Corolla :: 1998 Connected Pocket Scanner - No Codes / Car Won't Start
Dec 24, 2011
My 98 Corolla won't start, but I have checked battery, fuel pressure, spark, efi relay, and fuses, which are all good. Can't figure what to fix?
Have connected a pocket scanner but I get no codes.
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I have a 2001 cavalier with the service light on. i hooked up my scanner but there are no codes. My daughter recently wrecked it and knocked out the passenger side headlight and turn signal. Will the service light come on if a bulb is out?
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The past week, the CEL of my Jetta 2000 was on, and a couple of days after, was off. But yesterday was relit. I take my car to Auto Zone to check codes with scanner, but was impossible read any code, the lector can't connect with computer. I thought in fuses, but the fuses are fine.
Searching on google, i found that the reason could be the aftermarket radio, but I am not sure about that, the connections are seen aparently fine. I Read in one thread that disconnecting the aftermarket radio harness is enough to can read codes from computer.
I read also that the scanner could be incompatible with VW cars, but I don't think that, because AutoZone should have a scanner compatible with most of the common cars models.
The fact is that I don't want to get in troubles with the harness of radio, I don't have tools like multimeter neither knowledge about electrical systems, i just want to know if disconnecting the radio harness is enough in order to read codes. (in case of the problem be on the K-line wire).
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The Prius has 115ooo miles. It is a 2005. Just recently it started showing the red triangle of death, check engine light, and the brake light. When I check for codes using a scanner it comes with the following:
P0A80
C1310
C1259
P3015
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I recently got my corolla (2009) repaired and the technician said that the radio was not connected to the battery for about two weeks. Now the radio (even the backlight) won't turn on regardless of any buttons I press. All the fuses have been checked and are fine. Could this be some anti-theft mode in which something must be done to turn it back on.
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My 98 corolla has set for a year plus and the serpentine belt is stuck and will not let the motor turn over fast enough to start. The battery is fully charged, the gas tank is full, the belt is in good shape. The car ran just fine the one year I owned it before sitting so long. I sprayed the belt with belt dressing. Could the alternator or something else be stuck? Should I remove the belt and then reinstall it?
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I have been having odd problems with my truck for several weeks now and what the problem may be. Occasionally the truck will not start. This happens after it has been run for an errand or to church. The truck turns over but no ignition. Sometimes if I pump the gas pedal very quickly I can get it to start. Other times I have to sit and wait about 5 minutes. I have gotten the following two error codes - P1506=Cylinder Head Temp Sensor and P1299=Idle Air Control Overspeed Error. For two days the "check engine" light was on, but now it has gone out. I have searched for an answer to this problem on these boards and one possibility may be a vacuum leak. Is this the most likely? 1998 Triton 4.6 ....
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I have an 04 Silverado Z71. I am getting error code U1000 on my Scanner. As well as a torque converter code and a front axel code. I can not start the truck. Its as if its in a safety lock out or something.
I talked to a service tech at the lock gmc dealer and he said the U1000 code was definitely the reason it wont start. Possible bad ECM somewhere in the system.
Where can i find a full wiring schematic for my truck ?
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I got a 2008 accent hatch basic model. Its got the 1.6 motor with 23k miles. It will not start at the moment. Battery is good, I am getting fuel. It is not getting spark, and my scanner wont link up to it. I don't know what else to trouble shoot. I am out of warranty car is a salvage title,car ran fine until today. I am thinking the ecu fried but I don't know? All fuses good. What can i check or how do I troubleshoot?
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This has to do with a rattle on cold startup from a gear connected with the VVT system. I have a 2010 camry that may be affected by this. It just past 60K miles so they probably will not cover it under warranty. Does the rattle get worse over time, or will it have an engine failure if it does not get fixed?
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Car was overheating for a long time. Went to start it and wouldn't start. Its been sitting for a while so I replaced the battery and now when the battery is connected its making a loud humming noise. And still no start. It turns over and sounds like its trying to start just won't start.
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The engine cranks and tries to start when the battery is connected. It does this automatically, you don't even need the key or ignition to be turned on. The remote selonoid has been replaced so has the starter. The car does start and run when you let it but the starter remains engaged so its LOUD. I have bypassed the ignition switch by disconnecting it entirely, however the car still cranks and wants to turn on when the battery is connected.
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If I have my key fob and cellphone in the same pocket I can open up the car with no issue by walking up to the vehicle, but when I try to start the vehicle the digital dash says " No Key Detected ". When I separate the key fob from the cell phone then the car can detect the key fob. (if I remove the fob out of my pocket and leave the phone or if I remove the phone and leave the fob it will detect the key and I'm able to start the vehicle).
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98 passat 1.8t has the abs light on and the exclamation point. Scanned it using vad. Nothing showed up in the scan. Also turbo whistles under load. And trans slips. Nothing showing up on vad.
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so recently I purchased a 98 Chevy s10 with the check engine light on. Seemed like a good deal. Has a battery warning light constantly on and I have to turn and reset the ignition a few times each morning to get the engine to start but it ran relatively smoothly. I waited a day, then tried to reset the light by disconnecting the battery and cycling it. The light never cleared. Once my scanner came in the mail I ran it and came back with a PO453 (High pressure in EVAP) code.Looked it up, could be a variety of causes, and as I don't really have a place to tinker with it too much I started with the easy stuff. Checked gas cap, seems a bit weartherized and probably needs to be replaced. Got under the vehicle and had barely enough clearance to disconnect what I believe to be the FTP sensor .
Started the vehicle, stopped, then ran the code again, only this time it came up as a PO452 (EVAP pressure low). Reconnected the sensor, erased the codes and again the check engine light stayed on. Went to work today, code on. Got off and the check engine light was gone! Excitedly I ran the codes again when I parked at home and it still came up with PO452, but the Check Engine light is still off.
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I just bought a 2006 Prius with one FOB. How do I know if my 2006 Prius is SKS?The fob unlocks the doors by pushing the button. There is no reaction to the FOB being in my pocket in trying to start the car. Is my FOB non-SKS but my Prius is?
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I have a new to me 2010 Prius. What I'm trying to do (I did it with my 2008 Prius) is to be able to unlock any door from the outside as long as I have my fob in my pocket. I've tried following the directions in the manual but to no avail. I've tried holding lock and unlock on the fob simultaneously for 5 seconds, all doors open shows up on the control panel, but when I approach any door except the drivers door, nothing happens.
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BMW's have a special way to bleed the system, does the VW passat have on too? Seems like I can't get the air pocket out and heat is barely coming in. I just put a radiator in and all the coolant obviously is gone, so I put new coolant in and the cars been idling for about 30 with the cap off letting air out and heat is barely coming in, am i missing something? Engine temp is NORMAL, in the middle, so NO overheating issues.
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I've got a 2004 Prius and I recently had some body repair done which included having the cloth interior upgraded to leather.
When I picked up my Prius from the shop, the key fob wouldn't work when it was in my pocket. I had to push the unlock key to open the door. Then when I tried to start the car w/ the key in my pocket, it wouldn't start so I had to put the key into the dash to get the car started.
Once I got home, I figured the battery was dead so I replaced it and tried again and got the same results. Then I went around the car testing the passenger door and truck and it's the same thing, it won't unlock w/out pushing the button on the key fob.
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Do all sc have the coin pocket that opens up.I tried sliding mine back but it doesn't open.Is there a trick to opening these up or are some not made to open. what am I doing wrong?
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My wife's(who is in school out of state) 1998 Civic EX 2 door coupe with 127.7k miles has been showing the Check Engine light for a week now - had her get it checked at a local Meineke and the codes are P0700 and P0715 - also the D4 light is constantly flashing while she drives. There is no discernible issues/change in the driving experience except she says the engine sounds louder and sometimes it accelerates slowly. I believe Honda has a TSB on this (01-012). I saw a member on a honda civic forum was able to get this resolved under an extended emission warranty [URL]..... - so I called Honda customer care but they said the TSB does not apply to my 1998 Civic.
Is there something I am missing in reference to coverage from Honda for this problem - I see that the gentleman who was successful in getting this done from the dealer under an extended emissions warranty had a 96 Civic and someone mentioned 96-98 model years in the discussion on this issue. We have a baby on the way so will be buying a bigger car before the end of March - intend to keep this car as a secondary for occasional use (if the cost to fix this issue is not in the thousands) - so I am trying to figure out what makes the most sense :
1. Should we bring the car to a local dealer ? this one dealer said they will charge to diagnose and if I get the work done there - the testing cost will go towards repairs.
2. Drive the car as is - and try to find a local mechanic when I'm there next month.
3. Get a transmission drain and fill - believe a trans flush is not usually.
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