A friend at work has a early 2000s chrysler minivan with 3.8 engine. His wife was driving and the oil light began flickering. Naturally she drove on and mentioned it to him a few days later. He checked the dipstick and it was dry. Someone told him those engines are prone to having the "rings stick" once in a while and he should add marvel mystery oil to the crankcase and some in the gas.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry V6 LE.
Yesterday the headlights did not turn off automatically when the car was locked up after being driven for about 30 minutes. Unfortunately, this was not detected until about 8 hours later.
The door locks would not function with the remote and the doors were manually unlocked.
When I got in the car and tried to start the car the dash and dome lights began blinking/flickering, the CD player ejected the CD, and the security light was blinking as it would if the doors were still locked.
The battery was too low to start the car so I jumped the car to start it and got home.
Battery showed 12.7 volts cold the next morning before the car was started. While running there was about 14.3 volts across the battery terminals which would seem to say the charging system is OK. Battery is just under 3 years old.
Doing some testing, I found that the headlights would turn on with the multifunction switch without the car running. In this case they would not turn off through locking the doors even after double clicking the lock button on the remote. The only way to turn them off in this case was through the multifunction switch.
Other testing shows that if the lights were turned on with the car running, they would turn off automatically within about 30 seconds or so when the car was shut off and the doors locked. In another similar test with the engine running and then shut down I also tried the double click lock using the remote and this also turned the lights off immediately.
Based on research on TN site, one recommendation for a similar, but not identical, problem was to replace the multifunction switch. No one suggests replacing the headlight relay or any of the 4 DRL relays.
2006 ~ Noticed the car lights (head lights only) flickering off for a few seconds while driving at night, took it in and they re-set the computer, still is flickering. Without spending 4 hours in labor for them to check every wire?
View 2 RepliesJust today, my '05 Ford Focus began flashing in orange it's O/D Off light. It seems to only happen when I am going over 40mph between 1800 and 2000 rpms. The light flashes for no specific amount of time and doesn't come on at specific intervals. I have also noticed that the car is shifting (it's an automatic) in this RPM range as well. I am worried because I just moved to a new area and am unfamiliar with the automotive services in this area. Another interesting thing that has happened along with this problem is that prior to this, my oil light had been coming on periodically. When I had that checked out they told me it was the oil pressure sensor. However, now that light hasn't gone on and I haven't had that replaced. Am I looking at a lot of trouble ahead with this car?
View 6 RepliesI just bought my wife a 2010 GX 460 and noticed an issue today with 4 Lo. When sitting with the car on, and in park, I engaged 4 Lo. The 4 Lo light began flashing along with a dinging sound. It didn't stop when I put it in drive or reverse, and just continued. The manual states I need to take it into the dealership because there is a malfunction.
View 10 Replies2012 Camry SE I4, non-entune, no roof, Kentucky built in spring '12.
Tonight on the way home, driving in light traffic, roughly 45-50mph seatbelt light came on and began to chime. I was wearing my seatbelt at the time, and had nothing in the passenger seat. When approaching a stoplight, the light went out and the chime stopped upon braking. I am going to take it in tomorrow to have it checked, but am assuming the dealer will find nothing. I looked under the dr. seat and there wasn't anything that could have pulled on the wiring.
So again, briefly:
During light traffic with seat belt buckled properly, seat belt light illuminates and chime starts. Upon braking for stop light the seatbelt light went out and chime stopped.
This is kind of a big deal to me because this is my wife's primary vehicle and the airbag will not work with the seatbelt light illuminated.
My wife has a 2003 Pontiac Grand am GT 3.4L V6. A few days ago my wife was out and tried to start the car and the service engine light came on and began to blink. (Prior to this the car was running well with no service engine light) The car was running very rough at this point so we shut the car off and I pulled the codes at witch four codes came up witch were: P0205, p0206, p0300, p0443. So I had the car towed to the shop and they said that they thought that it was the oxygen sensor but after that had been replaced they had concluded that the oxygen sensor was not the problem so they had placed the old one back in. Then they said that they restarted the car and it was running fine but then pulled it out of the shop and began to run rough again.
At this point they were thinking that there was a short so they checked the wiring from the ecm (?) back to the oxygen sensor and could not find any problems. And needless to say they started the car and it began to run fine again so they told me to come and pick it up and drive it for the weekend just to see if it was a lose connection that was possibly there. So needless to say once I picked it up the service engine light was still on but the engine sounded good so I figured I would drive the car home and maybe the light would shut off. Well upon taking off and getting a few miles down the road the engine started to idol at 2000 rmp when in park or neutral.
So I stopped and pulled the code and got P0443 again so while I had the scan tool connected I cleared the codes to see if the light would come back on with the same code or with multiple again. The service engine light stayed off. So the high idol continued for a few miles I also did try to restart the car and the problem did persist. About 5 more miles down the road the car started to overheat and the reservoir had overheated. So at this point the engine sounds good it is not running rough but is really high idol. The check engine light did not come on since I cleared the codes in that short drive but I do not want to drive it because of the overheating. I do know that the coolant level was good when we started the car.
My 1999 Passat 1.8T (AEB engine) with 120,000 miles has run very well lately.............except for a recent problem. I drove 150 miles on southern California freeways, parked the car for an hour, then started it again. There was a distinct miss and the check engine light began flashing. I turned it off, let it sit for a couple hours, then plugged in a code reader. There were two codes, both the same - P-0302, "Cylinder #2 misfire". I pulled the cover off the engine, wiggled the wiring to the #2 coil, cleared the codes and started it up. There was no miss, maybe there was a little corrosion on the electrical connection?? I know there was a recall on the coils, but my car was too old to participate in the recall. Which it is - bad connection, bad coil, or something else? Or a way to diagnose it further?
View 2 RepliesIt is a 1997 Ford f150 5.4 4x4 extended cab 175k miles. Took a 600 mile trip, first 300 no problems, then the "od" light began flashing, the truck shifted fine so I kept going, drove for about a 100 miles then stopped for fuel and read the code, (p1728) cleared the code and drove another 200 miles, no light no problem. The whole time there was no drivability issues. Yesterday I drove all over town, stop and go traffic, locking the TC and it would also unlock, no problems all day, drivability was fine. What to do?
1. Just keep driving it?
2. Does changing fluid fix this problem?
3. Rebuild the trans, because this was just the first notice.
4. Sell it quick no light and drives fine.?
I have had my 07 now for a few months. The other day during a trip, I noticed my TPMS light began to blink, and then stayed constantly on. I checked my pressures at the end of the day and they were all right where they should be, including the spare. When I start the car, the TPMS light will blink for some time, and then it will go steady and stay illuminated.
Took the car to a tire shop and they hooked the tpms scan tool up to the car and told me I had a bad sensor. I did some reading online today and it seems like a lot of people say the sensors that come from the factory for these cars only last for about 5 years until the internal battery dies.
For what it costs to get one sensor replaced, knowing that the car is 5 years old and the other 3 sensors are prone to fail, I see some people are making little PVC canisters and putting all 4 sensors in the canister and pressurizing it to make the light go away. But my sensors are broke, and if I bought new ones I do not have a tool to program them.
Is there anything that can be unplugged, or a wire that can be cut or grounded to make this stupid, pointless light go away or am I pretty much at the mercy of the tire shop/dealer to replace the sensor and make the light go away?
Wifes car began to idle very rough and check engine light began to blink and beep, I took it to the mechanic today and he informed me that my control module was no good and it was a $400 dollar piece. I said go ahead get it done, cuz she needs the car and i couldn't afford to not have it done immediately. Question I have is does this small-ass piece really go for that much on average and what control module is it?
View 4 RepliesMy 1998 Toyota Corolla has 180 K miles. Two days ago I was putting the pedal down to get to work on time and it bucked, began chugging like a motorcycle and the check engine light (which was already on because of an emissions issue) began to flash. A mechanic looked at it and saw that cylinder 3 wasn't sparking. He changed the plugs and wires but the engine was still chugging, especially when idling. The mechanic decided it was a stuck or burnt valve because he said he could hear/feel a lack of compression in the cylinder. I'm looking for a second opinion on the issue, and a first opinion on the mechanic!
View 5 RepliesI own a 1998 ford f150 4.6l triton v8. I was leaving my house to go on a snowboarding trip about three weeks ago it was a rather warm wet day and all of the sudden my check engine light began to flash. I immediately pulled over and restarted my truck, once it was started again it was solid.
I turned around and started driving towards home. I get a small amount of feedback from my speakers and usually it's a smooth whizzing sound but as i accelerated the sound began to stutter rather than remain smooth. after about 5 minutes of driving this went away and the check engine light remained on.
so today I went out it's also a wet day and it's raining quite a lot. on my way into town everything seemed okay. then on my way home the check engine light began to flash again and the feedback from the speakers became choppy again.
I would also like to mention my battery light is on but it was on prior to the first time this happened. I'm just wondering if the belt could be loose or slipping due to the wet weather?
My 18 year old daughter has a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe that I owned for 8 years before passing down to her. Just recently she was driving when all 4 brakes locked up and the brakes began to smoke when she attempted to drive it to a location where she could pull over. The pedal went all the way to the floor. ABS light is on. Had a tow truck bring it to my brother's house. The tow truck guy was able to back it off his truck and it stopped fine. Later when my brother test drove it, the same problem occurred. My brother replaced the Master Cylinder but it didn't work.
View 1 RepliesI disconnected the battery cable and when I reconnected it the red 'theft' light began rapidly blinking on the dash and ignition/starting was disabled. followed owners manual advice using the key to unlocking drivers door (to re-set anti-theft device) but this did not work. Called two Ford dealers and both say have to tow car in for this to be fixed. Problem is, car is on an island with no towing service available. I'm thinking there must be a way around this. I have two original keys with the key fobs and neither works to fix it by unlocking the door.
View 7 Replies2000 Passat wagon v6.
Both key fob buttons do NOT work but they will manually unlock the drivers door and drive the car. They both had batteries replaced.
Also, every time I open the door, the interior lights will flicker on every 3 seconds until I start the car then it goes away.
This week my oil light came on, really was flickering on and off. I parked it and called the dealer, towed it just in case.
Dealer tested the oil pressure cold and hot, all is good. So they think it is the oil pressure switch, which they said was very unusual with a new vehicle (11,000km). They opened an inquiry with Hyundai, but they have not got back to the dealer yet. So they have ordered a new switch, but to replace it they said they have to remove some manifolds and stuff to get at it, so they have ordered all the caskets etc....
It only seem to flicker when at operating temperature. I really don't like to see them pull manifolds etc... on a new engine, but I need to be sure I can rely on the indicator. Right now the dealer said I have no problems driving the vehicle till the parts come in.
So, I have have an intermittent flickering of the battery light. The weird part is that it ONLY happens between 80 and 85 mph. Any faster or slower and it doesn't happen. It's not a steady flickering, but a random intermittent flicker. What the issue may be? The car has a new (within 2000 miles) battery and alternator. 1.8t with manual transmission.
View 3 RepliesI know this is a common problem, it sounded like the coolant resevoir was the place to start so I replaced it today and I still have the low coolant light blinking, I don't know what else to do.
View 6 RepliesRecently my brother put my battery in my geo metro backwards ( having the best intentions) as I'm sure you know this blew quite a few fuses, I have also changed the computer, the cluster , all the relays , the ECM module & I still have the battery and check engine light on The car does run ( ok) I have tried the diagnostic port but all I'm getting is the green shift light flickering fast. I really want the car back to where it was before.
View 8 RepliesJust going home from work and the oil light started flickering on and off, so decided to get to my local garage straight away, i pulled away from a junction and the engine started to clatter getting louder as i pulled up at the garage where it stands now.
View 15 Replies