Corolla :: 2000 Toyota - Black Smoke When Car Is Under Load
Dec 16, 2011
I have a 2000 toyota corolla, with 1.8 16 valve. 105,000 miles, manual trans.. Just bought this veh. says misfire cylinder 4. So here is what I have done.
I started trouble shooting. swapping coils from cylinder 4 to other cylinders to see if the code follows after clearing it. No, stayed at 4..
So I moved on to the fuel injector. I did the same thing to see if it followed.. no stayed at cylinder 4. I changed the plugs, stilll misfire..
I did a compression check, I have 170 on 1,2,3, and on cylinder 4 I have 0. Yep, none...
I have some black smoke when the car is under load, as in acceleration, shaking and constant miss. lack of power... Trying to determine whether it is the rings or valves or what.. I took valve cover off and checked for broken spring, and they all seem ok. No oil in my coolant or vise versa.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla LE that ran very well until about a month ago. It has about 146,000 miles on it. A month ago it started hesitating from a standstill and the engine ran extremely roughly when trying to move the car. But when I put it in low gear it did much better, although not great! When in Drive it barely moved the car at all and would frequently stop running completely.
When I took it to an auto parts store they hooked it up to their computer and it read out that I needed either spark pugs, spark plug wires, or a new coil. I have replaced the plugs, but that made little difference. I then took it to another auto repair place that told me that it was either a problems with valves, or a 'problems in the lower engine'. I don't know what that latter problems means but either way it sounds like it will be very expensive to fix.
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Was hauling a bobcat this AM and noticed something odd in my rear view. Under steady accelleration (either light or heavy foot pedal pressure - steady either way), the exhaust would puff out sporadic extreme dark clouds of smoke. The puffs weren't fast like every cylinder rotation.. but every second or so.. puff of very thick black smoke mixed in with the expected black smoke we see.
Truck has 350k miles with regular oil changes. Year ago someone hooked the injectors up to the computer software (buzz test) and all of them checked out to be in very good condition.
The same tech pointed out some dark blowby at the uppipe on the back of the engine. Other than that the truck is in pretty good condition for its age. What could the sporadic very thick/dark puffs of black smoke indicate?
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2000 Jetta (build date 10/99) 2.8L V6
Pours out heavy black smoke.
New Air Cleaner, pulled plugs, all smell of gasoline, they don't look black, like I normally would expect gas fouled plugs to look. I read that these are prone to clogged fuel injectors? If so, all 6 at once? Also told that the timing slipping can cause this.
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I have a 2000 E350 15 passenger Ford Van with 125,000 miles on it. I am burning a quart every 500 miles. The van produces a cloud of black smoke occasionally when I start it. Maybe once every 10 starts or so. It seems to be more prevalent when the van is parked with the engine downhill. About a year ago, I switched to high mileage oil. Could this be part of the problem? Or is there anything other than a rebuilt engine that will work?
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My 2000 corolla has about 180,000 miles and loses power when I put it in gear. But the engine revs just fine when it is in neutral or park. What could be wrong?
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I've been told by friends driving behind me that every time I accelerate I emit a plume of black smoke followed by a stream of black colored "water". I checked today by having the wife rev the engine to 4.5k...sure enough, black water shoots out of my exhaust, probably 3 oz. I also see a black puff of smoke which I assume is more normal than the water. Is this commonplace ?
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Ok I'm working on a 2000 7.3 on a F550 truck was running but had no power so we changed out all the injectors and glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo now there is no start it turns over and were getting black smoke from the tail pipe. What is going on with it?
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I have a 1989 Toyota Corolla SR5 AllTrac wagon, manual trans with 160k+ miles. It had been running ok - until I got an oil change. I am wondering if I should do the repairs to get it inspected - new tires, battery, driver-side mirror, and rust repair (small hole near rear wheel well, driver's door; sunroof has rust - that's not an inspection item but needs to be done). The rear-wheel differential has been making grinding/whining noise for about a year; it's probably time to rebuild. Back to the oil change - my car ran great, got the oil changed at Monro; then the car started dripping oil, then was very difficult to start and stalled at stops, even brief ones, also when any gas was applied.
I noticed a light grey smoke from the car on start-up, which went away. I first thought it just needed a tune-up, but when I saw the smoke, I thought there might be oil leaking into the valves. I love this car, but the body is really in need of work. The underneath is pretty solid. In the meantime, I still need a car. I thought of getting a small used gas-saving sedan, and putting some money into the All-Trac to use it for gardening, hauling stuff, etc. , and actually, even though a wagon, it's fun to drive. Can you tell I love my Rosie? My other option is to buy a car ... ick... I don't want car payments. I'm looking at a 2006 Subaru Forester with 42k today, am a bit wary of Subaru repairs, and the steep sticker price.
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I have a 2001 toyota corolla with a manual transmission that I just bought that has about 130,000 miles on it. It runs very well except for it runs out of oil about every 150 to 200 miles. The car does not seem to be leaking oil, however revving the engine in the slightest causes the car to smoke from the exhaust pipe. We tried changing the oil as well as putting in high mileage oil and sea foam motor treatment. This worked slightly but not much.
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My mechanic cannot figure out what's wrong with my car My car is a manual trans 1996 Toyota Corolla with almost 154K miles. I had the oil changed two weeks ago (about 1000 miles with my commute), and at that time, I let my mechanic know that it's been losing oil and so check it over. At that time, he changed the oil, cleaned the engine, and added a dye to the oil to show up any leaks.
I took it in this past Thursday for him to locate the leaking, and the mechanic let me know that 1) It came in mostly dry (no oil), 2) there was no visible leaking except for a seepage around the oil pan, which he says could not account for the loss of 4 quarts of oil in two weeks, and 3) it's not burning it out in the exhaust system.
A bit of the history of the car. I got it when it was at 59K, used, and there were a number of things wrong with it that I didn't discover until later, such as that no maintenance had been done to it at all in the 60K someone else had owned it. It came to me needing a timing belt, brakes, and an engine and radiator flush (the radiator fluid was brown instead of green).
At one point at around 70K, as a stupid teenager, I did let it run dry. The oil light came on, I panicked, shut it off, dumped in two quarts (which brought it to full on the dipstick, which I thought was weird), and took it straight for an oil change, where they told me it was dry, which was odd, because I'd just put 2 quarts in it.
After that, there were no issues until it hit about 120K. At that point, I started smelling burning oil and there was smoke coming from under my hood, so I towed it to my mechanic at the time. He replaced the valve cover gasket, the rear main seal, and the head gasket (with engine block machining and all). That more or less cleared the problem up, but then I took it across the country on a 3K road trip, and it ended up accidentally running dry again. Oil light came on, I shut it off, dumped in oil, took it for a lube job.
Since that time, it's been occasionally throwing me an oil light when I go downhill (I figure that this is because it's low but not out, and the change in pitch reduces the pressure?). Each time it does this, I've shut it off, coasted to a stop, dumped in 2 quarts (which brings it to full on the stick), and gone on, berating myself. These times have become more frequent, however, even though I now check the oil regularly.
So before I endure the deserved lectures about being dumb, yes, I blame myself, but regardless of my lazy maintenance, it's becoming ridiculous. My car is now finding a way to lose a gallon of oil over the course of 1000 miles, with no discernible leak or consumption.
Also, why my oil light comes on when it's only 2 quarts down on the stick sometimes, and then sometimes goes almost dry without throwing the oil light? I just got it back with the oil topped up, more dye in the engine, and instead of going for 2 weeks, I'm going for 1 week to see if maybe he can catch it in the act of learning this magic trick of vanishing oil.
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2000 toyota corolla feels like it has no brakesI had the brake master cylinder replaced a few months ago - so that's not itThe mechanic also replaced the shoes - so that's not itAfter I told him it still feels like the is low etc. he adjusted them or something - so that's not itIt still feels the sameWhat should I do?
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I have a 2000 Corolla with 51k miles that I bought a couple of months ago.
Things I replaced:- both front ball joints- both front CV axles (half shaft)...previous left front one was leaking- all struts (complete struts that included coil, strut, mount)- all sway bar end links- 4 new tires (only put 200 miles on them)- balance and alignment - Firestone checked for bent rims - none found- Made sure all 4 PSI levels are 30
Before the new tires, there was a vibration at 60-70mph, after the new tires, there is a vibration at 40-50..seems to go away at 60-70mph. When braking, the steering wheel shimmied (turn left/right short distances rapidly)...replacing the ball joints fixed that....the mechanic also tightened the front control arms..that could've fixed it too.
When going very slowly over a flat road, I can feel the front left tire "hop" very slightly. By hop, I mean that it is not round like (seems like a high spot). I jacked all 4 wheels and checked for any amount of play - none.
Could this be an out of balance (even though I put 4 new tires) or control arm issue? Maybe the control arm bushings are gone and it allows vertical movement during load?
When turning the steering wheel left, it also makes a "pop" sound which is definitely coming from the strut mount area...might be related.
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My 2000 Corolla CE does not have ABS, I've heard the correct way to brake is to pump the brakes. Should I press the brake slowly and then depress fully and then press again OR should I press the brake, depress half way, and press again? How fast should I pulsate it? My commute involves a lot of braking and I don't want the rotors to become warped.
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I have a 2000 Toyota corolla with about 170,000 miles and it is using about one quart of oil every 500 miles. The last couple places I took it to said the compression was bad in the number 4 cylinder. Another place said it was a leaking head gasket. Which is most likely, and is it worth getting it repaired given its age and mileage?
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I drove my car to the store today without any problems. When I started it back up again, I noticed a clicking sound. At first I thought that maybe I had turned on the turn signal or the emergency blinkers, but neither was on. I turned off the car and restarted it. The clicking restarted when I turned the car back on. I tried turning off my headlights, and the clicking got louder. I turned them back on and it got quieter.
At that point I decided to just drive home. The clicking stopped and restarted several times during my trip. I checked the oil, and it's fine. What could be making the noise?
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Car is a 2000 Corolla with 62k miles. My rear brake light (driver side) went out (pretty sure it is the bulb). 2 months ago the blinker relay went out and I replaced it.
Do most mechanics have the bulb on hand?
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I own a 2000 Toyota Carolla, in reasonably good shape (95,000 miles) with no rust on the body (it was a Texas car until last year). This problem happened in Texas, on the unusual times that it froze, and in Michigan, obviously very often. The car freezes: the doors edges, locks, latches, wipers, wiper fluid, windows, and trunk freeze solid. I've tried using the lock de-icers, hand sanitizer, WD-40, hairdryers, special fluid for the wipers etc. all to no avail. I live in an apartment complex so I do not have a heated garage at my disposal. This is a very annoying problem, which often means I cannot use my car, even though the rest of it works perfectly. I've searched the Internet for more answers, but find none. Clearly, there is moisture inside the car that freezes up in cold weather... but I can't imagine how or why. I've never spilled anything in there, and it's had a long, hot summer of drying out if there had been something there. But on the first freeze of the year, viola: no frigging way can I get into my beloved little auto.
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I inherited my Mother's 2000 Corolla CE with low mileage. I know that since the car was knew, she had the dealer check on why the horn did not blow every time she pressed it. I do not have those repair papers, so I do not know what they did to the car. Again, after each of 3 visits to the dealer, the horn would work for a few months. Finally, she gave up. Arizona does not test the horn, anyway. So, now, I am having the problem. (Also in my V90 Volvo post). Two cars with no horns.. Short of pulling out the air bag and the wires? Bad ground somewhere?
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Toyota Corolla 2000. 77k miles
About a little under a month ago, when my dad tried starting the car, it would start up, make a weird rattling sound like "kakakaka" and then when you press the gas pedal, the car will shut down.
When we do get the car to work, and it starts riding for around 30 miles, the car seems to struggle to maintain speed and get faster even when the pedal is pressed further.
An engine light was shown for either P170, P171 or P0171 (reading off a paper and cant tell what the number is.) We took it to two technicians and neither could find what the problem is.
The light will occasionally turn off and when if you drive for like 20 miles itll come back on.
The first mechanic we took it to they removed and replaced the air/fuel ratio sensor. As well as put in a "Bosch Oxygen Sensor". Got charged 300 for this, and the lights still came on, problems were still there.
Went to another mechanic and he straight up couldnt find anything wrong so he didnt try replacing anything.
A family friend recommended a new battery, so we purchased a new one and put it in, but problems were still there.
Now today, after the car being inactive for around 10 hours, it completely failed to start. When you put the key in, it doesnt even make the usual sounds. We tried jump starting it with cables which did work, but then when we got home, turned off the car, it wouldnt turn back on. The doors wont lock (if that matters), the little light inside the car still shines though (if that matters)
Is this something I can solve, or should I take to another mechanic? If so, is it possible to bring it directly to a Toyota dealership or something? Because for the second mechanic he said he couldnt find anything because the parts were so old..
Today I took out the battery and cleaned off all the corrosion on it and put the battery back in. I tried to start up the car and it did work! I then turned the car off, and then put all the tools back inside, and when I went back out to try it again, it does not start up. However, when I put the key in, it made the usual (ding ding ding) noise, and it showed the seatbelt light. when I tried to start the car, it showed the Check Engine light, Low engine oil pressure light, as well as Charging system warning light.
I try a few more times, and after around 3 times, when I put the key in, it no long made a sound, and when I tried to start it, the lights were very very dim.
I tried my last time when it caused a spark on the positive connector.
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Car is a 2000 Corolla CE with 4-spd auto. Is it possible to rotate one side of the front tire while the car is jacked up? How about if it is in neutral with the parking brake on?
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