Chrysler :: 2000 - Occasional Huge Gas Smell In Home Garage
Jan 20, 2015
I have a 2000 Chrysler LHS, and from time to time when I fill it with gas and drive home, the smell is SO strong I'm almost afraid to keep the garage door down. I see no drips on the concrete. I don't always go to the same nearby station and I never add more gas after the nozzle clicks off. I'd say eight times out of ten this smell doesn't happen, and if it does, a little driving gets rid of it. But why is it happening?
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With my windows up I occasionally get a slight whiff or smell of gasoline with the engine running. Doesn't matter if A/C is on or off. I crawled all under the truck and can't see any fuel dripping. (2005 5.4)
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So I'm also noticing my car occasionally makes a huge thud sound from time to time when I put it into two certain gears. From park to reverse it's not loud but there's a little noise, but from any gear into Drive it's sometimes a loud boom and the car shakes. My pops mentioned to me this is dangerous because of how the engine is moving underneath the hood when it happens. I just recently changed the dog bone mount, could it be the others? I'm ware that it's wise to change all 3 if you change one but I was on a budget & it was a lot worse before. Someone mentioned it might be my torque converter but I did some research & the two symptoms don't add up. And I'll add once more that this happens occasionally & not every time I switch to a different gear. What it may be?
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Ok, here's the situation... (Elantra GLS - Automatic)
I was at a 4-way stop sign. No other cars were around so I accelerated. Then suddenly, I hear and see a car coming at me REALLY fast, and well, I panicked. I floored the throttle (almost literally), and I heard something popping or maybe it was a farting sound... It happened so fast that I don't remember clearly...
Then behind me was a HUGE cloud of smoke behind me. I mean really, it covered up the whole street. It was 10 PM, so I couldn't really tell what color it was, but it seemed to be white... So I turned off my car. Checked the engine, no smoke from the engine. I started it up again, and instead to revving to about 2000 rpm at start up like it always does, it only went to about 1000, and more smoke was flushed out the exhaust.
I was close to home, and with no 24-hour mechanic shop around me, I drove home. As I drove home, I had quite a bit of smoke trail behind me which scared me through out the whole 2 minutes of driving. I got home, and I checked the exhaust again, but there was no more smoke. However, a burning smell lingered around the exhaust.
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Once in a while after I get home, then leave again a hour or two later, I have a real strong gas smell coming from somewhere. I don't see anything on the ground coming from my car, but it is pretty strong.
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I have a sulfur smell in my 05 since new, it now has 23k and is a little better now. The dealer said to switch gas stations. I haven't noticed this. I notice it going up hill with the top down sometimes but mainly after parking it in the garage. The dealer said it would not hurt the car. I worried that it is running too rich and damaging the coverter, plus it is annoying. I love the car but it sure isn't perfect.
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I have a 1976 Volkswagon Bus with automatic transmission and the 2000 cc engine. It was running fine one day, we pull it into the garage for the night, and the next morning it won't start. There is a heavy smell of gasoline in the garage now.
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I own a 2007 Ford Escape. Upon parking in the garage and leaving over night, I have noticed a strange smell. It is unlike any smell I know. I took the SUV to a Ford dealership and he said nothing's wrong. I was wondering if it could be brakes causing it or maybe rotors. Or bearings might have bearing on the situation. I have not noticed any fluids leaked upon the garage floor. Any clue as to what to do?
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For over 2 years, but much more frequently and lenghtier recently, my 2000 Chevy Prizm, with a used 07 Corolla engine with 75,000 mile on it now, has seemed like it wants to die but then will eventually kick in and you would never know anything had happened. Started out as a maybe 50 yard slowing down but is now up to about a quarter mile with some occasional noise like misfiring on the last two times it acted up. Have had it in to a couple of mechanics and no one can seem to determine what it is. Had a mass air flow sensor put in about a year ago and was told if that doesn't fix it I would need a catalytic converter (shows up in engine codes) but second mechanic told me my problems would not be the result of a bad catalytic converter. If that was it, the car would die not keep on going.
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According to the navigation manual (attached), the navigation screen should go to the home screen within 5 seconds. But my IS never goes to the home screen without pressing the home button, but it always shows the full screen map. I tried many different things including "Auto Screen Change" setting but nothing seems to work.
2015 IS250 AWD
Nebula Gray/Stratus Gray
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Short Version. 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan, I two weeks ago I replaced the front brakes (rotors, calipers, and pads both sides) I drove the van 100 miles Saturday night with no problems. Sunday afternoon, whilst driving home from a restaurant with 5 people in the van (driving super gingerly because they were my inlaws) the right front brake stuck on and smoked on the drive home. The calipers are new, and I have not had any other problems since I replaced the brakes that were trashed when I got it.
Long version, So heres the deal, I am the proud owner of a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan, its got about 140,000 miles on it, its a little rusty, but I got it for free. A family member was getting rid of it, as it was 11 years old, and they wanted something newer, and it needed brakes and a few other things. They were going to donate it, but it sat all winter waiting for the donation company to pick it up. Being a consummate grease monkey elite shade tree mechanic tinkerer type, and being in the new family, new house cash flow situation, I swooped in and towed it home in hopes that I could make a decent enough ride that I could fit two adults, a car seat and a dog into.
Now when I got the van I knew it had some problems. That's the reason it was free. But it is/was all fixable stuff. Typical of age and mileage It had a whiny power steering pump, it needed an oil change, the power steering lines leaked, the transmission cooler lines needed to be replaced. It needed a serpentine belt. It has a motor mount that needs replacing. The front suspension clunked because of worn out swaybar bushings and end link Its a bunch of work and few weekends and a few hundred in parts, but when the van was free, and you do the work yourself it costs a lot less.
The front brakes were completely trashed when I got the van, that is one of the reasons that the previous owner had parked it. And it was obvious that the right front caliper had seized, I could not push the piston back in. And that was the one that seized on, and had the most damages so I replaced it, along with the left front, as it was also the original one, and well they were both the same age, and have the stuff to bleed the brakes out. So what causes disk brake calipers to randomly stick on when they are used gently? Because when I drive it angry, such as now, they seem fine.
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I have a 2006 chrysler town &country. It started trying to overheat but always cooled itself down to now overheating. My fans are working. I hear a like Gurgling noise. I can smell the coolant when i turn on my heat and it goes hot then cold. Not sure what's going on but it's pretty frustrating this a lease vehicle. I've put antifreeze in it several times. Not sure what to do.
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I have an extreme burning smell coming from my heater whenever it is on, curious I put the fan on cold and it still has the burning smell. I pulled over and got out of the car he popped the hood and I don't smell anything underneath the hood. I've been leaving it off because I don't want anything blowup on me... It is a 98 chrysler sebring convertible, and the low and medium don't work on it, it only turns on on high....
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I have a 4 cylinder 2000 Ford Contour 133k miles
I've only driven the car for about 2 months, Ive never had an issue with it until yesterday other than an occasional hard shift when driving the car hard. Yesterday when I dropped the car in drive it wouldn't pull at all, I sat in my apartments parking lot continually revving the car high in drive but it wont do anything, its like the car is in neutral. Reverse works and I can drive by manually shifting from first to second and then putting the car in drive, but if I put it into drive before reaching 3rd gear it jumps back to neutral.
I checked the linkage, and the lever it connects to on the transmission; when put into drive the position of the lever coincides with the neutral position. I called a few local transmission shops and they diagnosed is as a broken sprag, but from reading online it seems like it could be a clogged transmission filter or a faulty transmission range sensor. Prior to this issue I would sometimes here a whistle coming from under the hood when driving, I didn't know until today that a whistle is indicative of a vacuum leak, but wouldn't it throw on my check engine light? I have checked my transmission fluid, its at the correct level and is a nice cherry red, it doesn't have any bad or burnt odor.
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165k miles 4x4 6 speed, bone stock unmolested
Slowly progressing problem over 6 months. Occasional miss at highway speeds uphill has progressed to bucking and jerking during even gentle acceleration attempts.
I hadn't got my cam sensor recall done but no change after that procedure completed yesterday. Oil recently changed as well.
I have a torque pro but it never finds any fault codes even though 'service engine' light comes on sporadically. I'm not sure I'm operating it properly but it at least reads rpm when its running.
I'm contemplating the hutch mod but I'd like to have an official diagnosis beforehand if its possible in my case.
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2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
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2000 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5 V6, 84,300 miles. Twice, after sitting out a day or 2 in wet weather, it was very, very difficult to start. Each time, it didn't fire at all, but then did finally start after 4 or 5 tries and ran fine.
Tried spraying water everywhere under the hood, while it was running, but got no miss or other symptom. After then sitting a day or 2 in the garage, it started and ran fine the first 2-3 miles, then started stumbling/missing and stalled at a light. It restarted and continued to stumble/miss before running fine after another 1-3 miles. Changed the distributor cap and repeated the same test, getting same result. Also checked fuel pressure--it's on the money, building specified pressure and holding as expected. No check engine light or other symptom and no relevant codes.
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i have a 2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager. So as a preface, I've had some intermittent electrical issues, the wipers all of a sudden started acting odd ,not turning off, the intermittent setting working oddly, or won't return to the park position. So as i pull off the highway to day my van just stops running. I was fortunately close to my destination, and was able to get towed by a friend the rest of the way.
Now here is the odd part, any time there was a load on the tow strap (attached to the motor mount) it tried to start itself, yes i was in neutral, the speedo would act up (jumping from no reading to 120mph), and the wipers started to go!?!?! I've gt a charger on it wondering if I have some issues due to funky battery voltage, other than that I'm not sure what way to go with this.
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My car died while driving on the highway. The mechanic said it was the distributor, but also that the fuel pump wasn't working. When he replaced the distributor, the car works, no fuel pump problem. Does the fuel pump shut off when the engine dies or is this going to be another problem down the road? 2000 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi...
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I am having problems with the acceleration. when I let off the accelerator it hovers around 2000 rpm and then it takes awhile to come down. I checked the throttle cable and it seems free and the springs are on the throttle body.
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I have a 2002 chrysler town and country van. The check eng. light came on about 6mths ago but did not affect the way it ran, but tonight my wife was driving in it after filling the gas and started to sputter slow at slow speeds and really sputters at higher speeds. should i be looking for water in the fuel.
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