Chrysler - 300M :: Driver Side Window Shattered Into Pieces When Closing The Door?
Jun 18, 2011
I have a 2000 Chrysler 300M. Recently I got in the car and shut the door normally, not a hard slam or anything, and the driver side window just shattered to pieces. After having the glass replaced I had my mechanic check out the window regulator thinking that may have have been loose or in some way caused the glass to break. It checked out fine, no problem with the mechanism could be found. I've been using the window since then for about 3 months with no problems. What could have caused this window to crumble?
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I guess the roof needs adjustment since my driver side door won't close if the window is up all the way.
Checked the roof and found there is a larger gap on the passenger side than on the driver side. That causes the unevenness of the roof, I think.
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2000 Camry XLE. Driver's el.window quits on way up, but will start again if I wait for one or more minutes before retrying. The longer I wait, the farther up it will go. Not fun at toll booths on rainy days. Started a few month ago when I forgot to close windows and the controls got rained on. Initially, a blast of WD40 seemed to cure the problem, but no longer. Took arm rest controls out, but couldn't see any obvious problems. Is this an aging motor problem? Do I have to get ripped off by dealership serv. dept., or can any reputable garage do it? I'm worried about taking the whole panel off myself. Don't have the tools to do so, and don't want to rip "leather."
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I can lock the doors with the key fob but it does not beep. The alarm sets, and the passenger doors all lock, but the drivers door does not. I have checked that all doors are closing properly, and the transmission is in park.
I also tried both key fobs with the same result. The alarm LED flashes about 6 times before glowing steady - is this a code of some sort?
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I have a minor squeak opening and closing the driver's door. Any recommendation for the best lubricant to use on the hinges? Is WD-40 acceptable or are there better alternatives?
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My driver and my driver side passenger (slightly) door squeaks when I open and close it. I know it has to do with the door checks. The black plastic thing that holds the door open 1/4 or 1/2 way. I don't want to try something that might not fix it like greasing it. I don't want a glob of grease on there and it still squeaks. Is there a way to adjust it?
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I'm still shopping around trying to find the right ES. I test drove a very clean 2008 today save for 2 things. The interior smelled a little stale. Can't figure out if it was cleaning solvents that were used or if it's a cleaning product mixed with light smoker smell. That was the only thing I noticed initially until I got in for a quick test drive and closed the drivers door.
When I closed the drivers door it had a hollow gong-like sound, like if you hit a big empty metal barrel. A 'bung' sound. I haven't noticed this on other ES's I've checked out. You can kind of pick out the noise on the passenger door on this car, but it's very muted. The passenger door sounds like it's supposed to sound. It sounds solid, more 'chunk'. You could pick out the slight 'bung' if you were listening for it, but normally, all you hear is 'chunk'. But, there's no missing it in the drivers door. There's no rattle in the door or the car in general. Initially, I thought maybe the speaker was loose, but nothing is moving in the door, it just 'bungs' when you close it. Maybe it's out of alignment? It looked straight.
Is there sound proofing in the door that could be missing or loose from a repair?
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My drivers side door just started clicking when opening or shutting ...
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2006 Solara. When opening driver side door it makes a very loud clicking noise at the 1st and also at the 2nd stop. Same thing when closing the door.
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We have been tolerating a bad squeak in the driver's side front door upon opening, closing (any type of swinging of the door). Dealer tried lubricating it with no success. They told us that they would order a new hinge and "hope" that resolves it. I am a little worried about this. Would you trust your dealer to remove and re-install the door or just live with the squeak?
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I recently acquired a 2011 F150 Platinum. Nice truck! It has the automatic deploying running boards. They're nice but one problem: the driver side board takes about 15-17 seconds to retract after closing the door. This is way too long a time. The passenger side retracts after only 2-4 seconds, which is good. The dealer researched this to see if there is any way to adjust the driver side, but found nothing. I'd like the driver side running board to retract sooner after closing the door, like the passenger side.
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How do I access the wiring connector for a driver side door mirror on a 2003 Chrysler Town & Country van? I thought a door mirror replacement would be a simple task.
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I'm not sure if this is just my unit, if so maybe I will talk to the dealer, but I noticed that the door 'rattles' when you close it while the windows are rolled down. This is true of all the doors.
I think basically the glass from the rolled down window shakes about when the door is slammed shut. You end up hearing the rattle and the general feeling is cheap. Other than that, the door feels solid if the windows are rolled up. I think maybe rolling it down, the window has less points of support on the free end. So it becomes looser and can rattle around. But when the window is rolled up, it has its free end fixed so it doesn't rattle.
So is it just my unit or does yours do that too? I noticed some cheaper cars I've either rented or test drove do this too. I believe the unit I test drove at the dealer did this too so maybe it is universal for all pre-2016 Tiguans?
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I have had a rattle in my driver's side door since I picked up my car that was driving me crazy so when I took my ES300h into local Lexus dealer (Cool Springs in Franklin, TN) for my 1000 mile checkup, I asked them to fix it. As has happened to numerous others on the forum, they couldn't hear the rattle and did nothing.
When I got the car home, my wife and I went for a ride with her sitting behind me. We figured out it was the window rattling. When we moved the window down just slightly, so it's still sealed, the rattle went away.
When I turned off the car a light came on for open window but it still locked.
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I have a new C, there's less than 1k miles on it, and I'm finding that when the driver's side window is down about 2 inches, it rattles quite a lot. Farther down (half way) it doesn't rattle.
Also something odd: when the window is all the way down, the door itself expands inward.
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Rolling up windows last night and all my windows go up except for drivers side. I can hear the motor so that's not the problem, I believe the window got taken out of its 'tracks' and is loose in the door. I can hear it moving around in there when I am driving and opening and closing the door. I am trying to be very fragile with it, how to take the door off so I can see the interior of that door.
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I have an 07 GS 450H and I rolled the window down (driver side) and the window fell down into the door.
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I tried to vent my windows after I shut off the car yesterday, by using the key on the driver's door. The windows would not roll down. I know to do this remotely, it would require the VAG, but I thought this feature was enabled from the factory.
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I've been recently very annoyed by a sound I can hear when driving between 5 and 40 mph. It sounds like the window or door seals/weatherstripping is repeatedly losing static friction to a shaking door or window. If I push forcefully outwards on the window the sound seems to be reduced.
I have about 22k miles on the card so far. I'm assuming I should go to a dealership, but I'm afraid some of them will dismiss the problem with some excuse or another.
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I own a 2000 Chrysler 300m, and have been driving it daily for the past three years. The car had 102,000 miles when I bought it, it now has 158,000. About three months ago, at 154,000 miles, the driver side wheel bearing began to hum. Shortly after, before i was able to fix the bearing, the ball joint on the passenger side snapped. I had it towed in to a shop, and the mechanic told me I needed a ball joint as well as a new CV axle.. The mechanic didn't fix the wheel bearing on the other side, and I took the car back as it was because I needed transportation. when he returned the car, he told me that I needed the same thing done on the other side, but that I had a month or so to do it.
A week later, the wheel bearing broke on the driver side, and I returned the car to him. This time he changed bearing assembly, another CV axle, two outer tie rods, new caliper bolts, and new tie rod sleeves. When I got the car back, he told me I needed an alignment, and to go someplace else and get one. I drove the car and it rode the same as it did before, so I didn't get the alignment. Three months later, I have put only 4000 miles on the car and the passenger side ball joint and CV axle just broke again.
The mechanic says that this is because I didn't get the alignment, but I'm not so sure. I've driven cars that needed to be aligned before, and never had any ball joints break as a result. I think that he may have not put it on right, or missed something else that caused the problem. Is it likely that needing an alignment would cause a ball joint to break this quickly, on only one side, or is this guy trying to hose me?
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Noticed any excessive wind noise coming from driver's side window/door on their 3IS? Maybe because its pretty quiet but I'm noticing a slightly louder than normal "whizzing" noise (wind noise) coming from driver's side window/door..
Something the dealer can adjust / tighten up to eliminate this annoying noise?
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