Chrysler - Plymouth :: Occasionally Missing With Popping Noise When Accelerate
Feb 26, 2016
I have a 2000 Plymouth minivan. About a year ago it would occasionally miss. I thought it was bad gas and began adding alcohol with every fill up. This hasn't worked and the problem has gotten worse. Now, whenever I accelerate it misses and I get a popping sound that seems to come from the engine compartment or under the drivers seat. When I get up to speed it seems to run okay. The problem is worse when the engine heats up.
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My neon has a leak that was diagnosed today as a rear main seal. I realize this is an expensive repair and am wondering two things:
1) Can I limp it along until next Spring by adding oil as needed?
2) Can try stop leak additives? If so, which one?
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Plymouth Grand Voyager has been randomly stalling. If I'm driving the van will auto restart if I wait long enough. If it stalls as I'm coming to a stop it usually will restart without trouble. If it stalls while I'm stopped already then sometimes it refuses to restart. Once it wouldn't restart so the cops push it to a nearby parking lot and then it started right up, as if the move shifted something. Today I had a similar experience, where it refused to start, so I let it roll and abruptly braked and then it started. This problem disappeared during the winter.
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Alright here comes another head scratcher, the car has no check engine lights, no oil is leaking, and all of the liquid levels are at their normal readings. The problem I am having is the car feels like it is dragging a bit, as in it takes a bit to accelerate and as soon as I lift my foot off the gas it drastically slows down.
Talk about 0 to 60 in 30 seconds and 60 to 30 in 5 seconds. Now what I have noticed is every time I pass a radar detecting sign, to make sure you are going the speed limit or slower, which in this case it is supposed to be 25 mph, my speedometer will read 30 to 35 mph, but the sign will state I am going 23 or 24 mph.
I know the detector is working because I tested it with my dad's Buick and while the Buick stated 20 the detector also stated 20, I know what you are saying maybe it's just a fluke, well I tested the detector with my brothers cougar, my sisters Honda, and my friends Chrysler and they all stated 20 both on speedometer and the detector. I have changed the spark plugs, the ecm, the ignition coil, the spark plug wires, starter, the valve cover gasket, hoses that were broken, the speed sensor, cam shaft position sensor and it passed the state inspection.
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My 2004 Chrysler Sebring with 128K miles is making a loud whirring noise when I accelerate. It does not happen when I break, coast or am idle. I live in a city and potholes are a way of life. I got four new tires in November and had the alignment checked and fixed at the time. What it could be?
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry SE with just under 51,000 miles on it. Every time I put the car into reverse and accelerate to apprx. 2-4 MPH then apply the brakes, I hear a loud popping noise, and it sounds like it is coming from the passenger front wheel. Slight noise from the drivers front as well. This doesn't happen in Drive, only in reverse at a low rate of speed. My father and I have taken the front wheels off and tested it, seems to be a motor mount, curious if this seems rational or common in a newer car.
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2014 GT ... I'm hearing some type of noise whenever I reach an incline, accelerate or turn the car occasionally. To get a mental picture, I would imagine it sounding like a loose screw rolling to and fro inside the rear drivers side door or backseat. I've looked inside the car and don't see anything.
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So I just noticed now that my car is popping slightly at idle occasionally...It doesn't do it all the time and the idle is kinda lumpy but always holds at 800-900. Sometimes it drops a bit lower.
Also when starting it up in the morning, or when the engine is cold it doesnt rev up to 1500rpms it just starts and immediately drops to 800-900??
When I press on the gas and keep the pedal at one spot, say 2000rpms, it slowly drops down to 1500??
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92 lebarron conv. 4 cyld. non turbo
New cap, rotor, and plugs
Misses on 3 and 4.
When pull plug wires engine doesn't change. When pull 1 or 2 it dies. When put in gear it chugs and dies.
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Used 2000 Town & Country is a great ride EXCEPT it occasionally will not start. All the electrical systems work except the starter does not activate. No connection to temp. Happens when cold or when hot. Sometimes cuts off when running and will not start. With the ignition in run position prior to starting, the check engine light does not light up and starter doesn't work. When in run and the check engine light comes on the starter will work and starts easily.
Sometimes in run position the check engine light is flashing and starter will activate for split second before light and starter quit. It's gone for months without happening and I fantasize that it has miraculously healed itself then it will happen once, or perhaps daily for a week. Sometimes wait +/- 1/2 hour and it cranks right up. Sometimes it won't crank for a day. Have replaced computer twice, various sensors (cam shaft sensor?...I'm not a mechanic) Our very competent mechanic won't let us bring it near his shop.
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My 2009 PT Cruiser has about 38800 miles on it and in the last two weeks, only when I turn my air on, it has started bogging down and missing when driving or idling... What would cause this? Changed gas and that didn't work.
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I have a 1997 Cirrus. The ABS light came on about 2 weeks ago -- this is after i drive about 30 yards. The brakes seem to be operation ok and when the light does come on there is no bell or chime sounds to indicate something is wrong. ALSO, the RPM gauge just started to not work. Occasionally it may operate correctly but most of the time it just sits on zero. What the fault or faults are?
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My M5OD in my 1999 Ranger 4x4 with 3.0 occasionally pops out of 3rd gear. I think it does it only under light throttle or coasting. Also some vibration, especially in 3rd gear. Once in a while the gears grind when shifting into third. Truck has 145,000 mostly highway miles. Frequent fluid changes with Redline D4ATF.
What could be the cause, bad synchros ? How hard is it to remove the transmission and make a repair for something like this, what kind of special tools, etc. I assume a transmission jack would be real useful, what else would I need other than the normal wrenches and sockets ? Is there a good shop manual recommended for doing this repair ?
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Have a p0401 code which I need to diagnose and solve. However, I don't believe the symptoms are indicative of the EGR system. Its a 1999 4.6L auto approximately 200k miles. Truck runs fine until it warms up, and then occasionally it begins to act like its missing under load. steady state on the freeway it may have an occasional miss, but put a load on the motor and the miss becomes real bad. This doesn't seem to me to be symptomatic of a P0401 code, but I don't really understand the EGR system enough to be sure. Searching on the forums for other p0401 codes doesn't seem to have the same symptoms.
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I have a 2005 FX4 with a 5.4L. I have noticed in the past 3 months that when I mash the go pedal hard the engine misses and there is a popping sound. My gas mileage has gone down 2-3 MPG.
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All stock 460 in a 1987 1-ton 4x4. The carb has lost it's cookies I think. It (all of the sudden) developed this massive flat spot right after I shift gears and open the throttle. It falls on its face, then catches and slams the whole damn truck.
Also pop-pop-pops really badly when I downshift and occasionally backfires when I shut it off. I'm (barely) smart enough to know that it's getting excess fuel dumped through the engine. I just pulled out both float adjusters, cleaned them, and reset float levels and it made no difference whatsoever.
It's my only vehicle and it's barely drivable.
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1994 Maxima SE 5 speed manual with 178k runs great when engine is cold, then a cylinder starts missing. Symptom is worse in low gears. Then, miles and miles without a miss. Replaced rear ignition coil and it seemed to fix the problem... for about 20 miles, then it started missing again. And stops missing… for miles.
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I own a Mitsubishi Lancer 2005 model, From the past recent days I feel some kind of missing with the car, when we try to accelerate it. It seems to be some kind of fuel injection issues. I think doing a fuel injection service would be better. I didn't have much knowledge about car repair.
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My 98 Chrysler sebring has a fast idle at about 1500, occasionally dies but will restart, and has been making the garage smell like gas. Can't seem to figure out the problem.
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I have a Chrysler 300m 2004, 3.5. I have done a replacement of the timing belt at 100 000 mark with a chrysler dealer.
It has been misfiring for a while since. I brought it to a dealer who told me that the camshaft crankshaft and oxygen sensors need to be changed. So I did. (camshaft and crankshaft were changed with the dealer. Oxygen sensor was changed with independent with generic not factory sensor because the dealer did not have it.)
It did not solve the problem. Now the car is shaking and sometimes cannot accelerate. I even change spark plugs and battery. I brought it to an independent, the mechanic told me that there is 3.8 degrees difference between cam and crankshaft sensors. They are out of sync and suggest that I should bring back to the dealer who replaced the timing belt.
When I brought the car to the dealer, they told me that chrysler 300m 2004 tolerates up to 12 degrees difference so the cam and crankshaft are not out of sync. Nothing to do with the timing belt that they installed. I called the independent mechanic but he told me that in general it's 1 to 1.6 degree.
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The other evening my 2006 Town & County 3.3L would not accelerate well and I though I detected a miss while trying to accelerate. Also, when I got it up to around 55mph and would try to accelerate to pass, the engine would kick clear up to over 4000rpm and barley accelerate. I checked the plugs, the were fine, changed the plug wires didn't make any difference. The van had about a half a tank of gas in it, so I went ahead and filled it up, and that didn't change anything. I let the van sit overnight and the next afternoon took it out on the road and it seems to accelerate fine now.
The only thing I'm still noticing at this point is that with the transmission in park, when I try to rev the engine up to around 3000 rpm, it starts cutting off/missing very badly at around 2800 rpm.
My 99 grand voyager with 3.3L does not do, so I'm wondering if still have some kind of issue on my 06 or is there something on the newer vans that limits the rpm in park, it doesn't seem to be cutting out or missing at that rpm range now while driving.
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