Chrysler - PTCruiser :: 2005 - Getting Engine Error Code P0016?
Sep 5, 2015
I just wanted to post this due to the problem I was having with this code. I recently replaced a broken timing belt on my 2005 pt cruiser (non-turbo). Everything went back together, minus the hours trying to get the timing marks lined up by myself. After getting the engine buttoned up, the car would crank and idle, but only after 2000 rpm and the engine code P0016 would show up. I went back into the engine, reset the timing belt, and cranked it before putting everything back together. Worked fine, so buttoned it back up and took it for a test drive.
Bam, same engine code pops up again, only this time the car acted like it wanted to go into limp mode for half a second after driving for a few miles when I was turning around to come back to the house. It straightened up and drove fine. I could drive the car fine even after that, made a few test drives into town. The car would kind of fight limp mode after first cranking the car and accelerating, but then straighten up.
After a couple of months of research and talking to a friend who is a pretty good mechanic, I decided this was an electrical problem. I checked, and sure enough, after looking at the wiring at the cam shaft sensor connector, it was frayed. I spliced it and still had some issues with the code. I had just put a new sensor on it when the belt broke thinking it might be the sensor, so I put the old sensor back on it and now it runs fine, no more light. So, after months of thinking the timing or tone rings might be off, it was just a wiring/sensor issue.
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2006 PT Cruiser Touring Ed. The engine light came on 2 days ago, had it looked at today and the error code p0304 "cylinder number four misfire" was diagnosed. What causes that and what would need to be done to fix that problem?
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I have a 2005 PT Cruiser non-turbo. A short time back, the tensioner bolt broke on the alternator and after spending several months going back and forth with the dealer, I was finally able to find the correct size bolt to replace it. Shortly afterwards, I began to hear a scraping sound coming from the engine compartment. The sound is sporadic, and only lasts for a short time. The sound only appears to happen when the engine is idling down when coming to a stop, and it doesn't always do it.
It doesn't make the noise when accelerating, in fact, the noise quits when I accelerate. The noise sounds like metal being drug on concrete, or a grinding sound. Is this a possible bearing going out on the alternator or possibly the AC clutch/bearing? The noise is not present during normal driving conditions, just when the car is almost at a stop and stops as acceleration occurs. I have reached in to see if possibly a loose pulley/bad bearing on the alternator, but there is no slack there. Is it possible that I have the alternator belt too tight, or is this another issue?
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P0016 - Crankshaft Position | Camshaft Position Correlation
Bank 1 Sensor A
2006 Passat - 3.6L V6
Here is my issue: I was lazy and waited a bit too long to get my oil changed. I finally did 3 days ago. I have been very busy so I decided to take it to a local mechanic to let them take care of it. They flushed the oil, ran other oil through it with a new oil filter, flushed that, then put in new synthetic oil with another new oil filter. They also replaced the air filter.
Everything was fine for 2 days.
Then, while I was driving in stop and go traffic, the "EPC" and "Engine Malfunction" lights came on. There was also a loss of power and the car seems to wait too long to shift gears.
So, I took it back to the mechanic who had it a few days prior. He pulled the code from it (posted at the top), and cleared the code from the car. That mechanic told me that I need a "cam position indicator sensor". He also claimed that what he did had nothing to do with this issue. I decided to check with the dealer. He cleared the code and I left. After clearing the code, the car drove fine for most of that day, then it returned.
I spoke with the VW dealership's shop manager and he said that he does not believe that is the issue at all and asked me to bring it in. He also mentioned a clogged oil line as being the potential culprit.
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What is ABS code 18 2001 PT Cruiser???
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I have an 05 pt cruiser that idles rough sporadically. Sometimes it idles smooth, sometimes it is rough but will calm down when i shift into gear, and sometimes it is rough when i let off the gas and come to a stop sign. When i first crank the car, the idle is rough and will act like it wants to cut out when i first back out of the driveway, but it clears up and drives better after getting gas. I have changed the plugs and wires, which did work, but there is something else still causing some problems. When at cruising speed, you can't detect any stutters or other problems. I looked at the vacuum lines and have a bottle of injector cleaner on 3 tanks of gas back to back with no apparent change. I did put a PCM on it a few years back, is it possible it has gone bad? The gas mileage also has seem to be suffering. I also checked the air filter as a possible problem, but it is very clean.
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I drove the car to town this morning, and then to work without problems. I go to get in the car and the car has no electrical power what so ever. I am going to check the voltage and battery terminals, but is there a fuse that sends power to everything in the car, including lights, horn, etc? There is NO power at all.
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Our 2005 PT Cruiser has a 2.4 liter turbo. We had to replace the turbo at 78K miles due to “carbon buildup and clogged” so said the dealer. I can not get any local mechanic to tell me why this happened or if it is normal. My wife claims it is because I have been using the cheap, mid-grade gas. I tell her, no, it was because of the cheap oil I was using. I am now using synthetic oil. One mechanic said the turbo needs to be “blown out” occasionally, by either high speed driving or fast take offs. Bottom line: What would make the turbo carbon up so badly that it must be replaced? What can I do to have this not happen again around 156K? Must I always use premium gas?
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Ok, here it goes. I was changing the timing belt on a 2005 PT Cruiser. Everything went good until I tried re-installing the harmonic balancer. No one in town carried the tool to reinstall the thing, so I ordered a tool from Amazon. I was installing the balancer, had a box end wrench just holding the bolt that screwed into the crankshaft and an adjustable wrench turning the bearing nut to push the pulley back on. I got the pulley down where the balancer and crankshaft started turning, so I held the box end wrench steady as I snugged the bearing to make sure it had bottomed out when the bolt broke down in the crankshaft.
Now, this bolt had threads at the top to turn the bearing, a shaft, and then about half inch but no more than 3/4 inch of thread at the bottom to thread into the crank and a long shoulder in between. The bolt broke at the bottom where the threaded part started. And, to make things worse, it turns out the bolt is made of pewter and is about 3-4 inches in the crank. I tried to feel for threads with the crank bolt itself, and t appears to be where the crank threads start. There appears to be abut 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch of space on the other end of the broken bolt. I have considered drilling the center out progressively bigger until I could get something in there to back the bolt out, and I am not sure I could get a bolt extractor down in the hole and then turn the thing to back it out.
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Last weekend we had our first warm weather up here in the Finger Lakes. My girlfriend wanted to be able to put down the top on her 2005 PT Cruiser convertible, but for a few months now the power windows and power top have not been working. She was going to take it to the shop, but I said, it may just be a fuse. I looked up the owners manual online, then drove the car to an auto parts shop and replaced the circuit breaker in the fusebox under the steering column, because it controls the power windows. The two passenger side windows started working but not the others. So I bought a fuse tester and tested all the fuses in the dashboard fusebox. They were all fine.
I drove the car some more, and couldn't figure out why the other windows wouldn't work. At one point I stopped but forgot to turn the engine off. I pulled some of the fuses out and plugged them back in, one by one. When I pulled one of them out, the engine stopped. I thought "uh-oh," then turned the ignition key to off and replaced the fuse. When I started the car again the engine light was on. I drove home (about 12 miles). I looked up stuff about the engine light on line and learned that after three trips, if everything is okay, the engine light will go out. That is exactly what happened. So I thought everything was okay except that I hadn't solved the window problem.
Two or three days later, my girlfriend got in the car to go to work in the morning. The car started but the engine light was on, and as she backed up out of her driveway the engine stopped. It wouldn't start again. The starter would just make a ratchety sound. We both figured my experiment with the fuses must have done something. I took the car (by tow truck) to a mechanic, and he didn't see how the fuses could be the problem. It turned out that the starter was bad and had burned out the battery. So I paid to have the starter replaced and a new battery put in. But when we picked the car up, he said what I'd done had nothing to do with the problem. He said the starter had probably been bad for some time, and it was just a coincidence that the car broke down a couple of days after I fiddled with the fuses. Now I'm convinced he's right, and my girlfriend is just convinced that he's wrong.
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I did a timing belt replacement on the car. Checked the marks carefully for alignment since it took me nearly 2 hours to get them right to begin with, started the engine and it ran fine. Now, after putting the car back together again, the car will crank, and as long as I give it gas, idle smoothly at RPM's over 1000. Once I get my foot off of the gas, it will die, and I mean at once, no sputter or anything. I have pulled the IAC valve and cleaned it, and it seemed to do a little better in that i can let my foot off the gas and it will idle around 1000 RPM and slightly below, but it will eventually do the same, and the idle is ruff. I have also noticed while maintaining the higher RPM, there appears to be a slight surge in the RPM as if the car is trying to idle itself even higher off an on.
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My 2005 PT Cruiser (not turbo) is giving me a very frustrating P0700 code and a weird problem. First thing in the cold, autumn, the car drives perfectly fine (through still with the engine code on). Once the day warms up a little, the transmission decides that shifting past second gear is for punks and won't do it, so 30 mph has the engine revving at 3K rpm.
My morning commute is 20 minutes, and in that time, I go up to 50 mph with no issues. Driving home, or any other time of day, becomes the issue. What in the world could possibly be going wrong? I've been trying to hit up the junkyard for a PCM to see if switching that out would work, but it's been too rainy and cold to get out there.
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My 2005 PT Cruiser Limited 2.4 Turbo bucks under acceleration and had displayed the codes for a bad Map Sensor, Throttle Positioning Sensor, and Oxygen Sensor. I replaced both Oxygen Sensors, Map Sensor and the TPS. Each time I replaced a sensor and took it out for a test drive it ran great. The next day my wife is on her way to work and I am on the phone with her, she accelerates to get on the freeway and the bucking is back. The codes it displays now are P2074, P1697 & P0038. All the previous codes except P0038 disappeared when I disconnected the ground cable for 15 minutes after the repair. I start the car every morning for her and run the heater for 15 minutes as it is in the 30's here in the morning and so I replicate that before I take it on a test drive after completing a repair so the conditions are the same.
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I have a 2005 PT Cruiser convertible. 3 times now ghetto accelerator has stuck down. The engine light comes on and after stomping on the pedal and releasing it, the car does not want to accelerate and sitters as if it will cut out. After about a minute everything clears up and works normally. I have taken the car into 3 repair shops including the dealership and they cannot recreate the problem ...
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My engine light went on when driving about 45mph. At same time engine began to bog down, then accelerate - then bog down again.Car is a 04 pt cruiser, Chrysler 4 cylinder Engine light still on and it starts but it seems to be running roughly.
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I have a 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser manual transmission with 91,420 miles. The engine service light came on over a month ago (today Aug. 24, 2012). Little by little, a major tune up, a new battery, new plugs, O2 censors, condenser, wires, PVC valve, new gas cap, gas treatment, two tanks of premium gas, the light would not cut off. So off to the Auto Zone to get analyzed twice the code was P0601. Researching the internet, this P0601 code meant the PCM needed to be reprogrammed by the dealer. I called a Chrysler dealer here in Austin and was told that reprogramming the PCM may or may not cut the light off. So today and $100.00 later, the PCM was reprogrammed and the light was off when I left the dealership this morning. But it turned back on when I was leaving work this afternoon. My car needs the annual state inspection and it will not pass.
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So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
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I have a CEL on my 2007 Avalon so I decided to take it to Autozone to get a scan. Error code P0015 was returned. This code has to do with B Camshaft Position, Timing Over Retarded (Bank 1). I've done a little research and I've read that this could possibly from a dirty screen on the Oil Control Valve, the OCV itself, or the Cam Position Sensor. Before replacing parts, what I would like to do first is to check/clean the screen on the OCV. Secondly, I would like to swap the Cam Position Sensor to a different bank and see if the other bank throws an error. If the other bank throws an error, then I know the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. With this said, I am having trouble locating the OCV and CPS. Where the valve and sensor is located. A diagram would be useful.
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Blower motor will not stop after engine is turned off. Is this a relay switch issue? Motor will run at very high speed. After a few minutes it would intermittently turn on and off. Battery was discharged two days ago. I forget how to test these relay switch, been a while since I've used my old DMM. Anyway, I've got an error code PO4091 (secondary air inj sys insufficient flow, bank 1). I lost the info on the two other error codes, but I will dig it up later and see if at all related.
Off topic. Found a vacuum line broken, reinserted the remainder of the tubing, so good for now on that end. It's by the TEE next to the battery. No wonder this one was stalling around 600 RPM and on low speeds around 600 RPM. New coils wires and spark plugs. Runs smoother now.
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Here's the scoop, was driving down the freeway the other day, car is a 2001 PT Cruiser going about 65-70 MPH when all the sudden it felt as if I had hit something, a loud bump sound which came from underneath the engine, then an immediate reduction in speed and acceleration. After that, I was trying to accelerate the car, the RPMs were revving like crazy but the car would not go more than 15 MPH, while the RPMs were revving and revving, almost as if I was in park.
Got the car to the side of the road, opened the hood and found that the top of the dipstick (transmission) had blown off and shot transmission fluid all over the engine. Unsure of why this happened but sure that was what the loud sound was before the drastic drop in acceleration.
After that I had the car towed to my house, now it will start, but not drive in reverse at all, i'm afraid to try driving it to inspect it further but that's pretty much where I am at right now. There's 117k miles on this car...
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My son's wife has a PT Cruiser, she told me last night that it has a shimmy at 70 mph. What are the causes of this ?
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