Corolla :: 1999 - High Oil Consumption / 3 Quarts Low
Dec 30, 2012
I have a 1999 toyota corolla I just bought it for my daughter for her first car the only thing I've noticed is that it only had 1000 miles on it since I changed the oil and that it was 3 quarts low? Not sure what happened but I checked it again after her second 1000 miles and it was again 3 quarts low. The car does not leak oil and does not smoke
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord. It consumes oil but is not leaking, the compression is good, and there is no sign of burning. What could it be? Might sludge result in the problem?
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My 09 matrix is using about 3 quarts of oil every 5000 miles. I bought the car new and it has 114,000 miles on it. I don't notice any smoke or leaks anywhere.
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Alrighty let me see if I can get everything. 01 6speed 450hp at rear wheels. Comp 910 valve springs, valve seals, 238-80% injectors, full RR, 38r turbo, napa air filter, Hydra with Gearhead tunes, 5"exhaust, 280k about 100k on rebuild. All mods done 40k ago. Now I have a horrible up pipe leak I assume is causing the low boost #'s I have to do another clutch so up pipes will be fixed when tranny is out this week. But I'm using 1-2 gallons of oil every 3k or so. I smell burning oil when I get out, mainly if I am getting on it then stop. I haven't pulled the fuel filter to see if its a injector o ring. (Tonight's project) but turbo sounds fine, I'm going check for shaft play tonight. What could be my loss of oil without it actually leaking on the ground?
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My gen3 has 200k miles and eats atleast 1 to 2 quarts every 2 to 3k miles what can I use...
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I have noticed my oil consumption has jumped to 1 1/2 quarts at 3000 miles..(it has been changed every 3 to 4000 miles) and is always very dark.. There's no leaks and the spark plugs were clean (just a little ash) when I changed them with the last oil change. No smoke from the tail pipe and the car still gets 45/48 mpg ..
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We bought a 2007 Outback in April of 2012 (~75,000 mi.). After a couple of oil changes I noticed that the oil consumption seemed high. The dealer looked for leaks and replaced the head gaskets under warranty. Oil consumption still seemed high. The dealer started monitoring the oil consumption checking it every 1000 miles for six months or so. Consumption was about 1 qt. for 1200 miles. Reluctantly they agreed to look at the rings (98,000 mi.). They found burnt oil rings and replaced them.
Oil consumption went down to 1 quart in 1800 miles (improvement of 600 miles). The engine was still under an extended warranty when this happened. I was claiming that the cylinder bores must have been out of spec to see such a small increase in oil consumption and that they should have given me a new short block or rebored the old one with new pistons to match. My question is, what kind of a result I should expect from a ring job? Am I correct in thinking that something else must be wrong with the engine if the oil consumption improved so little?
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I know I've complained about oil consumption before on my 12' 5.0 with 42 K. I've kinda come to terms with it and figure not much I can do ? Next oil change I want to try to improve it. Checked it the other day and has used approx 3/4 of quart in 2200 K. I've read other guys post talking about improving consumption by switching brands and trying different viscosity. I'm using the recommended Ford 5/20 synthetic now.
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I posted a few weeks ago about the 2009 Corolla XE that I purchased from a Toyota dealer with 95,500 miles. Within days a buying the car it began to make a brief loud rattle on cold starts. People on this forum directed me to the VVT and they were right on. The car came with a 60 day warranty so they replaced the timing gear at no cost to me problem solved.
Now several weeks later, last night when I got out of the car with the engine running I heard a pretty loud noise that sounded like one valve very out of adjustment. This morning when I started the car the noise was no longer there but when I checked the oil it was a quart low. I have put about 1800 miles on the car since I bought it and the oil was changed at the dealer right before I bought it. I thought it being low on oil might be causing the noise. I took the car to the dealer and explained everything, the put a quart of oil in it and said to bring it back in about 1000 miles to check it out.
When I got back home the noise was there again so I guess being low on oil wasn't the cause. In terms of oil consumption the service rep said Toyota considers up to 1.1 quarts per 1200 miles to be normal oil consumption. This sounds like a lot to me.
And in terms of the noise that sounds like a loose valve I'm beginning to think it had something to do with the work they did to replace the timing gear. What would make this noise come and go? Doesn't seem to be any relationship to operating temp or how long the engine has been running.
So I guess I have two problems, potentially an oil consumption problem and a intermittent loud noise that I don't like the sound of. My power train warranty expires Nov 19.
And do the valves on 2009 are adjustable, the service rep said they were auto adjust?
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07 camry 4cyl high oil consumption doing oil changes every 5k. Car has 61000 miles on it. I had to put 2 quarts of oil just before oil changes, oil level was still below low, so car burns 3 qrt of oil every 5k. What should i do?
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The oil consumption started around 90-100k miles. My wife mostly drives the car so I just check it and fill it without keeping track of mileage. Last week I had a lot of driving to do so I topped off the oil before starting my trip and put a 5 qt 5-20w bottle in the back. I've been through two liters in 2100 miles! Sheesh - I'm ticked off. I do my own oil changes at least every 10k miles, always use 0-20w or 5-20w full synthetic oil (usually Mobil 1). I replaced the spark plugs at 119k miles per maintenance schedule.
Besides the oil consumption, since 115k miles the engine can get into a mode where it misses a little bit at low power once it is completely warmed up. I have a good code reader and nothing ever shows up. I expected the new spark plugs would fix it, but they didn't change anything about how it runs. It is slowly getting worse. I'm going to wait until a code in the ECU is set before fixing it. It could be an ignition coil. I suspect it is an O2 sensor which causes the AFR to be too lean which makes the mix hard to ignite. Time will tell. It runs fine when cruising at highway speeds.
We bought this 2010 Prius III, not 3, new in October 2010. The only out-of-the-ordinary thing we do is live in northern Wyoming where it can be very cold for a long time. We drive 85 mph for long distances to go shopping and visit friends. The gas mileage is the same as it has always been. It varies between 42 and 50 mpg in the summer and 35 and 45 in the winter.
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My stepmother has a 2006 Ford Freestyle AWD with a 3.0L Volvo engine. It seems to be consuming a great deal of oil. (Definitely not leaking it.) But not on a regular basis.... Within a couple weeks of changing the oil this time, it has consumed nearly 2 quarts! Other times it hardly uses any. This has been going on for a couple years now. She has taken it to the dealership numerous times and they cannot seem to find the issue. It doesn't have a "burnt" smell when I pull the dipstick either. The mileage is low as she hardly drives the car. (Under 80,000 miles) I've looked online and can't seem to find this problem elsewhere.
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It's great on gas below 2200 rpm. Averaging 34 combined. However whenever I'm in a situation where I need to accelerate, such as beat the yellow light, up a hill, or pass someone and I shift to a lower gear I lose 1-2 MPG at the drop of a dime. And then it takes forever to recover. What is going on here? Is the engine being flooded with fuel?
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I replace all my spark plugs but my car still has no power and its eating gas like crazy.
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My hyundai accent 2004 consumes fuel but does not bring out black smoke, what can i do?
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A question during the show this week (1/22/2011) was whether it used more gasoline to idle in gear or in neutral with an automatic transmission. The answer was it makes little difference. I contend the engine uses more fuel idling in neutral. The reason is the increased level of partial vacuum within the intake manifold means more air and fuel will be drawn into the engine. When the vehicle is in gear, the engine idles slower, less vacuum, less fuel used.
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I have serious drain now on the left side of the vehicle, and it appears to come from the radiator itself. Coolant consumption is approaching fuel consumption. Replace the radiator in a 2006- W12? Looking for some info on similar leaks and found them not originating from the radiator?
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Just bought a 2012 Prius Three last Friday. The MFD (upper display) shows an average of about 53 mpg so far, and the corresponding 1 & 5 min bars seem to make sense (we have an 07 TCH so we're reasonably familiar).
But the Display Audio unit (6.1 inch) Car>Consumption graph seems to show 100mpg most of the time/most bars. That can't be right and it looks nothing like the MFD display. What am I missing?
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I have a 2002 Elantra GT, is consuming 22 miles per gallon, one of these days the car was alarmed with a check engine, the mechanic checks to see if he had a loose wire, then removed the battery, put it on again and check engine disappeared. Following this, the car is doing 30 miles per gallon. After 5 hours the alarm appeared again, we scan the car and gave the code P0420. These days the car has been decreasing again the miles per gallon.
I bought the car with 186.000 miles but the person who sold me the car said he had 68.000 miles, the board was stolen and damaged something, then had to buy a Yonker the board and that board came with the mileage, is this possible?
What is suggested to improve the fuel consumption?
It is possible to know how much mileage the car has traveled in reality?
With so many miles traveled, which recommended preventive maintenance?
This error code says that the catalyst has to be replaced but can also be a leak or may be some of the oxygen sensors.
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I'm experiencing some TPS failure symptoms and high fuel consumption.... I've unplugged the ecu harness to measure the voltages, measured a constant 6v on the return signal wire while it should be about 0v. While the input voltage is normal 5v. A strange reading as well is that signal reading with both battery terminals is 6v!!
Would this be a short on the ecu cable or is it a corrupted ECU? Also today I had tough hesitation in the morning while the engine was cold, after warm up it was normal! Is this related or its idle sensor?! ( Plugs and their cables are new)...
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If I plug in my IPhone 4 using the USB cord plugged into the receptacle under the armrest (how you plug in to run the wonderful entune ) the pictured notification intermittently and quite often pops up. This stops my phone from charging and is annoying as it makes the dinging sound every time and I have to unplug / re plug it in and hope that it starts back up charging. Does the little lightning bolt that signifies that the phone is charging must be on for entune to work, or does it only have to be plugged in??
Now I do recall somewhere hearing that the USB is not the optimal way to charge a phone, and I'll admit when it does work it charges real slow. Thing is that's the only way to run Entune and there is only one plug on the cell phone? I could charge the phone via a cigarette lighter charger but then I can't use entune!
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