Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: 2010 Crank And Sputter - RPM Going Up And Down Not Stable
Feb 23, 2016
I had this issue a few times during summertime and now its winter. I have tried used STP Fuel Moisture Removal, but it seems to work a bit.
However this morning the same symptom happened again, crank the engine over in -4 Degrees *C Temperature. Engine fires but probably on two out of four pistons... rpm gauge is going up and down not stable.
I corrected this by shutting the engine off by turning the Key to position off. Then I cranked it a second time, and the same thing was happening.... sputtering.... I added a bit of throttle to get the Engine to work out the bad gas and or water in the fuel lines.
Question: Should I have let the engine idle or add the throttle to the engine?
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I'm working on a 03 Toyota matrix base 1.8. it died on the road and now will crank and sputter a little but that's all. its getting good spark, not sure about injector pulse but I do smell fuel after cranking. I have also checked the timing chain it is tight but didn't try lining things up to check if it skipped. Seems to have good compression but didn't have a gauge on me. Also tried adding fuel and it wouldn't kick off of that. I'm thinking crank or cam sensor but don't have a scope to test and don't know how else to check them.
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I have had an intermittent problem with my 2010 Toyota Corolla S Manual for awhile now. The vehicle has about 27k on it and I am the only owner.
This problem began a few years back where I would get in the car and crank it and the car would take longer than normal to start. It would usually chug a bit and then start so I wasn't too concerned at this point. Yesterday I had to crank on it 4 times stopping for 1 minute between cranks and the engine finally started and then chugged hard for a good 5 seconds or so.... I was reading that the previous models had a problem with the ECU documented here.
[URL] .....
This does not seem to apply to my vehicle although the problem seems dead on. I don't suspect battery. The car cranks hard.... Obviously it can't be the starter. I really doubt it's the fuel pump doing this. I'm going to guess ECU, injector, some funky electrical issue.
I bought this car brand new from the dealer with 2 miles on it and I can't think of anything werid that has happened to the vehicle. Before anybody says cold weather is a factor.... It was almost 40 when I cranked on my car yesterday so I doubt that is it. Also I started the car in much colder conditions. The car did sit for a week before this happened... I can't remember if the car sat for a long period of time before the other starting issues happened. I'm planning on taking the car to the dealership soon, I'm in the process of moving so I can't be without a car right now.
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Car wont even crank, no power to any accessories.
Car is making a clicking noise from the engine fuse book too as well.
Low engine oil pressure light also comes on too.
Checked the oil which is fine.
Checked fuses 2 weeks ago and they were fine.
Need a working car.
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About 2 months ago I started having a problem starting my car. It would crank and crank but wouldn't start. Eventually it would start but threw a code for the camshaft position sensor. I figured I'd go ahead and replaced it. Still had the same issue after about a week without problems, except this time the crankshaft position sensor code.
I maintain my car very well, and it just recently passed 45k miles. It's a 2010 Corolla S.
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A lot of videos have audio of a knocking sound, however my sound is more akin to an extra crank of the starter. It's intermittent at best, and I thought it was actually use error until I noticed the sound occurred a few times even when I briefly cranked the engine.
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My daughter has a 2011 corolla and when she first cranks the car the maintenance required light flashes a couple of times and goes out. I think last time I changed her oil, it was steady on. What is causing it to flash?
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Im new to this modification game but im very eager to get started. I have a 2010 LE and am kind of put off that a majority of parts seem to be made for the S model, the only differences I know between the LE and S is looks am I wrong? And are there any aftermarket Head Units with a screen that are reliable and not cheap looking or feeling? Also I haven't really seen a definite answer on whether coil overs or springs are better for a drop?
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The 2011+ corollas have an option to have a usb/line in jack for the radio which is by the time clock. I have a 2010 corolla with just the line in jack aux input. Can I get the usb/line in jack part from the 2011 corolla and hook it up the wire that was originally connected to the line in jack connector? Or do I need part PT233-47100?
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Been all over the internet and have tried over a half a dozen or so different methods for programing a key but none have worked for me. I have already gotten the key cut at a locksmith, I just need to program it successfully.
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I have bought a new key for my 2010 Corolla. But i can't seem to find a reliable source that has the process in order to sync my new key to my car. Does what the process is to sync my new key?
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I recently took my 2010 Toyota Corolla LE to the dealer for an oil change and also to resolve a trunk leak.
I guess when they tried to resolve the trunk leak their mechanic smeared some oil on the headliner. Whats the best way to remove the oil stains on the headliner?
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I have a 2010 corolla s 1.8 liter. A couple months I started having a rough idle. It will drop below 600 for a second right at the point of stopping and then raise back up. While sitting at a light it will drop down and shake and then go back up. Had a couple people look at it including Toyota and they say it's normal. It did not do it a couple months ago so I know it's not normal.
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My 2010 LE has been having this issue for a little while now. Whenever I start up the car when the engine is still warm, (an hour or two after initially driving it), the engine will sputter for around 3-4 seconds, but will always start up. On cold starts, like every morning, the car will start normally. There are no noticeable rpm problems while driving either.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S that I bought new. It has a manual transmission, 19k miles and I have not had any problems until recently. Let me start by saying I've been driving a manual for over 20 years so I know how to drive them.
That night, in 1st gear it rolled out of my driveway. My driveway has a mild incline that the car has been parked on for a year this way with no problems. When I went to pull it back on it gave me trouble starting as if the starter got stuck but did not engage with the motor. Once started I pulled it back on and noticed that every few seconds it rolls back a couple inches then stops and holds for 15-20 seconds then rolls again.
It does this until it finds a flat spot to land on. Everytime its parked on my driveway now it wont stay there. Now before you tell me to use the p-brake, which by the way is the dealerships solution, let me remind you that the car has been parked in this spot everyday for a year with NO issues until last week.
Since this started I've been using the p-beake but I want to know why its doing this all of a sudden.
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We have a 2010 corolla that lost its audio but comes back if you slam the door. Does not seem to be a problem with the HU. This is a factory unit. I am thinking it has an amp somewhere but I can not find where it is. I can beat on the radio itself with no results so I know the bad connection is not there.
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I have a corolla 2010 S and I think the blower is not working properly. It work in all speeds but in the max speed (4) you could hear and feel that the air flow varies. There is a little noise coming from the glove compartment. I already change the cabin air filter and still do it. I have to change the blower ?
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I have a 2010 Corolla S (5spd manual) with 51,xxx miles on it. I have noticed that when I start the engine the belt gives off a squeak and some times lasts a little longer than the last time... I have noticed that in colder weather the squeaking nose is noticeably louder and lasts longer. My father was speaking with a kid who has the same car as me and had the same problem. He informed my father that it was his water pump that was causing this to happen and he had it replaced under warranty by Toyota.
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There is one thing that i find weird, i hear a noise that sounds timed grr grr grr grr when the car is at idle. moreover, i hear this grr grr grr noise after the car has been driven for a while, when the engine is cold, I do not hear anything. also this timed grr grr grr noise is only heard from inside the car, but it is definitely coming from the engine area. the sound comes and goes, performance has not changed but the sound is really bothering me every time I stop at a light. i do not hear it while the car is in motion or while accelerating only at idle. Is this the water pump...
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2010 LE is having a brake squealing issue. The car only has 35,000 miles and the pads are at about 50% life left. I cleaned everything and lubed everything and they are still squealing. I would hate to have to replace the front brakes this early especially when the pads are only half worn. They are the factory pads and rotors btw.
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Basically, I think my Corolla isn't calculating the MPG correctly. I had to take my car for some major body repairs. When I got it back, most of my settings on the radio and speedometer were reset (time, radio's tremble and bass).
Anyway, before all this body work, it was at 27.7 MPG. My daily route changed. I used to go on a 13-15 mile commute 4-5 days a week. It wasn't a highway, but still a straight road with 4-5 stop lights. I would get 28 MPG, which I think is the max city average for my model.
Then after the change, it started going down. My routes were more quick (probably no more than 6 miles), but I still had the 4-5 stops basically. So I understand this slight drop in average MPG (28 to 27.7).
However, after the body work, the MPG average must have reset. B/c when I checked it, it was at 20 MPG. Which is very odd. I would have noticed if I was burning that much fuel. I don't think that is correct.
And I think the problem is that my average MPG will actually go down when I leave my car in park. So.... I tested it. I reset the MPG average. When I went to the store, I drove normally. I got 30 MPG (pretty straight road, 1-2 stops, 3 miles away). When I stopped and put it in park for a few minutes, I noticed it going down by 0.2 about every 15-20 seconds.
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