Corolla :: 2003 Toyota Developed A Sound While Driving - Idles Fine
Dec 22, 2013
My 03 Corolla S - 5 Speed has developed a sound while driving, only when giving it gas. The sound goes away when I press in the clutch. It doesn't make any unusual sounds while parked and idling.
The sound, sounds like a knocking noise. At least to me that's what it sounds like. My car has 156k miles on it.
The car idles fine, rpm's are good on while driving, temps good and still gets really good gas mileage.
Does it have something to do with my clutch, since the noise goes away when I take my foot off the gas, or press the clutch in?
Is there something I should be checking? All my fluids are good, brake/clutch, oil, transmission fluid, radiator, etc.
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Just as the title says, 214k great shape just wont get going more you mash the less it goes.... fuel pump already replaced, can undo battery and take a while to reset feels to do fine then goes back to bogging down... TPS ? idle air control?
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I recently took my 2010 Corolla CE to my dealership and had some minor work done on the brakes (rust cap cleaned, calipers machined as well)
The new problem now is that I hear a ticking sound while driving as if something is touching.. The Technician at Toyota said there was still 70% on the pads and 80% left on the rear shoes.. Encountered a ticking sound while driving along?
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I have a Toyota Corolla 2010 LE. When I'm driving, no matter how fast I drive, I feel a vibration sound. When I press brake pedal, it's worse than driving. I recently replaced front rotors and brake pads. I also replaced whole tires a month ago.
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I'm having a bit of trouble with my fathers '03 Ranger Edge 4.0L. It has about 100k miles on it, and we keep it very well maintained. This is the first major problem we've had with it.
When the problem first occured, it had been driven about 30 miles on the highway and about 5 miles after getting off the highway, he pulled up to an intersection and stopped. As he started accelerating again, it all of a sudden started sputtering, surging (almost exactly as if it were running out of gas), and then stalled. It continues to exhibit this behavior. It will start and idle fine, but struggle and then stall when given any amount of throttle. It's also an automatic transmission if that makes any difference.
Fast forward to this past week after we had it towed home. We have checked the fuel pressure, and its dead on at about 64psi. We changed the fuel filter, changed the PCV valve, changed the upstream O2 sensor, put in a new air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, and cleaned the intake of the throttle body. We're now at a loss as to what could be causing the problem. The CEL is not on, and there are no codes being shown when we plugged it in. We also thought it may have been bad gas, so we drained the tank and put fresh gas in from our preferred station. The plugs and wires are also fairly new, only about 4k miles on them.
Are we missing anything here? What else we could try? The absolute last resort is taking it to a shop, we're going through a rough patch with finances.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla with about 170,000 miles. It idles rough and at about 50-55 mph it loses power and runs very poorly, like it is not banging on all cylinders.
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
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This corolla is about 10-15 years old, i don't know how old. Again, its a manual transmission. It started today, when the car idles, the engine revs up a bit like a hum. I wasn't pressing the gas petal or anything and it just revs by it self. My dad says it was probably the engine was too cold and it is just warming itself. Then my dad said the car mechanic said its the gas sensor? He also said the sensor cost about 200 and with labor job, 280$. good deal?
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So my "farm truck" is idling very rough, to the point that sometimes that it stalls out. At high idle it runs fine but when its at a idle its very rough. Its been running fine until probably a month ago or so and its just getting worse. What it could be? I am thinking it might be that something is dirty but i just dont know where to start with figuring out what the problem is.
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I have a 01 f-150, 4.6L, with 160k miles on it. Symptoms: It idles fine with an occasional surge. It sputters in all gears like a misfire (all plugs and COPS replaced 2 months ago). Sometimes it stalls out going down highway or as I turn in my driveway. It also seems like its slipping a little without the "hard jerking into gear". Occasionally the rpm meter will peg low and then return to normal.
The only code that I received was P1451. I changed the canister vent solenoid but the symptoms remain. I've checked voltage on the TPS (the variable voltage checked out but I didn't get the 5V ref. voltage). I've cleaned the MAF sensor. I've also changed the fuel filter. I've resistance checked the connector to the PCM and found several pins that are at ground. I'm not sure what to do next.
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I have a 2002 F150 super cab with the 5.4 liter v8. I hit a large water puddle on my way to work Tuesday. I was going faster than I probably should have been. After hitting the puddle the truck lost power. It idles fine but as soon as I put it in gear it sputters and has no power. Also, the O/D drive light is now flashing. What might be going on with it.
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2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
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330,000 km on car. I drove 45 minutes when battery light came on on and car engine stalled when making a left turn (fuel light had just come on too but not empty) and restarted on own, drove 10 minutes and it stalled again, so I pulled over and restarted. Drove 45 minutes home. No issues since. Shop says 10 year old battery and alternator are testing fine, though they suggest replacing alternator as it may be going. Could there be other electrical issue since the issue is more intermittent? Car would not stall immediately if alternator failing I would think - should run on battery for a bit and not restart. Drive maybe 400km per month and it sits for 10 days at a time.
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So, I don't know if any of these problems are related but a few months ago, I accidentally put diesel fuel in my car. We got it flushed out (used some fuel injector cleaner and filled the tank up to dilute what fuel was left after i siphoned it) and my car was doing fine. Then my car started running really shitty, just taking forever to accelerate, revving really hard when I gassed, but not going fast at all, so we changed the spark plugs, oil, and transmission fluid and now it drives forward just fine, but will not reverse. all it does is move forward a bit then stop. It will drive in neutral up to 20-25 mph. What might be wrong??
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I have an '09 Corolla S with the non-JBL sound system, 6 disk in-dash changer and 6 speakers. I am getting no sound from the speakers except a small burst of static when I turn the ignition on and once in a while sporadic static. The Radio is still playing CD's, FM, Etc, but no sound. All fuses are good and the clock works. I disconnected the factory iPod interface and still nothing. I also tried a different aftermarket HU, but still no sound... I'm on the road all the time so I'm over 50,000k and there is no warranty left on the radio. I've also torn the dash out checking wires and connections and can't seem to find anything abnormal.
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I recently bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla. I have been having some issues with the A/C. The A/C seems to work fine when the car is moving but when it is idle it gets warmer. I have recently gotten the freon checked and they put in some more but that didn't work, same problem still happening. Somebody told me that i need a extra fan which didn't make sense to me. Last resort will be to take it to the dealership to have them check. Once again the A/C blows cold air when the car is going over 50 MPH.
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I have a 04 ls that has been with a mechanic who gives up. The car idles fine but has no power or acceleration all COP's have been changed. Also the computer is not throwing any codes. Mechanic says that cylinder 3,2,1 have sever mis fire and are pretty much dead but dose not know why.
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I have a 2009 Corolla XLE with 207,000 miles on it. For the past few thousand miles, the car has developed a tick when the engine is under load. It cannot be heard when the transmission is in Neutral. The car runs fine at driving speeds, but often idles rough and even dies at stop signs. A local shop says that it needs a timing chain and a phaser. Most of these miles are easy highway miles, I am a little disappointed that the engine would need such a big repair. Anyway, the Haynes Manual claims that the manufacturer recommends pulling the engine / transaxle assembly before changing the timing chain. Need changing the timing chain sprockets with the engine in the car?
2ZR-FE 1.8 vin U engine
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I have a 99 jimmy replaced rotary button, cap, plugs, wires. The truck doesn't seem to run right. It idles fine but when in load it starts to sputter a bit. Going down the road between 2000 and 2500 rpms the tach jumps a bit. Now if I put it to the floor the truck runs out fine.
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Just recently my Prius Taxi with 340,000+Km has developed a little problem,it starts fine but after 20-30 seconds it begins to feel like it's not running properly on all four cylinders,if i go to the exhaust pipe it seems like it's spluttering slightly.
Yesterday I changed the plugs,checked air filter and all connections,everything fine, when I accelerate it feels hesitant but after the car gets up to temp it seems to go away,it only happens when i start it first thing or if it's been left for a few hours, it's never had the throttle body cleaned and I'm wondering if what I'm describing is a symptom of this?
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I used a OBD scan tool and all it told me was my idle air control system rpm is lower than expected and my evaporative system has a high purge flow. What this means, can I fix it or do I have to send it to a shop. Also when idling the short term fuel trim 1 is at -3% whatever that means.
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