Chrysler - Pacifica :: 2006 - CEL On / Code P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfiring
Aug 27, 2014
So my Pacifica, after a long road trip around a year and a half ago, had it's check engine light come on. The meter read P0305, which is cylinder 5 misfire. When I got home, my local trusted mechanic replaced the coil and wire. Since then, the same misfire has occurred at least 4 times, and 3 of which he replaced the same parts (free warranty swap of the parts). The last time, he was determined that it wasn't simply the parts going bad. I concur. It has now lasted roughly a month and the light is back on with the same code. The spans have been as little as a week between leaving the shop and the light coming back on. I personally don't feel the car riding rougher than normal, but my wife does. I don't smell gas, have odd colored exhaust, or any other issue. The only other thing, which idk if it's related, is a clicking noise from the engine, which quickens with revving, perhaps the risers. What else could it be? I read that Chrysler's go to is a valve spring retainer lock and a MAP sensor that accompanies it.
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I'm getting a P0305 error code (#5 cylinder misfire) on my wife's 2007 sonata. Wanted to know where cylinder # 5 is located. Also, it would be useful to know where all cylinders are located, for future reference.
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I own a cirrus 2000 which lately have been giving me trouble. I took it to a mechanic for tune up and ended up having a lot of issues. At the moment I am having a lot of rattle or hard driving. The car shakes alot and recently I took it for a diagnostic and the result was P0303 and P0305 and vacuum leak. What causes this problem and how can I get it fixed?
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I have a Chrysler pacifica 2006 .Later in 2009 I had a problem ( 'tapping noise' coming from the engine). I took the car to the dealer, since at that time I still have warranty (39,000 miles). They changed: 18 arms (6 of each type) 8 dowel pin, belt and the lifters. Last year I started hearing the same noise again. The car was with 56,000 miles. I thought it should be under the warranty (service done), but it wasn't. So I decided to have the dealership servicing the repair. This time the part changed was only one. The receipt says they changed the 'arm-inlet and exhaust valve'. Guess what ? the noise still there and they say they won't open the car without me paying for the diagnosis ( many hour of labor for sure!).What can I do?
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I drive a 2006 Pacifica and lately the engine has been causing me some grief. When I am in park, neutral, or in gear but stopped, the engine will sometimes rev up and my speedometer will jump accordingly sometimes as high as 30 mph. My first thought was that it might be a transmission issue, but I'm not a car mechanic so I don't know much along the lines of what to check or do. The model is an automatic 3.5L
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I own a 2006 Chrysler Pacifica and during cold winter months ALL my windows ice-up significantly on the interior. To the point it is clearly a safety issue. Visibility is 0 due to the frost. I have to have the defrost on high at all times just to keep the front windshield clear, which results in making the cabin EXTREMELY uncomfortable (too hot)...for the driver and passenger. The floor mats are not saturated with water, I have NO wet towels in the car...etc. This has been happing from day one and the dealer, well...same old story...they say it's caused by my floor mats and there is nothing wrong....BUT this is NOT normal. I can send a video that shows the issue if you would like.
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We have a 2006 Pacifica which as of recent has been slow to warm in the cabin, especially after a couple hour rest (oddly enough, it warms faster after sitting overnight). Also, when checking the fluids, we noticed that the coolant reservoir was just about empty. We added more 50/50 HOAT coolant, maybe 40-50 oz to get it normal cool engine level. This was done when the engine was cold. My wife noticed that the engine has been running warmer than normal. Normal is maybe a quarter the way up on the temp gauge, where it was around the halfway point, still far from the red zone but not its normal level.
This symptom has been going on for maybe a week. After adding additional coolant, the level stayed where we filled it as the engine warmed up. The heater warmed up to a normal level from what I can tell (it is 30 degrees warmer than last week) so it didn't start with a freezing cabin. I haven't seen any leaking of coolant, since I'm sure I would notice a hot pink puddle under the car. This is pretty typical or the sign of something major. It has around 80k miles on it.
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I have a 1999 ford ranger 3.0 6 cyl with 211,110 miles It started running rough without any previous warning signs. In idle its barely noticeable, once i put it in gear it gets rougher and when driving around 40 to 45 mph it roughly shakes and shimmies. Once I get past the 40 to 45 mph range it settles back down. Is there a specific issue that would cause that at that speed. When going up over a bridge the check engine light blinks.
I changed the spark plugs and new wires and it offered no success even though one of the plugs were black (to much gas). I have borrowed a diagnostic tool and got P0305 cylinder 5 misfire, I am thinking fuel injector to replace, what else should I be looking at?
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We just purchased a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica with 21,000 miles. However the EVIC system does not come on. I understand you need to remove the dashboard to change the fuse, which is soldered onto the circuit board. So we need to purchase circuit board to replace a fuse??
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My 2004 Pacifica (130k miles) was left parked for 2 weeks while we were away. Upon return it didn't wqnt to back out of the parking spot. After about 1/2 revolution the wheels made a clanking sound and hung up. Rolling back and forth freed things up enough to drive the car to the mechanic (about 40 miles). And after the first mile or so everything seemed to go back to normal, with no absolutely signs of anything not wanting to turn smoothly.. The mechanic thought that the problem had been that the brakes were sticking due to the car being unused and said nothing needed to be done. However, upon examination he found that we could use new front brakes and 2 motor mounts. He said that the need for brakes and motor mounts was due to normal wear and tear, and was not related to the wheels hanging up issue.
But now, immediately after installation of 2 new front rotors and pads and 2 new motor mounts there is a vibration/shudder when braking from anything more than 20-30 mph, which was never there before. The shudder is rapid and sometimes pronounced like going over the warning groves cut into the edges of pavement on the interstate. He thinks that this may be a sign that there is a driveshaft issue, and dismisses it as due to an out of round rotor since they are new. I don't know what to think. By the way, he has always been an excellent mechanic, with a great reputation and loyal following.
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My a/c has worked just fine until about 30 minutes ago. Now, there is nothing coming out of the vents in the front, but plenty is coming out of the rear vents. What could this mean?
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2005 Chrysler Pacifica TouringWhen pressing on the brakes at speeds over 25 the steering wheel wobbles. I have had this problem in the past and it has been diagnosed as warped discs. They have been turned and it fixes it for a while then it comes back and again warped discs. I have had the discs replaced but it has come back time after time.
Just had it checked out and they are saying it again, warped discs and this time cannot be turned need to be replaced but they also showed me I need new lower arms.
What do the lower arms do? And if I do not replace them will I have the same problem later with the front discs getting warped?
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2007 Pacifica with 4.0 will not fill unless you dribble the fuel into the tank. I have cleared the vent hose and know it is clean. Do I need to change the Carbon Filter and Solenoid/Evaporation Valve on the Front of the Carbon Filter?
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I am considering purchasing a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica. It seems to be in excellent shape except for one thing--it makes a very noticeable creaking noise. The noise is coming from the front end and seems to only appear at very slow speeds (like in parking lots). The seller told me up front about the noise, and explained that it didn't start until he had someone "jerk" him out of a snowdrift in Colorado. He says that was about 4 years ago. He tells me he has had the front end aligned, he has had two motor mounts replaced and has had either the tie rods, or the tie rod ends (I'm not sure which) replaced, but the noise is still there. He claims mechanics can't find anything else wrong with it, and they assure him it is safe to drive.
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I have a 2009 Prius that I purchased 6 months ago and have been really happy with it until the last couple of months. As the weather is getting colder appears I have a misfiring problem on start-up
I have had this problem now for a little while and have been trying to get it understood before paying $$ at the dealer for "maybe" solutions.
It started as the weather got colder. Intermittently the check engine light would come on. Then after a few days would go off.
I have considered water in the line: fuel injection cleaner/antifreeze
I have considered bad gas in the tank: problem persists several fuel tanks later
I have recently purchased a trouble code reader/diagnostic that plugs into my laptop. Trouble code is p0301. Cylinder 1 misfire.
I have taken it in to the shop.They tried:
>>moving the ignitor coil from cylinder 1 to cylinder 4,
>>and also tried moving the spark plug from cylinder 1 to cylinder 2.
>>performed compression test. Ok
The dealer suggests replacing the injector line for $1400+.( They did this with warm engine. They have not diagnosed cold engine yet. That is new, read more,...) I still have 5K kilometers left on the power-train warranty. If it is power-train I would like it resolved before warranty expires.
Now. Some new info as of yesterday:
Up till now I was not using the diagnostic monitor real time. but that started yesterday,... Last night when I got home from work while the engine was still warm I connected the diagnostic monitor and went for a drive. Every few minutes I would pull over and refresh the cylinder misfiring data. I had hardly any misfires across all the cylinders at all. Maybe 1 or 2, here or there over the span of a 10 minute warm engine ride. Up and down hilly terrain. Nothing that came close to triggering the p0301 trouble code. I parked the car outside and let it rest overnight.
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The issue with 99 Corolla CE with 147,000 miles....
I have a misfiring P0303 Code - Cylinder #3 Misfire. Here is what has been done in an effort to remedy the misfire. A major tune up, new spark plugs, new fuel injectors, new spark plug wiring, new coil packs, The car runs ok once warmed up but in the morning the engine vibrates until warm and also shivers a little while the car is stopped at a stop light. I have dropped it off at the mechanics a couple of times now to no avail. Once the code is reset it will not display the CEL for a couple of days but the symptoms still remains. The CEL comes back on within 2-3 days with the same code. Really frustrating! Well, at least this time CEL in not flashing like before it comes on and stays on.
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My dad has 2006 passat 2.0T. In December 2010 he went overseas. During his absence the car was parked in garage and not in use.
So one day I decided to start the car and as soon as I turned it on the car made this noise and check engine light came on. Took the car to a private repair shop and found out the cylinder #3 was misfiring. The tune up for this car was due so I had all four spark plugs changed and the car ran fine for few days. Then couple of days later it started making the same sound and this time around the coil for cylinder #3 was replaced.
A few days after that check engine light came back and this time it was blinking and the engine was struggling to run, took it again to the workshop yesterday and this time another coil not sure which cylinder was replaced. (all this is done at a private workshop). I have a hunch that the car is going to run fine for a day or so and the problem is going to come back
I never had any major issues with it up until now. Bought this car new in 2006 from dealer. I am afraid that this might be a start of a downhill roll from here on I will drive the car tomorrow and see how it reacts.
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Went on a trip Sunday, and i saw my engine light come on after i put gas in the car. I pulled over, re-checked the gas cap, and it was fine. Car felt fine.
When i got home, i used my OBD2 scanner, and got the error P0304 Code - Cylinder #4 Misfire. I cleared the error and drove the car some more, no issues.
Yesterday, my wife took the car and she said it was hesitating and sputtering, but the light hasn't come back. I have an appointment at the dealer tomorrow, the car has under 80,000k, so the warranty should kick in.
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx v6 3.0 dohm..my check engine light flashing. then it stop flashing..i did replace spark plug,wires,coil pack..when it start to flash i put it gear the car start to shake and sputter.i really don't know why its doing that the car has about 150000 miles on it..i do get a code p0302 Cylinder #2 Misfire..the new plugs and wires and coil pack is about 2 weeks old..
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So i got two codes.... P0300 and P0305. I am thinking its the coilpacks because i changed the spark plugs a few months ago. Cleared it last week and came back today. What else could it be? And is it ok to just change one coil pack or do i have to do all of them? The recall was done in 2007.
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I'm having the absolute worst time trying to fix my wife's 09 accent. We bought the car in '12 with 45k miles on it, and just hit 109k last month. About a year ago, the car started misfiring badly (hot day, after reaching operating temperature) followed by the CEL coming on, and a cylinder cutting out. I (mistakenly) figured coils, and replaced them. This "fix" didn't last more than a couple months.
I've also replaced the intake manifold gasket, suspecting a vacuum issue, due to the symptoms. While doing that, I put in a new PCV valve. To no avail, as the car still misses, chugs and shudders while accelerating at operating temperature. I've disconnected/checked the sensors on the manifold, the 02 sensors, the evap purge solenoid...I absolutely can not wrap my head around this.
The weird part is that the car starts fine when cold, (with only a split-second hesitation if you goose the throttle) and will run great for about 10 minutes/until it warms up. Then,once it warms up it will jerk, shudder and not accelerate at all unless you knife the gas. After letting off the gas, it goes right back to "misfiring" and the light comes back on. I can shut the car off, restart it, and it will run fine until the accelerator is pressed.
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