Corolla :: Cannot Get 2006 Toyota XRS To Start
Jan 26, 2013
I have 2006 Toyota Corolla XRS, and I can't get it to start. Last week I tried to start my car, it just turned over and wouldn't fire. I left it for a couple days, and didn't try anything. I thought the fuel line might of been frozen, because I do live in Canada. This afternoon it warmed up, so I decided to try it out. It started the first try, no problem. I drove straight to the gas station, and bought some methyl hydrate to put in the tank. I drove around a bunch that day to mix it in. After leaving it for a few hours I went and tried to start my car, and it's doing the exact same thing again. Not sure what to do here.
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My 2006 would not start today after I got gas. I drove the car for an hour with no problems. I then stopped to get gas it would not start. I knew the engine was still warm because i had just stopped after driving for an hour. yet the temp gauge read cold. After a while of trying to start the car with it only cranking, not turning over I waited. After waiting a while the temp gauge started to work again showing a warm engine. The engine was also warm to the touch. I tried to start the car once the temp Gauge worked again and the car turned over with no problems and little effort.
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In my '06 Corolla I have a 1000w Kicker DX1000.1 amp to power my subs... When I am jammin' my lights dim and I know it is because my car cannot put out enough power. If I upgrade my measly stock alternator (80 amp) to a high output alternator (~200amp) will I have any problems? Will amps kill my cars electrical system or is it volts that wreck it?
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I drove home to get something and when I come back out my car won't start, my power windows are down and will not function, no dash lights when key is turned to on position and it will not turn over, no radio, nothing seems to be working, only light I see is the door open indicator light and the security light is blinking but go's out when I insert my key into the ignition
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I have a 2006 Corolla w/ 136K miles and a 2008 Versa w/ 81K. I'm looking to replace one of them, but am unsure which I should keep. The Corolla has been very reliable but is starting to need a lot of work (brakes/struts/etc.) and the Versa has been ok but overall has needed more maintenance.
Whichever one I keep I will probably drive until it's dead but I really don't know which I should stick with. My instinct tells me it should be the Corolla, but I don't want to keep having to sink money into a high milage vehicle. On the flip-side, I have never heard people speaking well of the Versa, and keeping it might end up costing me more and lasting a shorter time.
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I have a 1994 Toyota Corolla, automatic transmission. I went to start it this afternoon and it made a clicking sound a few times then went completely dead. When I jumped it, the dashboard panels, radio, lights, doors, etc. began to work, but it still would not start. I have replaced the alternator about 1.5 yrs ago and had the battery checked then too (it was fine then). I have had this problem before about a year ago, but it did start when jumped. I didn't leave my lights on or any doors open, so I don't think I drained the battery.
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I own a 2005 corolla. Has 112k on it. Having issue with car not starting after driven to store and parked. Happened 4 times. Let car sit and it starts. Puzzled to what issue can be.
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My 1981 Toyota Corolla wagon began to intermittently fail to start when warmed up about five years ago, and by fail to start I mean all lights come on but zero crank and no clicking sounds either. The amount of time I must wait for it to cool down and start again has varied between 20 minutes and today's record, 3 hours. This problem is common with older Toyotas and usually means the starter motor needs to be replaced, believe me I've looked into it, but here's the puzzler. I've replaced the starter motor two times and it has failed to solve the problem. I've replaced the ignition switch four times, same thing. I replaced the battery thinking maybe my old battery was losing mojo, but tears came to my eyes when it happened again.
I've studied how a hot starter head close to the exhaust manifold sees it's resistance go up, that the initial crank requires big voltage throughput. But an aluminum heat shield is built in and wrapping the starter in a heat blocking blanket is not physically possible with my configuration. What I haven't looked into yet is the clutch safety switch. I did receive the following bullet from a previous CarTalk query which read: "If a manual transmission, the clutch safety switch must be working and have low enough "on" resistance. Likewise with an automatic transmission, the neutral safety switch." I would love more detail about the clutch safety switch. I can add this interesting caveat to today's 3 hour record wait. I've gotten good a bump starting the car by myself. Today I bump started it in rolling reverse, re-parked it, and tried restarting again. Started right up when it wouldn't start moments before.
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The rattle appears as I rev the engine at a certain RPM. It happens in every gear. I had the car jacked up and the heat shields checked today when I had my tires rotated. Unfortunately for me my 2006 Toyota Corolla was NOT doing this when I was at the tire shop. I opened the hood and the sound is NOT coming from the engine. It sounds like it is coming from the middle of the car, or maybe the passenger side. I am stumped. I did all the maintenance on the car and everything.
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I have a 2006 Corolla LE with about 93,600 miles.
It was about 16 degrees Fahrenheit this morning and I drove on a cold start, and noticed the engine knock a bit when idling. Later noticed check engine light come on. After the car fully warmed up, 15 minutes later, the knocking seemed to subside.
I don't think I've replaced the spark plugs in the longest time, so could it be this issue?
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Today I turned on my car and heard a sound like water flowing down a pipe, then I started to feel the car getting warm, but no hot air coming from the vent. I felt the dash board and it felt very warm, and very warm air coming from the dashboard vent.What could cause this to happen? Its a 2006 toyota corolla LE.
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I went in today for a factor recall on my 2006 Toyota Corolla and when I was leaving I was told that my car needs to have the timing cover resealed. Additionally, the Drive belt is cracked and it was recommended to me to get a new belt. My air filter is dirty, I need manual transmission service, Fuel injection service, Fuel induction service and an AC refresh.
Being a college student I wanted to get some feedback on some of the stuff I could do myself. I already change my own motor oil and oil filter and anything I could do myself from the above recommendations from Toyota would really lower the cost.
Also I am not really sure about the timing cover reseal because I have not seen any leaks under my car. It may be that I do not understand what a timing cover leak is. And is this something that I should get fixed right away or can i afford to wait for a while (1 year or longer).
Also what is the difference between a fuel induction service and fuel injection service? Can i do it myself?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with 183,000 miles on it. My mechanic noticed that the right front strut was leaking oil. In addition to replacing it recommended getting a strut mount installed as well. Is this an necessary component at the age of my car or can just replacing the strut do the trick?
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Friday of last week my wife's Corolla refused to start. It cranked strongly but refused to catch. Fearing the worst my mechanic father-in-law assumed the timing belt had gone and we spent the weekend replacing that. The tensioner bearing had seized leaving the timing belt glazed but intact and, as far as we could tell, the timing was still correct. We replaced the belt and closed her back. Tired turning it over, nothing. Father-in-law noticed he didn't hear the fuel pump turn on when the key was placed in the ON position so he replaced that and the fuel filter. Turns out that the fuel pump only comes on when it's cranking? Who knew? We didn't. So that's been replaced.
At this point we have it towed to the shop where my father-in-law works(After this point all my information is second hand). We were going to let Big Al, their resident diagnostician, hook up his magic boxes and tell us what's wrong. Big Al suggests it's the distributor so that's changed but it still doesn't run. Big Al suggests that we set the timing incorrectly. That is torn apart again and, remember this is second hand information, "it was right but it was wrong". Whatever, they get it back together and it cranks and runs! Hooray!...but not so fast.
Next morning father-in-law arrives at work and gets bubkis. Cranks, sounds like it wants to start but won't. Somehow Big Al determines it's the PCM and that the car is getting "too much of a fuel pulse from the injectors" I ask if they are able to pull any codes from the computer and I'm told that they can't get any codes from ODBII scanner because it can't communicate with the car's computer. Also it's found that the catalytic converter is completely shot.
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My wife's '01 Corolla is having trouble starting. It doesn't turn over. At first I thought it might be the alternator, but when I prime it by pushing the gas, it starts right up. I'm thinking fuel pump or fuel line. It was also having some catalytic converter / 02 sensor issues, so wondering if that could be it too.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla with 25k miles on it.
Yesterday something strange happened for the first time. I unlocked the car (double-clicking the button to unlock all 4 doors, out of habit), got in, turned the key in the ignition, and the dash and console flickered repeatedly while I held down the ignition but the engine wouldn't turn and it wasn't make any noise suggesting it was trying to after an initial sound. I found that if I got out, locked the car, and unlocked it once, that the car would then start (although it had to turn for a couple seconds longer than usual).
Then, a couple hours later when I came back to the car, the same thing happened again.
Note that I could turn the radio on and lights on even though the car wouldn't start - so its not the battery - and the tank is full.
The car drove normally once it was running.
Today it seems to be behaving normally, but I'm wondering if I should be concerned - if I should take it to get checked out while I'm still able to drive it.
What might be going on? Could it have to do with the computer? The security system? Some sensor?
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My 98 corolla has set for a year plus and the serpentine belt is stuck and will not let the motor turn over fast enough to start. The battery is fully charged, the gas tank is full, the belt is in good shape. The car ran just fine the one year I owned it before sitting so long. I sprayed the belt with belt dressing. Could the alternator or something else be stuck? Should I remove the belt and then reinstall it?
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I own a Toyota corolla 2005 . I had 4 occasions where the car would not start after I turned it off. If I let it sit and come back car starts. The electrical system was checked out but pep boys with no issue.
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I have a 2005 Toyota corolla with a little over 200,000 miles on it. My car was struggling to start (but would start after several seconds of turning the key. I figured it needed a new battery because the other battery was old. I had the battery replaced and they cleaned the terminals because they told me they were corroded. With the new battery though, the car is still struggling to start. What could be the issue?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla. There are two plastic covers on the undercarriage of the vehicle in the front.. The front driver's side is loose; the oil change told me the little clips are broken and they used a "strap" to hook it back up. Well, on the Fla turnpike, the strap lasted about 30 minutes
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My 2006 Toyota Corolla will suddenly decelerate for a period of 3 to 5 seconds. No warning lights come on and the engine does not cut out. This has been happening sporadically for about 2 years. It will occur 2 ot 3 times in a day of driving. The dealership says they cannot diagnose the problem since they can't duplicate it. The ECM was replaced several months ago. The car has 120000 miles on it. I just got a new battery and transmission fluid.
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