Chrysler - Towncountry :: 1999 - Van Seems To Move Forward With Brakes Applied At Red Light
May 14, 2012
While driving idle seemed to increase. Noticed at red lite where van seemed to want to move forward with brakes applied. Went to parking lot put van in park engine RPM rose to around 2500 RPM on it's own. Opened hood and fiddled around with a wire???/hose thing near the throttle control line (wire that connects foot piece to engine). A bunch of black powder (carbon?) fell out. Turned the van off then back on a couple of times. On the third time idle returned to normal and has operated normal since. What caused this? What do I tell my mechanic? What was the wire/tube thing (it entered what I assume is the air intake at a right angle) right in front of where the wire from the foot control hooks up.
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I drive a 2005 Chrysler Town and Country with just over 47,000 miles. I noticed that during the last few days, when I start the car, the needles on the fuel, speedometer and temperature gauges go all the way up and then back down. After they finish moving, I then see the engine lights go on and off. Normally, when I start the car, just the engine lights go on and off. The movement of the needles on the gauges is new. This is now happening about every other time I start the car.
The car itself seems to be starting and running just fine. I haven’t noticed any drop off or change in performance. What could be causing this oddity? Is this a warning that something worse is about to happen?
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On left turns, even just slight left turn, but mostly when weather is humid, I get a loud squeal that sounds exactly like squealing brakes, except I am not applying brakes. May not be relevant, but this is a minivan modified for wheelchair access via a ramp that comes out on the passenger side.
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I've had my 2011 Prius II for two months, and I love it. One little thing bugs me, however. I have noticed that sometimes when I apply the brakes, the car lurches forward a little bit. But I keep the brake pedal on, and the car does stop. Is there something wrong with my brakes, or is this something that has to do with the regenerative braking?
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I have a 2012 Prius with 15000 miles on it. In the year I have had it, I have had this problem a few times. On rare occasions while I am braking the car seems to lurch forward. In particular I have noticed it while braking and hitting a bump. The problem is that when this happens the car seems to jump forward while the brakes are being applied. My foot is on the brake when it happens, but I am not braking suddenly. That rules out any anti-lock braking. I have had the dealer look at it but since it didn't happen on their test drive they couldn't figure anything out. They did open a case on it in case anything comes up.
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I have a 2008 Prius basic model bought second hand. There are two issues since I have bought the car; first it will roll back or forward when the brake applied, this happens on any uphill or downhill. I brought the car to Toyota service centre, they did a brake test, the test passed. but this doesn't resolve this issue. It just very weird. during driving, all brake works ok, but parking the car, if not in even service, it starts to roll.
Second, recently I hear there's a crack sound when apply the brake during low speed, especially during the stop/start traffic, and I notice mostly happens when the electrical motor in running. So when brake, the crack, like the spark comes from somewhere like battery. While brake to slow down from high speed, seems no sound. So I suspect it was from the battery or electric motor.
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After washing my 08 GX and putting in the garage to wax dry I have found that the next time I get in it to drive-often a day or so later,the car will not move in reverse ( or forward) without me revving it up quite high to overcome the locked up pads on the rotors. Sometimes its even screeches the tires to get in unlocked. I just washed it and letting it sit outside for a bit to see if the sun will dry out the rotors/pads and that would work.
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The oil light on my 2005 Chrysler Town & Country comes on when started when it is cold outside. It stays on until I turn the key off and restart, then it goes out and does not come back on. My mechanic cannot find anything wrong. This only happens in cold weather, not in the summer.
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We have had an engine light that comes on when it is wet out. (Usually from rain) Until recently, the codes were not stored in memory. The last time we tried this, there was a 420 code set. Our mechanic said it was the catalytic converter. This vehicle is a 2006 and only has a 100,000 miles on it. Neither of the oxygen sensors have been replaced. The car doesn't seem to run any differently when the engine light comes on.
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The oil light on my 2005 Chryler Town & Country comes on when started when it is cold outside. It stays on until I turn the key off and restart, then it goes out and does not come back on. My mechanic cannot find anything wrong. This only happens in cold weather, not in the summer.
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have a 1999 town and country that wont start from time to time. some times it starts right up and starts right up for months.some times starts and then go to start it again it just won't start . dosent even make a sound. all the lights and radio etc. working, and its been to numerous times to the repair shop. each time at the repair shop it starts right up and when they put it on the diagnostic computer , the diagnostics says nothing is wrong.
it's a brand new battery, and when we took the battery to the auto parts store they checked it and said the battery is charging and then discharging in a cycle.just got back from the chrysler dealer repair and they put the diagnostic computure on it and it says nothing is wrong.
i live in tucson, az and when the temp is 105F outside and i buy ice and frozen things is when the town and country decides it dosent wanta start
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I have a 1999 Town and Country van, 3.8L engine. It has 220K miles on it. Lately, when I am accelerating, it seems to do fine until I get to 40-55 mph. In that range, it stutters a bit. After that it runs fine, even at higher speeds. I usually don't get this stuttering at the lower speeds as I am, for example, accelerating to get on a highway. A mechanic friend of mine says that it may be a vac leak. Does this sound right, or are there other possibilities.
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I recently picked up a 2003 chrysler town and country from a local GM dealer in central MN. After filling out the paperwork etc I was on my way home and the transmission made a loud CLUNK. I thought I must be imagining things. At the next intersection as I accelerated from the light "CLUNK". I called the dealer right away and they stood behind the van. The dealer had me bring it to the transmission shop covering all expenses. They fixed it, or so they said. We had it for a few days and had similar problems. Back to the transmission shop. They then completely went through the transmission. We got it back and again had issues... this time it was a slight shudder in the transmission as you slowly accelerated. I brought it back again. They replaced the torque convertor. I've only had it back for a few days and it still has an occasional slight shudder under slow acceleration... it usually happens around 30mph.
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I am about an hour and a half from home at my cousins when my oil light came on. It only comes on when I have come to a complete stop. Once I accelerate it goes away. I checked the dipstick and it is full. Here is my question: what do you think this could be and would it be safe to drive home to my trusted mechanic. The car has 160,000 miles on it.
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I have a 99 Town & Country that occasionally has a starting problem that has stumped my otherwise excellent mechanic. Every once in awhile when I start my van it kills right away. Even if I rev the engine with the gas pedal it kills immediately. It will do that 3-5 times, then when I turn the key nothing will happen, no click no dash lights, nothing. Often if I let it sit at that point for a few hours it will start and run fine.
The alternator was changed two years ago in an attempt to fix this problem and the starter was just replaced a few months ago.
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I am having problems with the acceleration. when I let off the accelerator it hovers around 2000 rpm and then it takes awhile to come down. I checked the throttle cable and it seems free and the springs are on the throttle body.
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2007 Chrysler Town and Country, 123k.
It's had an intermittent airbag light for a few weeks now. When it does come on, it stays on until the car is shut off. When I turn it back on, sometimes it comes on and sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it comes on at startup and sometimes it comes on in the middle of driving. I took it into the shop when the light was off and the shop said whatever's wrong with it, it wasn't storing the code and to run it back in when the light is on.
Since yesterday, the fuel has been overflowing at fill up. I get maybe a half gallon in and then it overflows. I can hear it glug-glugging in when I pull out the gas hose. The flap at the neck of the tank seems to have gone missing too.
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I have a 2003 Chrysler Town & Country and the check engine light is on. I brought the van to my mechanic and he told me there was a code that told him there was a misfire on cylinder #1. He started out with replacing the wire to cylinder #1, no change. He replaced the spark plug, no change. He installed a new fuel injector, no change. The van runs a little ruff at idle and when at a stop light.
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2007 Chrysler Town & Country with 74K. The check engine light comes on and the parts store diagnostic says P0404, a clogged EGR valve. On my model, replacing the EGR valve involves taking out the alternator, which involves removing the passenger wheel. That's beyond my skill set.
So, can I just replace the EGR tube and pour some Sea Foam motor treatment directly into the EGR? Would that hurt anything?
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Yesterday afternoon the "Service Engine Soon" light turned on in our '97 Town & Country (3.8L engine). A few minutes later (while I headed to Autozone to get the code read) the light went out. They were still able to retrieve 2 codes: P0700 and P1775. Internet searches suggest a possible bad solenoid pack for the transmission.
More background: The van has 161,000 miles, and the original owners got the transmission replaced at 40,000 miles under warranty (4 speed automatic). The transmission fluid was replaced (pan drop method) at about 153,000 miles and at 112,000 miles, etc., with Chrysler ATF +4 fluid. The van got new plugs and wires about 15,000 miles ago. (It also got a new radiator and hoses yesterday morning which I think is unrelated.) Another possible clue: On long trips sometimes the 2nd transmission shift will become slightly rough but it still shifts and after it has rested everything returns to normal. This occasional shifting issue has been going on for over 5 years and again when it manifests itself it is very slight.
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My Chysler Town and Country started fine on a morning when it was 9 degrees. (no garage, so it was out in the weather.) I let it run for a couple of minutes so things would begin to thaw and then I drove to work. It ran really rough. I figured that once it warmed up, it would smooth out, but it did not. Even after the weather warmed up into the 50's 5 days later, it still runs rough. Now, I am also getting a check engine light. What could be wrong?
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