Corolla :: 2014 Toyota - Lost Both Master Keys?
Aug 3, 2015
I have a leased 2014 Toyota Corolla L, which came with two keys. The keys are chipped, but have no buttons on it - I have to insert the key into the keyhole in order to open the door.
I lost one a while ago and now lost the other one. Prior to that, I had several spares made, which allow me to open the door only (not start the engine).
Toyota dealeship told that because I lost all the master keys, I now have to get 3 keys from them and reprogram the whole car ($400 total).
A local locksmith says that he can use a spare that I have and cut a blank chipped key and program it.
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My father took the car to the grocery store and lost the keys. When we got the car from the dealer we only got one set of keys and proceeded to order a second set. Forgot to pick the other set and when I did the key did not worked. They (the dealer) swapped the 2 last digits from the VIN number so they had to reorder the keys. In the meantime how do I open the car. It is a 2003 Passat V6.
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Well heck, the PO of the truck I just bought has lost the spare key to the ignition, and the key that opens the tailgate and unlocks the spare tire. First question, is the key to the tailgate and spare tire the same key or are they different?
Second question, is there any simple way to have new keys cut for these things?
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Question: Have 2014 Toyota Corolla LE that was manufactured March 2014 and has the original size 35 battery. I live in cold climate where it is anywhere from 10 below to 25 above in winter.
I had the battery checked (temp was 55 outside when checked) and they said it was 356 I assume CCA's and that was okay. Does that mean the battery should get through the winter? When should a person replace battery if they don't want to wait for it to fail?
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When I start my car (usually a cold start) I hear a TERRIBLE grinding-like noise. Other times it sounds like a shuffling noise. And then other times it's like its over-exerting itself trying to start up. I've taken it to the dealer many times as it's a 2014 Corolla. They have no answers. The claim it's just a characteristic of the car. I call bull. This isn't normal for any car. My car has a CVT transmission by the way. Could it be the starter? Spark plugs? Note: the noise is about 1000x worse in winter. Audio is attached in separate comment.
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Today I parked my 2014 Toyota Corolla while the shift was in drive and I turned off my engine. I let go of the brakes and it began to move backwards. I then realized what happened and shifted to Park and took out the keys and turned the engine back on to park it correctly. The on screen display seemed to restart or something when I did so. Will this hurt my vehicle? It is a CVT transmission by the way.
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Just picked up a used 09 corolla LE. It has power locks, but the keys are not integrated with buttons, nor are there seperate transmitters for keyless...
I figured it wasn't installed and I was just going to buy a viper kelyess kit until I looked at the trunk latch mechanism... there are wires plugging into what could be a solenoid right on the latch mechanism.
The latch is opened by a mechanical cable operated lever on the floor next to the drivers seat and by key from the outside on the trunk lid. Why would there be wires running to an electrical component on the trunk latch unless it is equipped with a remote release system?
So... my question is, how can I tell if my car has a keyless system installed, but not in use (no FOBs)... and if it is installed, is there a way to utilize it?
If it is not installed, I will just install a kit. I just didn't want to order a kit and find out is is already there.. What the heck does FOB stand for anyway?
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so I noticed that my muffler started to turn brownish on my 2014 Corolla. I am worried because my car only has only 480 miles. Is this normal, should I be worried?
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I recently bought a 2009 Toyota Corolla. The other day I noticed when I opened my door and the keys were still in the ignition, it either did not beep at all to warn me or only beeped once very briefly. I am almost certain I recall it beeping constantly until I pulled the keys out of the ignition. This feature has saved me from locking my keys in my car a few times and would like it to work again.
There are no other issues that I have had with the car, the ignition works fine as well as everything else.
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I purchased a 2014 Toyota Corolla Le Eco Plus last May. The car rode FINE for a few months, but then I began to notice that the ride feels completely rough/harsh. It's almost like a jittery feeling. After researching I've found reviews that said "the Corolla's ride is harsh and unpleasant," but to me it feels like it's gradually getting worse. That has me thinking something is wrong with the car itself, not just that the Corolla in general rides rough. I've taken it in to the dealership multiple times, but they say nothing is wrong. I honestly don't know what to do. What could it be? Struts? Shocks? I mean, it's BRAND NEW.
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I bought my 2014 Corolla new a little over 3 years ago. Yesterday, when I was leaving work to head home I went to start my car and I was just met with my starter making a loud buzzing noise. My lights in my car, car fob, and etune radio were all working properly, but the car was just not able to start! My coworker told me that he heard of a trick where if you knock on the starter with something while trying to start it, it might give it enough of a kick to get going. Whether or not it was coincidence, it did work.
I was able to drive home, about 15 minutes (still daylight, did not need car lights), with no trouble. When I got home I turned my car off and waited for a few seconds and tried to start again. It worked, but it sounded like it struggled. I did it one more time and it failed with that same noise again. I resolved that I would just go get a new battery in the morning.
In the morning, my car was able to start, albeit with some struggle again. I made it all the way to work, and over lunch I was able to start it again and drive it to AutoZone to have them test the battery starter alternator. They told me the battery was too depleted to test it, so I went across the street to Walmart and bought a new battery. After replacing it, the car started like a champ as expected, and I drove back to Autozone to have them test my alternator and starter. The starter came back good, but they said that there was a fault in the test with the alternator. I gave them my old battery and asked them to trickle charge and test it just to see if it happened to still be a good battery that was just losing charge, or if it really was just a dying battery.
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My master window switch stop working. All of the other window switches work from the other doors. The driver side one will not work any of the windows. the power lock works but I cannot control any of the windows from the driver side.
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My 2003 Toyota 4 Runner with 104K miles recently started showing a brake light off and on. The brake fluid reservoir was at the minimum level and there was some residue leaking from the bottom near a silver disc. Took it to a mechanic and was told it was most likely the master cylinder leaking brake fluid. Is this normal wear and tear or is it unusual in this vintage vehicle? I do not notice any brake slippage at this point. Should I take this to the dealer and ask why this master cylinder is faulty? I thought Toyotas were long life vehicles?
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I have a 2011 F150 FX4 Ecoboost w/ 37K. I recently had to have the master cylinder replaced along w/ all my brake pads because it was not disengaging the calipers properly, so all of my pads were prematurely worn and cracked. I was wondering, it seems like this shouldn't happen on a truck this "young".
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The last few days I have noticed that after starting my car my master warning light appears for about 15 seconds and the disappears. Seems to stay illuminated longer than normal. Few questions....
Does the master warning light illuminate every time the car starts?
Does the warning light stay indicated for a while before going off or should it appear and disappear within a few seconds?
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An attachment point, on the front lower frame, broke, allowing the window to drop. I had the frame welded and put it all back together. The window went up and fine. The next time I tried to lower the windows, neither side would work. I checked the fuses. They were all good. I changed out the driver's side master control switch because some of the button contacts were corroded. This did not work. The window lock button is on the off position and the power door locks, which are on the master control switch, work fine. Could it be the relay?
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There is an air leak and hissing sound at the connection of the master cylinder to the brake booster. Brake pedal travels nearly to the floorboard before engaging the brake. What is the problem and how can I fix it myself? (Special note: the brake fluid was very low and is now topped off to the maximum level . Adding the brake fluid caused very little change to the brake pedal travel.)
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Have a 2010 Matrix with the blulogic added by the dealer, has worked fine till last week when all sound cut out. Radio lights, shows station, volume, i even get sound for 5 seconds when starting, then nothing. If I play music thru my iPhone, it works perfect. What changed, seems like a setting of some sort?
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My 2004 Corolla (1.8L) has 135K miles and just died on the freeway. It has proper oil and coolant levels and never overheated. It has only had oil changes and no other repairs. On the freeway going 60mph it lost power and stopped. I was able to start it and creep off the freeway. It starts but has a terrible klunking noise coming from the engine. Sounds like rocks inside. What could be wrong? and how do I determine the possible problem?
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