My husband replaced the brakes on my 2005 suburban and they are squealing constantly now. He says it's normal and will go away as I drive it, I've only done about 3 miles so far but no better. So keep driving or something isn't right? For what it's worth he grew up in his dad's auto shop and has restored some cars so not a pro but definitely competent and he swears they are installed correctly.
View 16 RepliesI have been having problems with the rear heat & ac. It was blowing intermittently then we would have to tap the panel in the back right side to get it to work, it won't blow at all. Is it the blower motor?
View 1 RepliesWhere the factory amplifier can be found in a 1997 Chevy Suburban LT? MY Suburban still has the original radio with tape deck and with the 1-disc CD player under the A/C controls. I have already replaced all 6 old '97 speakers with new ones, and I would also like to install a better aftermarket amp with a sub woofer.I looked inside the rear quarter panels, under all seats, underneath the middle console.
View 5 RepliesI have 2002 Chevy suburban. Recently, a high pitch whine has developed. When accelerating the whine intensifies. I replaced the alternator ... No change! What could it be? Speedometer cable?
View 8 RepliesThe truck we have is a 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500, 2-Wheel Drive with a 350 vortec engine. We replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets with no leaks for about a week and several hundred miles then it started leaking oil and then antifreeze after that.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 chevy suburban 4wd with 156000 miles.. I had tires replaced last week due to them being chopped. They caused a low humming noise between 65-70mph. That was coming from the front.Below or above this speed the sound was not noticeable. I had new Coper AT-3 tires replace all around and balanced 5 days ago. The noise has become worse and starts at 61 mph and gets louder up to 70 an with a slight vibration . I have not gone above that speed to se if the noise goes away as I feel a bit uncomfortable going any faster with this issue . The tires were balanced so was wondering if I have bad tires or if the new tires being all terrain are causing more strain on what could be a bearing. The wheel bearings are fine and the rear bearings and pinion bearing were replaced two months ago . I know all terrains will make noise but not to this extent .
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 Chevy Suburban and for some reason I've having this problem the my one brake on the passenger side won't light up when you press the brake but the other side will. And also when I apply the turning signal on the passenger side it blinks really fast and you can see the front signal flashing fast but the back does not flash at all. So for some reason the brake and signal lights don't work at all on the back passenger side. But the running lights do go...
View 14 RepliesSo yesterday my truck decided to start giving me fits right after it finally got extra cold and snowy here! I noticed early on this fall that my water pump was leaking, so I replaced it. I also found that my truck only blew hot air while in motion, and cold air while it was stopped or at idle. At this point I replaced the thermostat and housing. I originally had the stock setup with the combined thermostat and housing. The new one is and updated GM version with the separate thermostat and housing assembly. Everything seemed to be ok until yesterday morning.
This is where my problem is now. Yesterday on my way to work, the message center said my coolant was too hot. The temp gauge showed the truck at about 250 degrees. My speed was only about 45mph and it was 6 degrees outside. I ended up parking the truck and looking at it after work. I found it was still doing the exact same thing. When I investigated further, I found that the upper radiator hose was hot, while the lower one coming out of the thermostat housing was cold.
At this point I figured that I had a bad thermostat, and bought a replacement. I tested the old one on my stove top in a pan of water and found that it did actually open at about 175 degrees, so I'm not so sure it was bad now. With the new thermostat installed, the engine is no longer overheating and the temp stays around 235 while driving. However, I am back to the heater blowing cold air at idle and while stopped, and warm air while driving. In addition, the rear heater now only blows cold air, it never warms up.
I bought a 2003 2500 4x4 suburban a couple of weeks back. The seller had purchased and installed a new module for the quadra steer system before I bought it but hadn't had it programmed yet. Not sure what's involved in programming the module - something best left to a chevy dealer? From what I understand, quadra steer is relatively rare because GM had priced it out of sight, but those who have it love it so I want to get it working (seller told me he can do a U-turn on a two-lane road + a foot or so of shoulder on each side - pretty unreal for something that size).
View 3 RepliesI've replaced the pads and rotors on my 97 f250 HD, only to have constant squealing. I've replaced ranger rotors before with no problem but this has been an adventure. It's squeals constantly up to 35, (I've only went up to 35) and squeals louder under braking. Just looking for some pointers. Probably just need a good cleaning. The truck is parked until its fixed more than likely.
View 6 RepliesI checked the cables, no corrosion and tight as a drum. I connected an OBD II computer to the plug under the dashboard and the computer replied that there were no trouble codes present. Is OBDII the proper code reader? none of these lights were on before I replaced the battery. now I have constant ABS, flashing Service ride control, change engine oil. The battery has not gone dead as of yet but the ampmeter is charging at about 16.5-17 volts. I disconnected the pos terminal while the vehicle was running and it continued to run even with the lights on.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Chevy 1500. I replaced my rear brake pads on Monday. I noticed all week that the rear brakes were running hot, but the salesman at the parts store told me that it was okay. Friday I pulled off the pads and saw that one side had started to burn. Saturday I replaced the calipers and another set of pads. Today, Sunday, I noticed that the rear brakes are still hotter than the front brakes.
View 5 RepliesGot a problem with my reverse lights coming on when i hit the brakes. Also, both left and right brake lights come on when i signal to turn rt (along with white reverse lights). Left turn works fine. All bulbs are clear, no discoloration, and both rear light units were completely replace a few years ago.
View 4 RepliesSo my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
I've begun restoring my grandpas 1970 Chevy c/10 but I can't seem to get the brake drums to budge. I tried several cans of lubricant and even beat on one with a sledge hammer till the outside broke off. But the front face of the drum still won't come off. How to remove them?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 Chevy HHR. A couple of weeks ago I had to change the caliper on the driver's side of the car. I had some squeaking after, but bled the brakes and the squeaking went away. The other day I took the caliper off and painted it. I have custom wheels and you can see the caliper plainly, it was rusted so I painted it. Now I am getting the squeaking again, but it stops when I apply the brakes. I bled them again, but still the squeaking. This is driving me crazy. Could it be the "chirper" that is dragging on the rotor? Also I want to add, it squeaks until I get up to about 45 mph. Then it stops. And as I said, it stops when I apply the brakes.
View 6 RepliesWell I've had it with the low mph squealing of my brakes. I'm currently running the brembo 2bk 4 piston set up. I'm assuming it has race pads since it only squeals at low speeds. The pads are still good btw.
I do not track the car so I was thinking something in the middle pad wise. I was looking at the hawk hps street pads(they seem great with no noise) or the stoptech brake pads(pretty much the same as the hawks). They both will fit my brake setup.
I have a dry metal on metal squawk noise when I reverse, I have taken it to a VW dealer, and they say "there is nothing wrong", or that they "cannot find anything". The noise is not constant, just when I apply the brakes in reverse.
View 2 RepliesIs there anything that can be done to stop my brakes from squealing all the time?
View 24 RepliesMy brakes will not stop squealing and it is driving me nuts. I have the stock pads / rotors with 12k miles and three track days. To try and get ride of the noise I have:
- pulled wheels and cleaned all dust from wheels and calipers
- I have the TyrolSport caliper stiffening kit and pulled and greased front bolts
- re-bed in the pads and rotors
- when I had the wheels off and working on caliper bolts the pads looked like there was plenty of material left
I know people have complained about stock setup making noise in cold weather, but that cannot be the case here. It lonely happens at low speeds. What am I missing to get rid of the noise?
I am having some issues with the brakes on my Camry squealing when I don't have my foot on the brakes. Its an intermittent issue and it doesn't start making the noise until Ive been driving for 15 minutes usually and mostly does it at speeds above 45 mph. If I gently put my foot on the brake the noise stops and as soon as I take my foot off the brake it starts again.
Also, if I drive for more than 30 minutes without using the brakes the noise gradually gets quieter and then goes away. Last winter I had the passenger side rear inner brake pad get worn down to the metal. I think the caliper slides had stuck, because they were hard to push in and didn't spring back. I put some grease on them and didn't have any noise for about 9 months and just recently the noise came back.
Now, I didn't use actual caliper grease, I just used lithium grease and Ive read recently that you need to use caliper grease because over time lithium grease will dry up. I've checked all of the brake pads and none of them is down to the metal or even worn down to a point where the scratches would touch the brake rotor and cause a noise.
In fact, about a month ago I replaced the front pads and the noise was still there. Now, here's my question: do that sticking caliper pins on the rear caliper would cause this noise and that I simply need to grease the pins?