Chrysler - Sebring :: 2004 - Transmission Will Not Go Into Reverse
May 23, 2012
I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
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I own a 2007 Chrysler Sebring touring. I bought it used with 34,000 miles in 2009, and so far, haven't had too many real problems with it. Unfortunately, I'm rounding the ~65,000 mile mark and some weird things are finally going on. The transmission light comes on for a few days then turns off - for a few weeks one time, then it came back on for a day, and hasn't been back on for a few months. Also the Airbag light will bing on for a few seconds, turn off, then a few minutes later come back on, and this happens randomly. (It also recently threw a wheel weight it seems, but I'm familiar with how to fix that issue!)
A mechanic friend of mine told me that rather than paying money to repair this car, that I should get rid of it - he suggests Chryslers like mine become junkboxes right around 65,000 miles.
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I have 2004 chrysler sebring and lately when I'm at a light/stop sign the rpm gauge fluctuates between 1000 and 500 and wants to stall. I've been told to change the spark plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body, and put in a new air filter. What else I should do?
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I've gone over every square inch of the rear seats, from both inside and from the trunk, and can't figure out how to fold the back seats down... Usually, there is some kind of latch that you pull, but all I find are baby seat restraints. And from the trunk, I can't find anything. Do these seats fold down at all?
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My 2004 Chrysler Sebring with 128K miles is making a loud whirring noise when I accelerate. It does not happen when I break, coast or am idle. I live in a city and potholes are a way of life. I got four new tires in November and had the alignment checked and fixed at the time. What it could be?
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I have 2004 Chrysler Sebring base model 4 cylinder with 90,000 miles. Paid off long ago. The schedule says its time to change the timing belt but no symptoms. No other issues and have kept up the maintenance. The cost is around $1000. I need the car to last 2 more years until our new car is paid off. Should I do the repair or play the odds that it won't break down?
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I have been driving a 2004 Chrysler Sebring for a few months and noticed that it didn't always stay in gear. I then learned of a problem with another Chrysler model in which there is a "false park" between park and reverse where it seems like the car is in park but it really isn't, and the car will pop into reverse and move. I am not sure if I have the same defect or if there is something else wrong with my car. Sometimes the shifter will move out of park, or even out of drive, with the slightest of nudges of the shifter. There is a button on the shifter that is supposed to be depressed in order to shift, but sometimes it can be moved from park to any other gear, not just reverse, without depressing it or having a foot on the brake. I also found that it would move from drive to neutral while the car was in motion.
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If I make a right turn at anything above a snail's pace, my emergency brake light comes on and it chimes. Had the brakes checked and they are fine for now but since they are original, they will need to be replaced soon. The car has 50,000 miles. Recently had the cam sensor replaced and the dealership checked the car over.
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I'm attempting to replace a front wheel bearing and hub assembly on a 2004 Chrysler Sebring. I've removed all the hub bolts and all other more external components. I've tried hammering the assembly, reinserting the bolts partially and hammering those, a slide hammer, liquid wrench...
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I have a 2004 Sebring. The A/C had been working intermittently, now not at all. When it was working, if I went over a big bump or hit a pothole, it would stop blowing cold. Now it will not blow cold through the dash vents, but the defroster still blows cold so I believe there is enough coolant. The mechanic has discouraged me from investigating saying it will be very expensive to take the car apart to diagnose.
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My friend's '04 Sebring is still overheating even after these steps have been taken: heads were warped -- had a professional shave them down and rebuild engine; new radiator; new thermostat; then removed thermostat to try this way, and bled the system for air bubbles (more than once).
The car can run about five miles - then bubbling/boiling in the water recovery tank. The mechanic said there is a small crack on the water reservoir (a small plastic box) near where the bolt connects to the engine. Could this crack affect the pressure of the system and cause this overheating?
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My son has a 1987 Chrysler 5th Ave. The transmission (auto) does not want to shift in reverse. It does go in neutral and forward. And it drives well forward. How to fix this?
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When backing up in reverse I come to a stop and shift into drive. About 60% of the time it slams into gear (Drive). It feels as if someone rearended me. It's a 2012 Chrysler Town and Country with 40K miles. 2 dealers worked on it, reprogramed the computer and replaced 2 seloniods and the problem is still there. What is wrong but said thats typical on that 6 speed. What to do next?
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Got a bit of a problem with my car. Earlier this week, I got in and noticed there was heavy condensation on the inside of the windshield of my 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible. The windows had been rolled up and the top up of course. I see this kind of condensation happen on the outside a lot in the mornings. You know, dew settling and all that. If I wait around until later in the day, it evaporates on its own.
Anyway, this time it was on the INSIDE. I wiped it clean easily enough and was on my way.
Today I noticed that my heater wasn't working. The temperature gauge goes up to about 1/3 of the way, so I know the car is warming up. I'm not sure if it normally goes up that high; I don't usually pay much attention to the temperature gauge.
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I have an '06 Sebring convertible, 2.7l, V-6, 58,000 miles. When stopped with A/C on, car tends to surge. When I put in neutral, surging stops. Also, I sometimes get a "thump" (with both sound and feel) like I've been rear-ended, but have not. Dealer did tranny serivce and replaced all plugs and 2 coils which they said were "arcing". Did not fix problem. What would be wrong with A/C so as to cause this?
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2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
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My oil light comes on when I stop but goes off when I'm driving. I check the oil level and it was fine. What would cause this? It's a 2001 sebring 2.7L
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring that broke down. Unfortunately it ran out of oil, and I was told that the car has 2 sensors that detected the lack of oil and shut down the engine. A local auto repair shop replaced the sensors. I paid the bill and began to drive the car home but I only got 20 miles away when the engine blew. My question is, if the the shop told me the car was fixed and then the engine blew, aren't they somehow liable for this?
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I recently brought my 2000 chrysler sebring in because the alarm was going off at random times (3:00am). Also when I was driving the interior lights would turn on and off and the dash readout would say "DOOR" as if I had opened the door, there was a relay clicking sound under the dash and the car would also try to relock the doors. This was an intermittent problem, occasionally the car would be fine for a while then the show would begin. I took it to a local Chrysler dealer and they diagnosed the problem to be the BCM or Body Control Module.
My conclusion is that this whole problem was caused by a shorting door switch and that either they misdiagnosed the problem and when the new BCM did not fix the problem they found the real problem in the door switch or they just scammed me from the start. I think the "part exchange program" is a scam. Why don't I get the part back or why don't I get two prices, one if I exchange the part and one if I don't.
Could a faulty driver door switch damage a BCM? (I never heard of this before. In fact another dealer told me all he needed was the VIN to see if the part was in stock).
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My daughter's 2001 Chrysler Sebring began "shaking and jerking" last night. She described it as similar to when a person drives a standard transmission that doesn't know how to do so. (Her car is an automatic.) She had been driving it for about ten minutes without a problem and had luckily just turned onto a residential street to pick up a friend. She said the check engine light came on as well. She was able to limp it to her friend's and leave it parked there.
Recent work on the car includes the thermostat being replaced and a resistor related to the heater blower motor being replaced. What might be causing this. She's probably going to have to have it towed.
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ASD Fuse keeps blowing. I unplug PCM and fuse no longer blows. I plugged in pin 41-80 and the the fuse is still ok. Car just quit running and starter will not turn. Does pin 1-40 control starter and fuel?? Could I have a bad PCM??
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