Chrysler - Plymouth :: 1998 - Slows Down When Lift Foot Off Of The Gas
Nov 17, 2015
Alright here comes another head scratcher, the car has no check engine lights, no oil is leaking, and all of the liquid levels are at their normal readings. The problem I am having is the car feels like it is dragging a bit, as in it takes a bit to accelerate and as soon as I lift my foot off the gas it drastically slows down.
Talk about 0 to 60 in 30 seconds and 60 to 30 in 5 seconds. Now what I have noticed is every time I pass a radar detecting sign, to make sure you are going the speed limit or slower, which in this case it is supposed to be 25 mph, my speedometer will read 30 to 35 mph, but the sign will state I am going 23 or 24 mph.
I know the detector is working because I tested it with my dad's Buick and while the Buick stated 20 the detector also stated 20, I know what you are saying maybe it's just a fluke, well I tested the detector with my brothers cougar, my sisters Honda, and my friends Chrysler and they all stated 20 both on speedometer and the detector. I have changed the spark plugs, the ecm, the ignition coil, the spark plug wires, starter, the valve cover gasket, hoses that were broken, the speed sensor, cam shaft position sensor and it passed the state inspection.
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My transmission bumps every time it slows down to 30 mph, dealer said needs to be rebuild.
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I own a Chrysler 300 touring. It's 2006 and its automatic transmission. I was driving on the highway and I reached 60mph then I heard a sound and a rough push and suddenly the car started loosing speed. It didn't loose power. Luckily I was getting off the highway and turned on the hazard lights, I made it into a neighborhood and let the car reach 0. When it did I pressed on the accelerator and it started moving.
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My neon has a leak that was diagnosed today as a rear main seal. I realize this is an expensive repair and am wondering two things:
1) Can I limp it along until next Spring by adding oil as needed?
2) Can try stop leak additives? If so, which one?
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I drive a '99 Chevy Tracker with the 2Liter engine, a 5 speed manual transmission and 110K mi. on it. When I lift my foot from the throttle pedal in preparing to shift gears the engine takes a very long time to reduce it's RPM. This is a problem, when up shifting, as the transmission is spinning too fast for smooth gear engagement.
The engine idles normally under all other circumstances. It is only slow to decelerate whenever I lift my foot from the throttle pedal. This makes up shifting very slow and/or causes the gears to sometimes grind slightly.
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Plymouth Grand Voyager has been randomly stalling. If I'm driving the van will auto restart if I wait long enough. If it stalls as I'm coming to a stop it usually will restart without trouble. If it stalls while I'm stopped already then sometimes it refuses to restart. Once it wouldn't restart so the cops push it to a nearby parking lot and then it started right up, as if the move shifted something. Today I had a similar experience, where it refused to start, so I let it roll and abruptly braked and then it started. This problem disappeared during the winter.
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I have a 2000 Plymouth minivan. About a year ago it would occasionally miss. I thought it was bad gas and began adding alcohol with every fill up. This hasn't worked and the problem has gotten worse. Now, whenever I accelerate it misses and I get a popping sound that seems to come from the engine compartment or under the drivers seat. When I get up to speed it seems to run okay. The problem is worse when the engine heats up.
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I have a 1998 plymouth neon that is leaking oil from the filler cap, I have replaced the cap 4 times and it still leaks from this same spot. What it might be?
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There is a low buzz sound when I have my foot on the gas pedal. It doesn't seem to effect acceleration or anything. At first I thought it was a wheel bearing but the noise disappears when I remove my foot from the pedal. The Sebring has 65K miles on it.
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I have a 1998 Plymouth Neon that will start after it has cooled completely, and be fine through out the day, but when I get home from school and I start it again, it makes a strange screeching noise, and after turning off the engine and trying to restart the car, the vehicle will not start again, but all of the lights work, the battery is fine, the alternator is okay, the starter is a brand new OEM part, new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new safety neutral switch, new speed sensor, new battery cables, new camshaft position sensor, the only extra thing it does have is fog lights that were not put in by the dealership, this was done when my uncle still owned this car back in 1999. The only other problem that it has is an Error code of P1899 (Safety/Neutral Switch Stuck) and at times when turning the steering wheel, it will make a screeching noise halfway turned until you let go a bit, and then it is able to completely be turned either way, and one last thing is that the speedometer was a bit erratic one time, while I was driving home on the freeway.
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As I have been going speeds of 60-65mph, all of a sudden it acted like I downshifted or as if I slammed on the brakes. The rpms stay up, and it lasts just a second and continues fine. It almosts acts like something is catching. I had a mechanic replace the rotor and front brakes thinking that was the problem but it did it again this morning. A different mechanic thinks it could be the drive shaft and cv joints although everything is tight and the cv boots aren't cracked or anything.
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Ok, ready for a new head scratcher? After replacing the starter, the battery cables, the camshaft position sensor, several hoses that were broken and/or disconnected, a wire for the transmission "forgot the name of it, but technically it was a cable with a piece of plastic that connected to the throttle", air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery temperature sensor, ignition coil, several missing fuses, I got a new code.
This code came up and I believe it is the same code that came up before, but I think it got masked by the battery temperature sensor and the "random cylinder misfire." It only appears when I reach speeds of 60 mph or above, the code is P1899 and when I took it to Autozone, Oreilly's, and Dick Poe Dodge, they were unable to figure out what the code meant.
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I have a 1994 Black Ford F150 and i was wondering if i could lift the truck 6 inches only using lift blocks (or any other cheap way to get my truck off the ground)....
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ASD Fuse keeps blowing. I unplug PCM and fuse no longer blows. I plugged in pin 41-80 and the the fuse is still ok. Car just quit running and starter will not turn. Does pin 1-40 control starter and fuel?? Could I have a bad PCM??
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I have a 98 Sebring Convertible 2.5L V6 that stalls after 10 minutes of driving at 30mph or even at highway speeds (ouch), but it seems only if the car has been sitting parked for 5 days will the stall occur. If I drive it daily/every other day, she seems to run just fine. Somewhere in between 2 and 5 days, there is sometimes a surge at that distance, but not a complete stall. The stall has been a very specific distance that if I let the car sit for 5 days, I can essentially pull over in anticipation of the stall. When the car stalls, the dash gauges all go to 0 and lose all power steering, but headlights stay on. Otherwise, there's been no noticeable loss of power, rough idle or anything else to indicate a problem. There are no codes on the computer. The stall happens once. I can pull over and immediately restart my car and be on my way without experiencing another problem until I let the car sit for 5 days again.
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My Concorde LXI 1998 been having this problem lately for couple of times a week. It sometimes dies in the middle of the road and I have to turn it on by pressing on the gas continuously. So, it shows the oil leak sign and it doesn't crank up. I crank my car by just pressing on the gas few times. I have attached the link of the video in here : [URL] ....
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I have a 98 Chrysler Concord Lxi with a 3.2 L V6. In the summer time when its hot The car will get warmer than normal (I have figured out that one of the cooling fans is out and needs to be replaced). That said. after running for a few hours on the highway and if sat idle with the temperature raised, if I shut the car off 9 times out of 10 when I go to restart the car it will crank and crank but will not fire. My guess is the computer shuts the fuel off.
I have to wait about 30 minutes and it will start. Sometimes it will start very rough with a carbon smell and the need to idle it high until it smooths out. Other times It will start with out having to wait but the idle is again rough and can smell carbon. I have looked online and found some have a solution of releasing the pressure of the fuel line as it could be a symptom of vapor lock. I have tried this and no pressure is released ( I have disconnected A/C Lines on previous cars only to find a large BOOM a mess in the garage and in my shorts!) so I know I am releasing the right Scraeder valve.
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I just bought a 1998 Chrysler Sebring convertible. I love the car, however I am having a small problem. Every-time I leave the car, the passenger side door locks automatically. The manual says in-order to turn off the auto lock, you have to turn the car to on (without starting it) four times, then hit the lock button. I did this but the auto lock is still on.
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Chrysler 1998 Lebaron. The door locks will run constantly, they go up and down when driving and when parked, the same with the lights...now finding that in the middle of the night the car alarm is going off for no reason...also finding that the dome light will not shut off
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I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 67,600K. The engine is starting to stall shortly after driving a few miles with no warning other than the engine light coming on. I can put the car in neutral and it will start right up and run just fine. The engine temperature is fine.
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My 98 Cirrus (V6 automatic) is not starting. The battery is working fine and it lights up everything...the wipers, headlight, the turn signals etc.... But when I turn on the ignition...nothing. I hear a mild thud followed by a brief hissing sound when I turn the key from the 1 position to the 2 position (referring to a 0-1-2-ignition key positions)...like "thuh...sssssss." It seems it comes from the underside of the car. Then when I turn from the second key position to start the engine, I get no response at all. I tried putting the gear in park / N...but no difference.
The weird thing is, approx 15 min before I attempted to start the car, I had to drive the car across the parking lot. It ran fine at that time. Could it be a fried starter motor?
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