2000 Corolla with 68K miles. Last year, replace turn signal relay and AC relay.
When I drive now, the brake light in the dashboard comes on randomly. It looks like it happens most when accelerating. It stays on for about 20 seconds then disappears and comes on again when I brake or slow down.
I checked the brake fluid, it is fine, no leaks. What it could be? Maybe a fuse/relay?
So I was on my way home i was 2 miles away from my house and my abs light and e-brake light randomly go on. I got home and turned car off and back on and it was still there.
View 14 RepliesMy 2000 Corolla CE does not have ABS, I've heard the correct way to brake is to pump the brakes. Should I press the brake slowly and then depress fully and then press again OR should I press the brake, depress half way, and press again? How fast should I pulsate it? My commute involves a lot of braking and I don't want the rotors to become warped.
View 10 RepliesMy dad said his 2009 RX350, he noticed that the brake light on the dash randomly comes on and off sometimes now.
I've read that a lot of the earlier models had an issue with the brake light switch that was causing the VSC, brake, and ABS lights to come on, but in his case it is only the brake light alone that is lighting up.
On my '06 Sonata GL the third center brake light does not work all the time. I say all the time because it has a mind of its own; it works when it wants to. I have changed the bulb and it was working perfectly fine for months and months until recently when it suddenly began to act up.
View 8 RepliesMy father has a 2003 Mercury Sable. Earlier this month we took it in to have them check out a burning smell. They said the oil pan gasket was leaking and needed to be replaced. This led to an entire week's worth of work to get the exhaust system down to get to the oil pan gasket. Since that repair, the parking brake light will come on at random times while driving. It doesn't stay on too long and I can't seem to find a pattern to what triggers it to come on.
View 5 RepliesSometimes when I start my car, parking brake light fails to go off. I know this is usually indicative of low brake fluid, but mine is not low. I rarely use the brake so I don't think it's the parking brake switch either as it only happens if the parking brake is not engaged. Never happens on the occasional use of it.
Restarting doesn't seem to work unless I set the brake, restart, then disengage it. Very strange problem. Not a big deal but is a bit perplexing. I never see a CEL or any codes generated at all.
The power locks started locking themselves randomly while I'm driving. First, the CARGO DOOR AJAR warning light comes on, then the locks click. They don't unlock, just lock. I've hit the unlock button, then they lock by themselves again. The dome light was also coming on, until I pressed the DOME LIGHT OVERRIDE button.
View 9 RepliesSo I have a 2000 6.8l V10 that I recently swapped the engine on (reman). While I was doing that, I decide to do some LED upgrades. I swapped out the turn signals, side marker lights, and headlights with LEDs. I added some LED fog lights, and I have a Rigid light bar.
I replaced pretty much everything on attached to the engine aside from the alternator (it didn't give me any problems, so I figured it was good).
When the truck is running with the lights off, there are 6 LED strips running as DRLs, when the lights are switched on, the side marker, turn signal and headlights turn on. When I switch to high beams, my fogs turn on. The light bar is on its own switch.
During the day with the headlights off, I dont notice the battery/charging system indicator light turn on at all. At night, when I flip the headlights on, I've noticed that it sporadically and randomly flash. The flashing indicator light does not appear to be associated with bumps or anything.
It does not seem to matter if I have just the DRL/low beams on, DRL/high beams+fogs, or DRL/high beams+fogs + light bar on. The indicator light comes and goes with the same random consistency regardless of how much power I am sucking from the alternator/battery. The RPM's of the engine also appear to have no effect on when/how often the indicator light comes on...
I drove for over an hour last night, and the voltage gauge never changed, so the battery does not *seem* to be draining (~1 year old Optima yellow). I added an extra ground wire going from the battery to the engine about a year ago (long before this LED upgrade) to ensure a good ground, so I dont *think* the wires are the issue. Is my alternator suddenly going bad? Any higher output ones I could replace it with? Is it a simple fix that does not require a new alternator?
Here are some pics of the lights:
(This was before the fog light install)
These lights only come on when the truck is in reverse:
2000 Ranger 2wd 3.0 ... I bought my truck last summer for $1k from my neighbor, it has hit a deer so the grill is busted,front drivers fender bent up and bumper is bent all to heck. The old girl is rock solid reliable though and gets decent mileage with cruise heat and ac so I'm happy.
Anyways on to the point, I am having two big issues with it, the check engine light randomly comes on and causes it lose power sometimes at others you don't notice it. I have not been able to get codes read because it goes off every single time I go to someplace with a scanner. The light will usually go off if you floor it for a long stretch maf maybe?
The other issue is the transmission, I don't know for sure which tranny it is but the overdrive button does not work at all even though the fuses are good and when I drive down the highway second gear you have to let off for it to shift sometimes ( I've been leaning towards the valve body gasket for that) and lately it has started a horrible vibration kicking out of overdrive or just downshifting on hills etc.?
I forgot to mention it has 255k miles on it and I don't know the history besides the balljoint I replaced this week and radiator when I bought it.
I have a 2000 f250 with the 7.3 and 181,000 miles on it, recently got stuck in the snow (in 2wd because i forgot to lock the hubs) and the rear wheels did alot of spinning. Now i randomly have the OD light start to blink, sometimes its a half a blink, sometimes it'll stay on for a few seconds, itll do it randomly while crusing down the road at a constant speed, also noticed my rpms fluctuate a tad at idle.
View 4 RepliesI've recently noticed that the right brake light on my 2003 corolla is not working. When I turn on the light, all the bulbs in the rear right seems to light up (except turn signal of course). when I pressed on the brake, the right brake bulb doesn't get brighter like the left one. Two questions:
1. Am I crazy when I see the brake light bulb turn on with other bulbs (i.e. is it suppose to be on when light is turn on and just get brighter when brake is pressed)?
2. Is this a burnt out bulb that I can easily replace myself or potentially a wiring problem that I may need a mechanic for?
Car is a 2000 Corolla with 62k miles. My rear brake light (driver side) went out (pretty sure it is the bulb). 2 months ago the blinker relay went out and I replaced it.
Do most mechanics have the bulb on hand?
I haven't checked the fuse yet so it may just be that. The inspection guy thought that it might be the seller "unhooked" it. How I might look further into this? Where would it be "unhooked" from?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 coroola "S" and the ABS and Brake light have come on recently and it seems to drive fine. I have read the codes and the are : P000A and P050B
View 4 RepliesMy dad has a 2010 Matrix base model, and we can't seem to get the driver's side burnt out bulb out. I did a Google/Bing search, as well as Youtube, but most results were about the Corolla, and the Matrix and Corolla have 2 different tail lights.
View 2 Replies2009 Corolla LE 1.8, Auto Trans
I went in for an oil change. The following day my ABS and brake light came on. I looked under the hood and the brake fluid was totally empty! I called the place back and said "Don't you check fluids? It's bone dry".. well maybe bone dry is not totally true, it might have been lubricated in the reservoir still, but definitely empty. I put fluid in and the light is still on.
So, I went back. They say problem with my rear ABS speed sensor. After doing some Google work on my cell, I thought it was expensive so I'm going elsewhere.
I've got 100,500 miles so I'll probably get spark plugs also.
But anyway, they did that oil change and at the same told me my transmission fluid is dark. I'm just wondering if I should be worried about doing a transmission flush and fill.. I hear conflicting stories from all over the web.. one place says this, one says that, one says this type of oil is best, etc...
My Toyota Corolla 2000, 123,000 miles, Mass license plate, still getting 34 miles per gallon, has had check engine light on and off for a year.Failed inspection this June.
First garage in Somerville, without doing more than getting the three readings above, said catalytic converter was needed $350 plus labor.I was unable to do the work then and returned to NYC and job. Took to another mechanic recently to get fixed (as I wasn't returning to Mass for a while)and got only PO 171. I mentioned the other readings; they kind of scoffed it off.Trying to save me money (I guess), they cleaned the MAF filter and fuel ejectors for $200. Looked like it was fixed. A week later check engine light came on again and when I brought in found the PO 420 reading. They did not tell me if other computer read-outs were coming up as well.
Now they want to leave the oxygen sensor in front but change the one behind. Put in a newcatalytic converter $539 {they had quoted me $238 but it wasn't an OEM one I guess and they said they wouldn't warranty anything but this expensive one), charge me$137 for the oxygen sensor190 laborplus taxfor a total of a whooping $946!
I am afraid they will do this very expensive job and the check engine light will come on and htey will say o its something else.how can i be sure? also I was reading for a catalytic converter to go bad, something has caused it...what would that be? how to find out. Do they need to do the diagnosis with gas analyzer etc?
Why I spend a huge amount for an old car that is running well, not losing gas mileage, but perhaps is a bit slower on power.
Audi A4 2000 with 200K on the odometer. The alarming flashing BRAKE light came on and the ABS light. My mechanic says they will need to replace the module (not cheap) but I wonder if I can just keep driving anyhow until inspection is due––hey, that's six months away. The car has great pep; the motor is good, the brakes are fine (recently replaced the rear brakes) so if I am just conscious of the lack of ABS––is there any problem here?
View 1 RepliesHere are the vitals: Passat, 2000, 1.8T, 39.000miles.
Here is the problem: Brake light will come on, flashing. ABS light on, fix. After 30/45 sec the brake light and the ABS light will turn off.( I do get the "STOP" message) The ASR/EDL warning light will remain on until I turn the engine off.
Next time I turn the car on, and after what appear to be a "drive circle" the "phenomena" repeats it self.
So I just bought a 2000 Passat v6. It's not my first VW so I do know a few things but here is my problem.
The abs light is on and the brake light is flashing and in the little display in the middle, it says brake fault stop see owners manual.
Was I told it's a abs sensor?