Chrysler - Concorde :: 1998 - Starts Intermittently / Crank But Will Not Fire
Nov 11, 2014
I have a 98 Chrysler Concord Lxi with a 3.2 L V6. In the summer time when its hot The car will get warmer than normal (I have figured out that one of the cooling fans is out and needs to be replaced). That said. after running for a few hours on the highway and if sat idle with the temperature raised, if I shut the car off 9 times out of 10 when I go to restart the car it will crank and crank but will not fire. My guess is the computer shuts the fuel off.
I have to wait about 30 minutes and it will start. Sometimes it will start very rough with a carbon smell and the need to idle it high until it smooths out. Other times It will start with out having to wait but the idle is again rough and can smell carbon. I have looked online and found some have a solution of releasing the pressure of the fuel line as it could be a symptom of vapor lock. I have tried this and no pressure is released ( I have disconnected A/C Lines on previous cars only to find a large BOOM a mess in the garage and in my shorts!) so I know I am releasing the right Scraeder valve.
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CHRYSLER CONCORD LXI 1999 - problem with INTERIOR LIGHTING . , EVERY SO OFTEN while driving.
My wife and I have had the car for about three years and it is immaculate - within the last year we replaced the computer.
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My Concorde LXI 1998 been having this problem lately for couple of times a week. It sometimes dies in the middle of the road and I have to turn it on by pressing on the gas continuously. So, it shows the oil leak sign and it doesn't crank up. I crank my car by just pressing on the gas few times. I have attached the link of the video in here : [URL] ....
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I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 67,600K. The engine is starting to stall shortly after driving a few miles with no warning other than the engine light coming on. I can put the car in neutral and it will start right up and run just fine. The engine temperature is fine.
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Ii have a '98 sc2 and its been sitting in my yard for a while. It started out one day when i got in it, turned the key and then it turned over but wasn't starting. We hooked it to a computer and it showed no bad signal so we bought a new computer for my car and that didn't work either. We changed the coil packs and the crank sensor and still nothing.
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Let me tell you a story ‘bout my daughter’s 2008 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L…
We have owned the car since 2009. Recently the car has begun to start intermittently. Generally it starts normally. Other times it won’t. It can be driven for a month with no problem and then BAM! It won’t start. No dead battery sound, no clicking, no starter trying to engage NUTT’N!
AND… the brake pedal is firm! The brake pedal is firm and cannot be pushed down!
The car has been to the Dodge dealer several times. They have replaced the starter because a couple of teeth were missing, flashed the computer and replaced the alternator. The car started fine for a few days and then wouldn’t start again.
The Dodge boys kept the car for a week and of course, it started fine while they had it. One of the service managers told me to pull out a certain fuse to reset the computer. They also told me that they usually see these types of problems if the car was jump started wrong (the jumper cables were hooked up backwards I guess).
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I intend to bring our car to the shop, but before I do, I'm curious about what could be making an older car (a 1995 Chrysler Concorde) run "hot" or "high." I think the temperature gauge needle climbs too high, even though the car doesn't actually overheat. It also smells too hot after driving just a few miles. Probably most tellingly, the engine sounds like it's running too high -- even when just idling, it sounds almost like it's being revved.
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Having trans problem & got code P1790 with P0731. I believe I have to replace the output & input speed sensor. Anything else I may have missed here?
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My wife's 2001 Chrysler Concorde can't seem to keep the air in the tires due to leaky rims. Mechanics say they are pitted and that's the best they can do. They have used rim sealant. Can I just use tire tubes until we get rid of this thing?
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My 1997 Chrysler Concorde has oil leaks, trying to keep car till this fall. When I am at a stop light or just sitting and idling, the oil light starts blinking and then stops and blinks again. As so as I give it some gas , it goes out. Someone said it may be the oil sending unit or the oil pump.
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Concorde I bought a little over a year ago. Recently the heater blower has frozen after a night of freezing rain/sleet. This has happened twice. The first time the fan started working again after the temperature got above freezing for a day. A very small amount of heat still comes out of defroster because I can see it having a effect on the foggy window. But the fan will not blow at all. It is currently frozen for the second time. Extreme cold temp don't affect it but freezing rain does. How can I prevent this in the future?
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I have a 98 Ford Ranger 4x4 automatic, in the last year it has developed an intermittent (every 4-6 weeks) no crank problem, it will usually start again within 2-24 hours.I started by replacing the starter motor/solenoid with a re-manufactured one but then about 6 weeks later it happened again. I tried to jump the starter but even then it would not start. I checked all of the fuses inside the truck and under the hood and they seem to be in good condition. The last time it died on me (until today) I called a tow truck but before they arrived it started, I took it straight to a mechanic but they could not replicate the condition! When they tried it started right up.
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I have a 1993 Chrysler Concorde. I bought a brand new Mopar battery about 4 months ago. I don't use the car very much, but I do start and run it at for at least 15 minutes at least once a week. Today it wouldn't start. I last ran it about a week ago. Is it likely to be a problem with the alternator?
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Audio lights but no sound? Chrysler Concord 97. Dealer says replace but what do you think?
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On a long trip (about halfway through a 1500 mile journey), I ran over a tire at 65 miles an hour. I stupidly kept going (as I was heading to the hospital to literally be with my father as he was dying). After 350 more miles (with 5 hours of rest in between) the car was showing hot (with no smells or symptoms) so I pulled into a shop. When the mechanic went out to pull the car in, it would not start. They let it cool and pulled it in, did a test and showed me a tube with the radiator fluid in it that was greyish. They told me my head gasket was blown and that the cost of repairing it was the same as the value of my car. I had to abandon the car, and rent a car to get to my dad. He died, and now I'm having to deal with the car.
The insurance company said they would cover the bumper damage but not the engine, as they could not prove running over the tire caused the engine to overheat. The car has 200,000 miles on it and is 13 years old, but had a new timing chain, pump, etc. ($1,900) of work a few months ago...and was running like a charm. There have never been any concerns about the engine in the past and the car has never overheated for any reason. I take care of it meticulously. It seems suspicious to me that there would be no link between running over a tire earlier that day, and the overheating.
When the owner of the shop put it on the lift, he says there was nothing obvious like a hose hanging down, etc., and so he thinks its unrelated to running over the tire. Because he said this, the insurance company will not cover the engine repair or give me a check for the totaled car.
I'm thinking of having the car towed to a different shop to get a second opinion. What should they look for? How can I prove this is linked? Now, the car has sat for 10 days. Is all evidence going to be gone at this point. What should I do? I have $3,000 to lose here, by giving up.
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I recently started hearing a rhythmic squeaking noise upon decelerating. It doesn't sound as though it's coming from under the hood (such as a belt noise): it sounds like it's coming from the back right wheel area. The noise isn't very loud: it's almost impossible to hear with the radio on. It isn't constant: it gets slower and slower as I continue to decelerate. If it matters, the car is a 1995 Chrysler Concorde. I don't think it's the brakes.
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My 95 Concorde, when I am at a stop, will sometimes hiccup/sputter while idling. It will also sometimes do it when I push on the accelerator when speeding up from say 35mph zone up to 55 – it will do it a few times and then smooth out. But, when I a get to a stop light, it’ will hiccup/sputter a few times – a couple of times it seemed real bad and the car seemed to shake.
When it does this I don’t notice any movement in the RPM needle and seems to idle normally; It’s never died and starts just fine.
The muffler needs fixed – has a hole or something. I was thinking of getting an oil change, replace the air and fuel filter, first.
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All of a sudden, the brakes (rear) are making a rubbing sound. Could it somehow be caused by dust? The car is parked on the street and it's been VERY dry here lately. When I used the car a few days ago, they sounded fine. Reason to bring it to our mechanic or not? It's a 1995 Chrysler Concorde.
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Every now and then, when I start my car, the speedometer needle pegs completely to the right and then settles down and acts normally. Why does this happen and what does it indicate? The car is a 1995 Chrysler Concorde.
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I have a 2000 Chrysler Concorde LXi. It is having an intermittent climate control display problem. It will be lit for weeks/months, and then without warning, the display will disappear. In the past, a smack of the display would cause it to reappear or a press on the lower left of the panel below the display would make the display reappear. Seems as though there is a loose connection. Fuse ok. How to remove the climate control bezel or get to the connections?
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We have a 1995 Chrysler Concorde. It drives fine, but recently I have been hearing a clunking noise (two or three clunks) somewhere in the rear of the car AFTER I turn the car off. It does not clunk while driving or braking or slowing down: only right after the ignition is turned off.
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