Chysler - Sebring :: 2007 - Knocking With A Whirling Sounds
Jun 24, 2011
I have 2007 2.4 Chysler Sebring. The thing is sounding like a truck right now. My brother looked at it, says it sounds like something is wrong with the pulley system where the belts are. The sound is not coming from the engine. There are no lights coming on. It not the exhaust system. The sound is like a knocking with a whirling sounds. Its very annoying and embarrassing. I am finding that this car is plagued with noise issues....
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My car recently started making strange noises sometimes. Sometimes I hear a whirling sounds coming from the bottom half of the block which I'd hope it isn't the water pump. Also when i start my car and it cranks over, I hear what sounds like a blow off sounds but its not from my diverter valve.
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My 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe Driver side B-Pillar has a knocking sound now and then, is it just a loose connection or is it common in these models as it is winter.
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I have a 2007 Camry with 90k miles. All of a sudden today when I turned my car on I noticed a high pitched whirling noise, similar to a tornado siren that gets louder as I accelerated in my parking garage. Even when I turned the car off and on and it sat in park I still noticed it and it got louder as I press on the accelerator. I haven't driven over 20 mph since I noticed this so I'm not sure if it still does it at fast speeds.
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I am slowly coming up on my 3 year anniversary with my Santa Fe 2007 3.3 AWD transmission , and after 50,000 trouble free miles I've encountered a problem.
It started this summer when I was towing my trailer on about a 300 mile journey. It sounded like a high pitched humming or whirling from the dashboard, while decelerating. It would stop at around 15 MPH. You cannot hear it while cruising. After days of head scratching I determined that the noise is coming from the transmission. It comes from the output side, as it shifts through all the gears smoothly, however it makes the sound with the engine off while coasting with the transmission in neutral too.
I noticed the transmission fluid was slightly burnt. As I am student, the problem was solved by turning up the radio, and as the car shifts great no thought was given.
During Christmas break I drove the car out to the west coast and about 400 miles into the journey the whining really got loud and frankly freaked me out. The car now sounds like little aircraft jet engines whinding down when you decelerate. OK its not as loud but when you're 400 miles into a 1600 mile trip you tend to get panicky about such things.
The car made it back fine. It still shifts great except for the whiney turbine noises that disappear below 15mph. I've got transmission fluid so I will start today by doing a couple drain and fills, but I suspect that since I've been a bit too lackadaisical about the problem that will not be sufficient.
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I would describe the noise as a whirling/vibration sound that can be heard as soon as the gas engine portion of the car kicks in (even in park) but gets louder and more noticeable as the car is in motion, especially at highway speeds (55 - 65mph). Opening the hood and listening to the engine block, the noise is definitely coming from around the area of the silver-covered portion by the driver's-side, which I believe is the hybrid synergy engine. The noise has gotten to the point where I really get bothered by it driving anywhere, and I have to turn up the radio to try to drown out the noise.
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Prius has taken on a new habit. When making turns at any respectable speed, there's a very noticeable knocking sound. I've had the windows rolled down and can't tell whether it's coming from the right side or the left. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the front.
I just put him up on blocks and rolled under to check out the front suspension, turning mechanism and anything else I can see. It wasn't long before I realized what I'm looking at nor am I likely to recognize any problems if I saw it. Having said that, nothing looked broken or dangling.
He's due for a 100,000 mile check-up. Since I'm heading to the dealership, it would be easy for me to have them look at it.
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I have a 1998 E39 535i that has a knocking sound coming from the front right wheel area. The noise can be heard mainly at low speeds and when touching the brake (not only when touching the brake though). It sounds like a load of golf balls rattling around in the bottom of a golf bag.
The car has been to BMW who changed discs and pads to no effect and in the last week I have taken it to an independent mechanic who cannot find anything wrong with the brakes or wheel bearings.
I have been assured that the sound is not dangerous but it is driving me up the wall! I should also mention that it only seems to occur when the vehicle is warm.
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My car is accent 1.4 A/T 2012, and lately I've been hearing this metallic knocking sounds underneath my car. it happens every time after i drove my car for a longer distance and even on a shorter distance with no minimum running speed, you can hear the metallic knocking sounds whether the engine is on or off. Sometimes it is too loud you don't have to go out from the car you just have to roll the window down to hear it.
I've brought this already to my dealer and told me it was normal but I don't want to accept their answer so i refer it to another hyundai dealer. the second dealer made an adjustments on the muffler and catalytic something and even upgraded the CEU but to no avail and even adjusted my steering preload. BUT I'm still hearing it!! What to do.
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Ok, down to business. I have a 1981 Ford F-100 with a 351w, offenhauser racing intake, 4bbl holley, c6 stall converter, 540 lunati lift cam and a nice MSD ignition. Last night I was starting my truck to run to the gas station and started to hear a "knocking/clicking" sounds. Immediately shut the truck down. Upon investigating the noise I pulled out my dipstick and noticed that it was tough to pull out as if it was caught up on something and also that there was no oil except for a little trail of it up one side of dipstick.
At this point I assumed that I had blown a head gasket and looked in my radiator. Nice and green with no trace of oil. Looking closer at the engine this afternoon, I notice a pretty decent amount of oil had stained the valve cover on the side with the valve cover breather. Also noticed some junk inside the breather that was a whitish/brownish color with the consistency of yogurt inside. My question is, in that I'm not overly advanced with this sorta thing, what is the general opinion of the problem and what should be done to rectify it?
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My Corolla recently started making a sporadic knocking sound when braking. It only seems to happen infrequently, but a couple of times I have noticed it happening when I go over a bump or crack in the road. Any clues as to what the issue might be?
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I currently own a 2006 prius which has done about 100k km. I've been hearing knocking and rattling sounds coming from the left tire whenever I go over a rough patch of road or even a speed bump, between slow to moderate speeds. It's currently bearable, but it gets irritating at times and it seems to be getting louder. What is the cause of these noise and how I can rectify it? I wish to get rid of it.
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I started my car this morning and drove to work. It's not that cold. I heard knocking sounds coming from the engine at a stop light. I lightly tapped on the accelerator to hear it better. My commute is short (3 miles), so I gingerly cruised there. I didn't try to accelerate and it didn't seem like I was suffering from loss of power either. I opened the hood and let it idol at work and couldn't really hear the knocking sound.
I downloaded the code when I got to work. After that I started the engine again and it sounded pretty normal. I'm due for my oil/filter change (~5500 miles).
Here are the codes. Any reasons to worry, or is this an one-time thing?
2 Faults Found:
001322 - Camshaft Adj. Bank 1 Intake
P052A - 001 - Cold-Start Timing not Reached
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
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05 F-350 6L .. Automatic Transmission
When I got the truck I noticed it would slam hard into reverse. Ever since it is taking longer to engage reverse gear and now I have to rev it to 1000 rpms for it to engage with a hard SLAM.
I also noticed that if I do a fast take off, there is a knocking sound coming from drive shaft/differential area (like knock knock knock knock knock then goes away). Then a slight vibration ending at around 30 kph (~20 MPH). There is also some oil leaking from the transmission. I added some mercon sp yesterday - it was a bit low.
My guess for the knocking and vibration is the center support bearings and U-joints. Transmission??? One thing I know I am going to be banging away at that shaft but the transmission problem really scares me.
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My 2010 LS 460 had the Control Arms replaced at 45,196 miles. Now, I am hearing a clicking sound at low speeds when I am turning in either direction. I can hear it with the windows rolled up and the radio on, it is fairly pronounced. The vehicle now has 51,350 miles on it. What this could be?
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So my lovely wife tells me that something sounds sounds like it is rubbing from underneath the hood of my Lexus. So I take it to the dealership and they tell me it's the the the tensioner for the timing belt needs to be replaced. So I have them replace it and In the process they tell me that it sounds like there is something wrong with the fuel pump but they were able to quiet down though I don't understand how. Anyway after I pick the car up it sounds exactly the same as it did when I left it, personally I don't feel like I should pay for labor on this repair but besides that I don't understand what this issue could be. It sounds like something is rubbing while the car is running.. Lexus 2002 ES300 ..
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I had the oil changed on my 2007 Honda Fit last weekend. Since that time, the engine sounds like it's in overdrive or high gear all the time. Even when stopped at a stop light, my car sounds like it's racing. Should I be worried? I checked and there is transmission fluid and oil in the car. I should add, this is the first time I've had the oil changed, I just bought this car (used) about 2 months ago, from a certified Honda dealer.
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My 2009 LS 600h:
I park the car, i turn it off, the steering wheel goes to park position. Then, when i open the door i hear a sound like a electric motor.
My GS 450h did exactly the same. Auto handbrake on or off makes no difference.
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I replaced rear pads with akebomo and installed centric premium rotors but in the morning I hear a very loud noise (as loud as as a steam locomotive :-) for the first few times I press on the brake, then the sound goes away. After that, no hissing sound all day until next morning.
I used a brake silencer spray on the back of the pads but to no avail. I had the mechanic lube the pins twice but in vain. Noise went away for 3 days and came back.
I was told to go with OEM pads with shim. I was wondering if this the correct solution and where is the best place to get those OEM pads?
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My husband and I noticed that my Hyundai Elantra (2007) sounded rough when running over 60mph. The car has 61,000 miles on it and is due for an oil change, a radiator flush, and a fuel filter replacement. My manual says that the platinum coated (versus iridium coated) spark plugs would need to be replaced at 60K miles. I was told that the car would run rough at lower speeds if it was the spark plugs.
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I bought a 2007 Prius this week and I am having trouble with the door lock/unlock procedure. I have read and re-read the manual and feel I am doing everything correctly. What is happening is I can lock the car, either with the push button on the handle or with the key fob. When I return to unlock the car 2 things may happen. Either I get within 2 feet of the car and the alarm goes off or I can get close enough to touch the door handle and then the alarm goes off. Either way, I then have to use the fob to turn off the alarm noise and then I can unlock the car. All rather embarrassing and I'm getting tired of looking like an idiot! The worst part is when I was back at the used car dealer briefly yesterday and went to show him the problem, it behaved perfectly which was the only time it worked ever for me. I have tried both of my key fobs and the same thing happens with both of them.
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