got a U0100 code, tested crankshaft position sensor and it is ok, tried with the other key but same result, only cranks, no start at all. After scanning, it started briefly and suddenly went off, tried again, and only cranks.
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Installing a remote engine start on corolla? 2013 Corolla with G key specifically.
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I now have 500 Miles on my LE. Driven soft Never over 2,500 rpm except, one time I accelerated to 4,500 RPM in first. Short 5 Mile trips.
Engine knock on start-up (Lasts one second)
sounds like a lifter pumping up.
Only happens occasionally.
Happened last night after driving 40 Miles and parking it for two hours.
Is this normal? I have noticed this since the first 10 Miles on the odometer. Figured it was the 0W-20 Oil.
My friend has a 2003 Echo with 100,000 miles and it does not do this.
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Corolla 2009.. battery died.. jump started it.. alarm went off on my car since i accidentally put my car key in the other car and tried to start the car. Got the alarm to stop after i disconnected the jumper cables.. Now my car won't start after 20 minutes of keeping on the other car with jumper cables.. Light work but stereo and dashboards light wont come up either.. The keyless entry locks the car but does not unlocks it.. When I put my key in the ignition, the security light stops flashing..
My headlights and interiors light work.. The engine is cranking when i try to start it, but wont go fully through..
Model: corolla
Year: 2009
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So basically I woke up one morning, was gonna go to work when I tried to start my corolla nothing happened...tried that couple of times and still nothing ....then couple tries later, you could hear the car try to start but then nothing happens. The check Engine light is on when I try to turn on car
The battery and such seems fine. And I don't recall having any problems before, now even the remote control for the key wont work for the car...
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I drive a 2010 Toyota Corolla, 1.8L vehicle. We recently went on vacation to Colorado and somewhere around Fairplay, CO, which is about 9500 feet above sea level, our relatively new car with only about 47K just died in the middle of the road where there was not shoulder or cell phone service. I pulled over the best I could and popped the hood after several attempts to restart to no avail. I removed the decorative plastic engine cover and looked at it long enough to realize I did not know anything to do or try, reinstalled the cover and closed the hood. I was then able to restart the car and go a little further.
It did happen to us one more time and again after a few minutes on the side of the road with the hood open I was able to start it. I was very surprised that there was no check engine light when I was able to restart the car. I would expect if the engine just dies in the middle of driving that it would at least produce a code where I could have some idea of what was going on. I have read about vapor lock, but it sounds like it is more likely to happen on older cars with a carburetor and with the fuel pump under the hood instead of in the fuel tank. Should I try higher octane fuel?
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I have a 2010 Corolla S Got it brand new in november of 2009. Its been 5 years since I had it and never had this problem.
So this has been happening for a month now, and I can't figure out what it is? It only sounds at first startup of the day when the engine is cold and only sounds off for 1 second right when you start the car.
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I have just purchased my first Toyota. Formally a Subaru man. It is a 2009 corolla XLE with 95,000 miles. It is a one owner car in excellent condition and I have all the service records from the Toyota dealer where the work was done.
When I start the car most of the time there is a rattling sound that comes from the engine compartment and lasts just a couple of seconds. In my manual there is something in the ABS section about noises from the ABS system. Could the ABS system be the cause of this noise?
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