My friend's 04 Sebring (6cyl) is overheating. After start up, almost immediately the water bubbles in the radiator and heat builds. He has replaced the radiator, thermostat, water pump, and even rebuilt the heads - still the overheating issue. What may be the problem and how to correct?
View 2 RepliesA couple of months ago my daughter's Sebring engine began shutting off immediately after starting. We brought the car to my usually reliable mechanic. They couldn't find anything wrong. The problem became more frequent (every 2 to 3 starts) and we brought it back to my mechanic who determined it was the car's computer system. $1700 later the car is ready to be picked up, my daughter gets it after the shop is closed, and it wouldn't start! She left it there, got a ride, and, one week later the Sebring is still at the mechanic's. They told us it starts every time for them and they don't see any problem. After researching on the Internet I thought it might have something to do with the immobilizer but they told me that tested fine. I'm at a loss over what to do.
View 2 RepliesHave lost all fan speed control in both hot/A/C settings. Resistor pack checks out okay. Fan runs when voltage applied direct to it. Have +12v into r-pack. Fuse (inside) okay. The fan speed is controlled by adding resistance between Fan & ground. Thermal cutout part on R-pack okay. How do I test out the relay (in engine compartment), and could that even be the prob? Will look at dash switch next. Any schematic for this?
View 2 RepliesMy friend's '04 Sebring is still overheating even after these steps have been taken: heads were warped -- had a professional shave them down and rebuild engine; new radiator; new thermostat; then removed thermostat to try this way, and bled the system for air bubbles (more than once).
The car can run about five miles - then bubbling/boiling in the water recovery tank. The mechanic said there is a small crack on the water reservoir (a small plastic box) near where the bolt connects to the engine. Could this crack affect the pressure of the system and cause this overheating?
I have a 2008 Sebring convertible that has starting issues. Sometimes when I turn the key to start, it does nothing (no noises, maybe a small click very rarely). If I take the key out and put it back in, it may start. Usually, I have to turn the power on, move the gears, and try again. Sometimes, it will start immediately, or I may have to do this procedure several times. It has been taken into the Chrysler dealer twice. They said it was not the switch or alternator and replaced the battery that wouldn't keep a charge. It was a 5-yr battery with 3 years of use. I was told to drive more! I shouldn't have to charge the battery every day. Several diagnostic tests were performed with no results. It still did this twice after the battery was replaced. Could it be cables?
View 3 RepliesMy Town & County started running hot.. sometimes... I first replace the thermostat, but still ran hot. But I never saw any indication in the engine compartment of overheating or bubbly fluid or such, so I took it to the dealer, where at first it ran fine. Then started running hot, they were confused because the lower hose was a lower Temp then the upper hose so they wanted to take the water pump off and look at it. I asked if they verified that the engine was actually running hot, I also questioned them about the lower hose temp, because I think if its working right it should be a lower temp. They said would check both items.
Then they called back and said they thought I had a blocked radiator (no mention of the water pump) and wanted $900 to put a new one in. Got van back, drove it home and check the radiator and there were some cold spots and hot spots in the radiator. Called local radiator place and they suggested I flush it. I did, it ran perfect for 1.5 days and now overheats again. Now most of the Radiator is cold to the touch just around the edges is hot. the upper hose is hotter than the lower hose and is hot all the way to the radiator (maybe not as hot at the radiator as by the thermostat.Question: Bad Radiator or Bad Water Pump?
2008 Chrysler Sebring V6 hardtop convertible ... Intermittent no crank / no start condition – when turning key to start position, either you get nothing as if there is no battery connected and or a slight click as if the solenoid was trying to engage. The pattern can be nothing, nothing, nothing, click, click, nothing, startup or any combination of clicks or nothing, always resulting with a startup. Sometimes it will only be 3-4 attempts, other times 15-20. This occurs anywhere from every 15-20 starts to driving 2,000 miles from NH to FL without one failure.Completely random occurrence – no pattern can be seen – has been ongoing since September 2015 to now March 2016.
I have tried moving the shift lever and the steering wheel while it occurs, no change.Facts – battery was replaced 2-3 years agoAfter the first occurrence I yanked the battery, cleaned the terminals as well as the terminals under the hood. Over the next couple of months brought it to the dealer who could find no codes and of course it did not fail while they had it so they did nothing. In December I appealed to the service manager to replace the starter as I thought is sounded like a bad spot on the armature. He did so and also had the WIN module replaced. No issues until I was in FL weeks later. Here the dealer has replaced the PTC and TIPM modules and installed a redundant ground wire. The problem is still occurring. I’m down to under 400 miles on my 100k bumper to bumper warranty?
My frend has a 89 Sebring that won't start all the dash light come on but turn the key and it doesn't do a thing....
View 8 RepliesI recently bought an 02 Chrysler sebring (4 cyl) When cold, it takes about 5-10 secs of cranking for engine to start. Is that normal?
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 Town & Country that occasionally has a starting problem that has stumped my otherwise excellent mechanic. Every once in awhile when I start my van it kills right away. Even if I rev the engine with the gas pedal it kills immediately. It will do that 3-5 times, then when I turn the key nothing will happen, no click no dash lights, nothing. Often if I let it sit at that point for a few hours it will start and run fine.
The alternator was changed two years ago in an attempt to fix this problem and the starter was just replaced a few months ago.
My 2002 Sebring won't start. Here's what happens:
Turn the key in the ignition. Engine makes no noise at all. It's sorta like when the battery died 2 months ago, except this time the power windows and doors work, the headlights and interior lights work, though oddly, the radio doesn't. The radio, FYI, is not the one that came with the car. I bought it back in 2010 after the cassette deck on the original broke and I needed something with an Auxilary connector to connect my Ipod to. I had it professionally installed.
So the car doesn't start. The engine doesn't make any noise. The headlights do come on. The dashboard lights that normally come on when you try to start it up (the check engine light, the airbag light etc., also do not come on at any point. I don't recall any particular clicking sounds when I turn the ignition. I do remember hearing these clicking noises (sort of a quick one time click for each key turn) when the car wouldn't start due to battery/alternator issues two months ago.
So I did a bit of research, and I think it's either the starter solenoid or the ignition switch. Am I far off base?
I have a 2007 Prius, my coolant is always overflowing to my reservoir. It doesn't have any overheating problem, if I will fill up the radiator I could see bubbles coming out, How can I resolve this problem?
View 8 RepliesReplaced pass side cyl head 7 years ago and now I've a misfire on cyl 1. Did wires and plugs as a matter of routine. Giveaway was rust deposit on rad cap. I always keep a strong coolant mixture and the rad is fairly new. Did a cyl pressure differential test and had bubbles coming out of rad. Funny thing is that had a rough few seconds on start, then smooth from then on. Getting my self fired up to tackle it. Have full gasket set and head bolts. Got a new head today. Am at 470k miles now.
View 6 RepliesHave an 02 Camry 4 cylinder. The car retains pressure overnight in the radiator - the morning after driving the release of the radiator cap produces air bubbles in the over flow tank and a noticeable hiss of air from the filler neck. Car is not running hot and no CELs. Fluid is not being pulled into the radiator from reservoir after driving due to high pressure.
Here's what I have checked so far:
Exhaust - no white smoke
Oil - Looks fine no evidence of antifreeze
Replaced radiator cap
Hoses and clamps appear to be good
No fluid leaks found
Compression - all cylinders 145 psi +/- 1 psi
Exhaust gases in radiator - no evidence, fluid remained blue after test
Bleed air from system - was hearing the "waterfall" noise from within dashboard when accelerating. Put car on ramps, took rad cap off and ran for 45 minutes. Saw lots of big air bubbles at first then bubbles stopped. The overnight pressure retention stopped for about 2 weeks / 150 miles - but now has returned.
So it seems clear that air is being pulled into the radiator from somewhere. Beginning to think I have a small head gasket leak that is not showing any other signs. Any other potential source that could cause air to be pulled into the radiator?
2003 PT Cruiser won't start immediately after short trip with a short stop. Always does start after turning the key and holding it to start position. The check engine light is often on and the code is for a cam shaft sensor or resistor sensor. A companion problem is the cruise control. If the check engine light is OFF and I use the cruise control, it works fine for a while and then the check engine light comes on at the same instant the cruise control turns off. Are these 2 issues connected? How much should it cost to have the sensor replaced? The car always stays running once it starts and the problem occurs randomly. What are the consequences of not repairing it?
View 1 RepliesI purchased a second used 2006 GS300 from an ex colleague.
I've put about 5,000KM on the car, it currently has 195,000KM.
The car is/was mechanically great, until this week when I had some cooling issues..
First sign of problems was when I noticed steam bubbles in the expansion tank after the engine was turned off. I was actually filling up with oil as the oil warning light came on - 2nd time in 5000km but I guess that's normal for a car of this performance, size and age. I hadn't noticed overheating sings at this point but I remember fans being generally noisy (In SA it's in the height of summer so I didn't think much of it).
Temperature seems to be rock solid in the middle of the gauge, something I noticed as it gets very hot here and traffic is sometimes quite bad.
The next day I had been driving about 15 minutes on the motorway and I noticed the temperature gauge was suddenly in the red. I pulled over, noticed expansion was empty and filled. Decided to carry on another 5 mins as I had 2 small kids in the car and it's not a safe place to be (side of the motorway).
I finally found the radiator cap after I was recovered home and filled up with water (appeared to be very empty).
Next day little loss in expansion tank, low miles driven.
Next day needed to drive out a little further, about 50KM later the temp gauge started flipping hot then in the middle, hot then middle and then the engine warning light came on and the stability control light came on!
I was carrying water so filled up quite a lot of water again and the car started up perfectly and I returned home.
Since then I've been trying to investigate the problem, I will bullet point finding...
no obvious leaks
no oil in water / water in oil
no apparent general overheating (except the 2 times with water loss)
AC and heating working perfectly
no performance loss
driving lightly, up to temp no steam bubbles in tank w/ engine off
driving heavy at working temp leads to steam bubbles even when off
replaced radiator cap - no change
Radiator cap off and engine running cold, small water movement with a light sucking/bubbling - seems like air is sucked in every 10 seconds or so (very small volume of air into a tine whirlpool then air bubbles back). This I paid attention to, it settled down when engine heated up. Revving engine shoots water out of radiator - noticed when trying to get temperature up, I believe this is just the pump spinning up and normal.
Three times this winter, during or after a several day freeze, my car won't start without lots of gas peddle pumping. AAA tech said it was water in the gas and recommended HEET. I've used it with apparent success but wonder why I've never had this problem before in over 50 years of driving in the Seattle area.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
View 3 RepliesGot a bit of a problem with my car. Earlier this week, I got in and noticed there was heavy condensation on the inside of the windshield of my 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible. The windows had been rolled up and the top up of course. I see this kind of condensation happen on the outside a lot in the mornings. You know, dew settling and all that. If I wait around until later in the day, it evaporates on its own.
Anyway, this time it was on the INSIDE. I wiped it clean easily enough and was on my way.
Today I noticed that my heater wasn't working. The temperature gauge goes up to about 1/3 of the way, so I know the car is warming up. I'm not sure if it normally goes up that high; I don't usually pay much attention to the temperature gauge.
I have an '06 Sebring convertible, 2.7l, V-6, 58,000 miles. When stopped with A/C on, car tends to surge. When I put in neutral, surging stops. Also, I sometimes get a "thump" (with both sound and feel) like I've been rear-ended, but have not. Dealer did tranny serivce and replaced all plugs and 2 coils which they said were "arcing". Did not fix problem. What would be wrong with A/C so as to cause this?
View 5 Replies2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
View 1 Replies