Chrysler - 300 :: 2008 - Power Went Out Intermittently?
Sep 6, 2015
I drive a 2008 Chrysler 300 base model with 150k miles. The other day I went over a dip in the road at 35 miles per hour and the steering power went out for about 3 seconds. The car pulled about 10 feet to the right as I struggled to counter steer to the left. The power suddenly came back and the jolt through off the alignment of my steering wheel. It was almost a serious accident.
Dealership said that there is no issues that they can see. I just need an alignment now. Pump is fine, holds pressure no leaks anywhere. Belt and tensioner look like new. keep driving till it happens again. They thought maybe the belt got wet and slipped but it hadn't rained in days and this was 40 minutes into the ride. I don't want to wait till I crash to do something. I don't believe the electric power went off in the whole car, I was to busy trying to avoid a crash to have noticed. However the car didn't stall or stop at all, it just kept driving when the steering came back.
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I have a 2008 Sebring convertible that has starting issues. Sometimes when I turn the key to start, it does nothing (no noises, maybe a small click very rarely). If I take the key out and put it back in, it may start. Usually, I have to turn the power on, move the gears, and try again. Sometimes, it will start immediately, or I may have to do this procedure several times. It has been taken into the Chrysler dealer twice. They said it was not the switch or alternator and replaced the battery that wouldn't keep a charge. It was a 5-yr battery with 3 years of use. I was told to drive more! I shouldn't have to charge the battery every day. Several diagnostic tests were performed with no results. It still did this twice after the battery was replaced. Could it be cables?
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Let me tell you a story ‘bout my daughter’s 2008 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L…
We have owned the car since 2009. Recently the car has begun to start intermittently. Generally it starts normally. Other times it won’t. It can be driven for a month with no problem and then BAM! It won’t start. No dead battery sound, no clicking, no starter trying to engage NUTT’N!
AND… the brake pedal is firm! The brake pedal is firm and cannot be pushed down!
The car has been to the Dodge dealer several times. They have replaced the starter because a couple of teeth were missing, flashed the computer and replaced the alternator. The car started fine for a few days and then wouldn’t start again.
The Dodge boys kept the car for a week and of course, it started fine while they had it. One of the service managers told me to pull out a certain fuse to reset the computer. They also told me that they usually see these types of problems if the car was jump started wrong (the jumper cables were hooked up backwards I guess).
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have a 1999 town and country that wont start from time to time. some times it starts right up and starts right up for months.some times starts and then go to start it again it just won't start . dosent even make a sound. all the lights and radio etc. working, and its been to numerous times to the repair shop. each time at the repair shop it starts right up and when they put it on the diagnostic computer , the diagnostics says nothing is wrong.
it's a brand new battery, and when we took the battery to the auto parts store they checked it and said the battery is charging and then discharging in a cycle.just got back from the chrysler dealer repair and they put the diagnostic computure on it and it says nothing is wrong.
i live in tucson, az and when the temp is 105F outside and i buy ice and frozen things is when the town and country decides it dosent wanta start
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The dashboard display on my 1998 Chrysler Town and Country fails intermittently. There are no readings for Fuel, Oil Temperature, speed or odometer. This condition comes and goes. My mechanic has tried every thing he knows and now says he has to replace the entire system?
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2002 Chrysler Voyager, 3.3L V6, 133K miles.
I'm experiencing an intermittent total electrical shutdown. Driving at any speed, electrical system cuts out - lights, radio, gauges, motor - everything shuts down for a period of 3-4 seconds, then power is restored. Transmission that has disengaged during shutdown takes a few more seconds to re-engage. This can happen 15-20 times during a 25 mile trip or not at all. Last evening a 25 mile trip to destination w/ no problems. On the return, 6-7 shutdowns in the first few miles, then nary an issue. This morning, in pulling around a block to unload some cargo, 2 cutouts. I do not have to touch the key for the restart.
I have cleaned battery terminals & connectors w/ baking soda, scrubbed them w/ battery brush, coated w/ DiElectric grease, run an auxiliary ground, had the battery load tested (good for 700 cold cranking amps), and taken to the local mechanic who spent a few hours and 3 cruises w/ an analyzer hooked up. Not to worry, no problems manifest when van was w/ mechanic. BTW, no fault codes thrown, no "Check Engine" light appearing. Ignition switch tested as OK.
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2006 Chrysler 300 Limited. Very strange issue here. If the ignition key is turned on, and the headlight switch in ANY position (auto, off, parking, or on) the headlights and fog lights turn off and on on their own! No rhyme or reason to it. At first if the headlight switch was in the "auto" position, it wouldn't give me a problem. Now I can't shut the headlights off, the foglights off, or "flick" the high beams on by pulling the "multi-function" switch back. Long story short, i think the actual headlight switch might be faulty, but the multi-function switch not making the headlights do anything is what is making me second guess this issue. Where else I should look? Fuses are all fine.
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My check engine light goes on ONLY when my husband starts the car.He is starting it normally.Then all the controls read incorrect such as temperature and RPMs.When I get back in my car later , I start it and it goes off! Why this is happening or what he might be doing?
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I have a 98 Chrysler Concord Lxi with a 3.2 L V6. In the summer time when its hot The car will get warmer than normal (I have figured out that one of the cooling fans is out and needs to be replaced). That said. after running for a few hours on the highway and if sat idle with the temperature raised, if I shut the car off 9 times out of 10 when I go to restart the car it will crank and crank but will not fire. My guess is the computer shuts the fuel off.
I have to wait about 30 minutes and it will start. Sometimes it will start very rough with a carbon smell and the need to idle it high until it smooths out. Other times It will start with out having to wait but the idle is again rough and can smell carbon. I have looked online and found some have a solution of releasing the pressure of the fuel line as it could be a symptom of vapor lock. I have tried this and no pressure is released ( I have disconnected A/C Lines on previous cars only to find a large BOOM a mess in the garage and in my shorts!) so I know I am releasing the right Scraeder valve.
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CHRYSLER CONCORD LXI 1999 - problem with INTERIOR LIGHTING . , EVERY SO OFTEN while driving.
My wife and I have had the car for about three years and it is immaculate - within the last year we replaced the computer.
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Bought new oct.2012. Fiirst time used heat blows cold from one side hot from other. not consistent, will vary from left cold, then hot from right or the opposite. been fighting with chrysler from then till now. engineers know problem exists and are working on a fix. haven't found it yet. contacted chrysler numerous times, just get passed from one to another.
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on my 04 supercab f150. one moment door locks work, the next nothing. started this weekend. its a bone stock truck with 128000 miles. sometimes work sometimes don't. have wiggled harness and connections outside the door. worked fine, pulled it out of the shop and parked it now not working again.
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I just did my plugs in my 04 F150 5.4 The truck had a really bad miss, and I figured it was time for plugs. I broke all eight plugs which I expected as the plugs were in there since new and had 120 000 miles on them. Replaced with champion double platinum and I am not certain that was the best idea.
The truck is much better with the new plugs but still has a miss and a rough vibration. The truck seems to shake side to side at idle but smooths out during normal driving conditions. I have noticed that it seems to lack power intermittently if that makes any sense. Also, the check engine light was on for a while but I tracked that down to a broken wire in the evap system.
So I am thinking first step is to verify that the coils and boots were installed correctly. I have to see if we have the scope module for the Genisys at work. I am going to check for vacuum leaks as well. I just changed the fuel filter and no change. Is there anything else I should look at? Would cam phasers cause a rough idle and intermittent loss of power?
I don't drive this truck every day so I can take it apart to diagnose it further...
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My 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
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After driving I place car in Park, try to turn key to off. Will only go to Accessory position. Suggestions have been shifter, wheel lock. Dealer said they need to replace the shifter. Re-shifting into park does not work, turning wheel does not work. Have discovered that if I turn the key to the accessory position, wait & listen, I hear a distinct CLICK (like the sound an old solenoid would have made) and the key will go to off and can be removed. Early in the morning this can take 20 seconds. Later in the day some unknown number of minutes. Luckily I can leave the car with the key in it without fear of someone taking the car. I have even recorded the sound and have attached the sound file here It happens about 13 seconds in.
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I have a 2008 Chrysler Sebring Touring (Convertible). Recently, out of the blue, the heater quit supplying hot air. I took it to my local mechanic who
1) replaced the thermostat and
2) replaced the blend air door motor.
After 4 days I was told it was fixed. Now it blows only "warmish" air on the driver's side and cold air on the passenger's side.
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I don't know that much about cars, the fan that turns on to cool the engine when you're driving won't turn off when I turn off the van. Before I knew what was going on it was killing my battery over and over again and I kept getting jumps, finally took it to Sears and bought a new battery. Later that day I came back to the van, about a half hour after turning it off, and realized the fan was still on. There was nothing I could do to get it to stop, Finally it killed the battery once again and I called AAA. The triple A guy who came showed me how to pull out the fuse under the hood with needle nose pliers to stop it.
I had to drive it to Maine to visit my father and while there took it to his mechanics but of course when I pulled into their parking lot the engine fan turned off when I turned off the car. There were a few other repairs to be done, the air conditioner wasn't working and the interior lights weren't turning on, but during the week they had it the engine fan never did that weird thing for them. But when I picked it up two days ago, after driving it around town for a day and having it work fine, I took it on an hour and a half drive and once again the engine fan wouldn't turn off. Should I resign myself to driving around with a pair of needle nose pliers in my glove compartment for the rest of the life of this van??
BTW, I've only owned this van for a few months. The problem started after I had taken it to a garage in New Jersey where I now live to have the air conditioner worked on. The said it had no freon but couldn't find a leak so filled it with freon with a dye in it. They also said I needed to have my front wheels aligned and did that for me.
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I have a 2008 Chrysler Town & Country with all the bells and whistles. About a year ago started with a strange problem. When you started the car these things happened: The windshield wipers would start flapping, the windows would be locked, fan on the heating system would go to full blast while the temperature would reset to 72 degrees and the automatic doors would not work. The problem is intermittent and seems to be worse on hot days. My mechanic was lost on this and sent us to the dealer. The dealer said it was the radio/DVD system? That didn’t sound right so I had them just disconnect the system to see first if it corrected the problem. Hooked the system back up. Now the DVD doesn’t work and still have the problem. We have tried turning off the car and unhooking the battery. this stops it sometimes. Then we found that just resetting the the temperature would straighten it out (sometimes and temporarily). The car has been doing great for the past 6 months (fall and winter) and now started doing it again.
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I bought my 2008 Chrysler 300 used at a car auction and its been running fine for the past couple years. About two months ago the transmission needed repair so I took it out and took it to a mechanic to get fixed. All i had to do was install the transmission back into my car. My car was still running when i took it to the mechanic. Once I picked it up from the mechanic i have been installing and uninstalling the transmission several times and yet my car still won't turn on. I don't want to have to buy a new one...
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My Town & County started running hot.. sometimes... I first replace the thermostat, but still ran hot. But I never saw any indication in the engine compartment of overheating or bubbly fluid or such, so I took it to the dealer, where at first it ran fine. Then started running hot, they were confused because the lower hose was a lower Temp then the upper hose so they wanted to take the water pump off and look at it. I asked if they verified that the engine was actually running hot, I also questioned them about the lower hose temp, because I think if its working right it should be a lower temp. They said would check both items.
Then they called back and said they thought I had a blocked radiator (no mention of the water pump) and wanted $900 to put a new one in. Got van back, drove it home and check the radiator and there were some cold spots and hot spots in the radiator. Called local radiator place and they suggested I flush it. I did, it ran perfect for 1.5 days and now overheats again. Now most of the Radiator is cold to the touch just around the edges is hot. the upper hose is hotter than the lower hose and is hot all the way to the radiator (maybe not as hot at the radiator as by the thermostat.Question: Bad Radiator or Bad Water Pump?
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I have a very specific problem with my 2008 Chrysler Town and Country. It has happened 4 times in the past few months and the dealership is unable to replicate the problem, so they tell me there is no problem. When I am decelerating/coasting the traction control light on the dash will come on, the power steering will go out, the RPMs will drop to zero and the gas pedal is loose and has no effect, and then the power brakes will go out. All the electrical still works, I muscle over to the side of the road, turn it off, wait a few seconds, turn it back on, it starts up just fine and I drive off with no problem.
The first three times it happened I was on the same stretch of road (which I dubbed the Bermuda Triangle Road), I was going 25 mph, the road is fairly level, the pavement was dry and it was above freezing. The fourth time was on a different road, but still level, there was snow and it was below freezing but the road was clear, and I was going about 33 mph. Each time the car had been sitting in my garage for at least a couple of hours, and it happened only a few minutes after leaving the house.
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