Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: 2010 - Bolt Came Out With Ignition Coil / Remaining Half Stuck
Apr 19, 2013
SO I was working on changing my spark plugs on my 66k 10; corolla. I was trying to remove the bolt(holds the cooldown), at first it was hard to wedge it, but slowly I was able to loose it up little by little. ALL the sudden the bolt made a snap noise, half of the bolt(head) came out with the ignition coil, the other half is still stuck in the whole.
I didn't attempt to change the spark plug or work on the other cylinder heads thinking all the bolts may snap off that holds the coil down. I drove my car around and the coil didn't move at all.
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I looked around and couldn't find the specs for the valve cover bolts.. I'm assuming it'll be a pretty low torque like 20 ft-lbs.
This'll be the 2ZR-FE 1.8L engine.
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I am having trouble figuring out what a nut on my 2011 Corolla LE is called, so I am having alot of trouble looking up a solution on my own. There is a bolt above the oil filter and near a sensor that is leaking. I marked it in red in the below picture. I am having trouble looking up what to do without knowing enough about it to search.
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Sometimes when I start my car it makes a weird cranking/grinding noise for half a second. The closest thing I have to engine mods are my TWM short shifter, and my borla axle back exhaust.
The noise only happens after my car has been sitting there, parked for a few hours. So to bring it to Toyota/mechanic would be nearly impossible to replicate, unless I left it there for a while. And even then, the noise only happens sometimes.
Yes I'm pressing my clutch pedal all the way down. No I am not holding the key too long when starting the car. What it might be?
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I did a search and found nothing. When I press on the brake pedal, it seems to go half way to the floor before grabbing. The other 2010 I tested did the same thing. Is this common or is this something that I need to take to the dealer?
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I have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
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Looks like if it was broken off but they tried to jb weld it in place and now I cannot get it out.
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I was installing the footwell lights and now the headlights on buzzer does not work. And when I press the lock/unlock button on the key fob, the corolla actually locks and unlocks the car WHILE the doors are open! Also, the key in ignition buzzer doesn't work as well!
The seatbelt buzzer works though. I don't know what to do and I want those Features back!
What happened is that I was trying to zip tie the led strip on the metal bar under the steering wheel behind the panel with the tire reset switch. I guess the + & - terminals touched the metal thing and there was a little spark! The dome Lights work and so do the foot wells! But the buZZER doesn't!
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I just recently picked myself up a 13' Corolla CE! Love it but have found some quirks that Im just wondering if this is normal with other 13' owners. Car has roughly 3000km on it so far.
-When I start the car, it almost sounds like my speakers 'pop' once I let off turning my ignition. Its not a extremely loud pop, but loud enough to make one think, "what the heck was that?" Have others had that issue
-Recently, its been a bit colder here (-3 Celsius). I have noticed it takes roughly 5 minutes of continued driving for the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature. Is that normal? Should it warm quicker than that? Its almost like the thermo is stuck slightly open.
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Is there any way to change the sound the car makes when you have your key in the ignition? I have various audio samples and once of them is a females voice saying "command codes verified". I want to have this sound bite 'chime' when I put the key in the ignition.
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My heater is currently stuck on the floor and I cannot get the vents to point to the defrost. I replaced the knob, and still nothing. It appears that the wiring to the knob connects to a wide cylindrical piece that looks loose.
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My rear passenger window is stuck all the way down. It will not go up at all by its dedicated switch or master switch. i can hear the motor when pressed down but refuses to go up. master switch is most likely the culprit (it has serious issues) & i'm still waiting for replacement to arrive in mail..
For the time being, what are my options, I can't take car anywhere with window all the way down.
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I have a question about my 2009 Toyota corolla. About a week ago it was pretty cold out and when I started my car and I heard a grinding type noise for just a split second and it was over. It never did it again after that. Well I went to start my car yesterday and it will not start or even turn over. The dash doesn't light up, the head lights, radio, windows are door locks will not work. The battery was checked and it's fine. My husband is thinking that it maybe the ignition switch. Does this sound right?
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I recently bought a 2009 Toyota Corolla. The other day I noticed when I opened my door and the keys were still in the ignition, it either did not beep at all to warn me or only beeped once very briefly. I am almost certain I recall it beeping constantly until I pulled the keys out of the ignition. This feature has saved me from locking my keys in my car a few times and would like it to work again.
There are no other issues that I have had with the car, the ignition works fine as well as everything else.
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My aunt somehow managed to drop coins that landed on/in the driver's seat track. How would I be able to remove the coins? Also, are there any electric wires I should know of before beginning the process?
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Ignition coils on Hyundai Accent (2011) getting stuck in suction? Or looking for engine vacuum pathway explanation?
I previously (~6 months ago) replaced one ignition coil that had a misfire. I currently have a check engine light with "No Codes" on code reader. My engine is rough idling with very weak acceleration. This occurred when trying to accelerate up a hill. I was looking to inspect the coil resistance and noticed the replaced coil has a pretty strong suction holding it in.
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I've noticed that in the past week or so, whenever I'm stuck in traffic for a few minutes, the engine temp will slowly rise. it gets really bad if traffic is crawling; the temp has reached that 2nd highest line before the red area.
Whenever I get going again and hit the gas, the temp drops. What it is?
Car is currently at 86k miles. I don't believe the water pump has been replaced yet.
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Im new to this modification game but im very eager to get started. I have a 2010 LE and am kind of put off that a majority of parts seem to be made for the S model, the only differences I know between the LE and S is looks am I wrong? And are there any aftermarket Head Units with a screen that are reliable and not cheap looking or feeling? Also I haven't really seen a definite answer on whether coil overs or springs are better for a drop?
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My wife has an 09 Accent and a couple of days ago we were exiting the highway. As I stepped on the accelerator I noticed the engine struggle and stumble followed by the flashing MEL. I pulled into a parking lot and shut the car off and plugged the reader in to get the code but the computer already erased the code and the MEL light was extinguished and it ran fine the rest of the day. The following day my wife was driving it on the highway when the MEL light came back on but there was no associated engine roughness. I had her plug in the reader to get the code for me and it came up with P302 - misfire detected in the #2 cylinder. She didn't notice any engine roughness so I told her to drive to work but stay off the highway. She went out at lunch and the MEL light was off.
I did some research on here and the web and found the accent is known for going through ignition coils as well as a possible design flaw with the ignition wire harness that could cause it to rub and become frayed. I ordered the wire harness from our local Hyundai dealer and got an ignition coil from autozone. I also figured that I might as well get 4 spark plugs and replace them while I was at it. I got the plastic cover off and removed the 10mm bolt from the #2 ignition coil but it was wedged in there and would not budge. The coils from 1, 3, and 4 popped out with no issues. I ended up using almost a half a can of PB Blaster and 2 hours before the coil finally came out. The problem that I'm now looking at is some of the plastic from the coil remained stuck to the metal in the holder. Is there anything that I can use to clean out that metal cylinder?
After examining the spark plug from the #2 cylinder I could tell it was fouled and needed replacing but my concern is now that that new coil will get stuck in much the same manner. I'm pretty sure that the coils were WELL past due for replacement as I'm not sure when they, with the spark plugs, were replaced last. I'm pretty sure it was before my wife and I got together so that's more than the recommended 60k replacement intervals. I've ordered 3 more ignition coils to replace all of them and reset the 60k replacement interval. Since I replaced the one coil and 4 spark plugs the problem seems to have been corrected and the car is running great.
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The 2011+ corollas have an option to have a usb/line in jack for the radio which is by the time clock. I have a 2010 corolla with just the line in jack aux input. Can I get the usb/line in jack part from the 2011 corolla and hook it up the wire that was originally connected to the line in jack connector? Or do I need part PT233-47100?
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Been all over the internet and have tried over a half a dozen or so different methods for programing a key but none have worked for me. I have already gotten the key cut at a locksmith, I just need to program it successfully.
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