Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: 2010 - Intermittent Low Idle When Warm After Rain
Feb 28, 2013
I have a 2010 corolla with 32k miles, automatic transmission. I have an intermittent low idle issue when it rained or when it is below freezing 32F. It happens when I am in drive and about to brake to a complete stop. The idle dips to around 500 rpm, the engine shudders and the car shakes then after a second or two, the engine idle goes back up to 800 rpm. There is no engine concerns at any other speed just at idle. I have no CEL codes. The engine never stalls. Low idle when braking.
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My 2010 Toyota Corolla caught fire IN THE RAIN yesterday ( Jan 9, 2014) while I was driving ..... I was lucky to get out of the car before the fire came in the passenger compartment.... Trying to find out a way to see if this has happened to other Toyotas....
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I have a 2010 corolla s 1.8 liter. A couple months I started having a rough idle. It will drop below 600 for a second right at the point of stopping and then raise back up. While sitting at a light it will drop down and shake and then go back up. Had a couple people look at it including Toyota and they say it's normal. It did not do it a couple months ago so I know it's not normal.
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There is one thing that i find weird, i hear a noise that sounds timed grr grr grr grr when the car is at idle. moreover, i hear this grr grr grr noise after the car has been driven for a while, when the engine is cold, I do not hear anything. also this timed grr grr grr noise is only heard from inside the car, but it is definitely coming from the engine area. the sound comes and goes, performance has not changed but the sound is really bothering me every time I stop at a light. i do not hear it while the car is in motion or while accelerating only at idle. Is this the water pump...
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My son's 2010 Toyota Corolla S made a "rattling ticking sound at idle" twice this week.
I can't duplicate it, the oil level is fine and everything is working.
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Yesterday, I upgraded my door speakers to Fosgate PPS4-8's. They Fit beautifully, and I just have them in the original hole, standing on 3/4" spacers.
Removing my fosgate power 6.75's, I found that there were droplets of water all over the back of them. When you are driving in the rain, water comes in the drain right under the speaker.
The new 8's have baffles that I made out of cheap paint buckets from lowes until the real ones get here. I'm kinda unhappy with Toyota right now. I had assumed that because the stock speaker didn't have any protection, that it would be good.
The PPS4-8's are a midbass speaker, not a woofer. They are good for 80Hz to 5KHz. I went with them because I had a huge hole in my midrange that I couldn't correct because I had no midrange drivers. All 2-way's.
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I recently bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla. I have been having some issues with the A/C. The A/C seems to work fine when the car is moving but when it is idle it gets warmer. I have recently gotten the freon checked and they put in some more but that didn't work, same problem still happening. Somebody told me that i need a extra fan which didn't make sense to me. Last resort will be to take it to the dealership to have them check. Once again the A/C blows cold air when the car is going over 50 MPH.
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2009 Matrix 2ZR-FE, briefly rattles on restart after sitting for one hour after reaching running temp. This engine doesn't rattle on a cold startup so I'm wondering what else other than the intake cam gear could cause this. 42,000 miles, 5-20 dino, regular service.
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I finally caught my engine rattle on audio. Give a listen and tell me what you think this is: [URL] .....
There's a TSB about a rattle on a cold start, but mine never rattles when it's cold. This always happens on a warm restart -- usually about 45 to 75 minutes after I've parked it.
It's been doing this for at least a year, but I've had trouble catching it in the act and, of course, the dealer can't reproduce it. I currently have 37k miles on it. Oil changes completed at 1k, 5k and every 5k after. Using Mobil 1 5W-20 since the second change.
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Basically, whenever I brake, my front brakes squeal. But they only do this if I use about 25% to 33% force. If I press on the pedal harder, the squealing goes away and the same if I reduce the force.
I replaced my pads with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads in March 2015. The noise started a month or 2 after replacing my pads, and I've only put about 12k miles on them. I had my car in a couple weeks ago for an oil change, and the inspection showed that the pads still had plenty of life on them. I brought it up to the service advisor, and he suggested that my rotors might be warped and need to be machined. The problem with that is I feel absolutely no vibration in my brake pedal that would indicate warpage.
So the only other thing I can think of is the shims might be causing the noise. I was going to get some grease and apply that and see if it works. Also, when I was replacing the pads I bled out a little more brake fluid than I intended. But it hasn't seemed to affect my braking ability so I ruled that out.
Any guesses for what might cause this? Like I said, I have plenty of material left on the pads and I can stop without problems, so it's not a safety issue, just a tad annoying.
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2009 1.8 Corolla . I'm chasing an intermittent P0352 code and misfire. Code points to coil pack #2 . Question is, which one is #2 ? I want to swap coils and see if the error follows the coil but I can figure out which cylinder is #2 and since all of the coil wires disappear into a loom, I'm not sure how else to tell.
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I have a 2009 Corolla XRS 5 speed manual and it has started to idle low (sometimes), under 600 rpm and i know that's not normal... I bought it brand new and it has 75k miles
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Just bought a used 09 Corolla LE with 89K miles on it. I noticed a subtle rough idle when I come to a stop light and especially noticeable when in reverse. Here are the things I've tried so far:
- TB and fuel system cleaned at Instant Valvoline
- Cleaned the MAF sensor with a MAF sensor cleaner
- Replaced the spark plugs with OEM plugs
- Replaced air filter
- New water pump
- Bled the coolant system
I also took it to the dealership and had them checked the PCV and the timing chain tensioner replaced. And of course their response was they couldn't replicate the problem. They also said if there's anything wrong with the O2 sensors, the IAC or the TB system, it will throw an error code. So they basically charged me about $100 to tell me there's nothing they could do and just put up with it until the check engine light come on.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S with 130k miles and started developing what felt like a slight misfire at idle. Dealer suggested change the plugs and if not that try the coils. So I got the wrong plugs givin to me there 5/8s not 14mm. I found a socket that worked and thought the old ones where the same as the new ones.
The 5/8 socket fell right in and knew it wasn't the right size after the plug wasn't tuning. Then I searched and found out there 14mm plugs. So now the socket is stuck inside the metal tube that goes into the head. I tried a locking extensions, long needle nose, hook with a slide hammer, pb blaster, heat, crc freeze off. Even tried spinning it as pulling up with an impact.
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My wife's 2009 Corolla S has 107,000 miles. Early on it developed a low idle and vibration while stopped at a light. It was idling about 600 rpm after it warmed up. It never stalled but occasionally vibrated. After doing some research I found some were having success cleaning the throttle body and throttle plate. I did that along with changing the spark plugs. At that time I disconnected the battery to reset the computer. She has put about 2,000 miles on it since then and it never idles below 800 rpm. The vibration hasn't been back either.
I believe it was the throttle body/ plate cleaning and disconnecting the battery that resets the computer that fixed it. The plugs still looked good at 105 K miles, but I had new ones so I put them in. I bought a can of Berryman b12 choke & carb cleaner and sprayed a little on the throttle body and plate and then sprayed some on a rag and wiped down the body and plate. It was quite dirty.
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Basically when the car is in D and when i am stopped with the brakes pressed on at a stop sign or a red light, the car starts vibrating and i can see the the rpm going down and then receiving back up and going down again something when the car is in R. its a 2009 toyota corolla le 90k miles. when the headlights are on, the rpm stays high so the car does not vibrate or anything. other than this the car runs perfectly fine.
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A few weeks ago when I started my Matrix(Automatic) it fired up then shuddered and stalled. It did this two more times. The fourth time as soon as I started it I give pressure on the gas pedal until it stayed running when idling. I was unsure if it was because I parked in a garage overnight when it's normally parked outside. It didn't happen again after that so I wasn't extremely concerned.
Today while driving I had a scary incident. I was waiting to turn in an intersection and went to accelerate before another car came through and the car lost power and almost stalled. I was a bit panicked in the moment but I don't remember hearing the engine rev and didn't have power. I released the pedal and when I pressed it the next time it accelerated. I'll check exactly how many km there are but I believe it's around 124,000.
Does this sounds like a fuel pump problem? I had to have my transmission replaced around 100,000 because it was clunking and I would have times I would lose power to my wheels while highway driving.
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Lately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
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I changed the battery this morning in my 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT with the 2.4 and ended up with a rough idle. I was not having any of these issues before the change. How to adapt the throttle body?
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I have a 2009 with the 2.4L, 130Kmiles. I have engine shudder at idle and upon deceleration only. No check engine light so no codes-ran a hand held scanner no codes. Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, pulled the spark plugs/coils and swapped them around- still getting shudder and no check engine light. Only thing I noticed is the spark plugs were dry to very wet with oil going right to left. Car was parked on level ground. I am completely stumped.
Other thing is I just got the car back from the dealers to fix the clock spring airbag recall, and the vsc light popped up on the drive home. I did call them but afraid the car will not make it there and my wallet might go on a severe diet after. Out of warranty and dealer said if it is their doing because they knock something loose while fixing the airbag clock spring there will be no charge otherwise it's 129 just to look.
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I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
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