Chrysler - Minivan :: 1996 - Brakes Simply Lock Up While Engine Is Still Running
Aug 18, 2011
The wheel and brakes simply lock up while the engine is still running. That is the wheel can not, or with great difficulty and only a tiny bit, be moved and the brakes cannot be pushed down. I did try to pump the brakes four times when the engine was off and each time the pressure increases which I think was a test for brake boosters being OK? The way I got out of this situation was to get off the gas pedal, down shift, close the engine while on the road still and then quickly starting up again, and up shifting to Drive at which point all is normal. It happened before but I was not able to discern if the engine was running or not at that time ( initially when this happened I though the car had stopped actually) but this time there were no fans, no sounds, and a very empty road so I was able to tell that the engine indeed stays on the whole time this happens. I will take this car in but am trying to understand more about this kind of problem.
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I have a 2007 Chrysler T & C minivan. The engine cuts off while driving. Most frequently while turning (to the right!). My mechanic found a loose battery terminal. Nope. Next he suspected the ignition switch which has been a problem with other model years. Nope. Now he wants to try the cam shaft? What could cause it to just die during a right turn? and very frequently.
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Recently, my car has started to run rough with the check engine light on. I cycled the key 3 times and checked for codes. I got a code for the MAP sensor and a code for the 02 sensor. I got no codes for a misfire, so I guess the plugs and wires are okay. I bought a new MOPAR Map sensor and installed it. It still runs the same and the check engine light is still on.. My question is, is it necessary to disconnect the negative on the battery when doing this and for how long? I did disconnect it for about 2 minutes and it still was the same.
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I have a 2006 Town and Country with the 3.3L V6. The last four times I filled the gas tank the engine spits and sputters after running for 2 - 3 minutes. Sometimes it will even stall out. It will re-start after cranking for 4 - 5 seconds and then runs fine. It only does this right after I fill the tank and doesn't do it again until the next fill up. Thought that I might have water in the tank so I added a bottle of HEET to see if it would cure the problem, no effect at all..
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During the winter you have to warm up the car before driving. I have always avoided those after market remote starters and just went out, start the car and lock it with the other key (2 last cars were Passats). the GTI wont let me lock it. This is stupid I am not going to sit in the car and freeze for 15 minutes, is there no way to change this with the menu settings?
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Is there a way to step out and lock the doors with the engine still running?
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I like to stop for a morning coffee en route to work, about 2 minutes out of my driveway. I'd like to keep the engine running during that time to continue warming the cabin, so I have some chance of taking my gloves off at a traffic light rather than once I'm on the highway. It's about 90 seconds that makes all the difference.
However, only a fool would leave it running and unlocked, while running inside the store. The keyfob can't lock the doors like this (it's ignored while the hybrid system is on), so I use the hard-key once I'm outside. However, that's slow and fiddly, especially with gloves, especially unlocking it again when I come out with my purchase in my hands.
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I have a 2012 SE HB. Is there any way to have the remote lock and unlock the doors while the engine is running?
Also, my window lock button locks all of the window roll down buttons in the car except the driver side window button. It even locks the window buttons on the driver side door. Why in the world would it be useful to lock myself out of rolling down a window? Is there any way to fix this so that I can roll down the rear or passenger windows while they are locked for the kids in the back?
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I have a beautiful 1987 560SL. My husband and I bought it about 17 years ago and lovingly refer to her as our mid-life crisis car. Truth be told, we're a bit past "mid" life now and have decided to sell it and let someone else enjoy her. Last summer she started to have an annoying issue and we "thought" it was fixed, but right after I started advertising, she started acting up again.The engine simply dies while driving. It always seems to happen when I've only driven about 5 miles and going rather slow - 20 to 30 mph. She'll start back up after a try or 2 and be fine. We took her to a local shop and the mechanic said one fuel pump was shot and the other was not working properly so we replaced both and all seemed fine the rest of the summer. We garage her for the winter as we live in the Rockies and she's not the most practical car to be driving in the snow and ice. This summer she started right up and was doing well until a few weeks ago - same problem.
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Winter is coming and I often leave the car running in the morning when stopping a few minutes to drop off the kids, etc. (otherwise it all fogs up and I need to wait a few minutes again before I can leave).
Issue is, when the santa fe engine is running, if I close the door, the car beeps for like 5 seconds, every time I close a door. (Close my door, beepppp, get the kid, beeeeeepppppp, get the bag, beeeepppppppppp) and then, I cant lock the doors so I have to leave the car unlocked after it has beeped 3x 5 seconds to alert anyone around that the doors are unlocked and that it's still running.
Hyundai is supposed to install my remote starter next week, which at least will fix the issue of being unable to leave the car running with the doors locked, but the beeping all the time is REALLY ANNOYING. I KNOW THAT MY CAR IS STILL RUNNING. Dealer is telling me they cant disable the beep.
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1996 F350 PSD 7.3
Front Dana 60 mono beam
4 x 4
Last week I broke my front right caliper. I replaced the caliper, rotor and pads. Now, when I apply the brakes I pull to the left. I took the truck into my repair shop and let them figure it out. They were unable to repair the truck. They replace the master cylinder, all brake lines, calipers on both sides, brake pads, bearings on both wheels, vehicle alignment, tire balancing and tire rotation. The tires are three months old. Prior to last week i did not have any problems braking or steering. Driving at 60kmh the truck goes straight until i gently brake, it will slightly pull left.
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What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
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Initially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
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My rear brakes lock up constantly. It doesn't matter how easy I am on the peddle. The ABS goes through it's test on start up. Afterwards, the light goes out. The vehicle sat for quite a long time. I pulled the rear drums and inspected for rust and brake shoe condition. There was no rust to be found and the shoes seemed to be in good shape. I've read on here about some shoes retaining moisture and causing the same thing. These 'seem' dry. I've also read that it could be the RABS. Is there any testing to determine if the RABS is definitely the problem other than by-passing it?
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I have a 1996 Chrysler LeBaron and when it idles it overheats so I did my research and I figured it could be the water pump I replace the water pump and during that process I had to disconnect the timing belt then put the water pump on and reinstall the timing belt when I put everything back together I thought I was done but it didn't start and I'm wondering if it's because the timing is off. I did not reset the timing nor move the camshaft how can I tell what's going on.
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It stalls when approaching intersections, and sometimes in traffic, always can be restarted, have had battery changed, fuel system checks out. have left at the garage and they can never get it to stall, but it still does it and sometimes three or four times during the day. Have not been to dealer, am frustrated and afraid of getting in accident. What might be causing this?
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96 sebring 2.5l v6 non-convertibleRan terribly for 12 blocks when I bought it, then died and wouldn't start.Bought it because friend said that mechanic had told him it just needed the head gasket changedReplaced the head gasket then it would crank but not start
checked, getting spark and compression on all 6 cylindersreplaced:-ecm-crank position sensor-combination distributor/camshaft position sensor/coil-flushed fuel system and replaced gas. checked everywhere for possibly misconnected wires and possible misconnected vacuum tubes, they are all triple checked ok. Checked the timing about a dozen times. Checked for misaligned timing sprockets, all ok, no sheared keyways, valves open and close at appropriate times / correct order and crankshaft timing mark matches cyl 1 position.
Fuel pressure is great.Turns over but doesn't fire at all.
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My 2001 Prius makes this sound when the engine is running. All the battery lights are on all the time, I think it needs a new HV battery but I'm not sure if it's worth it. Perhaps the other battery is faulty I really don't know. All the engine lights are on and if the brake light comes on it starts shaking or the power steering fails or it just completely shuts off on the road no lights no power steering nothing. When that happens I use a battery booster that I keep in my trunk to get it going again but it's really dangerous to drive now.
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my daughter has a 2005 Chrysler minivan -- v 6 automatic -- the transmission will not lock in park -- it free wheels -- only stops moving when emergency break is applied --the wheels will move separately -- will not move the other wheel when in park -- if picked up one wheel -- and in park -- it still moves -- there is a gear that is rubbing the cover in back of transmission -- the upper gear iseems loose -- and wobbly -- is there a simple repair there
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My 96 Town and Country won't start. It turns over and fires for about 1-2 seconds max. After that it only turns over, no fire. The key sign/symptom is that the odometer and PRNL do not light up. This is very sporadic. Sometimes months and months apart. I unhook the battery in an effort to reset the computer. Sometimes it works in 1/2 hr. Sometimes several hours. So I don't think it resets but I still do it anyway. I have replaced the computer but no luck. Could it somehow be the dash cluster?
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I am working on this 2004 van for my sister.... It will idle fine.. when you drive you can get to 25 or so but won't go any faster even with foot to the floor... was thinking fuel filter but you have to buy the whole pump for this car?
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